Tom Stevenson: holiday prize – bucket and spade that will double as a chiller for his Champagne

At the lunch for the regional chairs that concludes the Decanter World Wine Awards there are always a few prizes for some of the judges. For the third year the lunch – very good indeed – was held at Enoteca Turi in Putney, London. Sarah Kemp, Decanter's publishing director, presented the awards.

Following his message to the wine world earlier this year (see below) that he would be chained to his desk due to various impending book projects, Tom Stevenson received a bucket and spade set appropriate for a man who needs a holiday.

Message to the wine world from Tom Stevenson

‘I have to complete a major revise of my Sotheby's Encyclopedia by April of next year, a major revise of my Christie's Encyclopedia and a completely new book for Sterling by the end of this year, then start an amazing five year project for Wiley USA. I managed to complete all my Sotheby's and Christie's revise travelling in 2008 and 2009, and must now chain myself to the desk for the rest of the year, relying on an automated response to decline invitations without reading them and risk getting seduced! But please put me back on your invitation list next year.’

John Livingstone-Learmonth will be appearing as Dracula in Jacques et Le Bean-stalk@Le théâtre du Grenache in Châteauneuf-du-Pape later this year

John Livingtone-Learmonth received the 'easy virtue ' prize – once the most parsimonious of regional chairs when awarding golds, John has been able to award many Rhône golds this year.

Giles MacDonogh and Richard Mayson were joint winners of the Horlicks Award given to those who are the latest to finish their daily judging sessions.

Sarah Kemp, publishing director – Decanter, presenting the Horlicks Award (pair of pyjamas) to Richard mayson and Giles MacDonogh

The 2010 Decanter World Wine Awards attracted just under 11,000 entries.

Christelle's red shoes

Ebullient and larger than life John Radford, leading Spanish wine expert, silenced the celebratory lunch at Enoteca Turi in Putney to mark the end of the 2010 Decanter World Wine Awards. Speaking to a room packed full of famous wine writing names Radford's off the cuff remarks about event organiser Christelle Guibert's red shoes caused a collective gasp of surprise and an sharp intake of breath. 

John Radford 

Christelle Guibert

2008 Clos des Allées, Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine, Domaine Luneau-Papin

Last night several of the judges@the Decanter World Wine Awards met up for an evening in Terroirs, a fashionable wine bar near Charing Cross. To start the evening with distinguished wine writers:Andrew Jefford (now returned from his year in Australia), John Livingston-Learmonth (King Rhône and betting-aficionado extraordinaire), Anthony Rose (wine correspondent for The Independent) and Giles Macdonogh (author of many books on wine and history).

Clos des Allées from old vines grown on miscaschist is frequently one of my favourite Luneau Muscadets and this concentrated yet fresh 2008 was no exception, particularly as the April frost severely reduced the yields. We followed this with an old favourite – the 2005 Vitage Vielh Jurançon sec from Jean-Bernard Larrieu's Clos Lapeyre,

Then a couple of reds: juicy, easy drinking 2009 Vin de Petanque de Libian from the Mas Libian in the Coteaux de l'Ardèche and a fine and characterful 2008 Cuvée Vieilles Vignes, Brouilly from Jean-Claude Lapalu.

Most of us shared a generous selection of charcuterie including salami, duck rillettes and a paté of pork and pistachio nuts. For main course I had a very good boudin noir with a couple of fried eggs, mousserons and baby broad beans.  

Some links to add.

Bernard Fouquet's 1996 Le Marigny, Vouvray Sec made a fine apéritif this evening. Although now 14 years old this is still youhtful and it has developed attractive citric honey notes balanced with ripe acidity in the long finish.

Report on visit to Bernard Fouquet in January 2009.

Chee Wee Lee

As reported in the previous post we had two panels judging the Loire today due to the unprecedented level of entries, We judged a range of whites including wines from Cheverny, Reuilly, Menetou-Salon, Pouilly-Fumé, Sancerre, Muscadet, Touraine, Savennières, Vouvray and the Coteaux du Layon.

Göran Klintberg

Nick Room

Although the three new judges fitted in very well today, the number of wines left to taste means that there will be just one panel tomorrow – reuniting last year's judges:

Chris Kissack

Decidedly beyond the call of duty, Chris Kissack was up at around 4am this morning to catch an early flight from Edinburgh to London Stansted.

