At least Eurostar arrives on time for strike threatened party 

The stars from the Layon – Martie-Annick and Yves Guegniard, Catherine and Vincent Ogereau and Joëlle and Claude Papin – arrived in London early yesterday afternoon for a brief 24-hour visit for a couple of tastings at the RSJ Restaurant in London's Waterloo. Unfortunately the six are threatened with transport strikes on both sides of the Channel. Starting yesterday evening there is a 24-hour London tube strike and when they get back to Paris later today they could hit the start of a French rail strike. 

Here are some photos from the tasting at the RSJ last night:

Claude Papin

Catherine Ogereau

Joëlle Papin

Marie-Annick and Yves Guegniard

Vincent Ogereau

Tasters

 2008 Pouilly-Fumé, Domaine Champeau

We arranged to have an informal dinner (rien fancy) after the storytelling, so we bought a range of things from José Cruchet, a very good charcuterie in the centre of Montrichard, including a quiche aux poireaux and some jambon persillé plus various prepared salads.

For our apero we had the 2008 Pouilly-Fumé from Domaine Champeau (in Saint-Andelain) which was showing well with the medium weight typical of 2008 allied with mineral finish and ripe acidity. 

2007 Brouilly VV, Muriel and Yvan Chavrier

At table we had two Gamays as a contrast – the 2007 Brouilly VV and 2008 Les Originelles from Robert Sérol. One of my friends was rather sniffy about the Brouilly finding it rather thin. Although it is quite light, I think it is a fairly successful effort from a difficult vintage. He had, however, been rather spoiled tasting Claude Papin's remarkable Anjou Gamays during a buying trip to the Layon and Saumur the day before.  

2008 Les Originelles, Côte Roannaise, Domaine Robert Sérol

My critical friend found this 2008 from Robert Sérol more to his taste. I have to say that this was certainly the more attractive wine with soft easy drinking fruit but then 2008 is the better vintage. Both Gamays showed, however, that they work very well this sort of informal spread.

 2007 La Moynerie, Pouilly Fumé, Michel Redde et Fils

With the cheese – a selection of crottins from Chavignol – we uncorked the 2007 La Moynerie from Michel Redde. This prestige cuvée was also showing well and again typical of its vintage with very clean, precise fruit and minerality – leaner than the 2008 Champeau but a fine foil with the cheese.

1999 Clos des Bonnes Blanches, Coteaux du Layon Saint-Lambert, Vincent Ogereau

To finish with the fruit salad and strawberry we had this 50cl bottle of Layon from Vincent's best vineyard and a cuvée that he and Catherine only make in good vintages. Lovely rich but delicate candied, apricot and honeyed fruit but with a freshness in the finish. Delicious!

Salon trip report: 31 January 2009

Our next stop was just across the Layon to Domaine Ogereau in Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay. Catherine and Vincent are close friends of Claude and Joëlle Papin and they work together in Savennières on the Clos le Grand Beaupréau venture along with Yves Guignard of Domaine de la Bergerie in Champ-sur-Layon. For the first time Emmanuel, their son, joined us for the tasting. He is now in the middle of his wine studies and is hoping to be able to arrange a stage (work experience) in Oregon.

Vincent started by saying that in 2008 they had only made around 50% of their normal volume, which is never excessive. They expect to make 850/900 hectolitres a year – in 2008 they made only 600 hls.

As usual we tasted through the range – some 2008s plus other vintages – with everything meticulously organised in advance. We tasted the rosés and reds before turning to the whites. Also as usual there wasn’t, with one notable exception that I’ll come to later, a poor wine amongst them.

Particular favourites that I picked out were: 2008 Cabernet d’Anjou: all pretty red fruits and a pure, fresh finish.

2007 Anjou Villages: quite rich for a difficult vintage. The tannins are still a little edgy, so this ideally needs another year or two in bottle. However, equally, with food I’m sure it will be fine now.

2005 Anjou Blanc Prestige (100% Chenin Blanc): while the ‘basic’ cuvée includes 20% Chardonnay. The Prestige 2005 is rich and concentrated and has thrilling energy and precision in the finish. In comparison the 2006, tasted next, although richer and fuller even than the 2005, is more ponderous.

2007 Anjou Blanc Prestige: very promising – the volume of 2006 with the energy of 2005.

2008 Coteaux du Layon Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay: citric – hints of lime, apple too. An attractive, easy-drinking Layon and picked before 20th October. The good autumn weather of 2008 came to an abrupt end in early November whereafter it rained almost every day for the rest of the month dashing hopes of some very good sweet wines. Vincent showed us what they had picked in mid-November. Even though these grapes had a potential alcohol of 17% the result was dilute not fully clean. Fascinating to taste the two different cuvées. Needless to say the second won’t be appearing under the Ogereau name but will be sold off in bulk.

Emmanuel Ogereau

2007 Coteaux du Layon Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay: wonderful purity showing the hallmark of the 2007 vintage with rich peachy fruit and citric flavours.

2003 Bonnes Blanches Coteaux du Layon Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay 2005 Bonnes Blanches Coteaux du Layon Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay
A marvellous pair of rich sweet wines with the 2003 very rich and concentrated but with good freshness in the finish. “It’s beginning to eat some of its sugar,” observed Vincent. At the moment the 2005, with its honey and citric purity and balance, has it over the 2003 but in the long haul, I wonder.

We finished with the 2007 Bonnes Blanches Coteaux du Layon Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay with its exotic fruit, especially passion fruit. It’s good but decidedly overshadowed by the 2003 and 2005.

Following a very enjoyable lunch – simply but well cooked (Catherine always promises us a simple meal with no starter but cheese and dessert always follows the main course) it was off to the Lebretons at Domaine des Rochelles in Saint-Jean-de-Mauvrets close to the Loire and north of Brissac-Quincé.