2006 Côt (Clos Roche Blanche), 2008 Reuilly Pinot Noir (Denis Jamain) and 2005 Reserve (Château du Petit Thouars) 

Some notes on three recently drunk reds – made from the three different varieties. Let's start first with the 2008 Reuilly, which is 100% Pinot Noir and is made by always reliable Denis Jamain (Domaine de Reuilly). Described very succinctly as 'delicious' by CRM, this easy drinking, vibrantly red fruited Pinot that worked very well with veal kidneys finished in a cream and mushroom sauce. This is Denis straight Reuilly red cuvée designed to be drunk fairly young with an accent on the fruit. He has two other cuvées – Les Chênes and La Comtesse – that benefit from longer aging and are more complex wines. 

Denis' fine Pinots are another reminder that the Loire's Central Vineyards can and does produce Pinot Noirs that are well worth discovering if you are not already into this secret.

Next up the 2005 Reserve Cabernet Franc from Château du Petit Thouars offering remarkable value at 6€ from the château. It has the concentration, richness and power expected from a 2005. I decided to try this 2005 to see how it is developing. I concluded that it ideally needs another couple of years or so to show its best, so a bit a patience is needed. In the meantime drink the deliciously soft, black fruited 2009 Sélection (5€) from Thouars.

Then the 2006 Côt from the Clos Roche Blanche. I can't remember trying their 2006 Côt recently. It certainly has richness – spicy black fruits – but it is less precise and lacks a little of the zip in the finish that these Roche Blanche Côts normally have. It is still an attractive drink but I fancy it reflects the difficult conditions of the 2006 vintage when galloping rot forced vignerons to pick as rapidly as possible. I would certainly make sure it is served cool to preserve freshness.          

The Wine Society tasting@the top of the RIBA building, Portland Place, Central London

Returned from a sojourn in a wet and rather miserable Lisbon to a much cooler but bright, sunny London. The Wine Society showed 50 wines in a light airy setting at the top of the RIBA building. The tasting included three from the Loire – two of which were real stand outs.  
 

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 2007 Reuilly Blanc Denis Jamain 

This 2007 Les Pierres Plates Reuilly (Sauvignon Blanc) from Denis Jamain (£9.95) is delicious with attractive mouthfilling grapefruit flavours with all the cleaness and precision associated with the 2007 vintage. It is interesting tosee how some of the 2007s have taken on more weight over the past year or so. They still have the purity of the vintage but they are now less austere.  

 

 

2006 L'Effraie, Domaine de Bellivière. Eric Nicolas

It was the 2006 L'Effraie, Coteaux du Loir, Domaine de la Bellivière (£16) from Eric that did not entirely convince. I used to enjoy all of Eric's wine whether Jasnières or Coteaux du Loir. Recently they have raised a few questions. This 2006 just wasn't exciting – it was OK just lacked the wow factor that I have often found in Eric's wines. Some slight dilution in the finish – £3 cheaper than the Huet but, on this showing, Le Haut-Lieu is better value. 

At the Richards Walford tasting back in mid-January they showed the 2001 L'Effaie Coteaux du Loir, which was completely oxidised on this showing it was on its way to the mortuary. It could have been bottle variation. The 2004 Vieilles Vignes Eparses was also shown and this was more complex and less oxidised. The best wine from Eric that I have tasted recently was 2007 Les Rosiers at the Vini be good stand at this year's Salon des Vins de Loire. It had the precision and minerality of a 2007 along with some richness. I noted that it lacked a tiny bit of zip in the finish. Perhaps I'm beng over-critical!    

2007 Le Haut-Lieu, Vouvray demi-sec, Domaine Huet

This was my star of the tasting – 2007 Le Haut-Lieu demi -sec, Domaine Huet (£19). Light gold with lovely concentration and texture – flavours of peach and apricot – with a discreet sweetness in the long finish and all the purity of 2007. Lovely now, this will last for probably a good 40 years and may be more.  

Away for the Loire two other whites stood out for me: 

 

2007 Poggio al Tesoro Vermentino Solosole

I enjoyed this attractively opulently aromatic 2007 Poggio al Tesoro Vermentino Solosole from Italy (£12.95) as well as the minerally 2008 Craggy Range Te Muna Road Riesling with zinging acidity. 

 

Part of the RIBA building, Portland Place, London

Continuing the recent Sauvignon Blanc theme we opened this 2008 Reuilly Blanc, Domaine de Reuilly from Denis Jamain on Christmas Day to go with the smoked salmon and fresh prawn salad. Denis's minerally and grapefuit 2008 Reuilly duly did – being a good match with the salad.

