Fabrice Leglatin (overall winner) with MarcVanhellemont 


 The three winners (L-R: Olivier, Fabrice and David plus chief judge Marc Vanhellemont) pose

The three prizes for the 2011 edition of the Loire Wine Bloggers' Trophy (promoted by InterLoire) were presented at a brief ceremony at the Salon des Vins de Loire on Monday 31st January. Congratulations to the three winners: Fabrice Leglatin (Vinsurvin), David Cobbold (morethanjustwine) and Olivier Lebaron (terredevins). 

 
Overall winner: Fabrice Leglatin – seeking inspiration?

Catégorie « Dégustation Loire »

Fabrice LEGLATIN

Blog : Vinsurvin

Post : http://vinsurvin-blog.com/?p=6996

î 1^er  

 

 while David Cobbold may have found inspiration...

Catégorie « Destination Loire »

David COBBOLD

Blog: More than Just Wine

Post : http://morethanjustwine.blogspot.com/2011/01/down-loire-to-nantes.html

î 2ème

Olivier Lebaron

 

Catégorie « Rencontre Loire »

Olivier LEBARON

Blog: Showviniste

Post : http://terredevins.com/blogs/showviniste/les-vins-naturels/la-loire-reve-de-lunotte-vin-naturel-de-touraine/î 3ème

Anne-Sophie Lerouge (InterLoire) introducing the awards

Marc Vanhellemont introduces the overall winner

Benôit Tarlant (Champagne blogger) with Fabrice

The awards attracted the world's press (above and below)

Miss Vicky Wine

 

Jean-Martin Dutour

While tasting at Baudry-Dutour I asked Jean-Martin Dutour whether there had been any communication with the producers of Bourgueil since his recent election to president of InterLoire. Bourgueil has recently left Interloire to go their own way. There hasn't been any contact and I rather gather that the feeling is that Bourgueil is being left to discover how feasible, in particular the level of what additional costs there are, it is to promote themselves without the aid of a body like InterLoire, covering the region from Nantes to eastern Touraine.

We discussed in some detail the tricky question du jour – who has precedence: Jean Martin Dutour as president of InterLoire or his business partner Christophe Baudry, maire of Cravant-les-Coteaux since March 2008. Initially Jean-Martin thought it was Christophe as he was chosen by the electors (some 300-400) of Cravant. However, Sylvine Teston, the export director, pointed out that Jean-Martin had been elected by some 1400 producers. Clearly further reflection is required before a ruling can be made on this tricky question of etiquette. In the meantime I will have to decide who to greet first when I see them at the Salon des Vins de Loire.

Baudy-Dutour's screwcapped Chinon Blanc

We also discussed the advantages of using screwcaps on both aromatic whites, typified by Sauvignon Blanc, and less aromatic but often delicate whites such as Muscadet or Chenin Blanc. Baudry-Dutour screwcap their stainless steel fermented Chinon Blanc for export markets but use a cork for France because French sommeliers continue to oppose screwcaps. Jean-Martin is convinced that screwcaps are the best closure for this type of white. It appears that the sommeliers oppose screwcaps because it does away with the ceremony involved in wielding a corkscrew when opening a bottle and that once this is done away with their role will appear redundant.

Of course any sommelier who thinks that their only role is to remove the cork from a bottle is a complete waste of space. The real and most useful role of a sommelier isto offer advice to their customers to help them choose a wine that they will enjoy, that will match/complement the food they are having and is at a price they can afford.

Jean-Martin says that once they explain to their private customers the benefits of screwcapping wines, they have no problem buying wines closed with screwcaps. If this is the way a large number of Loire producers think, then it is long time for them to stand up and have the balls make a statement just as the Riesling producers of Clare did in 2000 and the New Zealanders did the following year. Get together, bottle your wines under screwcap, explain to the media why you are doing this and I fancy the sommeliers' opposition will melt away. But it has to be a concerted effort.

Something for the new president of InterLoire to add to his agenda?

PS: See also a post by my fellow Cinq du Vin, Hervé Lalau here. 

