Eric Chevalier, Domaine de l'Aujardière, Saint-Philbert-de-Grand-Lieu

The southern sector of Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu around the communes of Corcoué-sur-Logne, La Limouzinière and Saint-Philbert-de-Grand-Lieu was hit by a hailstorm on Monday night. I understand that Eric Chevalier was unfortunately amongst the producers affected.

As well as Muscadet this sector also produces vin de pays. The damage wrought by the hail has brought the harvest for the white grapes forward by about a week with picking starting this week. Unfortunately as the red grapes are not yet ripe, it is not possible to pick them now. Instead just hope that the damaged grapes do not turn rotten.    

More details here.

Eric Chevalier during the 2010 vintage

I'm delighted to announce that Eric Chevalier has been chosen as the Loire vigneron for Stage 3 of this year's Tour de France.

Today's stage starts in Olonne-sur-Mer and heads northwards avoiding the coast, which featured on Saturday's opening stage. As reported yesterday the route passes the winery of Thierry Michon (Domaine de Saint Nicolas). It then heads north east – ducking to the east of Challans – on a level to Nantes before heading north west towards Le Pont de Saint-Nazaire to cross La Loire and the race's entry into Brittany. It finishes at Redon.

As the race heads north west to La Loire it will pass through the small town of Saint-Philbert-de-Grand-Lieu. The talented Eric Chevalier is based just a few kilometres to the south of Saint-Philbert at the little hamlet of L'Aujardière. Eric's winery is just off the D70 used by the race but I am sure that he will be able to set up a table on the main road to allow the passing riders to sample his fine Fié Gris (Sauvignon Rose/Sauvignon Gris) and his equally good Muscadet Côtes de Grand Lieu. With the intermediate sprint at Saint-Hilaire-de-Chaléons some 20 kilometres further on I'm sure a glass of either would be an ideal preparation!

My guess – not a very difficult one! – is that this stage will end in a sprint. It would be good to see Mark Cavendish open his account for the 2011 Tour here.

Fié Gris: the wine that made Eric famous

2009 La Noë, Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu, Eric Chevalier, Domaine de l'Aujardière

A look at two more recently tasted 2009 Muscadets – one (Eric Chevalier) from the Salon des Vins de Loire and the other (Alexis Sauvion) kindly sent as a sample.

First up La Noë from a parcel that records show was first planted in 1694 (white grapes). This is 15 years before the extraordinarily severe winter of 1709, which is said to have persuaded produces that the Melon de Bourgogne was the right grape variety here because it resisted the prolonged cold. The La Noë vineyard is on granite with very little soil. Eric Chevalier is best known for his Fie Gris but his Muscadets are also impressive. The 2009 La Noë has buttery weight balanced by a good mineral grip in the long finish.

2009 Climat, Muscadet, Alexis Sauvion, Château de la Fessardière, Vallet

Alexis Sauvion is an organic Muscadet producer in Vallet  with 27 hectares of vines. They also make a range of jams and jellies – see here. I first tried the 2009 Climat back in June 2010 (see post). It has taken on more weight since then but although it is well made it still lacks the complexity and mineral excitement of top Muscadet. Estelle Sauvion had recommended that I tried it on several occasions, which I did. Perhaps I should have put it into a carafe.  

 

Jérôme Choblet with a glass of 2010 Muscadet juice

Our last visit on Tuesday was across in Bouaye, one of the main towns of the Côtes de Grandlieu, where we dropped in on Jérôme Choblet. "We started on Monday 13th September and we expect to finish tomorrow," Jérôme told me. "The grapes average 12% with an acidity level below 4 – around 3.8-3.9. Wine drinkers will be pleased as they don't like acidity."

Jérôme was very pleased with a new picking machine called Selectiv' Process made by Pellenc that he had rented during the harvest. Unfortunately he had had to return it the day before so we didn't get to see it. A new machine costs 190,000€, so the Choblets had wanted to try it out before investing in one.

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Serge Batard checking the press

Part of a trailer load of hand picked grapes

On Wednesday morning we paid a short visit to Serge Batard (Domaine les Hautes Vignes in Saint-Leger-les-Vignes). Of the seven vignerons that we visited in Muscadet Serge was the only one who was not enthusiastic about 2010.

