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2010 Muscadet (part two): Côtes de Grandlieu


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Jérôme Choblet with a glass of 2010 Muscadet juice

Our last visit on Tuesday was across in Bouaye, one of the main towns of the Côtes de Grandlieu, where we dropped in on Jérôme Choblet. "We started on Monday 13th September and we expect to finish tomorrow," Jérôme told me. "The grapes average 12% with an acidity level below 4 – around 3.8-3.9. Wine drinkers will be pleased as they don't like acidity."

Jérôme was very pleased with a new picking machine called Selectiv' Process made by Pellenc that he had rented during the harvest. Unfortunately he had had to return it the day before so we didn't get to see it. A new machine costs 190,000€, so the Choblets had wanted to try it out before investing in one.



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Serge Batard checking the press


Part of a trailer load of hand picked grapes

On Wednesday morning we paid a short visit to Serge Batard (Domaine les Hautes Vignes in Saint-Leger-les-Vignes). Of the seven vignerons that we visited in Muscadet Serge was the only one who was not enthusiastic about 2010.

"It is a delicate vintage," Serge reported. "There is more rot than in 2009. We had a storm on the 7th/8th September with 50mm of rain, which restarted some rot, which had appeared in July but had dried out. I reckon we have lost about 10%-15% of the harvest because of this. The younger vines seem to have been hit more than the older vines. 2010 is not the vintage of the century for us!"

Serge reckoned he had about three days of picking left.  Even though Serge was not very happy with the vintage the grapes that I saw on the trailer looked pretty good – presumably the pickers had done a good job in the vineyard rejecting rotten grapes.



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Eric Chevalier: Domaine de l'Aujardière, Saint-Philbert-de-Grand-Lieu
Since he took over from his father, Gérard, on 1st April 2006, Eric has rapidly established himself as one of the new stars of the Pays Nantais, so it was good to be able to make a quick visit to his domaine, which is to the south east of Saint-Philbert-de-Grand-Lieu.

Although Eric's domaine is only about 18 kilometres away (in a straight line) from Serge in Saint-Leger, he didn't get the early September storm that has disrupted Serge's harvest. "Storms often pass on one side of the Lac or the other," Eric explained. He had just arrived with a trailer of machine-picked Fie Gris (Sauvignon Rose/Sauvignon Gris). 'We started this morning at 7am – yesterday it was 5.30am. It's coming in at 12.6%, so again no need to chaptalize (adding sugar to the must) this year, which makes it three years in a row. We started on the Fie Gris Jeunes Vignes last week. Picked the Melon on Friday and Saturday. The yields are good along with the quality – 85/90 hl/ha for the Chardonnay vin de pays."

We tasted various juices – Chardonnay (rich and clean), Pinot Noir for the rosé, Fie Gris and Melon. All tasted clean and promising, so will be good to taste the finished wine. At least five generations of the Chevalier family have farmed here. Gérard, Eric's father, was the first to decide to specialise in wine. He was also one of the first in the district to plant varieties to make vin de pays – pulling out Gros Plant and Melon to plant Chardonnay and Fie Gris.   

The domaine has 30 ha of vines – 12 Melon de Bourgogne and 18 vin de pays.  30% of their sales are from the cellar door and between 30%-40% export. Eric is imported by Kermit Lynch into the US and by Lea & Sandeman and SWIG into the UK.  

See my report on Eric Chevalier following the 2010 Salon des Vins de Loire here.

Eric getting a sample of 2010 Chardonnay juice for us to taste








2009 vintage@Domaine des Herbauges, Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu


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30 September 2009

Jérôme Choblet and his young family tasting 2009 juice before it has started fermenting

Having seen two producers in the Sèvre-Maine AC – Bernard Chereau (Château de Chasseloir) and Pierre, Monique, Pierre-Marie and Marie Luneau (Domaine Luneau-Papin) not forgetting Domaine de Topaze – we headed across to Bouaye to see Luc and Jérôme Choblet. Like Bernard and Pierre, they were both thrilled and exciting by the quality of the vintage – not surprising after the misery of last year's frost.

Jérôme Choblet: "The quality is extraordinary and as well we have a normal yield for the first time since 2005 – the last three years have been very difficult. We have finished the Melon de Bourgogne. Nothing came in under 11.5% potential and most of the crop has been around 12% potential. Acidity is between 3.5g-3.8g. We have 55hl/ha for the Melon and 65hl/ha for the Chardonnay vins de pays. We'll finish the Chardonnay tomorrow morning. It's been coming in at 12.96%-13.30% with the acidity between 4.2-4.4g.

Luc Choblet grins as he reverses one of the last trailer loads of Chardonnay towards the winery

Tasting the juice of both the Chardonnay and the Melon showed both to be impressively rich, clean but with good freshness in the finish. Indeed very like all the juice that I have so far tasted in various parts of the Loire over the past week.

Driving away from Bouaye towards our chambres d'hôtes in Monnières the exterior temperature at 6.20pm was still 24.5˚C – quite extraordinary!

(to be finished)

Muscadet: 'très grands vins blancs français'


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Jérôme Choblet: Domaine des Herbauges with 2008 juice

Jim: Bonjour Jérôme. Quelles nouvelles pour les vignes. Floraison bien passés? etc.

Jérôme: Bonjour Jim. Pas en France en ce moment mais quand je suis partis tout allais pour le mieux dans les vignes

Jim: C'est bon. En vacances?

Jérôme: Non en Chine, cela va vite devenir notre premier marché

Jim: Intéressants! vite?

Jérôme: Et la Chine ne s'arrête jamais donc l'été c'est le seul coin du monde où on peut encore faire des affaires.

Jim: Tu reviens quand? Parce que je vous donnerai un coup de Skype pour parler vignes en 2009.

Jérôme: Ici nos Muscadet Côtes de GrandLieu Sur Lie sont reconns comme de très grands vins blancs français, et nous pouvons les valoriser beaucoup plus que dans le reste du monde

Jim: Tes Muscadets sont en Chine depuis quand?

Jérôme: Depuis un peu plus de 2 ans

Jim: Incroyable croissance!

Jérôme: On en a vendu 38.000 Bt en 2 ans, et on a déjà plus de 50.000 Bt en commande pour livraison fin d'année, ça augmente très vite

Jim: Felicitations!

Jérôme: Ils adorent, même si il ont dans la tête les vins rouges, lorsqu'ils goûtent ils préfèrent largement les vins blancs.

(Jérôme explaining that the Chinese treat Muscadet as one of France's 'grands vins blancs' and accord it greater value than do many other markets around the world. Although he has only been exporting to China for little more than two years, Jérôme has already sold 38,000 bottles and has orders for another 50,000 to be delivered before the end of this year. Jérôme says that although the Chinese think they like red, when they taste they actually prefer white wines.

Hopefully the 2009 vintage will be of average volume, which will ease the supply crisis after two small vintages, especially the frost devastated 2008.)

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