Sarah Ahmed considers a Sancerre

Nigel Wilkinson: serious consideration

Claude and Joëlle Papin: winners of the Regional Award for the best Loire sweet wine

Today sees the first day of judging for Loire wines. The good news is that the number of wines is apparently well up on previous years, which means for the first time we will need two panels of judges today, with one on Thursday.

As last year we have Chris Kissack (The Wine Doctor down from Edinburgh), Sarah Ahmed (The Wine Detective) and Nigel Wilkinson (RSJ Restaurant) for the two days. They will be joined today by Nick Room (wine buyer for Waitrose), Göran Klintberg (a Swedish wine buyer) and Chee Wee Lee (Equitable Nose on The Local Nose site based in Singapore).

2009 logo

A date for your diaries:

A date for your diaries: 

  

Le Petit Pressigny

 The details of the Petit Pressigny wine fair (which is only on Sunday afternoon) are as follows:-

Salon des Vignerons

Dimanche le 4 Juillet

16.00 Place de l'Eglise
Le Petit  Pressigny

19.00 Diner champetre - sur  reservation - Mairie 02.47.94.93.59

This event is primarily organised by Xavier Fortin using his contacts, so the wines are usually ones that are also bought by him for the restaurant (La Promenade)  For your information, It's an annual event and is always the first Sunday in July.

A brief report in today's La Nouvelle République:

Les éclats de rire se sont enchaînés samedi soir à la salle des fêtes d'Epeigné-les-Bois lors de présentation des nouveaux sketchs des Sans Nom. Une franche rigolade tant sur les réflexions des fermiers joués par Gérard Kalvelage et Françoise Delétoille, que sur les maladresses du jeune amoureux joué par Quentin Gentilhomme. Les sketchs présentaient une foison de situations cocasses et de personnages typés qui n'ont pas laissé le public indifférent. Un spectacle à voir ou à revoir samedi 5 juin à Luzillé grâce au soutien de la municipalité et de la fanfare municipale.

Les Caves de la Bonnes Dames 22 au 24 mai 2010 Dans le cadre unique et historique des caves troglodytiques de la Bonne Dame, 19 vignerons de Vouvray vous font découvrir les goûts et les saveurs de leurs vins. Vous pouvez ainsi apprécier toutes les facettes d’un terroir millénaire en un seul lieu... Tous les recoins de la Cave vous offrent différentes spécialités gastronomiques, du foie gras aux charcuteries en passant par les fromages de chèvres. Rencontrez à cette occasion une ambiance unique, une convivialité chaleureuse, et une décontraction apparente qui sont le reflet d’une génération montante tournée vers l’avenir. Vouvray ? C’est un vin qui a du style et sait toujours vous surprendre, selon vos goûts et l’humeur du moment. Sec, demi sec, moelleux ou « fines bulles », c’est vous qui choisissez ! Il est sophistiqué mais facile à découvrir, élégant sans se prendre au sérieux. Modalités d'accès : Ouvert de 9h à 19h Entrée gratuite - verre de dégustation 3€ Restauration sur place Appellation(s) d'Origine Contrôlée à découvrir : Vouvray

Lieu : Vouvray France Renseignements : Syndicat des vins AOC Vouvray Tél : 02 47 52 71 07 syndicat.vins.vouvray@wanadoo.fr www.troglovinum.com ***  The Indre@Azay-le-Rideau 5 et 6 juin 2010 Venez découvrir l'appellation confidentielle de Touraine Azay-le-Rideau, située aux portes de Tours. Ses terroirs originaux produisent des vins blancs et rosés magnifiques !  8 domaines viticoles vous ouvrent leurs portes durant 2 jours... tout un programme : accueil par les vignerons visite du domaine et des caves présentation des métiers du vin dégustations gratuite des vins du domaine et des produits du terroir et quelques belles histoires à raconter sur leur amour du vin... Célèbre pour son château, parmi les « grands » du Val de Loire, la région d’Azay-le-Rideau est aussi réputée pour la culture des arbres fruitiers. C’est un territoire paisible, au coeur duquel on peut découvrir des sites patrimoniaux ou des savoir-faire traditionnels.  Pour programmer la plus Balzacienne des escapades, la liste des caves ouvertes les 05 et 06 Juin de 10h00 à 19h00 :    A.HENRION, Château de l'Aulée, Azay-le-Rideau, 02 47 45 44 24 P.PIBALEAU, 68 route de Langeais, Azay-le-Rideau 02 47 45 27 58 M.BADILLER - 29 Le Bourg, Cheillé 02.47.45.24.37 T.BESARD - 10 Les Priviers, Lignières 02 47 96 85 37 N.PAGET - 7 route de la Gadouillère, Rivarennes, 02.47.95.54.02 C. VERRONNEAU - La Herpinière, Valleres  02 47 45 36 03 LJ SILVOS – 6 Château de la Roche Cheillé 02 47 45 46 05 P GALLAIS – Le Hay Valleres 02 47 45 39 55 Le + : Informations sur le pays d’Azay le Rideau et ses environs pour organiser votre escapade sur tourism-touraine.com