"It is a delicate vintage," Serge reported. "There is more rot than in 2009. We had a storm on the 7th/8th September with 50mm of rain, which restarted some rot, which had appeared in July but had dried out. I reckon we have lost about 10%-15% of the harvest because of this. The younger vines seem to have been hit more than the older vines. 2010 is not the vintage of the century for us!"

Serge reckoned he had about three days of picking left.  Even though Serge was not very happy with the vintage the grapes that I saw on the trailer looked pretty good – presumably the pickers had done a good job in the vineyard rejecting rotten grapes.

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Eric Chevalier: Domaine de l'Aujardière, Saint-Philbert-de-Grand-Lieu
Since he took over from his father, Gérard, on 1st April 2006, Eric has rapidly established himself as one of the new stars of the Pays Nantais, so it was good to be able to make a quick visit to his domaine, which is to the south east of Saint-Philbert-de-Grand-Lieu.

Although Eric's domaine is only about 18 kilometres away (in a straight line) from Serge in Saint-Leger, he didn't get the early September storm that has disrupted Serge's harvest. "Storms often pass on one side of the Lac or the other," Eric explained. He had just arrived with a trailer of machine-picked Fie Gris (Sauvignon Rose/Sauvignon Gris). 'We started this morning at 7am – yesterday it was 5.30am. It's coming in at 12.6%, so again no need to chaptalize (adding sugar to the must) this year, which makes it three years in a row. We started on the Fie Gris Jeunes Vignes last week. Picked the Melon on Friday and Saturday. The yields are good along with the quality – 85/90 hl/ha for the Chardonnay vin de pays."

We tasted various juices – Chardonnay (rich and clean), Pinot Noir for the rosé, Fie Gris and Melon. All tasted clean and promising, so will be good to taste the finished wine. At least five generations of the Chevalier family have farmed here. Gérard, Eric's father, was the first to decide to specialise in wine. He was also one of the first in the district to plant varieties to make vin de pays – pulling out Gros Plant and Melon to plant Chardonnay and Fie Gris.   

The domaine has 30 ha of vines – 12 Melon de Bourgogne and 18 vin de pays.  30% of their sales are from the cellar door and between 30%-40% export. Eric is imported by Kermit Lynch into the US and by Lea & Sandeman and SWIG into the UK.  

See my report on Eric Chevalier following the 2010 Salon des Vins de Loire here.

Eric getting a sample of 2010 Chardonnay juice for us to taste

Eric Chevalier and his Fie Gris: February 2010

I first came across Eric Chevalier's wines in February last year at the Sauvignon Blanc Ambassadors' tasting in Tours with his Fie Gris (Sauvignon Rose). I tasted it again later on in the year and was again impressed, so I wanted to make sure that I met and tasted with him during the Salon.

Eric used to be employed by Vinival and Grands Chais de France, who bought Vinival in 2004. He was based in Montrichard, where he was in charge of the Touraine vinification facility. He had previously gained experience at Domaine Laroche (Chablis) and the Caves de la Loire (Brissac). In 2005 he decided to return to the Pays Nantais and take over the family vineyards, which he did in 2006. Based at Saint-Philbert-de-Grand-Lieu in Muscadet Côtes de Grand Lieu, he has 28 hectares of vines with a range of grape varieties planted. The principal varieties are: 12 hectares of Melon de Bourgogne, 5 of Chardonnay and 2.5 of Fie Gris. The rest is made up of Grolleau, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir and Gros Plant.

Eric made his name with the Fie Gris. The 2006, his first vintage, was picked up on by Patrick Sandeman of Lea & Sandeman (London, UK). Patrick entered it into the Top 100 Vins de Pays competition run by Off Licence News. It came top. Eric's US importer is Kermit Lynch.

Eric uses the natural yeasts. We started with the weighty and attractive 2009 Muscadet Côtes de Grand Lieu – its rich texture offset by mineral acidity and touch of bitterness in the finish. Then onto a minerally Chardonnay sur lie. The Chardonnay was planted by Eric's father who pulled out the Gros Plant formerly there. It will be bottled at Easter using exactly the same method used to bottle Muscadet.

The 2008 Chardonnay sur lie VDP Val de Loire, while less rich than 2009, has again a good mix of fruit texture and mineral acidity and again that touch of bitterness. Miles away from a heavy, oaky sweet Chardonnay. I suspect you see the influence of Eric's time at Laroche in Chablis here.