Jean-Martin Dutour in front of the Baudry-Dutour winery@Panzoult

42-year-old Jean-Martin Dutour (Baudry-Dutour) was elected the new president of Inter-Loire yesterday for a three year term at the organisation's AGM. Jean-Martin takes over from Patrice Laurendeau (Anjou). Jean-Martin is taking on a tough job as relations between the Loire négoce and the producers continue to be very poor. Last year the producers of Bourgueil signalled their determination to leave Interloire, the promotional body for producers in the Pays Nantais, Anjou-Saumur and Touraine.

With 120 hectares Baudry-Dutour is the largest individual producer in Chinon and is both a grower and a négociant. Jean-Martin will need considerable diplomatic skills if progress is to be made before Interloire's next general assembly in June 2011.
 

Christophe Baudry with proof that he is the maire of Cravant-les-Coteaux

Should he need advice Jean-Martin is fortunate that he has ready access to the Maire of Cravant-les-Coteaux – his business partner, Christophe Baudry. 

Already there is speculation that one of them may be a candidate for the 2017 French Presidential elections.  

See also article in today's La Nouvelle République.

 

Press release from InterLoire:
InterLoire, l’Interprofession des vins de Loire, confirme son engagement en matière de développement de l’oenotourisme avec le lancement de la première application iPhone® dédiée à cette thématique.

Organiser son séjour, trouver un hébergement au coeur des vignes, géolocaliser une Cave touristique du vignoble de Loire® à proximité, participer à une randonnée gourmande, partager ses souvenirs avec ses amis, toute l’offre du Val de Loire est à portée de main.

Pour fêter ce lancement, InterLoire a imaginé un jeu qui permettra aux participants de gagner de nombreux cadeaux.

Que vous ayez un profil classique, celui d’un épicurien, d’un expert ou d’un explorateur (selon une étude sur les clientèles oenotouristiques françaises dévoilée en juin dernier), découvrez en avant première l’application gratuite vinsdeloire.app en cliquant sur le lien suivant : www.vinsdeloire.fr/mobilite/iphone.html

2008 vintage: Pierre Luneau with some of Melon de Bourgogne that survived the frost

 Presse Océan reports on a campaign by Interloire that will run in June to try to recapture the shelf space Muscadet lost because of the lack of stock and price rises following the early April frost that cut production by around 60-70%. The relaunch will be called Planète muscadet and will cost 500,000 € in total. The campaign will involve radio, the internet, wine stores and restaurants. 

'L'interprofession lance l'opération Planète muscadet pour sortir le Vignoble nantais de l'ornière.

Animations dans les points de vente. Campagne de communication radio. Grand jeu concours. Trois points pour résumer le plan de relance commerciale du muscadet mis sur pied par InterLoire. L'opération, imaginée par l'ensemble de la filière, est baptisée Planète muscadet. Elle vise à redonner un coup de fouet au marché particulièrement chamboulé après le gel du Vignoble nantais au printemps 2008.'

Lire la suite

See also previous post on Muscadet's loss of market following the April 2008 frost.

*

Also in Presse Océan a video of a section of the new Pont Eric Tabarly being towed by a barge down the Loire in the centre of Nantes this morning.

François Chidaine: August 2008 at La Cave Insolite, Montlouis

In between late minute Christmas shopping I have managed to speak to François Audebert (Bourgueil) and to François Chidaine about Interloire's AGM in Nantes on Tuesday. Neither conversation was exactly festive – instead depressing with a palpable sense of the crisis and a growing schism between producers and the négoce. Of course having spoken to just two producers their views may not be fully representative but I suspect that their views would be echoed by a substantial number of Loire producers.
(Over the next few days I hope to add views from more producers and also from the négoce. I also, of course, welcome comments.)

François Audebert
I started by asking François what had happened at the AGM.

François A: Not a great deal. It was accepted with regret that Bourgueil would leaving Interloire at the end of 2010. The atmosphere are meeting was all rather morose. The négoce pushed through the single rate of cotisation (subscription) to Interloire, which will be 4€ per hectolitre. Previously there had been 24 different levels with appellations fixing the amount. 24 was clearly too much but I would have preferred three different levels.

Jim: Do you think there will be a chance a reaching an accommodation during 2010 that will allow Bourgueil to remain within Interloire?

François A: I think it will very difficult. There appears to be incomprehension of our position and concerns by the négoce and I'm not sure that it is possible to have meaningful discussions anymore. Bourgueil has voted to increase its cotisation by adding 3.50€ to the current rate of 1.70€ a hectolitre – a total of 5.20€. This increase will be used for our public relations activities. A number of other appellations, such as Chinon and Vouvray, have voted an increase to their cotisations with the extra going to the syndicat.

