Road sign on main road into Sancerre from Bourges covered up and censored (photo: Benoît Roumet)

Yesterday (30 October) saw demonstrations in many French wine regions against the way the French government treats wine and, in particular, against the legal uncertainties surrounding wine on the internet and the media in general.

Demonstrators in places like Angers, Blois, Nantes, Pouilly-sur-Loire, and Sancerre as well as Arbois, Avignon, Bergerac, Bordeaux Cognac, Colmar Epernay, Gaillac and Nîmes covered up the names of wine towns and villages with the word censored.

Road sign on main road into Sancerre covered up and censored (photo: Benoît Roumet)

The most recent proposal to ban free wine tasting has enraged the wine industry. According to decanter.com: ‘The amendment, known as 'article 24', was tabled by health minister Roselyne Bachelot and discussed by the cabinet last week. The proposal, which outlaws all 'free alcoholic drinks with the intention of promotion', would effectively ban wine tastings in the country.’ Apparently Bachelot wants this to be law by the end of January 2009, although she is not opposed to amended the Loi Evin in favour of making it legal to mention wine on the internet.

If passed it could mean paying for all wine tastings both amateur and professional including at Vinexpo, Salon des Vins de Loire and the Bordeaux en primeur tastings. It would make France the laughing stock of the wine world and presumably would have profound repercussions on how the business of wine in France is conducted.

It seems amazing that France, of all places, is rushing down the same disastrous path that the Americans took with Prohibition in 1920.

Snow falling in Sancerre: 30th October 2008
photo: Benoît Roumet

In Sancerre the demonstrations took place while snow apparently for the first time since 1950 that it has fallen here in October.

•••

For anyone wanting to read more about the reasons for the demonstrations here is a press release in French from Benoît Roumet, the director of the BIVC – the promotional body of the Loire's Central Vineyards, adapted from a release by Vin et Société.


'Le 30 octobre 2008, dans les vignobles du Centre-Loire comme un peu partout sur les terres viticoles de France, la filière vin se mobilise pour défendre son droit à exister. Une opération organisée pour ne pas « tomber dans le panneau » des censeurs !
Le vin pourrait se voir enfin reconnaître l’accès légal à Internet ! Tant mieux : pour beaucoup de petits opérateurs, c’est devenu un moyen de communication vital pour faire connaître leurs produits.

Le gouvernement pourrait combler enfin un vide juridique, préjudiciable à tous les professionnels du vin et de l’information. Rappelons qu’en 1991, le législateur n’avait pas pris en compte le média Internet, alors inexistant. La filière réclamait juste une mise à jour de la loi, dans le respect de l’encadrement du Code de santé publique.

Une opération symbolique pour « ne pas tomber dans le panneau »
Si l’aboutissement de ses revendications – légitimes – sur internet serait un soulagement pour elle, d’autres interdits, loin d’être levés, menacent la filière vitivinicole française ! C’est pourquoi, elle a unanimement décidé de mener une vaste opération nationale, en recouvrant symboliquement les panneaux des villages viticoles. Une manière de protester contre la multiplication des interdits et de montrer que la défense du vin est celle d’une culture au cœur de notre patrimoine et de nos terroirs.

La filière refuse d’être diabolisée ! Elle refuse de tantôt servir de faire-valoir culturel, gastronomique, économique, et tantôt de servir de bouc émissaire. Or, elle est actuellement attaquée de tous côtés : sur la fiscalité, sur la restriction des lieux de vente, sur la vente au forfait dans les salons ou dans les foires au vin. Les médias et les créateurs sont dans l’aléa juridique permanent lorsqu’ils parlent de vin. Le dernier exemple en date nous vient d’une équipe de tournage d’une chaîne nationale venue réaliser un reportage à Sancerre et à qui la direction a strictement interdit de faire la moindre référence au vin !!!

Le vin semble ainsi devenir un mot honteux et dangereux puisque toute évocation du sujet peut être requalifiée en publicité. Plusieurs journaux condamnés en ont fait les frais !

Une filière responsable, aujourd’hui très fragilisée
Rappelons que la consommation de vin en France a profondément changé en 50 ans, grâce notamment aux efforts de la filière viticole pour valoriser ses produits au travers des terroirs, des cépages et du goût. Cette consommation a été divisée par 2 en 25 ans ; elle s’est concentrée sur une consommation qualitative et ne concerne pratiquement pas les jeunes. Autrement dit, elle repose sur un modèle de consommation responsable, dont l’équilibre est fragile. Demain, c’est la survie de la viticulture française qui est en jeu. Il faut en avoir conscience.