Denis Jamain in his Pierres Plates vineyard: late September 2009

We visited Denis Jamain during the 2009 vintage in late September. See report here plus other reports here, and here. For other mentions of this top Reuilly estate use the search facility.

When I dropped in to see Denis Jamain in Reuilly (Domaine de Reuilly with 16ha) during the vendange I also picked up some samples which I have been trying over the past week or so. Here are notes on four of them.

2007 Reuilly Rouge (100% Pinot Noir)
Once again shows what can be done in a difficult vintage for reds. This 2007 is light but has deliciously vibrant red fruits, which will be best enjoyed when young. Like Jacky Preys' Touraine Pinot Noir 2007 this demonstrates that light doesn't mean weedy. Equally not all light Loire Pinot Noirs are good, some are just dilute and acid.



2004 Cuvée de la Comtesse, Reuilly Rouge
This is altogether a more serious and ambitious wine (100% Pinot Noir) – deeper in colour, more concentration, body and length. It has attractive black fruit flavours with a hint of Pinot Noir earthiness and some of the edgy quality of the 2004s. Drinking well now, especially if decanted an hour or two before serving. Could also be kept another three or four years possibly more. The Cuvée de la Comtesse was an excellent match for the find takeaway couscous from Epeigné's Le Lézard Vert specially prepared by Nacer.


2008 Reuilly Pinot Gris Rosé
Pinot Gris Rosé is a speciality of Reuilly, although it is becoming increasingly rare. In colour they tend to be more a vin gris – barely coloured – than rosé. This 2008 is a delicate is very vibrant, with light red fruit and citric flavours and an austere finish.


2008 Reuilly Blanc
White Reuilly is always made from 100% Sauvignon. Denis Jamain's 2008 Reuilly has none of those gooseberry, grassy notes that characterises a number of Loire Sauvignons. Instead grapefruit and lemon flavours are to the fore with some weight on the palate and a precise, long mineral finish. 'Tonique!' as some French might say. Both Denis Jamain's Pinot Gris and Reuilly Blanc have austere, clean finishes that amateurs of Loire wines will probably enjoy – others may find them too austere for their taste.

Denis Jamain, Domaine de Reuilly, Chemin des Petites Fontaines, 36200 Reuilly
Tel: 02.38.66.16.74
Email: denis-jamain@wanadoo.fr

Vineyards above the small town of Reuilly (above and below)

We have had another good day out in the vines with the weather still set fair, although there was a little more cloud around Reuilly and Quincy. Everyone, who was spared the hail, is very happy – even delighted with the quality of the harvest so far. In Reuilly and Quincy the vintage will be over next week.

We started at the Clos du Porteau (Saint–Georges-sur-Cher) as I wanted to take photos of several grape varieties that I had never photographed – Grolleau Gris, Pinot Gris (also known in the Loire as Malvoisie) and Menu Pineau (also known as Arbois). These will be posted separately.

Pickers in Reuilly

Sign for Le Chai de Reuilly

Immediately after this we headed for Reuilly. Firstly to have a look at the vineyards – they can be a little difficult to find at Reuilly as it is only a small appellation. Then dropped by Le Chai de Reuilly and had a quick chat with Claude Lafond and tasted some juice and some fermenting must. "We've done about two thirds of the harvest. It has been very dry but the rain at the beginning of the month was very good for the grapes. The Sauvignon Blanc is around 13.5% potential alc, Pinot Noir is around 13˚% and the Pinot Gris – 12.5%-13%. For all three varieties the acidity is between 4-5g per litre. I've now started to relax and the last two nights I have been sleeping better." All the samples of 2009 I tasted were gras but appeared to have balancing acidity and certainly no hint of false flavours as the grapes are so clean and healthy.

Denis Jamain in Les Pierres Plates

Next we went to see Denis Jamain and his partner Anne and their Villa Camille on the southern outskirts of Reuilly on the road to Issoudun. Denis is absolutely delighted by the quality of the 2009 grapes from his 16ha. "We have been able harvest each parcel at the optimum moment. He has only a small amount to finish including his Pinot Noir in Les Pierres Plates vineyard, which is in conversion to organic viticulture.

Denis Jamain: Pinot Noir in Les Pierres Plates

Then we drove the 10 kilometres north east from Reuilly to neighbouring Quincy (Sauvignon Blanc is the sole permitted variety here). First a brief stop in the village of Quincy to watch a couple of picking machines working in the vineyards of Gérard Bigonneau, who is based in nearby Brinay. About two thirds of the harvest in Quincy is now finished and there are plenty of picking machines either in the vineyards or on the roads heading to their next assignment.

