2007 Sancerre, Henry Natter

Crisp, grapefruit quite austere and very much in the 2007 style – très droit en Français. very refreshing, especially on a hot day.




2008 Les Perrières, Saumur, Domaine de Saint-Just
Clean and lemony, 100% Chenin Blanc that sees no wood. May take more weight with age. Would be a good match with a plateau de fruits de mer.



2006 Saumur-Champigny, Château de Villeneuve
Herbal, soft Saumur-Champigny with good concentration for Jean-Pierre's domaine wine. Delicious – one of those bottles that disappear with startling rapidity.

Family dinner for eight starting with Jacky’s Blot’s 2000 Extra Brut Millésimé La Taille aux Loups – nicely rounded out and developed from its additional time in bottle – some toastiness and a hint of honey.

The 2007 Château du Cléray Muscadet Sèvre et Maine was brilliant with the first course of prawns having both weight and freshness but without sharp acidity. There was some surprise that Muscadet can be this good. The 2007 can clearly be drunk with pleasure now but should happily last for a good five years.

A magnum of the 2006 Expression de Cécile Sancerre Rouge from Henry Natter was perfect with the baked salmon trout – the wine’s soft red fruits being a fine foil to the trout’s quite delicate flesh. An illustration of how good a medium-bodied Sancerre red can be with some fish.

Then with the Tarte de Cambrai made with pears following the recipe in Jane Grigson’s Fruit Book, we finished off the 1990 Vouvray Moelleux Cuvée des Deronnières from Pascal Delaleu Domaine de la Galinière in Vernou.

2001 Cuvée Prestige L’ Arpenty Chinon Francis & Françoise Desbourdes
Francis and Françoise are one of several wine-making Desbourdes in the village of Panzoult – a wonderful name and so Rabelaisian! Panzoult is effectively the eastern end of the Chinon appellation. Although there are a few villages further to the east that are within the appellation, I have yet to come across any significant growers there.

Certainly this is fully mature – a hint bricky and some mid-weight evolved, delicate fruit. Unlikely to improve further and best drunk within the next year.

UK importer: Yapp Brothers



Two Sancerre whites from Henry Natter (Montigny)
2007 Sancerre
2006 Cuvée François de la Grange de Montigny

Fascinating contrast of vintages here – the 2007 domaine all zippy, zesty, citric and mineral while the 2006 is more concentrated and powerful – more yellow plum than the citric fruits that are often characteristic of Sancerre. Admittedly the Cuvée François is from old vines and has more bottle age, even so there are marked differences between the two vintages. 2007 domaine makes an ideal aperitif, while the 2006 Cuvée François is best with food – many types of fish and most chicken dishes.


Web: www.henrynatter.com





1989 Coteaux de Saumur, Domaine de Val Brun
Lovely sweet wine from this great vintage and made at a time when Eric Charruau was taking over from his dad, Jean-Pierre. Also at a time when the Coteaux de Saumur appellation was being revived. Attractive, vibrant mid-gold colour with a fine balance of rich citric fruit including orange peel. Coteaux de Saumur is often in the citric register rather than the honey and apricot found in the Coteaux du Layon. Best sipped on its own or with some Stilton. Not had the best storage conditions but should be good for at least another 10 years, longer if stored in ideal conditions.

Web: www.valbrun.com