Quand on sait qu’en Espagne, on considère le vin comme un allié dans la lutte contre les comportements excessifs et que le roi Juan Carlos soutient sa viticulture pour faire de sa nation le futur premier pays producteur, le vignoble français est en droit de se poser des questions concernant les mobiles du gouvernement alors qu’à Sancerre même Nicolas SARKOZY, à l’époque candidat à la présidence de la République, avait clairement expliqué qu’ « …assimiler le vin au tabac ou à la drogue est une erreur… ce n’est pas seulement un activité économique mais une tradition, une identité, un savoir-faire français ».

La filière vitivinicole a fait la preuve de son engagement citoyen, en défendant une consommation plaisir et responsable, conforme aux repères de l’OMS, notamment à travers la création d’un site dédié (www.vinetsociete.fr), en s’associant largement à la Sécurité Routière dans la lutte contre le non-respect du 0,5g au volant et en oeuvrant pour le dialogue au sein du Conseil de modération et de prévention.

Les professionnels des vignobles du Centre-Loire attendent le gouvernement de pied ferme et ne se laisseront pas abuser par des effets d’annonce. Ils attendent des évolutions rapides et concrètes afin de pouvoir se défendre et développer leurs vignobles sereinement dans un environnement international de plus en plus concurrentiel.'

Les vendanges sont désormais terminées depuis une semaine; et nous sommes agréablement surpris par la finesse et la richesse des raisins que nous avons pressurés. En effet après l'été en demi teinte que nous avons subi, nous étions peu optimistes. Mais le travail des vignes (effeuillage et ébourgeonnage serré) ainsi que les mois de Séptembre et Octobre ensoleillés, nous ont apporté une vendange saine avec un potentiel de richesse très intéressant: des degrés évoluant entre 12°5 pour les plus faibles et 17° à 17°5 pour les plus concentrés (très peu de pourriture noble mais une concentration importante par passerillage), également la structure ainsi que la texture des jus laissent présager des vins fruités avec un profil de vieillissement intéressant ( des 2002 en plus complexes pour faire un rapprochement avec un millésime récent). Je pense que cette année la gamme des Vouvray évoluera entre les secs tendres et les moelleux avec des profiles très délicats sur la fraicheur et le fruit (des vins de dentelles sans trop de sucrosité).

Didier Champalou: February 2006

We finished the harvest a week ago and are pleasantly surprised by the finesse and the richness of the grapes that we have pressed. After the poor summer we weren’t very optimistic. However, our work in the vines – deleafing and severe debudding as well as the sunny months of September and October gave us a healthy harvest with a very interesting potential: degrees from 12.5˚ at the lowest to 17˚-17.5˚ for the most concentrated. There was very little noble rot this year but had a significant concentration through passerillage (drying through sun and wind). The structure and the texture of the juice indicate that the wines will be fruity with an interesting potential to age. 2002 is the closest similar vintage with perhaps greater complexity. I think this year we will see the range of Vouvray will be from sec-tendre (off-dry) and sweets that are delicate with an emphasis on freshness and fruit – fine wines not too sugary.

Today the French wine industry is demonstrating against the multiple restrictions that it is now facing and asserting its ‘right to exist’. Of particular concern is the very uncertain position of wine on the internet. The Loi Evin, which was passed in 1991, placed severe restrictions on advertising alcohol and listed the media in which ads could appear. At that time the internet didn’t exist, so it wasn’t listed as a medium in which ads could appear. French court have been interpreting this meaning that ads or mentions on wine on the internet is illegal. This means that there is a big question mark over the legality of producers and other wine sites on the net. This, of course, raises the whole issue of freedom of information.

Producers will be covering up the names of wine-making villages to make their point.

Here is today’s editorial from e-lettre Vitisphere:
30 octobre 2008 : la France du vin dit Non à la censure !
Information, droit à la vente, fiscalité … face à la multiplication des interdits, partout en France, la filière vitivinicole descend dans la rue ce jeudi 30 octobre, "pour défendre, avec fierté et responsabilité, son droit à exister." La mobilisation touche toutes les régions vinicoles de France où les interprofessions et les opérateurs du vin ont relayé l'appel de Vin et Société (Pour lire l'appel Multiplication des interdits : non à la censure ! cliquez ici). Elle s'articule autour d'une opération nationale pour ne pas « tomber dans le panneau » des censeurs, en recouvrant symboliquement les panneaux de villes viticoles.