Cliftonville Hotel, Cromer

Apart from some heavy showers on Sunday we had excellent weather for our stay in Cromer, where we sampled the local speciality – crab.

We stayed at the comfortable and friendly Cliftonville Hotel overlooking the sea. Our best meal was dinner on Saturday night at The Pepperpot in West Runton, which is about three miles west of Cromer. The best selection of wines was also at The Pepperpot; the selection elsewhere not worth a diversion!

Domaine de Nerleux in Saint-Cyr-en-Bourg is run by the Néau family and is a long established family estate making a very consistent range of wines.

2008b Le Bouchet, demi-sec, Domaine de la Croix des Vainqueurs (Laurent Bonneau) 

This 2008 demi-sec was further confirmation of the quality of Laurent Bonneau's Vouvray. This made a very attractive apéritif shared with Susan and Simon from Days on the Claise on a sunny Friday in Epeigné. The light sweetness is counterpointed by the precision and minerality.  

2006 Vieilles Vignes, Saumur-Champigny, Domaine Filliatreau

From Laurent Bonneau, a recently installed vigneron in AC Vouvray, to Domaine Filliatreau long established leaders in Saumur-Champigny. This 2006 VV is still quite youthful with a good concentration of black fruits and quite soft tannins. Underlines that although 2006 is less celebrated than 2005 there are some very good reds from this vintage.

Cromer Pier

Here in Cromer for the latest edition of our annual get-together of a group of friends that were at Manchester University. We always meet up at a seaside resort that has to have a pier. Had a good evening in the Red Lion in the centre of Cromer – friendly staff and good food.

Henry Marionnet has around 5 hectares of ungrafted vines (in most of the world's vineyards the vines are grafted as a protection against phylloxera). This 2007 Chenin is decidedly austere and minerally – if I had any additional bottles it would interesting to see how it will age further. It may be that this Chenin is in its dumb stage and may open up again in a few years time.

This Vin de Pays du Val de Loire comes from Hervé and Nicolas Choblet of the Domaine du Haut Bourg in Bouaye, the leading town in the AC Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu. The 2009 is attractively fresh and fruity, slightly grassy but also with grapefruit and other citric notes. This is a good easy drinking wine with no great length or complexity but makes an attractive apero and I'm sure would be good with goats' cheese dishes.

The Choblets, who may be related to the Choblets (Luc and Jérrôme) of the Domaine des Herbauges in Bouaye, have 40 hectares of vines. The Choblet's Sauvignon Blanc is available in the UK through Dudley Jones Fine Wine (www.dudleyjonesfinewine.co.uk/).

 

Grapes@the roundabout at the western end of Bourgueil + its vineyards

La Nouvelle République has an article on the first anniversary of La Promenade in Bourgueil, which is a café, a bar à vins and also an hotel with five bedrooms. 

'La Promenade a rouvert ses portes en mai dernier : Ludovic et Sophie Ragot ont redonné vie à ce café qui était fermé depuis une quinzaine d'années. Et quelle vie !

