Bernard Fouquet's 1996 Le Marigny, Vouvray Sec made a fine apéritif this evening. Although now 14 years old this is still youhtful and it has developed attractive citric honey notes balanced with ripe acidity in the long finish.

Report on visit to Bernard Fouquet in January 2009.

3rd October 2009

1970 Clos du Bourg Moelleux

CRM's birthday so we have a few friends around to help us try a few bottles. We started with the 1970 Clos du Bourg Moelleux, Vouvray, Gaston Huet. Golden coloured, lightly sweet, honeyed with a wonderful fresh minerality. Certainly not a wine to serve with a dessert but perfect as an apéritif accompanied by canapés of home-made chicken liver paté. There was a view that this was starting to dry out but I think that came from a misapprehension that this was once much sweeter than it is now. Not sure whether we have anymore 1970 but I'm confident that it will keep a considerable while yet.

1976 Le Haut-Lieu Moelleux

Also for the apéritif we had the 1976 Le Haut-Lieu Moelleux, Vouvray, Gaston Huet. As the 1976 is richer than the 1970, I served this second. Despite the level being down an inch or so the 1976 was still fine – honeyed, quite rich and long lasting – a little deeper in colour to the 1970 but neither show their age. Both were lovely but my preference would go to the 1970 because of its precise minerality, which is a signature of wines from the Clos du Bourg. Having more clay at Le Haut Lieu the wines tend to be a little heavier without quite the finesse of Le Mont and Le Clos du Bourg. Both bottles were bought in the early 1980s.

1989 Selections des Grains Nobles, Domaine des Aubuisières, Bernard Fouquet

After this we moved away from the Loire until the dessert – a couple of fruit tarts from the excellent Serge Granger in Montrichard. The 1989 SGN from Bernard Fouquet is now showing well. Unlike the 1990s, the 1989s went through a long dumb stage from which they have now emerged . The 89 SGN has very attractive apricot and honeyed fruit with refreshing mineral acidity in the finish. It was best on its own – not quite rich enough for the tarts. Perhaps Le Marigny – the richer cuvée would have been a better choice.

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The day before (2nd October) we had had an impromptu tour of the Huet cellars when we dropped in to see how the start of the harvest was going. We had just picked up friends, Annie and John, from Tours Airport and Noël kindly suggested that Johan Le Calonnec, who is involved in the direct wine sales from the new tasting room and, very importantly, puts labels on venerable old bottles, would show us round. Here are a few photos.

Johan with Annie – he can now tell jokes in English!

The 62 bottles that remain of the 1936 Moelleux

53 remaining of the 1947

An old wooden press in the higher part of the cellars

Related articles:
The Wine Doctor: Two from Huet dining out winedr.blogspot.com/2009/11/two-from-huet-dining-out.html

Hugo with the guacamole & king prawn

23 August 2009

Menu cooked by Hugo Naon

Hugo used to be at Cordeillan-Bages and Café Lavinal. He is now planning to open a restaurant in central Bordeaux. He agreed to cook this special dinner at our friend's house in Pauillac. Much of the preparation was done beforehand with Hugo cooking and assembling the dishes on the night. It was a great treat to watch Hugo at work and also to see how much could be prepared in advance.

Les mises en bouches

Foccacia & Grisini with dips:

Anchoiade

Caponata

Cebiche

Guacamole & king prawn
All good but the guacamole and the king prawn along with the cebiche, made from maigre – a local fish – were standouts.

Entrée

Tomatoes, rocket, peppers

Marinated tomatoes and a pungent rocket salad from Derek’s garden
The tomatoes were roasted in an oven for 12 hours at a low heat and this was a simple but delicious dish

Pasta

Spaghetti & clams
A great Italian classic – again apparently simple but wonderfully flavoursome.

