Willie Lebus
Up to Chalk Farm (London) this afternoon for Bibendum's America's Most Wanted tasting hosted by Willie Lebus. Lebus was recently officially designated as a wine trade National Treasure in the queen's recent berthday honours.
A glimpse of the Treasure
The range, which had been assembled by Bibendum's Iain Muggoch, started with a delicate and floral 2010 Pinot Noir from Laberinto from vines planted high up in the hills of the Maule Valley. The remaining Chilean wines came from four producers who are part of a Chilean association called MOVI – the Movement of Independent Vintners. MOVI has 18 members 'committed to making small quantities of terroir-driven wines'.
2006 Rukumilla, Maipo Valley
The first MOVI makers were Andreas Costa and his wife Angelica Groves, who have a hectare of vines in their back garden. Rukumilla is a field blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Syrah. There were two vintages to try – 2005 and 2006. I preferred the 2006 with its sweet fruit, good length and quite earthy character. There were only 1500 bottles made in 2006, while there were 4000 in 2005. The blends vary considerably from year to year. Rather curiously we were given quite precise grape percentages for the two years, which I would have thought would be difficult with a field blend.
2010 Dry farmed Carignan with 5% Grenache (above) a previous vintage/lot number below
This fine, concentrated and powerful 2010 Carignan comes from Cauquenes in the Maule province with vineyards very close to the sea – almost right on the beach. The wine is made in tiny micro-bin fermenters holding 2000 litres. Although powerful and concentrated it has character, balance and good length – again with a touch of funky earthiness.
Renowned winemaker Ed Flaherty is involved in MOVI and this blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo is made in a small open top fermenter at Ed's home. As one would expect this was much more polished than the other wines but slightly cloying despite the minty finish.
Lagar de Bezana was the last of the MOVI associates but I found their 2007 Limited Edition Syrah a little hot in the finish.
We ended with two red wines from the Seival Estate in Campanha in southern Brazil close to the Uruguayan border where the climate is Mediterranean. I loved the first one – 2006 Castras Portugesas with its attractively spicy blend of equal portions of Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz giving it a real Portuguese feel. Apparently Sesmarias is Brazil's most expensive home produced wine. A bland of Tempranillo, Cabernet, Merlot, Touriga Nacional, Tannat and Petit Verdot. The 2008 is unfortunately lathered in 200% new oak. I'd rather have the cheaper Castras Portugesas any day!
Apart from some old Calera Pinot Noirs (Mount Harlan, California) – vintages 2003, 2002 and 2001 – the most interesting wines on show were a small range of boutique wines from Chile and Brazil. There should have been a couple from Uruguay as well but the Chilean ash cloud had delayed their arrival.
The range, which had been assembled by Bibendum's Iain Muggoch, started with a delicate and floral 2010 Pinot Noir from Laberinto from vines planted high up in the hills of the Maule Valley. The remaining Chilean wines came from four producers who are part of a Chilean association called MOVI – the Movement of Independent Vintners. MOVI has 18 members 'committed to making small quantities of terroir-driven wines'.
2006 Rukumilla, Maipo ValleyThe first MOVI makers were Andreas Costa and his wife Angelica Groves, who have a hectare of vines in their back garden. Rukumilla is a field blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Syrah. There were two vintages to try – 2005 and 2006. I preferred the 2006 with its sweet fruit, good length and quite earthy character. There were only 1500 bottles made in 2006, while there were 4000 in 2005. The blends vary considerably from year to year. Rather curiously we were given quite precise grape percentages for the two years, which I would have thought would be difficult with a field blend.
2010 Dry farmed Carignan with 5% Grenache (above) a previous vintage/lot number below
This fine, concentrated and powerful 2010 Carignan comes from Cauquenes in the Maule province with vineyards very close to the sea – almost right on the beach. The wine is made in tiny micro-bin fermenters holding 2000 litres. Although powerful and concentrated it has character, balance and good length – again with a touch of funky earthiness.
Renowned winemaker Ed Flaherty is involved in MOVI and this blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo is made in a small open top fermenter at Ed's home. As one would expect this was much more polished than the other wines but slightly cloying despite the minty finish.
Lagar de Bezana was the last of the MOVI associates but I found their 2007 Limited Edition Syrah a little hot in the finish.
We ended with two red wines from the Seival Estate in Campanha in southern Brazil close to the Uruguayan border where the climate is Mediterranean. I loved the first one – 2006 Castras Portugesas with its attractively spicy blend of equal portions of Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz giving it a real Portuguese feel. Apparently Sesmarias is Brazil's most expensive home produced wine. A bland of Tempranillo, Cabernet, Merlot, Touriga Nacional, Tannat and Petit Verdot. The 2008 is unfortunately lathered in 200% new oak. I'd rather have the cheaper Castras Portugesas any day!