Picking machine in vineyards of Gérard Bigonneau (AC Quincy)

Close up of the machine

Then we headed up to Brinay to see Jean Tatin, who was harvesting just to the south of the village by the cemetry. Jean was less happy: "We had hail in May and this was followed by the worst attack of mildew for 20 years. After the hail there was a drying wind from the east and I thought it wasn't necessary to spray against mildew. Big mistake! When we did spray 10-12 days later it was too late. We lost about 20% to hail and about the same to mildew. Overall the yield is about 40-45hl/ha but it is very variable with some parcels at 60hl/ha and some at 20hl/ha."

Jean Tatin with a bunch of 2009 Sauvignon Blanc – the browny patch on one of the grapes is acid rot

Jean: "Fortunately the grapes are big this year and full of juice, so this is helping to bring the yield up. There was plenty of rain in July, so although August was dry the vines haven't lacked water this year. There are still about 7-10 hectares to pick. We have finished at Domaine de Tremblay and we will finish Ballandors early next week. We can't wait any longer because the pourriture acide (acid rot) is starting to develop. Anyway despite the problems this year 2009 is a good vintage."

Picking machine@Ballandors

Sign for Domaine des Ballandors, Brinay

Noël Pinguet, Domaine Huet

Today there was one of those must attend tastings – Richards Walford at the Baltic Restaurant, London SE1. Although the Baltic is a good venue with excellent food, Richards W has to an extent become a victim of their success as the tasting area soon became quite cramped.

I concentrated on the smallish selection of Loires on show dominated by recent and some older vintages from Domaine Huet. Noël Pinguet was there as well as Anthony and Evelyn Hwang, who were also presenting wines from their Kiráyudvar estate in Tarcal, Tokaji.

First four other Loires with the crisp, lemony and quite austere 2007 Touraine Sauvignon from Jean-Christophe Manard of Mareuil–sur-Cher. Next another Sauvignon this time the 2007 Reuilly from Denis Jamain, this was again crisp and lemony but with more weight than the Mandard. Unfortunately Jamain's delicious 2007 Pinot Noir wasn't in the tasting. Then changing to Chenin Blanc with the 2007 Saumur Blanc from Frédéric Mabileau. Although this has some weight, it is considerably leaner and less expressive than it was before bottling. There is certainly potential there but it either needs time or out into a carafe for an hour or two before serving. Also on show was Frédéric’s vibrant 2007 Les Rouillères, Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil.


Then nine wines from Domaine that included several that I had tasted on 12th January. Confirmation that though the 2007 Le Mont sec is lovely, the powerful 2007 Clos de Bourg sec is even better with great mineral purity. The 2007 Le Mont demi-sec again showed well and was partnered with the golden hued 2000 Le Mont demi-sec showing greater complexity from its time in bottle gaining a long lasting, dry honey flavour that carries on into the quite austere finish.

Following Noël’s instruction I tasted the 1986 Le Clos du Bourg moelleux before the richer 2005. The 1986 has 32 gms of residual sugar – “a moelleux before global warming,” commented Noël. The 1986 has a typically pure and austere Huet finish preceded by a honeyed nose and a beeswax and mineral palate. Then the still very youthful, rich and honeyed 2005 Le Mont moelleux – only hinting at the complexity to come with age.

The 2002 Le Clos du Bourg moelleux 1er tri (58 gms rs) with its sweet honeyed fruit with hints of lychee, wonderful balance and length shows again what a marvelous vintage 2002 is. The hope, of course, is that 2008 will turn out equally well as September and October resembled 2002. The 1993 Le Haut Lieu moelleux 1er tri completed the line up. It was just as fascinating as it was when I tasted it with Jean-Bernard.“

Antony and Evelyn Hwang: Kiráyudvar estate and Domaine Huet

While Noël poured Vouvray, Anthony and Evelyn Hwang poured their Tokaji starting with the widely contrasting secs from 2005 and 2006. The 2005 slightly oxidative in style giving additional complexity, some beeswax and minerality, while the 2006 was more opulent, richer and less mineral. From the five other Tokajis on taste – a demi-sec and four sweet – the last two (2002 Aszù 6 Puttonyos and 2002 Aszù Lapis) really stood out. Here the richness in sugar (197 gms rs and 235 gms rs) is balanced by high acidity (9.5 and 9.2) giving the wines a thrilling tension. Perhaps inevitably this quality comes at a price – £56.49 and £84.49 a bottle respectively.

Richard Kelley MW

Also had time to catch up with Richard Kelley MW, who has nearly finished writing up his recent researches in Jasnières and the Coteaux du Vendômois. They should appear on his site soon. Richard has just become one of the world’s leading authorities on Châteaumeillant as well as exploring the Côte Roannaise.