Main course

Hugo salting the lamb

Hugo was born in Buenos Aires, Argentina, where kids are taught to barbecue almost before they can walk. Hugo has revolutionised our Pauillac friends' barbecueing technique by showing how to build up a pile of hot coals on one side of the bbq and to regulate the heat by moving coals across as they are required. Also a lot of the cooking is done at a much higher height than most people customarily use, so avoiding the charred and blackened offerings that are typical of many bbqs.

Herb scented & grilled rack of lamb on a crusty polenta with 'petites legumes'
Just as delicious and succulent as the photo suggests.

Cheese

Dessert
The British-Italian connection: a trifle of summer pudding, vanilla ice cream & zabaglione Jean-Pierre's
Assorted berries from the Marche des Capucins in Bordeaux and a team effort in whipping up the zabaglione.

The wines:

We started with some Champagne from Eric Léger.

2001 Les Cormiers, Saumur Blanc Château de Villeneuve

The quality of Jean-Pierre Chevallier's top Saumur greatly impressed the eight of us, particularly two of our Pauillac friends' neighbours who said that there was nothing like this in Bordeaux. Initially the first bottle showed a little wood spice but this soon disappeared and the power, richness and complexity of Les Cormiers 2001 came through. The second bottle was a little more austere and mineral – clear bottle variation here. The 2001 Les Cormiers may well live longer than the 2001 Grand Clos that we drank the previous evening. If this wine wasn't appellation Saumur, it would be considered as one of France's Grand Vins.

2002 La Fleur Milon, Pauillac

The 2002 Fleur Milon drinking very well now with soft, supple black fruits underlaid by that typical Médoc tannin and austerity – good match with the lamb.

2007 Rémus, Montlouis, Domaine de la Taille aux Loups

2007 is the latest release of Rémus and it sold out within a couple of months.Served with the cheese, where despite being really too young its quite lean minerality worked well. 2007 is a vintage that should age well.

This 1990 Vouvray was a glorious finale from Bernard Fouquet. Mid-golden in colour with rich honeyed, 0apricot confit fruit and barley sugar flavours plus wonderful texture, this was a treat: a wine to sip slowly. Given its concentration it went well with our dessert. At the Vouvray Foire aux Vins one of the Vigneau-Chevreau brothers maintained that its is 1990 that is the greater vintage in comparison to 1989. I don't agree and I think both Noël Pinguet and Philppe Foreau believe that 1989 is superior to 1990, albeit that 1990 produced some very rich wines but 1989 has more complexity and finesse. Whatever Bernard's 1990 Selection des Grains Nobles is a reamrkable wine.

1990 Le Marigny SGN Vouvray Moelleux, Domaine des Aubuisières

The birthday boy – 'always worth practising before the event....'

Bernard outside his cellar: January 2009

Notes on my visit to Bernard (Domaine des Aubuisières) are now complete.

Bernard outside his cellar: January 2009

Domaine Huet: the new tasting room and offices, behind the red lorry

Tasting room below and offices above

Following my visit to Jacky Blot this morning, this afternoon was an opportunity to taste the 2008s at two of Vouvray's top producers – Domaine Huet and Bernard Fouquet.

After a brief look at the new tasting room and offices, currently under construction and due to be finished in the early part of 2009, I settled down to taste the 2008s with Jean-Bernard Berthomé, chef de culture and chef de cave. Noël Pinguet was busy undertaking an intensive English course. It is important to bear in mind that my comments and impressions are on unfinished wines, which will certainly change before they are bottled.

Jean-Bernard: “2008 was a small vintage in volume. We lost 50% of the crop because of the attack of mildew that followed the storm of the afternoon of Saturday 31st May*. I sprayed about half of our vines on the Friday and the Saturday morning then the storm arrived and we couldn’t get back onto the vineyards. There was virtually no mildew in the vines that had been protected, where they hadn’t been sprayed we lost nearly the whole crop.

“In the 10 ha that were fully protected – essentially Le Mont – we harvested 45 hl/ha. In another 10, including half of the Clos du Bourg, we made 20 hl/ha, while for the last 10 ha, mainly Le Haut Lieu we could make 5 hl/ha because of the mildew. However, in quality there is a very interesting balance between the sugar and the acidity.