La Noë Muscadet Côtes de Grand Lieu comes from a parcel planted on granite. It has had vines there continuously since 1694. Unfortunately the parcel was hit by a hail storm on 7th May 2008 but the 2007, the first vintage the parcel was vinified separately, is quite aromatic with attractive weight. As is customary with 2007 there is more acidity and minerality.

Tasting the 2008 Fie Gris again I note that it is becoming increasingly spicy. Due to the April frost the yield was only 15-20 hl/ha. "It's good with olives," remarks Eric.

Eric's 2009s are looking good including Le Clos de la Butte – a new Muscadet cuvée – and La Noë. Many have that characteristic touch of bitterness, which adds interest to the wines. "Producers try to get rid of bitterness," says Eric, "but this is a mistake as it is one of the taste sensations."

Eric also makes a rosé from Pinot Noir – the apero style 2009 is soft and easy drinking. The red 2009 Pinot Noir with severe tannins is less successful as Eric readily admits. "This is not an area for reds."

Next thing I have to do is to go and see Eric in Saint-Philbert.

 Jacky Preys: late September 2009

Excellent post here on Cory Cartwright's Saignée blog about the diversity of wine and the threats to this diversity by large scale, global branding. It has already been widely picked up most notably probably on Eric Asimov's The Pour. Towards the end of the post Cory expresses some cautious optimism that people are now looking for variety and he cites the work of producers like the Puzelat brothers, Les Foucault, Jacky Preys, François Cazin etc. There are other that can be added such as Pascal Potaire with Menu Pineau and Eric Chevalier following on from Jacky Preys with his Fie Gris.    

Some photos from today's Salon with reports to be written as soon as I have some time!

 

It's either Fernando Torres or Damien Delecheneau (La Grange Tiphaine)

Eric Chevalier and his Fie Gris  

 

Sébastien Brunet (Vouvray) 

 

Ingrid Pinon (GAEC Michel et Damien Pinon) 

 

Jean-Christophe Manard (Mareuil, Touraine)

 

Flower arrangement in Salon 

22nd September 2009

Rather forgot that I hadn't posted a note on Eric Chevalier's 2008 Fié Gris that at tasted at the stand of Swig Wines Ltd at the Boutique Wineries tasting held in London on 22nd September 2009. The tasting was held at the headquarters of the BMA (British Medical Association), who rather ironically had recently issued a warning about the perils of drinking alcohol.

Given the theme was 'boutique wineries' you might anticipate that the Loire would have a strong showing. Not the case at all – just three wines: the Fié Gris and a Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé from Pascal Jolivet, which will be the suject of a separate post.

Eric's 2008 Fié Gris (also called Sauvignon Rose or Sauvignon Gris) VDP Val du Loire confirmed the good impression I had of this wine from the tasting of the Sauvignon Blanc Project wines in Tours in February 2009. It has delicious crisp, refined grassy and gooseberry fruit, good weight with an attractive touch of bitterness in the finish.

Available from Swig Wines Ltd (020-8996 2950) for £13.95 a bottle.

See mention of Eric Chevalier here.

King Roan: John Livingstone-Learmonth

Keen readers of Jim's Loire will doubtless remember JLL's magisterial analysis in September 2009 of The Bunch, a small and increasingly select group of UK independent wine merchants. Then down to just five members, JLL ran the form book over possible contenders to become the sixth member of The Bunch. London merchants, Lea & Sandeman, received the shortest odds, so it should be no surprise that just a few months later they did indeed join The Bunch.

Not only do Lea & Sandeman take the sixth plinth but Charles Lea brings considerable height to shore up the defence of UK independent wine merchants. Lea & Sandeman has a relatively short list of Loire wines, although well chosen. Growers/estates listed include Domaine Joël Delaunay, Jean Michel-Sorbe (Reuilly), Claude and Joëlle Papin (Château Pierre-Bise), Yannick Amirault, Bernard Baudry, Château de Tracy and Eric Chevalier (Domaine de L'Aujardiere).