Au moment ou la loi Evin devrait être revue, pour, on l’espère, reconnaître au vin l’accès légal à Internet, d’autres interdits, loin d’être levés, menacent la filière vitivinicole française : restriction des lieux de vente, sur les dégustations dans les salons ou dans les foires au vin, sur la fiscalité...
"La filière refuse d’être diabolisée!", prévient Marie-Christine Tarby, présidente de Vin et Société. "Demain, c’est la survie de la viticulture française qui est en jeu. Et si au-delà du vin, c’était la liberté d’information qui soit menacée, menacé aussi le droit de promouvoir un art de vivre à la française!"


I have to declare an interest as I translate French producers' websites, especially those in the Loire, into English.

2008: Harvesting Cabernet Franc:
photo Yannick Amirault

From: Yannick Amirault, Bourgueil and Saint Nicolas-de-Bourgeuil:

'Effectivement les vendanges se sont très bien passées. Nous avons eu un temps magnifique et le raisin était super.

Début octobre, j'étais inquiet par les acidités très élevées mais qui ont bien baissé à la récolte.
Si on prend uniquement en considération les courbes de degré et d'acidité, nous sommes sur des courbes proches de 1996 et 2002.'

Désormais les fermentations sont terminées et je laisse encore "infuser" sous marc une semaine avant tirage.

Yannick and his son 'unloading' Cabernet Franc
photo Yannick Amirault

Certainly the vintage went very well. We had magnificent weather and the grapes are superb.

At the beginning of October I was worried by the grapes' high acidity but they had dropped considerably by the time we harvested. If you look just at the graphs of alcohol and acidity, we are close to those of 1996 and 2002.

The alcoholic fermentations have finished and I am leaving the wine to 'infuse' on the skins for a week before drawing the wine off.

(2nd August 2008)

From the vines of Jasnières southwards towards La Chartre-sur-le-Loir

Vineyards (Sous-les-Bois?) near Dauvers

Typical entrances to wine caves set into the limestone (tuffeau)
near hamlet of Dauvers

Sign by a lake near La Chartre-sur-le-Loir

It is forbidden to throw fish into the rubbish bins

Philippe Germain@Château de Fesles January 2008

Philippe Germain, Domaine de la Roulerie, St. Aubin de Luigné, Anjou

2008 a été un millésime trés spécial. Jusqu'à fin aout, la situation était trés préoccupante mais nous avons eu la chance d'avoir de trés bons mois de septembre et d'octobre.La qualité est donc là, mais pas la quantité. Pour la Roulerie, je suis entre 35 % et 40 % en moins de production. Par contre, nous avons des degrés qui oscillent entre 12.8 à 13.2 naturels pour les chenins avec une acidité de 5.5 à 5.8. Pour les Layons, nous venons de faire le premier tri trés intéressant sur une base de 12.5 à 18 degrés naturels et nous continuerons la semaine prochaine. Concernant les rouges, la production est encore plus limitée avec des degrés entre 12.5 et 12.8 ce qui est assez satisfaisant.

2008 is a very special vintage. Right until the end of August the situation was very worrying but we had the luck to have two very good months – September and October. So the quality is there but not the volume. At La Roulerie I’m between 35%-40% down on a normal year’s production. In contrast we have degrees that vary between 12.8˚ and 13.2˚ for the Chenin with an acidity of between 5.5 and 5.8. As far as the Coteaux du Layons are concerned we are making the premier tri (first selective picking) with grapes between 12.5˚ and 18˚ and we will be continuing next week. For the reds production is even more limited with degrees between 12.5˚ and 12.8˚, which I’m quite happy about.

Philippe Germain
Château de la Roulerie
49190 St. Aubin de Luigné – France
Tel: 02.41.68.94.02
Email : p.germain@vgas.com

Jean-Hubert Lebreton

Jean-Hubert-Lebreton, Domaine des Rochelles, St Jean des Mauvrets

La récolte 2008 s'annonce très interessante par l'arrière saison qui a fait concentrer les Sauvignons, Chardonnays Grolleau, Cabernets Francs, Cabernets Sauvignons et Chenins donc nous avons des forts degrés mais des faibles quantités .

Nous avons récolté les Chardonnays et Sauvignons la première semaine d'octobre puis nous avons attendu la troisième semaine d'octobre pour les Cabernets Francs et ensuite nous avons récolté les Cabernets Sauvignons. Les Chenins sont toujours dans les vignes, nous attendons le passage pluvieux de cette semaine pour reconcentrer et botrytiser car actuellement les raisins sont dorés, le botrytis tarde à se développer donc la pluie est très bénéfique. Il faut juste être patient.

Donc le résumer de l'annèe 2008 est 'peu mais bon'.