« On a acheté en 2008 : on a eu près d'un an de travaux avant de pouvoir ouvrir », se rappelle Ludovic qui est originaire de la région (ses parents ont longtemps habité à Varennes-sur-Loire).'

http://www.lanouvellerepublique.fr/dossiers/journal/index.php?dep=37&num=1621472

Café de la Promenade
1 avenue du général De Gaulle
37140 BOURGUEIL
02 47 95 10 87

Last PLace on Earth, Bramley Street London W11

Eric Narioo and his Les Caves team continue to bravely and fearlessly explore West London's 'badlands'. Last year it was Porchester Hall. For 2010 they moved a little further west down the tubeline to Latimer Road.

Eric Narioo, one of the wine trade's leading lights 

As usual Les Caves' invitation nailed their colours and beliefs to the mast – no room for ambiguity here! Real wines – natural wines and a lack of 'imaginary' bottles... Last week's demonstration of natural wines by Dynamic Vines was in this sector of London – perhaps it has a particular affinity with this style of wine. 

Althugh there were many enticing things to taste from across the world, I unfortunately only had time for those from the Loire and a few others. Incidentally a different type of reality – flight restrictions due to volcanic ash – had hit this "real wine" tasting preventing around 35 out of the 60 growers from making it to London. 

Tasting 'real or natural' wine is always interesting and an intellectual challenge. At what point along the drinkability continium do the faults or 'natural' characters outweigh its virtues and render it so bizarre or off the wall that it is no longer a pleasant drink? With one exception all were well on the right side of the drinkability continium.Little sign of jihadism in this selection of Loire producers!

The notion of a complete non-interventionist approach to wine-making is probably a caricature. Carried to its exteme you would wiat until the grapes fell from the vine. Good winemakers realise that you have to intervene – deciding when to pick, how long to macerate etc. I always think it is rather like cooking. Yes often using simple ingredients simply cooked is the best. But this doesn't mean you don't have to pay close attention to detail. Simply grilled fish is delcious if you get it right but there is a very narrow window when it is just right – a few seconds either way will give you either underdone or overdone fish. Often just less than a minute too much is enough to ruin that wonderful moist texture perfect fish has.

Good cooking tends to demand that you are at the stove not trying to do two things at the same time – off elsewhere catching up on emails or digging the garden leading all too often to burnt offerings. 

Thierry Germain: Domaine des Roches Neuves

I'm convinced that it is close attention to detail – lots of small things that makes a greater whole – is one thing that marks a real good producer. This is as true at this tasting of 'Real Wine' as it is elsewhere. Take Thierry Germain (Domaine des Roches Neuves) in Saumur. Since he arrived in 1991 Thierry has changed his wine styles considerably – always questioning. At one point he was making rich, full reds and whites with quite high alcohol. Now Thierry is looking for purity, minerality and precision. One could perhaps criticise him for moving from one extreme to another but to change the style involves intervention and it is evident that he pays close attention to detail.   

Some quick comments on wines tasted:

Domaine Pellé – Anne Pellé (Menetou-Salon)
Always very consistent. The 2008 whites showing good concentration and ripeness.

Domaine des Roches Neuves – Thierry Germain (Saumur and Saumur-Champigny)

2008 Isolite precise and quite austere. 2008 reds have sweet initial fruit but flirt with greeness in the finish.

Domaine Catherine and Pierre Breton – Pierre Breton (Bourgueil, Chinon and Vouvray)

The Vouvrays continue to be better than the reds.

Domaine de la Chevalerie (Bourgueil)

Good range of medium weight reds.

Domaine Jean Maupertuis (Côtes d'Auvergne)
Having seen this domaine mentioed favourably on a number of occasions wasn't convinced by the two Gamays from 2009.

Frantz Saumon 

Domaine Frantz Saumon (Montlouis plus négoce activity under Un Saumon dans La Loire)

This was the most exciting range of wines I tasted having lovely purity and vibrancy, particularly from the 2008s and the 2009s. Interestting to see Frantz starting a small negociant activity. I liked the Menu Pineau (sourced from Saint-Aignan) and the Romorantin (from Philippe Tessier in Cour-Cheverny).

Un Saumon dans La Loire: 2009 Romorantin

Domaine Sébastien Riffault – Sébastien Riffault (Sancerre)

I'll happily admit that I haven't got to grips with Sébastien's wines. I have only ever tasted them not drunk a glass with food. I find their oxidative nature masks both their grape variety and the terroir. They may well be drinkable but they are not Sancerre.

