Christophe Daviau (Domaine de Bablut, Brissac-Quincé)

Christophe (5.9.11): "We started picking our Chardonnay for the Crémant today. Later this week we'll pick the Sauvignon and the Grolleau. The Grolleau is around 11% potential alc. and part will be used for the Rosé de Loire and part for Topette (Christophe's fresh, easy drinking red closed with a screwcap). The Sauvignon is at around 12.4% potential alcohol with 5.2-5.4 acidity. Then early next week we'll pick the Chenin and Cabernet Franc for the Crémant.  

"It has been a really bizarre year with a lot of rain during the early part of the winter until January and then very dry after that until July. Hot and summery in April, May and the early part of June. Cold and unsettled in July and August with the occasional heat spike, especially around 18th-22nd August.

"There's no panic to pick – it is only early September. We'll pick the early varieties and then wait for the Chenin, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon for the still wines. The Chenin and the Cabernet Sauvignon are looking good, while the Cabernet Franc (on limestone for Petra Alba) is more complicated. The flowering was very drawn out and the last Franc berries only changed colour at the end of August. I will wait until the Franc is really ripe – end of September beginning of October. Planted on limestone Franc resists rain weather as the limestone acts as a sponge and the grapes don't take up the rainwater." 

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Christophe's Coteaux de l'Aubance was recently selected by Biocoop – see video here. 

 

Opened a bottle of Aynard and Isabelle Clemont Tonnerre's 2009 Les Chaffines, AC Touraine. This is 100% Sauvignon Blanc and has mouthfilling texture and the typical richness of 2009 – more tropical fruit than grassy and gooseberry. It lacks a little bit of freshness in the finish, so is a better food wine than apéritif.

On our return to London Sunday evening we drank the Clos du Porteau's PetNat – a fun wine made from 80% Gamay and 20% Grolleau with an attractive mid-pink colour and 8% alcohol, so there is some residual sweetness. I should have taken a photo of a glass of his PetNat but the wine had been drunk by the time I remembered my camera!   

Duchesse de Clemont Tonnere

Aynard and Isabelle Clermont Tonnerre, Clos du Porteau 

News yesterday that the PetNat of the Clos du Porteau (AC Touraine) has fallen foul of France's byzantine wine laws with their Red PetNat, a new product. A blend of Gamay and Grolleau it has a fashionably low level of alcohol – 8.5%. It appears to correspond to a demand in the UK market as Aynard and Isabelle de Clermont Tonnerre, owners of the Clos, have orders for it from Waitrose and Harrods. 

Unfortunately the UK importers needed to check this new product out with the UK wine authorities before it could be imported. The query was referred to the French authorities who spent some time considering whether it was a product that could be sold. Unfortunately Aynard and Isabelle were informed by magnificently bureaucratic fax on Monday (31st May) sent by tperson responsible for le Pôle Concurrence of the Consommation et Répression des Fraudes that their PetNat could not be sold either in France or anywhere else. The family could either drink all the 3000 bottles made (vive la modération!) or it could be turned into wine vinegar or distilled.

Le Clos du Porteau PetNat, which is a VMQTA (vin mousseux de qualité de type aromatique) falls foul of the French rules on several counts: it contains Grolleau; it has 8.4% alc and has 7.3 bar.* Grolleau is not on the list of grape varieties permitted for VMQTA. Unless it is an appellation d'origine protegée, the level of alcohol has to be a minimum of 9.5%. Also for a pétillant the pressure must be between 1 and 2.5 bars.

The fax concluded thus:

'En conséquence, comme <<tout vin élaboré à partir des variéties à raisins de cuve visées dans les classements établis en application de l'article 120 bis, paragraphe 2, premier alinéa, mais n'entrant dans aucune des catégories établies à l'annexe XI ter >>, le produit dénommé <>, ne pourra être <> (art. 113, quinquies, 3 du RCE 1234/2007, modifié par le RCE 491/2009).'

The Clos du Porteau has been promised a visit from agents of the Répression des Fraudes to ensure that this decision is respected.

* 7.3 bar seems to be very high not sure how you would bet a PetNat up to this pressure.