Part of Le Clos du Bourg

(* During the afternoon of Saturday 31st May Vouvray suffered a very heavy storm with between 120 and 150 mms of rain falling in no more than 90 minutes. So intense was the rain that it destroyed several roads, flooded homes and cellars. It was then impossible to get tractors into the vineyards for the next ten days. The storm was very local – neighbouring Rochecorbon got hardly any rain.)

Jean-Bernard: “The fermentations have now finished and the wines have been kept cold since last Monday. We have made two cuvées of ‘sec’ this year – Le Clos du Bourg and Le Haut-Lieu. The level of alcohol at around 13.5%, acidity 6.5 gms and we have kept between 10-13 grams of residual sugar to mask the acidity. This is going to cause a problem for labeling as a sec can have no more than 9 gms of residual sugar.”

As usual the wines will be bottled early – in late-March/April – to keep their fruit. Of the two secs I preferred the more racier, more mineral Clos du Bourg with more finesse, although leaner than Le Haut-Lieu. There are two demi-secs – again one from Le Haut-Lieu, focussing on the fruit – citric and green apple, and Le Mont, which is more pineapple and grapefruit. Once again Le-Haut Lieu was less complex with a greater emphasis on the fruit, with Le Mont being finer and more delicate. Le Haut-Lieu has around 25-30 gms of residual sugar, while Le Mont has around 40. A precise analysis isn't yet available as the final blend is yet to be made.

There are three moelleux in 2008 – one from each of the famous parcels. First up Le Haut-Lieu with 45 gms of residual sugar with some attractive touches of honey, citric flavours and quite marked acidity in the finish. With 60 gms residual Clos du Bourg is richer and riper with more dried fruits – fruits confits – as well as cooked apple. Will need more time than Le Haut-Lieu to show its paces.

Jean-Bernard: “We nearly always finish the vendange with Le Mont with its clay and flint soil. This has 65 gms of residual sugar, 6 gms of acidity and 12.5% alc.” This has lovely vivacity, freshness and a thrilling balance of fruit and acidity. “Plus tonique,” says Jean-Bernard of the acidity. “This is my coup de coeur of the vintage.” I can see what he means but to me the Clos du Bourg ‘sec’ and Le Mont demi-sec are also very promising.

We then moved onto to taste the 2007s with a couple of pétillants providing the transition. Firstly the lightly golden 2001 with acacia honey flavours, some bottle evolution and apple freshness in the finish. I was quite surprised when Jean-Bernard told me that this has 15 grams of residual sugar. The liqueur d’expedition coming from the Le Mont 2001. Then the more complex and finer Reserve 1998 with aromas of toast and brioche, honey on the palate and a long fresh finish. Both can be happily kept, especially the 1998, for a number a years. On New Year’s Eve we drank our last bottle of the 1999 pétillant – delicious. I have been fortunate to drink the 1959 and 1937 mousseux – both memorable experiences and with no reason to believe in either case that the wines was on its last legs, although the 1937 was only lightly sparkling.

We tasted the three 2007 secs. My favourite was the well–balanced Clos du Bourg (13% alc, 7 gms rs and 5.5 acidity) with its attractive weight and floral and honeyed hints. Jean-Bernard thought that this might be beginning to close up – it is certainly not expressive on the nose at the moment. Le Mont was more mineral – plus tonique, while Le Haut-Lieu more apple flavoured. The two demi-secs were lovely and both more open and expressive than the secs. Le Haut-Lieu with 21 gms of residual has attractive honey and pear flavours. The emphasis here is on the fruit, while Le Mont 2007 with acacia honey aromas is more mineral and again has more finesse.