Jean-Hubert and a row of Chenin Blanc,
Domaine des Rochelles October 2005

The 2008 vintage looks very interesting thanks to the fine autumn weather which concentrated the Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Grolleau, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chenins. We have high alcohol degrees but small quantities.

We picked the Chardonnay and Sauvignon in the first week of October. Then we waited until the third week of October to first pick the Cabernet Franc followed by the Cabernet Sauvignon. The Chenin is still on the vine as we are waiting firstly for the rain that is forecast for this week to clear away and then for the grapes to reconcentrate and for the botrytis to develop. At the moment the Chenin is golden with botrytis slow to develop, so the rain should be very beneficial. We just have to be patient.

In short: 2008 is good but small.

Jean-Yves Lebreton, Anita and Jean-Hubert Lebreton
Domaine des Rochelles, 49320 Saint-Jean-des-Mauvrets
Tel: 02.41.91.92.07
Email: jy.a.lebreton@wanadoo.fr
Site: www.domainedesrochelles.com

Stéphane Cossais: the José Mourinho of Montlouis!

A la mi-septembre, on n'était pas très confiant pour les vendanges! Heureusement, le beau temps s'est installé pour nous accompagner jusqu'à la maturité des raisins et le temps de les rentrer en cave. Résultat, on tient un très beau millésime qui devrait nous donner de très beaux vins.

Pour ma part, les vendanges ont commencé le 3 octobre pour se terminer le 13 octobre. L'état sanitaire était génial et l'équilibre alcool acidité est intéressant. Vivement la fin des fermentations pour voir se dessiner la trame du vin. Les jus de raisins étaient superbes, j'espère que les vins nous étonneront aussi!

Le millésime 2008 est dans le même esprit que 2002, belle acidité et belle maturité.

In mid-September we were not very confident about the vintage. Fortunately the good weather arrived and stayed with us long enough for the grapes to mature and to bring them into the cellar. The result is a very good year that will give us some very fine wines.

As far as I concerned the harvest started on the 3rd October and finished on 13th. The grapes are very healthy and the balance between the alcohol and the acidity is interesting. We will have to wait for the end of the fermentation to see the style of the wines. The juice was superb and I hope that the wines will astonish us too. The 2008 vintage is in the same style as the 2002, good acidity and good ripeness.

(To follow report on visit to Stéphane in August.)

Olives: 27th October 2008 – Chianti

I know there is no direct connection with the Loire but the new olive oil is always very special – fresh, an amazing green colour and just delicious. It's a pity we used to make so much of Beaujolais Nouveau and have always ignored the olive harvest. Today we tasted lovely new oil – just a week old – at Poggiopiano (www.fattoriapoggiopiano.it). Their Chiantis are very good too.

I’m staying in the Relais Vignale (www.vignale.it) in Radda in Chianti – the heart of the Chianti region. It is interesting to compare the broadband (ADSL) pricing policy of Vignale with that of the Hotel Panoramic in Sancerre. Although 30 minutes is €2.50 and an hour is €4, you can get a week for €12 – a tarif the Hotel Panoramic in Sancerre ought to consider as they charge €5 for an hour and €8 for two. The Panoramic has no daily rate. (See post of 9th September 2008: Hotel Panoramic: ADSL hors de prix.)

I can see little justification for hotels charging more than a nominal amount for WiFi access. If the hotel needs an internet connection for their business they incur no additional expense if their guests hook up to the net. There was no justification for high telephone charges, there is even less excuse for punitive internet access charges.

Tried without success to get Catherine Roussel (Clos Roche Blanche, AC Touraine) on the phone yesterday to get a progess report. Their US importer Louis Dressner (http://louisdressner.com) has the details on their site of the end of their harvest – they finished on Monday 13th October. Apparently Didier had insisted that they wait until the Cabernet was fully ripe – sound man!

Catherine studying grapes

I'm off to Chianti on a press trip for a few days and will catch up on the news of the harvest when I get back late Thursday. Plan to post of few pics while I'm away.

Still to come reports on the final day of Loire visits with Sarah Ahmed, the wine detective, which we spent in Montlouis. Hope to get these finished soon.

(8th October 2008)

Vines and the church@Montigny

The first time I met Henry and Cécile Natter was in the early 1990s. I forget the year – possibly 1994 – but it was a cold mid-January with visits in Sancerre with Tim Atkin MW and then I went on alone for a day and half in Pouilly. Henry, whose domaine is at Montigny at the far western end of the Sancerre appellation, was our first visit of the day. It was a cold, misty drive out from our hotel in Sancerre with hoar frost on the vines. The Natters had laid on a magnificent breakfast for us. Unfortunately we hadn’t been warned so we didn’t do the spread the justice it deserved we had already had a very undistinguished breakfast at our hotel. I remember being impressed with the purity and minerality of the wines, so it is strange that I hadn’t been back until this visit. Perhaps it is because the Natters are rather out on a limb in Montigny.

