On Monday 6th September I posted an assessment of a bottle of the 2009 Clos de Chaumont, Saumur-Champigny from the Domaine de la Perruche that I had tasted in London. I was very surprised because the wine was very disappointing. Last night we had the opportunity to taste and drink another bottle of the 2009 Clos de Chaumont. It was entirely different – confirmed by CRM who tasted it blind. Although not a heavyweight Saumur-Champigny, this had good and attractive concentration of ripe fruit that is typical of 2009. This is a bottle to enjoy now, although it should keep happily for the next  three or four years. In contrast the Anjou Villages from Château la Varière, the other property of Jacques Beaujeau, is more a wine for longer ageing.

I can only assume that the disappointing bottle in London had been ruined by a defective cork. It wasn't corked but the cork had presumably stripped it of its character – making the wine thin and harsh. This disadvantage of cork receives less attention than the incidence of cork taint (TCA). It is, however, more insidious as the consumer assumes that the wine is poor and, unless they know the wine well, they are likely to avoid wines from this producer in future.

 

2007 Clos de Chaumont, Saumur-Champigny, Domaine de la Perruche

I'll admit to being perplexed. Last Thursday we tried the 2009 Clos de Chaumont and were surprised and disappointed – thin fruit and high acidity, which was particularly surprising in a 2009 red and when the straight 2009 Saumur-Champigny from Perruche had had plenty of attractive fruit.

 

Trying the 2007 only adds to the sense of puzzlement as this is an attractive Saunmur-Champigny from a difficult year with good concentration of spicy black fruits with a black pepper and clove character. 

 

The 45ha Domaine de la Perruche in Montsoreau belongs to Jacques and Anne Beaujeau. They bought the estate in 2002. 

2009 Saumur-Champigny from Domaine de la Perruche

Over the past few days we have tried a couple of 2009 Saumur-Champignys from the 45ha Domaine de la Perruche in Montsoreau. The straight 2009 Saumur-Champigny, which we tried last night, has attractive soft red fruits and some balancing acidity – all in all an easy drinking style of Saumur-Champigny to enjoy over the next two or three years.

The Domaine de la Perruche was bought by Jacques and Anne Beaujeau (Château la Varière, Brissac-Quincé) in 2002. It has 42ha of Cabernet Franc and three of Chenin Blanc.

 

2009 Clos de Chaumont, Saumur-Champigny, Domaine de la Perruche

In contrast we tried the Perruche's single vineyard 2009 Clos de Chaumont, Saumur-Champigny which was a considerablde disappointment with thin fruit and rasping acidity. It may, of course, been a poor bottle, although it certainly wasn't corked. On the evidence of this bottle well below the level of the straight 2009 Saumur-Champigny.


NB 24th September 2010. I have tasted another bottle of the 2009 Clos de Chaumont and am happy to report that it was completely different from the one tasted above. It had the attractive fruit of a 2009 and none of the rasping acidity noted above. Although the above bottle wasn't corked, I can only assume that the cork in the above bottle was defective. Unfortunately this is the worst aspect of cork when it diminishes a wine without leaving the tell-tale aroma of TCA.

Reassessment of the 2009 Clos de Chaumont here.