Showing posts with label Bernard Baudry. Show all posts

Loire vignerons in the round: Bernard et Matthieu Baudry (Chinon)


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Bernard and Matthieu Baudry (Domaine Bernard Baudry, Cravant-les-Coteaux, AC Chinon)

Quick trip to Chinon on Monday afternoon  to taste some 2009s. First visit was to Domaine Bernard Baudry where Matthieu has now taken over from his father, Bernard who is now officially retired although in fact he is still very much involved.

Matthieu Baudry



Details of wines and tasting notes to be added.

2010: Chinon


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Domaine Bernard Baudry: sorting and loading grapes into the vat

Even spending three weeks trying to cover the vintage in the Loire is not enough given the size of the region. Fortunately not all the grapes ripen at the same time nor do all the regions pick at the same moment. Unfortunately this year the time available for Chinon, Bourgueil, Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil and Saumur was just one day, so we only had time to nip in and see a few people in each appellation.

Jean-Martin Dutour, Baudry-Dutour
First stop was the Baudry-Dutour winery just to the east of Panzoult."We started picking for the rosé last week," said Jean-Martin. "The grapes are coming in at 12% and they are fine for rosé but not ripe enough for reds. We used to make rosé de saignée but now we have specific parcels for our rosé. Saignée never makes the best rosé. It is much better to grow grapes specifically for rosé. Yesterday we started picking Les Perrières as the grape skins are now ripe (12%-12.5%, 4 acidity). We had thought to start hand picking the old vines on Monday but we have put it back a week to give them time to ripen further.

As for the Chenin we have picked for the cuvée traditional and will wait before we pick for the top. Once again this year we won't be chaptalising (adding sugar to the must) any of our wines. As I was leaving Jean-Martin reminded me of their new website.

View of Panzoult from Baudry-Dutour winery

Domaine Bernard Baudry
A real flying visit to see Bernard, who was busy sorting grapes with his team. Bernard: "we picked Le Clos Guillot yesterday with up to 13% potential. Although the grapes look good, there is a threat of rot."


 Cabernet Franc@Domaine Bernard Baudry

Food matches (1): Dioterie 1988 and pizza


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Pizzaman Fabrice in action at Saint-Georges-sur-Cher

(14 August 2008)
After our day in Chinon, Bourgueil and Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil we decide to have a bottle of Charles Joguet’s 1988 Clos de la Dioterie (Chinon) as well as the 2003 La Croix Boissée that Bernard Baudry kindly gave us at the end of our visit. We had already arranged that it was going to be pizzas this evening. Every Thursday Fabrice (tel: 06.63.52.00.43) and his mobile pizza oven are in front of the church in Saint–Georges-sur-Cher. Fabrice is in a different place each night of the week: Monday (Montrichard), Tuesday (Meusnes), Wednesday (Saint-Romain) and Friday (Contres). His pizzas are certainly recommended, although perhaps not the ideal match for the Dioterie.

The 1988 Dioterie is in fine shape: still bright coloured not looking its nearly 20 years with lovely delicate brambly fruit and long flavoured. It is showing all the finesse and delicacy that made Charles Joguet’s reputation. Equally it is a reminder of how good the 1988 Loire vintage can be both in reds and sweet whites. It has had the misfortune to be eclipsed by the two vintages that followed: the superb 1989 and, nearly as fine, 1990.

Clos de la Dioterie 1988, Chinon, Charles Joguet

Following Charles Joguet’s retirement in 1997 I have found the domaine patchy. In particular I remember tasting the range at one of Decanter's Fine Wine Encounters in the Landmark Hotel, London. Although I can’t at the moment remember the year I do remember finding the wines very disappointing. With a new team in place it is definitely time to reassess the recent releases.

The 1988 Dioterie proved to be a hard act to follow for the 2003 Croix Boissée, which has all the power and richness of the very hot 2003 vintage but is at the moment decidedly clumsy in comparison to the Dioterie.

Still to come from August visits with The Wine Detective our day in Montlouis: François Chidaine, Stéphane Cossais, Les Loges de la Folie and Jacky Blot.

Charles Joguet, La Dioterie, 37220 Sazilly
Tel: 02.47.58.55.53
Email: contact@charlesjoguet.com
Web: www.charlesjoguet.com

Fabrice Pizza: tel: 06.63.52.00.43

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