For Jamie Goode's take on this tasting click here to go to the Wine Anorak.

http://www.wineanorak.com:/wineblog/natural-wine/natural-wines-what-are-they-exactly

 Extension to Excel exhibition centre under-construction in 2009

Press release received today:

'LIWF Joins the Social Media Conversation
The 2010 London International Wine Fair will for the first time ever incorporate a dedicated bloggers’ zone, reflecting the growing trend for social media within the wine trade.

Brintex has teamed up with a number of key influencers in social media, including Ryan and Gabriella Opaz of Spanish and Portuguese wine blog Catavino, plus WineConversation.com, the European Wine Bloggers Conference, and Wineblogger.info to create “The Access Zone”. This 60m2 stand will offer bloggers a space to meet up and talk about wine online, incorporating a dedicated area for recording video interviews, as well as Wi-Fi and powerpoints, so that bloggers can upload their LIWF stories on-site.

Gabriella Opaz

In addition, Catavino will run seminars and tastings designed to highlight how wine producers can utilise social media to engage consumers and build awareness of their brands. These seminars will incorporate an interactive element, as Catavino is inviting fellow bloggers to join them in running on-stand tastings, and making videos on-site.

Already signed up to attend “The Access Zone” along with Ryan Opaz and his wife Gabriella are leading social media authorities Andre from Adegga, Wink Lorch from Wine Travel Guides, and Robert McIntosh from Wine Conversation.

Ryan Opaz of Catavino commented; “we are very excited to be teaming up with the London International Wine Fair. It is great that they recognise the value that the internet has in the future of wine promotion. We hope to have a chance to engage both advocates and skeptics during the fair to keep the story of wine online alive!”

Ryan Opaz

James Murray, event director at Brintex, added; “social media is of ever-increasing importance, so we are delighted to have such influential names in the world of blogging on board for “The Access Zone”. We are sure that this feature will be popular both with bloggers, and exhibitors keen to expand their knowledge of the sector.”

The tasting will be located at the West End of ExCeL, and will be open to bloggers, as well as anyone else interested in learning more about social media.'

I'm not sure how much time people will want to spend blogging at the London fair as the main purpose of going is to taste wine, meet people etc.  

Sunday night's apero: 2007 Cuvée de Fié Gris VV Touraine Domaine Jacky Preys. Made from Sauvignon Rosé (also called Fie Gris and Sauvignon Gris) which is more gentle and less assertive than many a Sauvignon Blanc. Jacky has been in the forefront of the revivial of interest in this grape variety. The vines are planted in flinty soil.

Unfortunately I understand that the new AC Touraine regulations will not permit 100% Sauvignon Rose. Just another example of how daft the new rules are.   

Off to Les Caves de Pyrène tasting later today. Will be interesting as always and interesting to see how many producers will have been able to make it over.

2002 Chinon Blanc, Christophe Baudry

Time for a round up of recent bottles starting with this very attractive 2002 Chinon Blanc from Christophe Baudry, which must have been made prior to the tie up with Domaine de la Roncée and the founding of Baudry-Dutour. Nicely evolved with honey and tufa (the aromas of a dry, clean limestone cellar), this has the typical balance of the 2002 vintage. Enjoyed it as an apéro over several nights and if anything it got better and fuller with time. 

2007 Les Millerands, Côte Roannaise, Domaine Robert Sérol

Two reds from Domaine Robert Sérol that I visited last August. The 2008 Cuvée Troigros (name of the famous 3-star Michelin restaurant in nearby Roanne) is a typical easy drinking Gamay, which can be drunk on its own or with a light lunch. Rather mistakenly I tried with a magret de canard and as I should have realised it was too light for the duck. Les Millerands, even though it was a 2007, would have been better as it has more structure but we had opened that a couple of nights previously with cold chicken – a good match.

2008 Cuvée Troigros, Domaine Robert Sérol

 

2008 Touraine Sauvignon, Antoine Simoneau

Antoine Simoneau is a family estate in Saint-Georges-sur-Cher. This 2008 has a few grams of residual sugar that rounds the wine out making attractive and easy to drink with ripe grassy and goseberry scents.The domaines whites tend to be more successful than the reds. Unfortuntaely there is a reliance on the use of weedkillers, which in some vineyards with a slight slope causes some erosion. It would be good to see a reduction in their use.    