We then discussed the proposal to make the Salon des Vins de Loire biannual, which is a consequence of reducing Interloire's budget for the Salon. Although the Salon is run by Expo-Park, Angers, Interloire provides an important part of the budget.

François A: The Salon is very important for the producers. The proposal to reduce the budget and hold the Salon every two years is a direct attack by the négoce on us. The Salon is crucial for us both to meet international buyers but also people from our home market – wholesalers, agents, cavistes, restaurateurs etc. Many people come to the Salon to taste the latest vintage, so it needs to be held every year – not every two years.

•

François Chidaine
We talked about the AGM but also about the conflict between the producers and the négociants.

Francois C: Our level of cotisation has been cut from 5.5€ per hectolitre down to 4€. The négociants do not believe in promoting appellations. They just want to promote La Loire and to concentrate on selling low priced wine. Because of much of the former Loire négociants have been bought up by the big groups, there is no longer competition. The négociants are concerned with their margins. This means that producers supplying the négoce cannot survive commercially and some are now giving up.

Producers in Touraine do not agree with this approach – our objectives are not the same. We are in a different position in Touraine as we are not bound to the négociants as in the case for producers in Anjou and in Muscadet. Producers in Touraine are very attached to their appellations. Increasingly we will see funds from vignerons being transferred to their syndicats. The relationship between the producers and the négoce is broken.

Jim: Do you think that the relationship can be repaired?

François C: We will see but things may well have gone too far – there is a lot of bitterness. It is very unfortunate because in the current crisis we should all be working together. But for the producers to do nothing in the current situation is not an option. We have to react – we have to save viticulture for the next generation.

(NB: Other views to come.)

Although Interloire's 2009 AGM looked potentially fractious, it would appear that on the day not a great deal of blood was spilled. The proposed budget was accepted by both the négoce and the producers. It is, however, clear from the press release from Interloire (see below in particular the highlighted text) that the tensions that exist between the producers and the négociants have not yet been eased. The level of subscriptions to Interloire is of particular concern. There will be discussions with the appellations during 2010 to try and resolve this problem.

'Communiqué de presse Le 23 décembre 2009
Assemblée Générale d’Interloire Du 22/12/2009

Avec un vote du budget à l’unanimité des collèges, la dynamisation des marchés et le dialogue au sein de la filière seront les principes directeurs pour 2010.

InterLoire, Interprofession des Vins de Loire, s’est réunie en Assemblée Générale le 22 décembre 2009, afin de voter, notamment, le budget 2010. L’ensemble des membres de l’Assemblée Générale était présent ou représenté. InterLoire avait également invité les présidents des appellations dont plusieurs ont pu participer aux débats.

Dans ce cadre, les élus d’InterLoire ont fait le point sur la situation économique des appellations du ressort de l’association. Après une campagne 2008/2009 qui a montré une commercialisation dynamique, malgré plusieurs récoltes successives faibles et des stocks historiquement bas, le début de la campagne 2009/2010 établit un record au niveau des achats de vendanges fraîches avec 362.000 hl achetés (+ 69 %).

En France, les vins de Loire bénéficient d’une demande soutenue, notamment en grande distribution où un certain nombre d’appellations a suivi en 2009 une tendance positive (touraine blanc + 16 %, bourgueil + 3 %, saint-nicolas-de-bourgueil + 7 %), malgré un manque de disponibilités dû aux faibles récoltes pour des appellations significatives sur ce circuit (cabernet d’anjou et muscadet notamment). À l’export, qui représente 14 % de leur commercialisation, les vins de Loire souffrent à l’instar des autres vins de France. Lors de cette Assemblée Générale, les élus ont voté à l’unanimité des deux collèges, viticulture et négoce, le budget présenté.

En présentant un budget de dépenses globales de 10.305 K€ pour 8.883 K€ de recettes de cotisations interprofessionnelles, InterLoire mobilise une partie de ses réserves afin de dynamiser les marchés français et export. Valoriser le vignoble par le développement de la notoriété et de l’image de ses appellations et soutenir les ventes de l’ensemble de ses metteurs en marché sont les deux axes stratégiques pour 2010.