I dropped in yesterday to Vinopolis for this annual event featuring some 75 independent wine producers from around France. Although the event was advertised to finish at 5.30 even at 4.30 when I arrived a number of the producers had already left. I was later arriving than I had intended, so it was a bit of a rush and naturally concentrated on Loire producers. Although I did manage to taste wines from a good number of them I didn’t manage to get to all of them.

Sadly there was little here to get excited about – certainly nothing sensational.

Probably the best wine was a 2007 Coteaux du Giennois (Sauvignon Blanc) from Domaine Langlois Père et Fils, run since 1996 by Catherine and Michel Langlois, which had attractive grapefruit character, some weight and good length. Their 2008 version – gooseberry and grapefruit – looks promising and will be bottled in February. The Langlois white’s showed better than their reds, which helps to confirm the disappointment I felt at the poor showing of Coteaux du Giennois reds at the tasting of Central Vineyard reds I did in Sancerre on 19th December 2008. Putting the light bodied 2007 Le Champ Galant (90% PN, 10% Gamay) in barrique for a year doesn’t strike me as a good idea and has imparted some harsh wood flavours to the finish. However, their 2005 was certainly the best of the Giennois I tasted in Sancerre.

A couple of other wines to mention – a 2008 Touraine Sauvignon and a 2007 Pinot Gris from Reuilly.

The 2008 Touraine Sauvignon from Domaine Le Haut Chesneau of Thesée in the Cher Valley is from old vines and a yield of 45 hl/ha per hectare looks promising with good concentration. Currently on its lees it will be bottled in May. Owners Jean-Marc and Béatrice Villemaine have 23 ha of vines with 10 planted with Sauvignon Blanc. Jean-Marc told me that they had been lucky in 2008 harvesting with their normal yields of around 60 hl/ha. Apparently the frost that hit Muscadet on 7th April also affected parts of the Cher Valley even though the young buds were still in their cotton bud stage then. Initially it had been assumed that they had escaped with damage only becoming apparent later.

Unfortunately the Villemaines’ other wines are less impressive, especially the reds. The difference being, I suspect a question of higher yields. Take the 2007 Gamay, which is dilute. This is hardly surprising given yields of 60-62 hl/ha. This Gamay’s limitations were all too clearly revealed by the 2006 Gamay from the Clos Roche Blanche, just across the Cher Valley from Thesée, that we drank over dinner last night. Admittedly 2006 is a different vintage but this has fruit, texture and concentration. Why? Because of significantly lower yields.

2006 Gamay Clos Roche Blanche: Touraine Gamay
doesn't have to be dilute

This is a pity as these wines are well made and a reduction in yields, would soon reap rewards qualitatively. I suspect that bringing the Gamay down to around 50 hl/ha would make a significant difference. However unfortunately the increase in quality might well not allow the Villemaine’s to charge a little more for their wines. This is one of the problems of the Cher Valley and, indeed, many other parts of the Loire – it is often possible to make a better living from making dilute wines from high yields than making high quality wines from low yields. Although in Sancerre and Pouilly people are prepared to pay a decent premium for high quality, the same is not true in a number of other Loire appellations, so quality is not rewarded and the quest for quality brings the penalty of a lower income. Of course, there may come a time when the market no longer wants dilute wines. Indeed it is difficult to see that dilute Touraine Gamays can have much appeal in the UK

The 2007 Reuilly Rosé, made from Pinot Gris, came from Domaine Jacques Vincent. Of their nine hectares, 4.5 are planted with Reuilly’s traditional variety – Pinot Gris. The naturally pale coloured 2007 is lightly spicy with good mouth filling ripe fruit and good length – a delicious and charming rosé. Unfortunately Pinot Gris here is in decline in favour of Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir – just 34 hectares now in Reuilly out of a total of 192 ha in production. The Pinot Gris rosé is Reully’s most individual wine – I hope it continues to be made.

There were a few 2008s on show and these confirmed that high levels of acidity could well be a problem for those who picked too early. A few shares in Rennies might be a wise investment.

(28th December 2008)
Tried another Pinot Noir from the Central Vineyards last night. This time a 2007 Reuilly Rouge from Denis Jamain’s Domaine de Reuilly. Light to medium-bodied with bright, youthful red fruits this very enjoyable and easy drinking wine turned out to be a perfect match with a rissotto con radicchio. An instance of where a lighter style red works well where a heavier, more structured one would have overpowered the risotto.

I haven’t yet visited the domiane but from a search on the net it has 15 hectares of vines: 10.5 ha of Sauvignon Blanc, 3.5 ha of Pinot Noir and a hectare of Pinot Gris.

Denis Jamain, Domaine de Reuilly, Chenin des Petites Fontaines, 36260 Reuilly.
Tel: 02.38.66.16.74
Email: denis-jamain@wanadoo.fr