2006 Côt (Clos Roche Blanche), 2008 Reuilly Pinot Noir (Denis Jamain) and 2005 Reserve (Château du Petit Thouars) 

Some notes on three recently drunk reds – made from the three different varieties. Let's start first with the 2008 Reuilly, which is 100% Pinot Noir and is made by always reliable Denis Jamain (Domaine de Reuilly). Described very succinctly as 'delicious' by CRM, this easy drinking, vibrantly red fruited Pinot that worked very well with veal kidneys finished in a cream and mushroom sauce. This is Denis straight Reuilly red cuvée designed to be drunk fairly young with an accent on the fruit. He has two other cuvées – Les Chênes and La Comtesse – that benefit from longer aging and are more complex wines. 

Denis' fine Pinots are another reminder that the Loire's Central Vineyards can and does produce Pinot Noirs that are well worth discovering if you are not already into this secret.

Next up the 2005 Reserve Cabernet Franc from Château du Petit Thouars offering remarkable value at 6€ from the château. It has the concentration, richness and power expected from a 2005. I decided to try this 2005 to see how it is developing. I concluded that it ideally needs another couple of years or so to show its best, so a bit a patience is needed. In the meantime drink the deliciously soft, black fruited 2009 Sélection (5€) from Thouars.

Then the 2006 Côt from the Clos Roche Blanche. I can't remember trying their 2006 Côt recently. It certainly has richness – spicy black fruits – but it is less precise and lacks a little of the zip in the finish that these Roche Blanche Côts normally have. It is still an attractive drink but I fancy it reflects the difficult conditions of the 2006 vintage when galloping rot forced vignerons to pick as rapidly as possible. I would certainly make sure it is served cool to preserve freshness.          

The Wine Society tasting@the top of the RIBA building, Portland Place, Central London

Returned from a sojourn in a wet and rather miserable Lisbon to a much cooler but bright, sunny London. The Wine Society showed 50 wines in a light airy setting at the top of the RIBA building. The tasting included three from the Loire – two of which were real stand outs.  
 

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 2007 Reuilly Blanc Denis Jamain 

This 2007 Les Pierres Plates Reuilly (Sauvignon Blanc) from Denis Jamain (£9.95) is delicious with attractive mouthfilling grapefruit flavours with all the cleaness and precision associated with the 2007 vintage. It is interesting tosee how some of the 2007s have taken on more weight over the past year or so. They still have the purity of the vintage but they are now less austere.  

 

 

2006 L'Effraie, Domaine de Bellivière. Eric Nicolas

It was the 2006 L'Effraie, Coteaux du Loir, Domaine de la Bellivière (£16) from Eric that did not entirely convince. I used to enjoy all of Eric's wine whether Jasnières or Coteaux du Loir. Recently they have raised a few questions. This 2006 just wasn't exciting – it was OK just lacked the wow factor that I have often found in Eric's wines. Some slight dilution in the finish – £3 cheaper than the Huet but, on this showing, Le Haut-Lieu is better value. 

At the Richards Walford tasting back in mid-January they showed the 2001 L'Effaie Coteaux du Loir, which was completely oxidised on this showing it was on its way to the mortuary. It could have been bottle variation. The 2004 Vieilles Vignes Eparses was also shown and this was more complex and less oxidised. The best wine from Eric that I have tasted recently was 2007 Les Rosiers at the Vini be good stand at this year's Salon des Vins de Loire. It had the precision and minerality of a 2007 along with some richness. I noted that it lacked a tiny bit of zip in the finish. Perhaps I'm beng over-critical!    

2007 Le Haut-Lieu, Vouvray demi-sec, Domaine Huet

This was my star of the tasting – 2007 Le Haut-Lieu demi -sec, Domaine Huet (£19). Light gold with lovely concentration and texture – flavours of peach and apricot – with a discreet sweetness in the long finish and all the purity of 2007. Lovely now, this will last for probably a good 40 years and may be more.  

Away for the Loire two other whites stood out for me: 

 

2007 Poggio al Tesoro Vermentino Solosole

I enjoyed this attractively opulently aromatic 2007 Poggio al Tesoro Vermentino Solosole from Italy (£12.95) as well as the minerally 2008 Craggy Range Te Muna Road Riesling with zinging acidity. 

 

Part of the RIBA building, Portland Place, London

Continuing the recent Sauvignon Blanc theme we opened this 2008 Reuilly Blanc, Domaine de Reuilly from Denis Jamain on Christmas Day to go with the smoked salmon and fresh prawn salad. Denis's minerally and grapefuit 2008 Reuilly duly did – being a good match with the salad.

Denis Jamain in his Pierres Plates vineyard: late September 2009

We visited Denis Jamain during the 2009 vintage in late September. See report here plus other reports here, and here. For other mentions of this top Reuilly estate use the search facility.