Vines and fields@Montigny

Invited on Monday to come back for lunch on Wednesday we imagined that it would be a simple meal with the harvest team but not a bit of it as, despite the harvest, we had a wonderful full five-course meal with the family – daughter: Matilde, sons: Auguste and Vincent.

The Natter family and their team of workers

Henry and Cécile Natter created the domaine in 1974. They now have 30 hectares including seven owned jointly by Auguste and Matilde. 90% of their production is exported with Europe as their main market. The Natter family are the only vignerons in the little village of Montigny that nestles at the foot of the ridge that carries the main road from Sancerre to Bourges. The Sancerre appellation touches that of Menetou-Salon here, with Menetou to the north of the main road and Sancerre to the south.

Vines on a steep slope@Montigny

Auguste, the eldest son, joined his parents full-time in 2004 having racked up considerable experience in various parts of the wine world: with Paul Culver in South Africa, Newton Vineyards in Napa and three years with Michel Rolland at Chateau Fontenil. Matilde looks after the marketing and communications, while Vincent, who is here for the harvest, is working at Château Vieux Robin in the Médoc.

We started with the crisp and lemony Domaine 2007 with characteristic mineral notes as an aperitif. Overall 2007 is a lovely vintage for fans of Loire wines but may be too austere for some uncommitted drinkers.

Then we drank the rich and concentrated 2006 Cuvée François de la Grange de Montigny Sancerre with the scallops. This cuvée comes from old vines of at least 50 years old. The wine is aged for 12 months in 50 hl wooden foudres and 1987 was the first vintage. Matilde had kindly fetched the scallops from a fishmonger in nearby Veaugues early that morning – and this is in the middle of the harvest! Veaugues is about seven kilometres east of Montigny.

If you have time and are travelling from Bourges to Sancerre, it well worth diverting off the main road just after Saint-Céols into Montigny and taking the much quieter and prettier road through to Veaugues and rejoining the main road just before Bué. This is a lovely drive through a mix of fields, vineyards and forests – particularly attractive with the autumn colours.

Sauvignon Blanc: Montigny

Every so often one of the family would get up from the round table and disappear either to fix the next course or to check on the harvest. “We started yesterday,” said Henry earlier, “and we have made a good start. The degrees are between 12 and 12.5, whereas last week they were at 11-11.5. The yields are fractionally less at 50-55 hl/ha instead of our normal 60. We try not to crop ate below 40 hl/ha as I think this puts the vines out of balance.”

Henry’s father was an English professor at the Sorbonne, who spent some time in Oxford during his son’s formative years. Henry was happy to reminisce about those times – Oxford, the River Cherwell and the Great Train Robbery, although none of us could at the time recall the exact date – August 1963. He recalled this father’s liberal approach to parenting and from the slight frisson around the table I sensed that Henry’s approach with his children had been rather more strict.

Henry also explained that his father was a friend of the father of Alphonse Mellot snr and he talked about the famous Maison de Sancerre in Paris that Mellot founded in the 1950s and which attracted many of the celebrities of the day.

Bell@the domaine

The Natters have four hectares of Pinot Noir. With the fish we drank the quite light but attractive Domaine Sancerre Rouge 2006. This wine straddles the divide between the very light traditional Sancerre reds and the much more structured and concentrated wines that an increasing number of producers are now making. It has a lovely spicy Pinot Noir character and rather more weight than you initially imagine. Their top red is a selection of the best juice and is called L’Enchantment – we were served the rich and soft 2005.

Henry Natter vines overlooking the village of Montigny

After lunch we went with Cécile and Henry on a brief tour of the vines up to the top of the ridge overlooking the village. “We are a little bit higher than Sancerre here,” explained Cécile. “Flowering usually occurs at the same time as Sancerre, while budbreak can be a little bit earlier. However, Sancerre is a bit warmer and the harvest here tends to be a week to ten days later – except in the exceptionally hot 2003 vintage when we harvested at the same time.”

If you are looking for a Sancerre producer to visit, who is off the main tourist drag, Domaine Henry Natter is cartainly one to try but you need to phone or email in advance. Open Monday to Friday.

Domaine Henry Natter, 4 Place de l'Eglise, 18250 Montigny
Tel: 02.48.69.58.85
Email: info@henrynatter.com
Web: www.henrynatter.com

I caught up briefly with Vincent and Catherine on the phone this morning for a progress report on 2008.