The last 2007 was one of the few moelleux made in Vouvray that year – Le Clos du Bourg. It has 45 gms of sugar remaining with a lovely balance of honey and mineral. Jean-Bernard noticed hints of torrefaction. At a low level of sweetness for a moelleux this should be easier to match with a range of dishes than super-rich sweet wines from more generous vintages. Certainly as an aperitif, with blue cheeses but also with rich pork dishes – the classic pork and prunes combination from Tours – or chicken in a rich cream sauce.

Next we tasted the 2006 Moelleux Clos du Bourg 1er Tri with 65 gms of residual sugar, 12.5% alc and 4.5 acidity. Light gold colour, honeyed quite rich nose of orange peel and barley sugar, however, there is slight dilution in the finish. This is an indication that because of the weather broke in late-September, the 2006s were never able to fulfil their potential as the grapes had to be picked quickly before widespread rot set in.

Then Jean-Bernard produced a curiosity that he said had never been sold – a 1993 1er Tri Moelleux from Le Haut-Lieu. This was a fascinating wine from a moderate vintage – burnished gold colour, barley sugar, caramel, some oxidation and quite marked acidity in the finish.

We finished with the 1996 1er tri Moelleux Le Mont – entirely from passerillage (sun dried grapes). This is a lovely wine ¬– wonderful delicacy and finesse with honeyed and spicy flavours (Jean-Bernard noted ginger) and beautifully balanced.

Jean-Bernard: “the 1996s have matured quietly and steadily – a linear evolution: they have never closed up. “

We briefly discussed the 1990s – another vintage that has never closed up, although the wines rapidly took on a medium gold colour making them look much older than they are. “Over the last two or three years the colour of the 1990s hasn’t changed,” explained Jean-Bernard. “Gaston Huet used to say that of the 1947, which also rapidly became deep coloured and then didn’t change. Indeed their colour has almost diminished and become satiny.”

Bernard Fouquet

Bernard Fouquet: tasting in his cave

As I left Jean-Bernard he told me to say hello to Bernard, who he has known for years as they were in primary school together. Bernard’s cellars are in the Vallée de Nouy just up from the entrance to the Clos Baudoin.

Bernard was one of the lucky ones in 2008 as he sprayed his vines against mildew just before the storm of the 31st May, so he avoided the virulent outbreak of mildew that followed the storm.

Bernard: “I made 42 hl/ha this year, while those who hadn’t sprayed unfortunately saw their vines engulfed by mildew. It was very lucky that there was no hail with the storm – if there had been it would have been a disaster! We picked between 10th and 22nd October. There was a lot of tartaric acid but that is now dropping out significantly with the cold.”

We tasted in Bernard’s cellars. It was not easy making sure that aromas picked up during tasting were from the wine or from the cellar. As the wines all tasted clean, I ascribed any mustiness to the cellar and not to the wines. We tasted 2008 and 2007 in parallel.

The attractively soft Silex 2008, a sec, was the first – mineral with a hint of honey, precise and persistent. (It has 13.2% alc, 6 gms of residual and 5.0 total acidity.) The 2007 Silex (13% alc, 6 gms rs and 4.8 acidity) had good length but was less exciting than the 2008. Bernard detected petrol aromas.

Next a lovely 2008 Les Giraudières demi-sec –honeyed with crisp acidity with good length. It’s the thrilling mix of sweetness and austerity that makes top Vouvray so good and why a still demi-sec is the classic Vouvray style. Once again the 2007 Les Giraudières was less exciting than the unfinished 2008. Analytically very similar to the 2008 – 26 gms of residual against 25, almost identical acidity but at 12% half a degree of alcohol less. “The 2008s have more subtlety,” said Bernard. It may also be that some 2007s are closing up and there is the excitement of tasting the latest vintage.

Bernard: “Les Giraudières is in the same part of the première côte as Le Mont (Huet) and Philippe Foreau’s vines.” This is between the Rue de la la Croix Buisée in the west and La Vallée Chartier in the east.

We then backtracked in sweetness to Le Marigny sec, which is fermented in 400 litre barrels – 1/3 new, 1/3 one wine, 1/3 two wines – spending 10 months in wood before bottling in July. The 2007 has attractive weight and length with a touch of wood. Ideally needs another two or three years in bottle. The 2008 is still fermenting.