En France, les moyens seront concentrés sur la mise en avant de ses appellations sur les points de vente, à travers une campagne d’information et de promotion, et accompagnée d’une large campagne media, relations presse et relations publiques et le développement du tourisme viticole.

À l’export, l’interprofession mettra en œuvre l’année II de son programme publi-promotionnel sur les pays tiers (USA, Russie, Chine et Japon) en collaboration avec les vins du Centre et renforcera ses activités sur le cœur du marché européen qui constitue près de 70 % de ses ventes à l’export (UK, Belgique, Pays-Bas, Allemagne). InterLoire et les vins du Centre testeront également une approche au Canada.

Sur le plan technique et qualité, InterLoire poursuivra le soutien au développement et à la recherche expérimentale, et portera une attention particulière au transfert d’informations.

L’Assemblée Générale a également voté un budget significatif au profit de Vin et Société, démontrant sa volonté d’unir ses forces avec l’ensemble de la filière pour la défense de la place du vin et de ses hommes dans la société française.

Par ailleurs, l’Assemblée Générale a pris acte, avec regret, de la décision de Bourgueil de quitter InterLoire, conformément aux statuts, à compter du 31/12/2010.

Le Président Patrice Laurendeau*, approuvé par les membres de l’Assemblée Générale, a souhaité cependant que 2010 soit mis à profit pour intensifier le dialogue avec les appellations, dont certaines ont manifesté leurs désaccords avec des orientations de l’Interprofession, notamment en matière de niveau de cotisation interprofessionnelle.

Un Conseil Exécutif exceptionnel, réuni préalablement à l’Assemblée Générale, avait d’ailleurs souligné que l’interprofession avait vocation à rassembler et non à diviser. 2010 sera donc une année de dialogue et de concertation.'

* Domaine de Terrebrune, Notre Dame d’Alençon, Anjou

Some reactions to the AGM to be posted shortly.

A press release 'Les vins de Loire sous une même bannière de Nantes jusqu'à Blois' from Interloire issued during 2007 announcing the expansion of Interloire to include the Nantes' vineyards unwittingly highlighted the origins of the current conflict within Interloire.

Here are two crucial quotes from the release:

'Dès janvier 2008, elle lancera une nouvelle campagne de communication, confiée à l’agence Jump, mettant en avant la Loire, afin de valoriser son image d’entité viticole.'

(From January 2008 a new publicity campaign will be launched by the Jump agency that will concentrate on the Loire promoting its image as a wine producing region.)

•

‘De la même façon, la fusion renforcera l’importance du négoce qui assure à lui seul 60 % de la mise en marché des vins, contre 25 % pour les vignerons et 15 % pour les caves coopératives, alors que la commercialisation, au sein de l’interprofession Anjou-Touraine, était également répartie entre négoce et producteurs.’

(The merger reinforces the importance of the négociants who will now account for 60% of sales, compared to 25% for the vignerons and 15% for the cave co-operatives. When Interloire just covered Anjou-Touraine sales were equally split between the négoce and the producers.)

The négoce has always been strong in the Pays Nantais so it was inevitable that when the Vins de Nantes merged with Interloire that the balance of power between the négoce and the producers would shift to being massively in favour of the négoce. The potential for conflict was there allied with the decision to promote an image of the Loire as Brand Loire to copy the Brand Australia approach that has until recently worked so well for Australia. The fact that the Loire's two largest négociants are now pan-France companies with their headquarters in Alsace (Grands Chais de France) and Bordeaux (Castel Frères) may not have helped.

Two years on from the merger the tensions have become evident. Can the two sides find an accommodation? Or will the producers continue to feel marginalised and railroaded by the négociants? It is worth remembering that, although the négociants sell much the greater volume of wine, it is the top Loire producers who raise the region's reputation. Currently the Loire has much going for it – a series of good vintages, especially the very promising 2009; an often high reputation for interesting wines at reasonable prices; and, if wine drinkers around the world really are looking for lower alcohol wines that are food friendly, then the Loire is one of the few wine producing regions that can and does deliver such wines.

Interloire's AGM will be held in Nantes on 22nd December – malgré le météo sera une reunion chaud! Time for accommodation and compromise, I trust.

See earlier posting on Bourgueil's UDI here and here.