Vincent: Overall the vintage isn’t too bad. We have been very surprised by how little there is – lack of juice in the grapes and small berries. However, the quality across the board – Rosé de Loire, Cabernet d’Anjou, Anjou Blanc Sec and the reds – is good. We finished the Cabernet Franc last Saturday. As it was completely ready we picked all of it in a day with a big team of 20-25, including university friends of Emmanuel (Catherine and Vincent’s son). The Franc had 13% potential and the acidity had come down to 4.8 gms – 10 days ago the it had been up at 7.5-8 gms. But the yield is only 20 hl/ha!

“On Thursday we finished the Cabernet Sauvignon in the Côte de la Houssaye – potential 13.7%. As far as the sweet wines are concerned we have hardly started – just two small passages through the vines with the grapes around 18% potential. The Chenin is now about ready to pick but it’s damp this morning and unfortunately rain is forecast for Monday and Tuesday. The pity is that if we had fine weather there is only about a week’s picking left.”

Vincent and Catherine with 2007 Coteaux du Layon
at the start of its fermentation (early Nov 2007)

(23 October 2008)

Non greffées = ungrafted

Off to the Barbican Centre (London) last night for the amazine Africa Now concert that featured Baaba Maal, Amadou & Mariam, Bassekou Kouyate, Oumou Sangare, Muntu Valdo, Toumani Diabate, Amy Sacko, Souad Massi, Rachid Taha, Sola Akingbola, Daara J Family and others. After an OK first half, the second set that featured a constantly changing group of musicians chiefly around Toumani Diabate was absolutely stunning – amazing haunting sounds. The concert was supposed to have been sold out but there were a number of empty seats near us.

So where does Henry Marionnet’s Ungrafted Gamay 2007 AC Touraine fit in? Well we grabbed a takeaway doner kebab on the way home and drank Henry Marionnet’s attractively black fruited 2007 Vinifera Gamay, which has considerable depth of flavour and is a real success for 2007, which was not an easy year for Loire reds. It certainly matched the doner kebab.


The ungrafted vines were planted in 1992 and, as far, as I know have not yet been attacked by phylloxera. He has around five hectares of ungrafted vines. As well as the Gamay, there is also Côt, Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin. It is fascinating to taste grafted versions of the same grape against the ungrafted ones. I was able to do this in early February 2007 and invariably the Vinifera wines had greater depth of flavour and more character.

Report on Henry Marionnet's 2008 vintage now in Sancerre, Menetou-Salon and Touraine (8 October 2008)

(8th October 2008)

Report on our visit to Alphonse Mellot has been added to the Sancerre, Menetou-Salon and Touraine posting (8th October 2008) plus a brief visit to Henry Pellé and to Henry Marionnet in Touraine. Visit to Henry Natter will a separate posting.

(22nd October 2008)

Bertho van der Westhuizen: the winemaker

Off to L’Oranger at the bottom of St James’s Street for a press dinner to launch various lines from Kleine Zalze, a South African producer based in Stellenbosch and owned by ex-corporate lawyer Kobus Basson. Hosted by Bertho van der Westhuizen, the winemaker, Ross Sleet, the export director, and Stevens Garnier, their off-trade distributor.

I started with a glass of their entry level, attractively fruited and characterful Foot of Africa Chenin Blanc (£5.20). It has a hint of sweetness. Bertho told us that it has less than five grams of residual sugar but my guess is that this is closer to five than to zero. Charles Metcalfe pointed out that the South African conception of dry was closer to the sweeter American one than to the European.

Bertho van der Westhuizen: the winemaker

The Zalze Bush Vines Chenin Blanc 2008 (£5.99) with richly textured, tropical fruit and fresh finish is next step up and worth the extra 79p. As with the first Chenin the fruit is bought in mainly from the southern part of Stellenbosch from vines between 25-40 years old. “This is old in South African terms,” said Bertho. “We are now picking Chenin riper than we used to which gives us greater complexity.”

Then onto the fine and honeyed Zalze barrel-fermented Chenin Blanc 2008 (£7.99). Fruit for this cuvée is chosen from three blocks, fermentation starts in stainless steel tanks before being transferred to 400 litre French barrels – no new wood is used. Any botrytised grapes are included, which shows on the honeyed aromas and rich texture.

Over dinner we drank the 2007 Vineyard Selection Chenin Blanc with the scallops with leeks and truffles and Jurançon dressing. The 2007 had attractive honey and quince flavours but was a less good match with the dish than the more racy 2008 Family Reserve Sauvignon Blanc (£19.99). The scallops were less successful than the delicious and perfectly cooked main course of rump of lamb en croûte of autumn fruits, aubergine and confit tomatoes flavoured with citrus. This dish was full southern French flavours with more than a nod to North Africa.

