Pipette and glass@the cave Domaine de la Taille aux Loups

I spent this afternoon with Jacky Blot (Domaine de la Taille aux Loups) first visiting his new vineyard – Le Clos de Mosny – and then tasting from barrel a number of his 2010 Montlouis and Vouvray.

Jacky looking towards the south western end of the Clos

Jacky and Joëlle Blot took over the historic Clos Mosny from Monmousseau after the 2010 harvest. See the details here. Driving along the D40 from Saint-Martin-Le-Beau to Montlouis you pass the southern end of the Clos, whose walls completely encircle the 12ha vineyard and the Château de Mosny making 1.6 kilometres of wall to look after! Jacky has already hired a stonemason called Antoine to repair and look after the walls. I suspect he will be busy!

Ivy infested gateway

Although I had previously looked through the gate at the Clos I had never been inside, so it was particularly interesting to visit it with Jacky yesterday. It seems very likely that not all of the Clos will produce the same quality of grapes. The soil is a mix of flint and sand. Typically the soil in Montlouis becomes more sandy as you approach the southern part of the AC around Saint-Martin-le-Beau. The Clos slopes gently down from its northern end to the D40 road. It seems likely that the best part of the Clos, which faces south – south-west, will be from the upper and the middle parts. In the lower part the soil may be deeper with more clay. There looks to be a frost prone hollow at the south-western end. Some of the vines are around 50 years old.

The intention is that the best fruit from the Clos will be used for a single vineyard cuvée with the lesser fruit going into either Les Dix Arpents or to the base wine for Triple Zéro.

Pruning in the Clos (above and below)

Vines beyond the wall are part of the Clos Michet

Pruning has already started in the Clos as the cold snap at the end of November has allowed producers to start pruning earlier than normal. It makes particular sense in the clos as all the posts, etc. will be replaced here once pruning has finished. Yields will be drastically reduced – Jacky suggested that yields here in 2010 could have been in the order of 120/130 hl/ha, which was reduced at vintage time around 70hl/ha by discarding rotten bunches.

There is also a winery at the entrance to the Clos with a ground florr and cellar, which has a stock of bottles from the Monmousseau purchase. 

The Blots have a virtual monopoly of the Clos except for a small patch of untended vines (see below) at the northern end which belongs to the Château de Mosny, more an attractive manoir than a true château.

The Château de Mosny

It is a pity that the vineyard and the château have been in separate hands for some years now as there is a potential to make the Clos Mosny a show place for Montlouis.

Barrel tasting of 2010s

After visiting the Clos we headed back to the village of Husseau to taste the 2010s from both Montlouis and Vouvray from barrel – many of them still fermenting. It is always fascinating to taste wine at all of its stages, although it is difficult to fully know how the finished wine will taste, especially if there is still some sugar left to ferment and the blend is yet to be made. However, you can discern the broad outlines. At this early stage in their life they seem reminiscent to the 2007s and 2008s – very precise, clean flavours with quite strong acidity.

Among the many samples we tasted was the Clos Michet. 2009 was the first vintage of this Clos, which is adjacent and just to the west of the Clos Mosny. Michet is also 12 hectares but has a number of owners with Jacky now having some 4 hectares here as the deal with Monmousseau included some parcels in this Clos. My current impression is that Michet has less weight than Rémus, which comes from a number of parcels, but has delicacy, finesse and precision. We also tasted wine from the Château de la Bourdaisière, whose harvest Jacky has been looking after for the past three or four years.

Chassin – Jacky's preferred barrel maker

Jacky Blot (above and below)

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I gather that sometime over the past year Domaine Deletang (20ha) was sold to Michel Antier, a wine producer (Domaine de Cray) and restaurateur (La Cave à Montlouis).

Made from 50% Gamay and 50% Grolleau Noir and like the Triple Zéro white it has no added sugar at any point in its production. Dominated by red fruits, red currant in particular, it has an attractive touch of bitterness in the finish. Jacky Blot (Domaine de la Taille aux Loups) feels that this rosé could do with a bit more zip – to be more 'tonique'. One solution would be add around 10% of a Chenin base wine to this. Although for reasons beyond my understanding a still rosé (AC status) in the EU cannot be a blend of red and white wine, this is perfectly acceptable for sparkling wines.   

Le Clos du Château de Mosny

We arrived at the Domaine de la Taille aux Loups just after Joëlle and Jacky had finished lunch. As we were the first of the afternoon callers we had time to chat to Jacky about his recent acquisition of Le Clos du Château de Mosny (AC Montlouis). This is quite a complicated story.

Around 2007, while chatting to a representative of Monmousseau, the sparkling wine company based in Montrichard, Jacky expressed an interest in Le Clos Mosny should Monmousseau ever be interested in selling. The rep had told that Jacky even though they had reps in 38 of the US states they were unable to sell their Montlouis there. Instead the grapes from the Clos were going into their sparkling wine range. This made little economic sense as they could buy grapes cheaper on the open market than they could be produced at Le Clos.