L2R: Patrick Sandeman, Jason Yapp, Alun Griffiths MW (BBR) and Charles Lea - bringing stature to The Bunch

L&S stock Chevalier's excellent Fie Gris but they are somewhat mistaken when they claim: 'Fié Gris (otherwise known as Sauvignon Gris) is an ancient Loire variety which had all but disappeared before young Eric Chevalier was asked to make a special Cuvée for the renowned Hotel Anne de Bretagne'. I'm sure Jacky Preys, who has a real claim to have saved the Fie Gris, would take issue with this statement. Furthermore, although Fie Gris remains rare, there are also bottlings from Paul Buisse, Henri Bourgeois and perhaps others. To be fair to Eric Chevalier he doesn't make this claim. See here.

(Emboldening is my addition – Jim).

JLL's September 2009 formbook here.
Click here for John's Drink Rhone site

2006 Clos des Ronceveaux, Touraine Sauvignon

L’Exceptionnel de Paul Buisse, Saumur-Champigny 2003



You’ll find the Clos des Ronceveaux just above the cellars of Paul Buisse at the eastern end of Montrichard and facing south across the Cher Valley. The 2006 Clos des Ronceveaux, Touraine Sauvignon is 100% Fié Gris or Sauvivignon Rosé – also called Sauvignon Gris. Although a high quality variety, Sauvignon Rose is now rare having been pushed out by Sauvignon Blanc.

The Clos des Ronceveaux is vinified and aged in barriques for a year and has attractive rich fruit and delicate aromas of yellow plum. It is delicious now and should continue to be very drinkable for the next two or three years. When I visited Paul Buisse in early January, I tasted the 2007 Clos des Ronceveaux which at that stage was more influenced by the wood. If you have the 2006, I suggest you drink this vintage now and wait a year for the wood and the fruit of the 2007 to integrate properly.

Entrance to the Paul Buisse cellars in Montrichard. The Clos des Ronceveaux overlooks the cellars on top of the steep river cliff.

Sauvignon Rose is less aromatic than Sauvignon Blanc – no bad thing as far as I’m concerned especially if it avoids the catty reek of unripe Sauvignon. Its major problem is low yields, which explains why this long-time Sauvignon variant has given way to the more aromatic Blanc. However, Jim’s Loire has already covered the Fié Gris of Jackie Preys (jimsloire.blogspot.com/2009/03/domaine-jacky-preys-touraine-and.html) and the Sauvignon Rose from Eric Chevalier is one of the 2009 Loire Sauvignon Blanc Ambassadors. The Couillaud brothers of Château la Ragotière (La Regrippière, Pays Nantais) also have a Fie Gris in their experimental vineyard. Unfortunately Sauvignon Rose is not permitted in Sancerre, although it has probably long been planted there and a very good prestige cuvée from one of the appellation’s leading producers is 100% Sauvignon Gris/Rose.

It would be amazing if Sauvignon Rose ever makes a real comeback against Sauvignon Blanc. However, I do think there is now enough interest in exploring and rediscovering varieties other than those that are now planted around the world, which will ensure that varieties like Fié Gris/Sauvignon Rose and, I hope, Menu Pineau will now survive.




L’Exceptionnel de Paul Buisse, Saumur-Champigny 2003
L'Exceptionnel de Paul Buisse is the company's top of the range reds – Chinon, Bourgueil and Saumur-Champigny. Bought from good producers and matured in the Buisse cellars in Montrichard and overlooked by a tasting committee that includes oenologist, Anne Blain, and Pierre-Jacques Druet, now famous in Bourgueil but originally from Chissay-en-Touraine just four or five kilometres west of Montrichard. Despite this pedigree I have never been impressed with L'Exceptionnel wines. They tend to be clunky, lacking expression and vibrancy – dumb in a word and often dominated by tannin. L'Exceptionnel wines are aged in concrete and do not see any wood.

I opened this 2003 Saumur-Champigny on Tuesday evening and have tried it over the next three nights. On the first night it lacked vibrancy and the fruit was dumb. Interestingly it has improved over the past two days – during the day the bottle was kept stoppered in the fridge. This evening it showed best with much more vibrancy as well as freshness in the finish. Does the L'Exceptionnel need a little more air during its élévage – a little time in wood perhaps? Not to add wood flavours and tannins but to allow the wine to breathe?

Paul Buisse, 69 Route de Vierzon, 41202 Montrichard
Tel: 02.54.32.00.01
Email: contact@paul-buisse.com
Website: http://www.paul.buisse.com/