Our last wine was the Vineyard Selection Chenin Blanc 2006 – not currently available in retail but expected to be £24-£26 on a restaurant list. This series comes from Kleine Zalze’s own vines. The 2006 was wheeled out as an example of how Chenin can age, which was slightly bizarre as some Loire Chenin’s at a little over two years old are barely out of their incubators. To be fair the new winemaking team at Klein Zalze has only be in place for four years or so. However, I suspect that the citric but rich, honeyed 2006 with its touch of oxidation will age well, although whether it will have the same longevity as its equivalent in the Loire remains to be seen.

In my unbiased opinion the Chenins were the stand out wines of the evening but among the other wines we tasted the Zalze Shiraz/Mourvèdre/Viognier 2007 (S:70%, M: 25%, V:5%) was the clear winner in terms of value. This deep flavoured wine has lovely ripe, vibrant red fruits and is a snip at £5.99 (screwcap). This is one of the very rare occasions when the horribly abused expression ‘over deliver at the price point’ could be justified. As is often the case the value of the Family Reserve wines priced at £19.99 is less clear, although they are well made.

Bertho checks his escape route with the manager in case the reptiles get troublesome

A spokesperson declined to comment on whether there are any plans to launch an early morning range called Alka-Zalze.

Kleine Zalze, Strand Road, Stellenbosch 7613, South Africa
Tel: 27 (0)21 880 0717
www.kleinezalze.com

L’Oranger, 5 St James’s Street, London SW1A 1EF
Tel: 020-7839 3774
Web: www.loranger.co.uk

Normal sized ISO glass, a bottle of Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine sur lie

and the 'emergency' 2008 tasting glass

Because of the exceptionally small 2008 harvest in Muscadet, Interloire (Loire Valley Wines – www.vinsdeloire.fr) is now developing a special tasting glass in order to conserve precious stocks.

A spokesperson for Interloire told Jim’s Loire: “Can you imagine how much wine is poured for professional tastings and then just wasted. Because of the terrible and devastating frost of 7th April the 2008 Muscadet vintage is so small that, following demands from producers in the Pays Nantais, we have had to be innovative and create a special tasting glass just for this year. The bowl will be just 44 mms deep and filled to the maximum will hold only 42 mls compared to 200 mls for an ISO glass.

“Obviously we hope that 2009 will be a normal sized vintage and that we can return to the traditional sized tasting glasses.

Normal sized ISO glass, a bottle of Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine sur lie
and the 'emergency' 2008 tasting glass

“What you see today is just a prototype. The final glass will have Muscadet printed on it – in small type, of course. We think it will be fun to include a fish bone to emphasise how small the vintage is and naturally stress Muscadet’s wonderful affinity to fish."


Interloire expect that the new ‘emergency’ glasses will be launched and first used at the annual Salon des Vins de Loire in Angers from 2nd-4th February 2009 (www.salondesvinsdeloire.com).

Benoît Fouassier (Domaine Fouassier, Sancerre): Quelques nouvelles de nos vendanges
'Elles sont terminées chez nous depuis mercredi dernier, le 15/10.

Nous sommes très satisfaits de ce millésime 2008 du point de vue de la qualité. Nous avons rentré nos sauvignons avec des degrés entre 12 et 14 et des acidités de 5,5 à 6,4. Le rendement moyen est de 52 hl/ha en sauvignon. Pour les pinot noir, les degrés vont de 12,5 à 13,5 et les acidités de 5 à 5,5. Le rendement moyen en pinot noir est de 35 hl/ha cette année.

En ce qui concerne notre conversion en agriculture biologique et en biodynamie, nous avons conduit 18 ha pour la campagne 2008 et cette année nous conduisons nos 55 ha de vigne en biodynamie. C'est un challenge passionnant et une autre approche de la viticulture.

PS : Je n'ai pas de photos de Michaël Ott en vendanges, dommage!

Benoît Fouassier (Domaine Fouassier, Sancerre): Some news of our 2008 harvest:
‘We finished the harvest last Wedndesday (15th October)

‘We are very satisfied with the quality of 2008. The Sauvignons came in between 12%-14% potential with acidities between 5.5 and 6.4 gms. The average yield for the Sauvignon was 52 hl/ha. With the Pinot Noir the degrees were between 12.5%-13.5% with acidities between 5 to 5.5 and an average yield of 35 hl/ha.

‘As far as our conversion to organic and biodynamic viticulture, we have converted 18 ha this year and we are now starting to convert the rest of our 55 ha. It is a passionate challenge for us and a different approach to viticulture.