Soon the boss of Monmousseau contacted Jacky and they started to negotiate. However, just as they were about to sign in the latter part of 2007, Monmousseau pulled out of the deal. The 2007 vintage was short and Monmousseau were unable to source all their grape requirements, so they decided that it was best to hold onto their vineyards as business was then good. Needless to say Jacky wasn't best pleased!

The Clos: October 2010

Then, of course, in September 2008 the financial world virtually collapsed and the situation changed. In time Monmousseau got back in touch with Jacky and negotations started again in 2009. By this time Ackerman had become involved as they were looking to buy the sparkling wine side of Monmousseau, which is based in Montrichard. Ackerman were not interested in the vineyards and one of the conditions of purchase was that Monmousseau should dispose of their vineyards before the sale went through. Naturally Jacky was now playing poker with six aces!

Monmousseau was keen that Jacky should take the 2010 harvest from Le Clos Mosny but he wasn't interested. "The crop level was far too high," he told me. Eventually agreement was reached and Jacky signed the contract on Saturday 2nd October and I believe that the Ackerman's purchase of Monmousseau then went through the following Monday. Under the sale Jacky Blot has bought the company running the vineyard, which includes the various agricultural buildings. The vineyard, which totals 20 hectares – 12 in Le Clos and 8 outside – is in fermage for 19 years. At the end of the 19 years it will become part of the Domaine de la Taille aux Loups.

I'm delighted that the Clos de Mosny, which is on the road between Montlouis and Saint-Martin-le-Beau is now in the hands of a dynamic individual producer. There may well be possibilities for developing wine tourism here. Jacky intends to make a single vineyard cuvée from the best parcels of the Clos. "I'm sure not all of the Clos has the same terroir or potential for quality," Jacky explained. "I hope we can identify four or five hectares for Le Clos Mosny. This will be plenty for a single cuvée. grapes from the less good parts of the Clos will either go into Les Dix Argents or into Triple Zéro."

By this time customers were starting to turn up, so we tasted the range of 2009 Bourgueils (see a separate post to come) and departed with some 2009 reds along with a judicious investment in the new Triple Zéro Rosé.

Lynda's sparkling cake

The menu

Last night and early into this morning we had a great birthday party with Lynda at Hugo Naón's El Nacional in Bordeaux. The food was excellent, in particular the lamb grilled on the parrilla – the special Argentine grill that Hugo had installed in the restaurant and which is the centre piece of the cooking.

Champagne Nicolas Maillart to start

Derek and a glass of Maillart

Lynda


2009 Rémus, Domaine de la Taille aux Loups

Unfortunately Bordeaux doesn't grow Chenin Blanc, so Lynda and Derek had to import some 2009 Rémus in from Montlouis to the party's general approval. Although 2009 is likely to be less long lived than the very precise and classic 2008 Rémus, I think the 2009 fitted the bill better last night as it is rounder and softer than the 2008. It also went very well with the assortment of tapas and charcuterie served for the first course.

2007 Château l'Eglise, Montagne Saint-Emilion

The lamb

Santé!

2007 was a difficult vintage in Bordeaux with the wines not expected to have a long life. However, this softly textured 2007 and I suspect others are drinking well at the moment. This went very well with the delciously succulent lamb. An example of a wine that high not get a high score in a tasting but which was abolutely right for the occasion.

Digestif: 10 ans d'Age, Bas Armagnac, Francis Darroze

Back in August we had lunch at El Nacional and it was clear that there were some teething problems. These have clearly been sorted out as last night was excellent. I gather from Hugo that he is now doing 2000 covers a month, which is considerably more than he thought he would be doing at this stage in the restaurant's first year. Hugo will have to keep this level up as his girlfriend is expecting their first child due next July!

Hugo

 

Hugo and Derek

Young chef

Vivek Singh: Cinnamon Club

bottle chandelier

Jazz pianist who started the evening off

Some more pics:

Lynda and one of the servers

The amazing cake

Derek and Sue

Hugo with the guacamole & king prawn

23 August 2009

Menu cooked by Hugo Naon

Hugo used to be at Cordeillan-Bages and Café Lavinal. He is now planning to open a restaurant in central Bordeaux. He agreed to cook this special dinner at our friend's house in Pauillac. Much of the preparation was done beforehand with Hugo cooking and assembling the dishes on the night. It was a great treat to watch Hugo at work and also to see how much could be prepared in advance.

Les mises en bouches

Foccacia & Grisini with dips:

Anchoiade

Caponata

Cebiche

Guacamole & king prawn
All good but the guacamole and the king prawn along with the cebiche, made from maigre – a local fish – were standouts.

Entrée

Tomatoes, rocket, peppers

Marinated tomatoes and a pungent rocket salad from Derek’s garden
The tomatoes were roasted in an oven for 12 hours at a low heat and this was a simple but delicious dish

Pasta

Spaghetti & clams
A great Italian classic – again apparently simple but wonderfully flavoursome.

