Abel Osorio, Nau Frères
Firstly my apologies I had intended to get this post written yesterday but got delayed partly by having to get my weekly post for Les 5 du Vin written (see here) but also following the tumultuous events across North Africa and the Middle East, especially Libya of course. I've done my fair share of deriding silly tweets but in the current situation you can see the power and effectiveness of tweets for spreading news quickly. See the Guardian's page of tweets from around North Africa and the Middle East.
Although I have never yet managed to visit them (I must spend more time in the Loire!) I think Nau Frères are among the best of Bourgueil's producers and always enjoy tasting with Abel Osorio during the Salon. He shares the stand with Philippe Pichard of Chinon and François Pinon, a top Vouvray producer whose wines I didn't have time to taste this year – again I need to visit!
With Abel I started with their attractive easy drinking 2010 Bourgueil Rosé with its wild red fruit flavours and a touch of bitterness in the finish. One third comes from immediately pressed fruit and two thirds is saignée (juice run off from a red vat). 2010 Les Varennes was the first red – juicy, black fruits – a cuvée printemps, which will be bottled in March. It comes from vines planted on sand and gravel with a little clay. 2010 Les Blottières, which is from vines on gravel and limestone, is more structured with greater length of flavour than the Varennes with black fruits and floral tones, violets in particular. It will be bottled later on this year.
I asked Abel about the difference between 2010 and 2009. "2009 is bigger – more massive and imposing," he replied, "with the tannins more present. In 2010 the fruit is more suave with smoother tannins. The fruit was riper in 2010 with lots of black fruit flavours. Due to less good flowering conditions in 2010 the yields are a little bit lower than in 2009. With us we had average yields of 44 hl/ha in 2010, while 2009 they were 48/49 hl/ha. I think 2005 and 2009 are comparable. 2010 is like 2006 but with more elegance."
I asked Abel about the difference between 2010 and 2009. "2009 is bigger – more massive and imposing," he replied, "with the tannins more present. In 2010 the fruit is more suave with smoother tannins. The fruit was riper in 2010 with lots of black fruit flavours. Due to less good flowering conditions in 2010 the yields are a little bit lower than in 2009. With us we had average yields of 44 hl/ha in 2010, while 2009 they were 48/49 hl/ha. I think 2005 and 2009 are comparable. 2010 is like 2006 but with more elegance."
2008 Vieilles Vignes, Bourgueil, Nau Frères
We moved on to the 2009s. First Les Blottières with its tannins well incorporated with the fruit and a quite mineral finish. The 2009 Vielles Vignes from the clay limestone coteaux has yet to be bottled but it certainly has potential with its concentration of ripe fruit and tannins but you will need to wait a good five years to enjoy it at its best. We finished on a real high – the 2008 Vieilles Vignes. Less concentrated than the 2009, this has lovely sweet, elegant fruit and is all about finesse rather than power. Best to wait three to five years.
