1999 Cuvée des Gênets, Savennières, Domaine Laureau


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Damien Laureau is one of Savennières' younger vignerons, who along with a number of Anjou producers that have bought into the appellation and who have shaken up a previously rather complacent appellation. Cuvée des Gênets is made from Damien's younger vines of between 20-40 years old. This cuvée is largely made in stainless tank (90%) with just 10% in wood. The wine matures over 18 months.

Initial note: The 1999 has quite an evolved colour - light gold edging mid. Perfumed nose of evolved Loire Chenin – including quince, dry apricot and a hint of honey. Steely background and structure. Quince and yellow plum on palate flavours that follow through into an austere finish.

I opened this Savennières straight from the fridge – made an initial tasting note and then decanted it and left it to come up to room temperature. As it warmed up it became increasingly opulent balancing the austerity in the finish. In time aromas of beeswax developed and it was a good match with a buttery, pot roasted chicken. Classic Savennières!

This 1999 retails at £13.99, which is excellent value for a becoming mature Savennières. The value is dependent on not drinking this too cold. Probably 12-13˚C is fine and time in a decanter is likely to be beneficial. Show me equivalent value in Burgundy!

Click here for a fine and detailed report on Damien and Domaine Laureau by Bertrand Celce.

Sample kindly supplied by Les Caves de Pyrène (01483-455068 - trade; 01483-554750 - retail)

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