Main course

Hugo salting the lamb

Hugo was born in Buenos Aires, Argentina, where kids are taught to barbecue almost before they can walk. Hugo has revolutionised our Pauillac friends' barbecueing technique by showing how to build up a pile of hot coals on one side of the bbq and to regulate the heat by moving coals across as they are required. Also a lot of the cooking is done at a much higher height than most people customarily use, so avoiding the charred and blackened offerings that are typical of many bbqs.

Herb scented & grilled rack of lamb on a crusty polenta with 'petites legumes'
Just as delicious and succulent as the photo suggests.

Cheese

Dessert
The British-Italian connection: a trifle of summer pudding, vanilla ice cream & zabaglione Jean-Pierre's
Assorted berries from the Marche des Capucins in Bordeaux and a team effort in whipping up the zabaglione.

The wines:

We started with some Champagne from Eric Léger.

2001 Les Cormiers, Saumur Blanc Château de Villeneuve

The quality of Jean-Pierre Chevallier's top Saumur greatly impressed the eight of us, particularly two of our Pauillac friends' neighbours who said that there was nothing like this in Bordeaux. Initially the first bottle showed a little wood spice but this soon disappeared and the power, richness and complexity of Les Cormiers 2001 came through. The second bottle was a little more austere and mineral – clear bottle variation here. The 2001 Les Cormiers may well live longer than the 2001 Grand Clos that we drank the previous evening. If this wine wasn't appellation Saumur, it would be considered as one of France's Grand Vins.

2002 La Fleur Milon, Pauillac

The 2002 Fleur Milon drinking very well now with soft, supple black fruits underlaid by that typical Médoc tannin and austerity – good match with the lamb.

2007 Rémus, Montlouis, Domaine de la Taille aux Loups

2007 is the latest release of Rémus and it sold out within a couple of months.Served with the cheese, where despite being really too young its quite lean minerality worked well. 2007 is a vintage that should age well.

This 1990 Vouvray was a glorious finale from Bernard Fouquet. Mid-golden in colour with rich honeyed, 0apricot confit fruit and barley sugar flavours plus wonderful texture, this was a treat: a wine to sip slowly. Given its concentration it went well with our dessert. At the Vouvray Foire aux Vins one of the Vigneau-Chevreau brothers maintained that its is 1990 that is the greater vintage in comparison to 1989. I don't agree and I think both Noël Pinguet and Philppe Foreau believe that 1989 is superior to 1990, albeit that 1990 produced some very rich wines but 1989 has more complexity and finesse. Whatever Bernard's 1990 Selection des Grains Nobles is a reamrkable wine.

1990 Le Marigny SGN Vouvray Moelleux, Domaine des Aubuisières

The birthday boy – 'always worth practising before the event....'

Anne-Françoise drawing a sample of 2008

Visit this morning to the Domaine de la Taille aux Loups to taste the 2008s, which are still fermenting gently. Tasted with Anne-Françoise, the daughter of Jacky and Joëlle who are currently sunning themselves in the West Indies, having sensibly fled the cold of the Loire for a brief holiday before getting ready for the Salon des Vins de Loire.

Although still babies, the 2008 Montlouis and Vouvrays here look very promising, although it is too early to write detailed notes on them as they are still fermenting. They have a similar precision and purity as 2007, although perhaps with a little more weight. However, as they are still fermenting it is really too early to say.

Anne-Françoise: 'There was a very big difference between the level of acidity when we started to pick in early October to when we finished on the 29th October: levels started at 7 g and we finished on 5.5. So we see a big difference between le 1er passage and le 2eme passage. In 2008 Rémus is the heart of our Montlouis harvest."

Jacky Blot believes that 2008 is a great vintage for dry Chenin. Today's tasting, even at this early stage, suggests that he may well be right.

Anne-Françoise joined her parents at the domaine in 2006 after working for 11 years as a librarian. She had a six-month stage in Edinburgh in 1994 and then from 1995 to 2006 at the Bibliothèque Universitaire de Tours as well as some time working in Paris. "But I was always involved in the wine and came back for the vendange," she says.

Family dinner for eight starting with Jacky’s Blot’s 2000 Extra Brut Millésimé La Taille aux Loups – nicely rounded out and developed from its additional time in bottle – some toastiness and a hint of honey.

The 2007 Château du Cléray Muscadet Sèvre et Maine was brilliant with the first course of prawns having both weight and freshness but without sharp acidity. There was some surprise that Muscadet can be this good. The 2007 can clearly be drunk with pleasure now but should happily last for a good five years.

A magnum of the 2006 Expression de Cécile Sancerre Rouge from Henry Natter was perfect with the baked salmon trout – the wine’s soft red fruits being a fine foil to the trout’s quite delicate flesh. An illustration of how good a medium-bodied Sancerre red can be with some fish.

Then with the Tarte de Cambrai made with pears following the recipe in Jane Grigson’s Fruit Book, we finished off the 1990 Vouvray Moelleux Cuvée des Deronnières from Pascal Delaleu Domaine de la Galinière in Vernou.