 

2003 Anjou Villages, Domaine de Bablut, Christophe Daviau 

Domaine de Bablut in Brissac-Quincé is biodynamic and this rich and powerful 2003 is very typical of this heatwave vintage. Lot of concentrated black fruits giving the impression of coming from somewhere well to the south of the Loire. Still very much on good form and looks to be good for a number more years.

Message from Cathy Shore (Le Tasting Room):

'Just thought you might like to know about this event.  Le Thoureil (close to Gennes) holds a regatta each year when all the old fishing, trading boats converge on the river.  They set up an area and provide a hot lunch for about 12 Euros, there's a bar and normally a band, as well as a few local craft stalls.  If the weather's nice, it's a lovely day out.' 

Boats@Le Thoureil (photos by Cathy Shore)

More details on Le Tasting Room site.

2005 Equiss, VDT (colour here deceptive, actually grey, brown)

14th April 2010: Dynamic Vines tasting (cont) 

Julien and his father, Claude, have vines in Soings-en-Sologne at the western edge of the Sologne, a wooded region with many ponds and small lakes and famous for hunting. Not long ago I tasted Julien's 2004 Originel (100% Menu Pineau). For the 2007 (£18.20) the blend has changed to 80% Menu Pineau with 20% Romorantin. I was agreeably surprised by the 2004 whereas the 2007 lacks charm and is quite oxidative and medicinal.

I then moved onto two truly bizarre wines, especially with regards to their colour. The photo gives the 2005 Equiss (VDT – 100% Menu Pineau) a rich golden colour when in actuality the colour was an extraordinary greyey brown-like the colour of dishwater. Julien must have considerable talent to achieve such a curious hue! This is a vendange tardive but vinified dry. It does have a touch of honey but I certainly wouldn't want to pay £31.60 even if I did want to play a joke on friends. The 2005 Franc de Pied (VDT – 100% Menu Pineau) is also a vendange tardive and exhibits the same colour as Equiss. Also very oxidative with a note of iodine like an Islay malt. Again £31.60 a bottle.

The three reds were a little better. I tasted two Gamays – 2007 'Element-Terre' (£16.50) made from Gamay Chaudenay (a teinturier) – quite rustic with some greenish tannins in the finish. 100% was a Gamay à jus blanc was also from 2007 and was the best of the reds but very poor value at £17.90. The last red was the 2007 Ancestral, presumably a blend, supple with some fruit but quite marked acidity.  
Steven Spurrier was also at the tasting and I asked him what he thought of the Julien Courtois wines and he admitted he was equally bemused by them.        

 30 vignerons from 37 (Indre et Loire)

Looks to be an excellent opportunity to taste a varied range of wines from some very good producers. 10am-6pm

Yannick Amirault  (Bourgueil and Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil

Sébastien Bobinet (Saumur)

Catherine and Pierre Breton( Bourgueil, Chinon and Vouvray) 

Sébastien Brunet (Vouvray)

Vincent Carême (Vouvray)

Patrick Corbineau (Touraine)

Château de Coulaine (Chinon)

Sébastien David (Saint Nicolas de Bourgueil)

Delaunay Père et Fils (Bourgueil)

Coralie and Damien Delecheneau (Montlouis, Touraine)

Domaine de la Chevalèrie (Bourgueil)

Domaine des Ouches (Bourgueil)

Domaine Georget (Bourgueil)

Cyril and Fabien Goidard

Laurent Herlin (Bourgueil)

Lise and Bertrand Jousset (Montlouis)

Grégory Leclerc  (Touraine)

Alain and Jérôme Lenoir (Chinon)

Frédéric Mabileau (Anjou, Bourgueil, Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil)

Gérard Marula (Chinon) 

Jean-Christophe Pelletier (Chinon)

François Pinon (Vouvray)

François Plouzeau (Touraine)

Marc Plouzeau (Chinon)

Frantz Saumon (Montlouis)

Gérard Vallée  (Saint Nicolas de Bourgueil)

Xavier Weisskopf (Montlouis and Touraine)

Dîner sur réservation avec la présence d'un vigneron a votre table
Réservation au 02.47.97.73.13