Eric Chevalier, Domaine de l'Aujardière, Saint-Philbert-de-Grand-Lieu

The southern sector of Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu around the communes of Corcoué-sur-Logne, La Limouzinière and Saint-Philbert-de-Grand-Lieu was hit by a hailstorm on Monday night. I understand that Eric Chevalier was unfortunately amongst the producers affected.

As well as Muscadet this sector also produces vin de pays. The damage wrought by the hail has brought the harvest for the white grapes forward by about a week with picking starting this week. Unfortunately as the red grapes are not yet ripe, it is not possible to pick them now. Instead just hope that the damaged grapes do not turn rotten.    

More details here.

Eric Chevalier during the 2010 vintage

I'm delighted to announce that Eric Chevalier has been chosen as the Loire vigneron for Stage 3 of this year's Tour de France.

Today's stage starts in Olonne-sur-Mer and heads northwards avoiding the coast, which featured on Saturday's opening stage. As reported yesterday the route passes the winery of Thierry Michon (Domaine de Saint Nicolas). It then heads north east – ducking to the east of Challans – on a level to Nantes before heading north west towards Le Pont de Saint-Nazaire to cross La Loire and the race's entry into Brittany. It finishes at Redon.

As the race heads north west to La Loire it will pass through the small town of Saint-Philbert-de-Grand-Lieu. The talented Eric Chevalier is based just a few kilometres to the south of Saint-Philbert at the little hamlet of L'Aujardière. Eric's winery is just off the D70 used by the race but I am sure that he will be able to set up a table on the main road to allow the passing riders to sample his fine Fié Gris (Sauvignon Rose/Sauvignon Gris) and his equally good Muscadet Côtes de Grand Lieu. With the intermediate sprint at Saint-Hilaire-de-Chaléons some 20 kilometres further on I'm sure a glass of either would be an ideal preparation!

My guess – not a very difficult one! – is that this stage will end in a sprint. It would be good to see Mark Cavendish open his account for the 2011 Tour here.

Fié Gris: the wine that made Eric famous

2009 La Noë, Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu, Eric Chevalier, Domaine de l'Aujardière

A look at two more recently tasted 2009 Muscadets – one (Eric Chevalier) from the Salon des Vins de Loire and the other (Alexis Sauvion) kindly sent as a sample.

First up La Noë from a parcel that records show was first planted in 1694 (white grapes). This is 15 years before the extraordinarily severe winter of 1709, which is said to have persuaded produces that the Melon de Bourgogne was the right grape variety here because it resisted the prolonged cold. The La Noë vineyard is on granite with very little soil. Eric Chevalier is best known for his Fie Gris but his Muscadets are also impressive. The 2009 La Noë has buttery weight balanced by a good mineral grip in the long finish.

2009 Climat, Muscadet, Alexis Sauvion, Château de la Fessardière, Vallet

Alexis Sauvion is an organic Muscadet producer in Vallet  with 27 hectares of vines. They also make a range of jams and jellies – see here. I first tried the 2009 Climat back in June 2010 (see post). It has taken on more weight since then but although it is well made it still lacks the complexity and mineral excitement of top Muscadet. Estelle Sauvion had recommended that I tried it on several occasions, which I did. Perhaps I should have put it into a carafe.