••

Today's edition of La Nouvelle République covers the recent vote by Bourgueil to quit Interloire as well as a report that the budget for the Salon des Vins de Loire has been cut on the insistence of the négoce so that this popular hitherto annual Salon will in future become bi-annual.

Grape sign@Bourgueil

Jim's Loire understands that the appellation of Bourgueil has recently voted overwhelmingly (apparently it was 92% for the motion to quit) to leave Interloire, the promotional body that covers the Loire vineyards from the Pays Nantais through to Touraine.

As this is breaking news I haven't been able to find out what has led to the apparent disenchantment of the Bourgueil producers with Interloire. It would seem, however, there is a feeling in some quarters that Interloire has become too big and distant. It is also rumoured that some in Chinon may be contemplating a similar vote. (11.12.09: Having talked this morning to Jacques Couly (Couly-Dutheil) and Jean-Martin Dutour (Baudry-Dutour) this is not the case. Chinon I'm told will be remaining with Interloire as I understand will Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil.)

Whatever the imperfections Interloire may or may not have, Bourgueil needs to be part of a promotional organisation if it wants to be able to promote its wines effectively on the export market. Being part of Interloire has enabled some of its producers to be part of the Cabernet Franc project. A vote for independence may well make sense in the cafés of Port Boulet and Restigné, it is all too likely to look like a quaint rerun of Clochemerle in London, New York and Shanghai.

More to be added when I have more details. See here.

* UDI: Unilateral declaration of independence

2008 harvest in the Loire: good quality but small quantity

Interesting article by Michel Embareck (see extracts below) in today’s Nouvelle Republique on the upward price pressures on Touraine wines. Interloire predicts that the cost of production will rise by 25% between 2005 and 2011 with labour up by 12% and the cost of bottles and capsules up by 22%. However, the small price rises in the French supermarkets have not fully reflected these increased costs. After the short 2007 and 2008 vintages the same price pressures apply throughout the Loire, especially in Muscadet.

The problem is that retailers – certainly the UK supermarkets in these tough economic times – are desperate to keep prices as they are, even with some companies trying to get their suppliers to absorb rises in UK duty. I can imagine that there will be some interesting discussions between producers and their customers at next week’s Salon des Vins de Loire. Something will have to give – but who will blink first?

Providing the rises are reasonable and not excessive, then I hope it will be the UK retailers. It is long time that the UK wine drinker understood that it is more expensive to produce good wine than mediocre. Reducing yields and looking after vineyards properly is expensive – someone has to be paid to debud, deleaf, cut off the rotten grapes prior to harvest if necessary etc. Equally picking by hand or buying the latest machine harvester and equipment to handle the fruit as gently as possible is expensive. Producers have to make a living and have enough to continue to invest in their businesses. Screwing producers into the ground may give retailers a short-term gain but is a medium and long-term disaster and a potential recipe for fraud.


‘La hausse logique des vins de Touraine
Viticultrice à la Chapinière dans le Loir-et-Cher où elle produit un AOC Touraine, Florence Veilex explique: “qu'en 2008, le verre a augmenté de 17 %, les produits phytosanitaires de 10 % et que depuis environ 4 ans, les prix de vente des vins de Loire en général avaient stagné ou baissé. Il s'agit donc d'un rééquilibrage.”

‘A Interloire, Anne-Sophie Lerouge et Fanny Gilet fournissent des explications plus détaillées. “Selon nos observations et projections, l'augmentation des coûts de production sera de + 25 % entre 2005 et 2011. Le coût moyen d'une bouteille produite par un domaine vinicole local est de 3,41 €, mais il peut aller du simple au triple selon les méthodes de vinification et la taille de l'exploitation.”

‘Toujours selon les mêmes données, la main-d'œuvre prendra + 12 % entre 2005 et 2011, les bouteilles, capsules et bouchons + 22 % alors que les faibles rendements de 2007 et 2008 ont entraîné une perte de production de – 20 % en Indre-et-Loire.

D'après les relevés effectués par Interloire. “La hausse en hypermarché demeure assez faible. Entre 2007 et 2008, le bourgueil a augmenté de + 2,5 %, le saint-nicolas de + 4,8 %, le chinon de + 3 %, le vouvray bulles de + 2 % et le montlouis de + 3 %. Et encore, les coûts de production et de main-d'œuvre n'ont pas été intégralement répercutés sur les prix de vente.”