Last 2008 was a potentially lovely moelleux picked with a potential of 17.1% alc. It has 11.6% alc and 90 gms of residual. Currently it has flavours of grapefruit and honey and a precise mineral finish. At the end of picking the 2008s Bernard left a small parcel of grapes to see how they would develop but rain in early November ruined them.

Three older sweet wines to finish with starting with the 2002 Plan de Jean (100 gms rs, 6.5 acidity), a vineyard on clay and limestone and showed why 2002 is such a lovely vintage. Beautifully balanced with rich honeyed fruit and a vivid mineral finish. Bernard compared the 2002 with 1996, saying that it was better than the 1995. Then we looked at two from 2003. Le Marigny with 160 gms of rs had rich butterscotch flavours with good acidity for this heat wave year. “With grassed over vineyards you always get good acidity,” commented Bernard. Lastly the even more powerful Cuvée Alexandre – a big bruiser with 200 gms of rs – richer than Le Marigny yes but less interesting and less complex.

Bernard: “In 2003 we started picking the moelleux first and finished with the sec. It was so hot that I would leave the grapes in the coolness of the cellar overnight and then press the next morning.

Bernard said how much he liked the wines of Frantz Saumon and Xavier Weiskopff in Montlouis and the number of other new producers, like Stéphane Cossais, in that appellation also making exciting wine. I asked Bernard whether there are similar new discoveries to make in Vouvray. He confirmed my impression that it isn’t the same in Vouvray. He did, however, say I should taste the Vouvrays of Sébastien Brunet in Chançay. Brunet will be at the Salon des Vins de Loire in the main hall at stand L-M 306.

I have long counted Bernard Fouquet as one of Vouvray’s top producers. Robert Parker’s recently published 7th edition of the Wine Buyer’s Guide lists Bernard as an ‘outstanding’ producer along with Domaine Huet and Philippe Foreau. I’m not going to argue with that.

It was 1990 and the previous year,1989, that established Bernard Fouquet's reputation and placed him amongst the best of the Vouvray producers. Both 1989 and 1990 were very good vintages with 1989 probably the superior. Coincidentally this was the bi-centenary of the French Revolution, although doubtless many of the French would insist that this was no coincidence rather a sign of divine approval for overthrowing the French monarchy.

Perruches is a local name for flinty soil and this vineyard on limestone has a high proportion of flint. The 1990 Perruches Sec is now golden coloured, quite rich and honeyed with good balancing acidity in the finish. This is one to enjoy either as an aperitif, with a rich fish or chicken dish or with a selection of cheese. Drinking well now, this should comfortably last another 25 to 30 years.

1993 Le Marigny Domaine des Aubuisières, Vouvray Moelleux Bernard Fouquet



One of my stock rants or hobby-horses is the UK’s wine trade’s absurd practice of calling sweet wines – dessert wines. Not only does this quite unnecessarily restrict the occasions that people consider opening a bottle of sweet wine but also they often don’t match desserts well – often they can be a disaster. A sweet dessert accentuates the wine’s acidity and sharply reduces a wine’s sweetness.

Take this fine 1993 Vouvray moelleux from Bernard Fouquet, which we drunk this August with some cheese. 1993 is an unheralded vintage but Bernard’s moelleux is now showing very well – honeyed and delicately sweet it is ideal with cheese especially various blues – that classic combination of sweet and salty. It would probably also worked well with pork noisettes with prunes and a cream sauce – a typical Touraine dish. Equally well I suspect with a rich poulet à la crème and probably magret de canard with a sweet sauce, whose sweetness often clashes with a red.

I did once serve a straight 1994 Coteaux du Layon from Patrick Baudouin with pheasant à la Normande. It was a delicious combination with the cream apple and Calvados.

Bernard's 1993 would not have worked with a dessert – so why continue to use the term dessert wine? Do we have sausage wines?