2009 En Chenin, Anjou Blanc, Domaine Ogereau

With the 2009 vintage Vincent and Catherine Ogereau have two new wines: En Chenin – an Anjou Blanc – and Harmonie des Bonnes Blanches, a Coteaux du Layon Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay.

Previously the Ogereaus had two Anjou Blancs: one that was bottled early and was a blend of 80% Chenin Blanc with an addition of 20% Chardonnay. "The Chenin-Chardonnay doesn't sell well," explained Vincent, "our clients are looking for Chenin. The En Chenin will also replace our Anjou Cuvée Prtestige."

The 2009 has quince and pear aromas with a hint of honey and mouthfilling fruit with an attractive mineral finish with some light wood notes on the finish. I'm pleased to see this change as Chenin-Chardonnay wasn't a great success and the 2009 version of this new cuvée is well superior to the old Anjou Blanc.

2009 Harmonie des Bonnes Blanches 

Harmonie des Bonnes Blanches will replace the Coteaux du Layon Cuvée Prestige. In a sense it will be second wine of the Clos des Bonnes Blanches. "We only make the Clos des Bonnes Blanches in the best vintages – so probably one year every two or three years," said Vincent. "We expect to make Harmonie almost every year and this will give us greater flexibility. The 2009 was picked at the end of October with a potential of 21˚. We have made a Clos des Bonnes Blanches in 2010 – 100 hls."

The 2009 Harmonie has a lovely purity of fruit along with a lightness of touch.  

2002 Clos de la Division, Anjou Blanc, Château la Varière, Jacques Beaujeau

I always like revelations. I remember tasting Philippe Vatan's 1990 Saumur (Château de Hureau) for the first time sometime in the summer of 1991, I guess, and then shortly afterwards drinking it with Nigel Wilkinson of the RSJ Restaurant at the Hotel Anne d'Anjou in Saumur. Philippe's Saumur Blanc was a revelation because it showed what could be done with Chenin Blanc in Saumur. Subsequently I have tasted and drunk many impressive Saumur Blancs from a number of producers but Philippe's 1990 remains a key bottle. Sadly the last one I tried a couple of years ago was completely oxidised but that is beside the point as what was important was how it tasted back in 1991 and 1992.

Although Jacques Beaujeau's 2002 is not revelatory in the same way as Philippe's was as I have tasted, drunk and enjoyed too many fine Anjou Blancs over the years for the quality of this 2002 to be a surprise. Rather I hadn't realised that Jacques Beaujeau at Varière was producing such stunningly good Anjou Blanc. Of course 2002 is a particularly well balanced and attractive vintage but even so!

Vinfication in barrel gives added complexity. The 2002 is golden hued with ripe yellow plum and peach aromas, richly textured palate, lovely balance with delicate acidity. The acidity of a Saumur Blanc of the same age would almost certainly be more marked. The 2002 could easily be mistaken for a fine Alsace wine or a Meursault, perhaps. A good match with a free range chicken in a rich sauce. It worked well this evening with chicken in a spicy coconut sauce. Proof that Anjou Blanc can be very fine and not expensive!

At the end of the French Independent Wine Growers tasting at Lords on Tuesday it was hard to refuse the many offers of bottles to take away as the producers no longer wanted them – too many for them to carry plus all the security restrictions. I did agree to take four, so I departed Lords clanking like an habitual pique-assiette. Had I wished and been strong enough I could have left with at least 12!

One of the bottles I took was this nearly full bottle of 2008 Anjou Blanc from Château Soucherie. I had been very impressed by it at the tasting, so was very pleased to get the opportunity to taste this wine, 100% Chenin Blanc from a parcel of 80 year old vines, again. It did not disappoint having a lovely balance of fruit and acidity. The acidity is the crucial element: ripe not at all green and provides a counterbalance for the quite mouth filling fruit. Wonderfully precise wine that carries off its 14% alcohol.

This property was long owned by the Tijou family but a couple of years ago it was bought by Roger François Béquinot. There are 30 hectares of vines – 24 at Beaulieu, four in Chaume and two in Savennières (Clos les Perrières).