30 January 2010
On the last Saturday of January five* of us, who had just arrived in France and Angers, that day headed off for our first meal at Chez Rémi on the Boulevard Foch (No 7 bis – tel: 02.41.24.95.44). I guess Chez Rémi has been open for a couple or three years and 'natural' wines feature on its small wine list. It is a small restaurant and has built up quite a reputation. The same owner has the bar à vins Le Cercle Rouge at 4 Rue des Deux Haies (02.41.87.49.66) just off the Place de Raillement.
Richard Leroy: 2007 Les Noëls de Montbenault, Anjou Blanc
We started with a bottle of Richard Leroy's 2007 Les Noëls de Montbenault. – the top cuvée from this boutique operation. Richard is based in Rablay-sur-Layon and makes very fine dry Chenin. We were initially rather nonplussed as the 2007 was surprisingly deep coloured and slightly oxidative on the nose, although fresh and clean with some of weight on the palate. The last of Richard's wines that I had drunk were the 2006 which were lighter in colour. However, it was very interesting to see that over the course of an hour or so – we ordered other wines as well – that the wine became lighter in colour and the slightly oxidative character was replaced by a precise minerality. The 2007 was a good match with my entrée – a rich and creamy green crab bisque.
All in all the food, wine and ambiance of Chez Rémi was OK but I fancy we would have eaten better at either Le Relais or Le Petit Comptoir. Still it is another option when in Angers.
2008 Le Buisson Pouilleux, Clos du Tué Boeuf
Our next bottle was the 2008 Le Buisson Pouilleux, Clos du Tué Boeuf from the Puzelat brothers – Jean-Marie and Thierry. Unfortunately exposure to the air had the opposite effect on this wine. It started with some hints of oxidation, which became more marked with exposure to the air. Sadly the wine increasingly fell apart. Interestingly the brut sample 2009 Le Buisson Pouilleux that we tasted next day at the Renaissance tasting was fresh and looks promising.
The sole red we had was the easy drinking and delicious 2008 Chinon from Château de Coulaine – the entry level demonstrating that combination of soft fruit and acidity makes such a satisfying and refreshing drink.
The sole red we had was the easy drinking and delicious 2008 Chinon from Château de Coulaine – the entry level demonstrating that combination of soft fruit and acidity makes such a satisfying and refreshing drink.
All in all the food, wine and ambiance of Chez Rémi was OK but I fancy we would have eaten better at either Le Relais or Le Petit Comptoir. Still it is another option when in Angers.
*The five: Sarah Ahmed (The wine detective), Chris Kissack (The wine doctor), Tom King and Nigel Wilkinson (RSJ Restaurant) and myself.
