More wines from the marché aux truffes: Bourgueil and Savennières


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Bruno Breton (Domaine du Carroi) with his 2009 Bourgueil Tradition

Bruno Breton's Bourgueils from his Domaine du Carroi was next up after the Jasnières of de Mianville. There was a small group of men clustered around the stand enthusiastically sampling the wines. Although he shares the same surname, Bruno Breton is no relation to the more media conscious Pierre Breton also of Bourgueil. Domaine du Carroi has 20 hectares of vines – 17.5 in Bourgueil and 2.5 in the neighbouring Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil.

I started with the juicy, soft, easy drinking 2009 Saint-Nicolas (7.00€). Just the sort of wine that would disappear rapidly when shared with friends. Next the more angular 2009 Bourgueil Prestige (6.50€),  which needs a bit more time to soften, although food would soften the tannins. Then on to the deep coloured, dense and concentrated 2009 Tradition (8.50€) with plenty of black fruits and structure. I'd buy the Saint-Nicolas to drink now and the reasonably priced Tradition (my preferred wine) to put away for a couple of years or more. I do, however, find it a little strange that 'Tradition' is used for the top wine whereas the lesser Bourgueil is called Prestige.     

Bruno explained that he picks by hand. When I asked about a sorting table he said he didn't have one as he was in the vineyard with the pickers making sure of the quality. 

Roselyne and Bruno Breton
Domaine du Carroi
45 Rue Basse, 37140 Restigne
Phone : 02.47.97.31.35   

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Luc Bizard

I
finished with a range of 2009 Savennières from Château d'Epiré with owner, Luc Bizard. Firstly the minerally, quite tight 2009 Epiré (11.50€), which is a blend of a number of parcels. Le Hu Boyau  (13.50€) from 50 year-old vines using an old clone that produces small bunches is definitely a step up and worth the additional two euros with more concentration, texture, minerality and length.

Then on to the concentrated, quite rich but well balanced Cuvée Speciale (14.50€) from vines on roches bleues (phtanites). There is no malo on this cuvée, whereas there is a partial malo on the first two wines. Equally there is no malo on La Reserve du Maître, whose grapes come from the same type of soil as the Cuvée Spéciale but are aged in acacia barrels. I found La Reserve du Maître was a little more drying on the finish than the Spéciale, although I think both should age well.      

To be concluded.



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