Yves Guegniard with his Cabernet Sauvignon

Thursday 29th September was another very hot and virtually cloudless day in Anjou with temperatures reaching 32C in Saint-Aubin in the early afternoon. Even at 6pm it was still 30C in Brissac-Quincé. Many producers have spoken of how delighted and surprised they are by the change in the weather over the last ten days, which has transformed the outlook and potential of the 2011 vintage.

Cabernet Franc destined for Anjou Village Brissac at Domaine de Fesle (Jacques Beaujeau, Château de Varière)

Jacques Beaujeau checking the alcohol degree of his Cabernet Franc

Alexandre Cady (Domaine Cady)

 

Philippe Cady

Golden label ... golden wine

Decided that we could do with a warming apéro this evening (yes I know Bob that the UK is still hot compared to Alberta but all things are relatives), so selected the single vineyard 2007 Les Melleresses, Bonnezeaux from Jacques and Anne Beaujeau's Château la Varière (37.5cl) . It underlines what a great sweet wine vintage 2007 is because it has such a thrilling balance of opulent fruit – very ripe peach and apricot and and zinging, mineral acidity. This is really a wine to sip on its won either before a meal or after. Worth considering serving it instead of a dessert.

Jacques Beaujeau

2002 Clos de la Division, Anjou Blanc, Château la Varière, Jacques Beaujeau

I always like revelations. I remember tasting Philippe Vatan's 1990 Saumur (Château de Hureau) for the first time sometime in the summer of 1991, I guess, and then shortly afterwards drinking it with Nigel Wilkinson of the RSJ Restaurant at the Hotel Anne d'Anjou in Saumur. Philippe's Saumur Blanc was a revelation because it showed what could be done with Chenin Blanc in Saumur. Subsequently I have tasted and drunk many impressive Saumur Blancs from a number of producers but Philippe's 1990 remains a key bottle. Sadly the last one I tried a couple of years ago was completely oxidised but that is beside the point as what was important was how it tasted back in 1991 and 1992.

Although Jacques Beaujeau's 2002 is not revelatory in the same way as Philippe's was as I have tasted, drunk and enjoyed too many fine Anjou Blancs over the years for the quality of this 2002 to be a surprise. Rather I hadn't realised that Jacques Beaujeau at Varière was producing such stunningly good Anjou Blanc. Of course 2002 is a particularly well balanced and attractive vintage but even so!

Vinfication in barrel gives added complexity. The 2002 is golden hued with ripe yellow plum and peach aromas, richly textured palate, lovely balance with delicate acidity. The acidity of a Saumur Blanc of the same age would almost certainly be more marked. The 2002 could easily be mistaken for a fine Alsace wine or a Meursault, perhaps. A good match with a free range chicken in a rich sauce. It worked well this evening with chicken in a spicy coconut sauce. Proof that Anjou Blanc can be very fine and not expensive!