‘Unfortunately I don’t have any pictures of Michaël Ott (UK agent) harvesting. A pity!

Jean-Marie Bourgeois, Henri Bourgeois, Sancerre etc
A cautious assessment of the quality of 2008:
“Absolutely fantastic! We have been greatly surprised. However, the vintage is 20% of normal in quantity.

Jêrome Choblet, Domaine des Herbauges, Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu
“We finished the Muscadet on 29th September and harvested the Chardonnay on 29th and 30th. Because of the tiny harvest it only took us six days this year. We have had 18 hl/ha – we had thought to make 20-25 hl/ha but because of the lack of juice in the grapes the actual yield was lower. This is even worse than 1991 (overall the worst frost experienced in the Loire and western France in recent times). In 1991 we made 19.5 hl/ha. The average yield here in Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu is only 15 hl/ha. The overall average yield for Muscadet (Sèvre-et-Maine etc.) is 22 hl/ha.

“Although we were very stressed by our decision to wait for our grapes to ripen properly and to stop picking for a week after we found that our first grapes harvested on Monday 15th September were not properly ripe and with high acidity levels, the decision was absolutely right. We are very happy with the quality of 2008. Waiting that week extra gave us 2% more potential alcohol and reduced acidity, which had been at 8 gms but came down to between 5.6 and 6 gms. There is a lot of tartaric acidity and a lot is dropping out during fermentation.

“Because of the severe shortage of 2008 I can confirm that of all our large customers around the world Waitrose (UK supermarket) is the only client to whom we have guaranteed to supply. We have worked together for a long time and we have a long-term partnership – they will have UK exclusivity.”

A quick call this evening to Christophe Daviau, Domaine de Bablut, to find out how the vintage is progressing. The Daviau family have been at the Bablut in the market town of Brissac since 1546 – an estate agent’s nightmare!

Christophe: “We are still harvesting. We have finished the Cabernet Sauvignon – the last grapes were picked on Friday. The Cabernet Sauvignon was very ripe including the pips and skins and this year is much more evenly ripe than the Cabernet Franc, which is decidedly variable. I expect that there will be a 2008 Rocca Nigra (100% Cabernet Sauvignon) but am less sure about whether we will release a Petra Alba (Cabernet Franc on calcaire – limestone) in 2008. As usual the Cabernet Franc on calcaire is later in ripening.

Cabernet Sauvignon vines@Brissac
overlooking the L'Aubance Valley

“There is still not much juice in the grapes. Yields are about two thirds of what I had anticipated – about 25-30 h/ha for the Cabernet Sauvignon.”

“We didn’t pick this morning as there was a little rain but I expect we will start picking the Cabernet Franc tomorrow morning and finish on Friday. We picked the Chenin for the Anjou Blanc on Thursday and Friday of last week. It was a good thing we did as noble rot really developed over Saturday and Sunday. As for the Coteaux de l’Aubance I expect that we will begin on Friday and we’ll pick Monday and Tuesday – the forecast is good until Wednesday. Noble rot is now developing. I might release a little Grandpierre (Christophe’s single vineyard L’Aubance, which has a wonderfully mineral character, but there will be very little as the parcel was frosted.

It’s is a problem getting some of the grapes fully phonologically ripe as most of the leaves have now fallen off – because the vines started to anticipate winter early due to the cool temperatures in August. Also, of course, the vintage is later than in recent years.”

(30th August 2008)

On one of the few hot days in Touraine during August 2008 in Touraine we came across a ploughing contest at La Fosse Richoux, near Montrichard, by the crossroads of the road from Pontelevoy and Montrichard with that from Bourré to Chaumont.

I’ll leave the pictures to tell their story:

Picking machine of the steeply sloping Maimbray vineyards

Picking machine in Bué at the end of the day

View from Domaine Didier Dagueneau towards Les Loges

Hod carrier@Jacky Blot (Montlouis)

(Sunday 19th October)

In the village of Le Puy-Notre-Dame (eight kilometres west of Montreuil-Bellay) the vendange continues into the Sunday with many wineries still in action.

A marc collection (pomace) outside Domaine de Girardie

Pressing at Domaine de L'Enchantoir where
the old basket press meets
the Bucher RPF30 (pneumatic press)

Everyone has gone for lunch....but they were hand picking earlier
for Aymeric Hillaire the new kid on the block at Melaric
who has 3 ha of Cabernet Franc and and 0.7 ha of Chenin.

www.vins-melaric.com

Many thanks to Micaela Frow: www.lagrandemaison.net for the brief report and the photos.