Showing posts with label Jean-Christophe Mandard. Show all posts

2010 Vendange in the Cher – full speed ahead!


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Sauvignon  Blanc@Jacky Preys

Empyting a picking machine@Jean-François Merieau

This week has seen most Touraine producers start picking with some, like Vincent Ricard, accelerating following the heavy rain Thursday night/ early Friday morning.

This afternoon we had a quick drive round to see a number of producers – just dropping in to see how the harvest was progressing.


Joël Delaunay on his picking machine (La Tesnière, Pouillé)

Jean-Christophe Mandard (Mareuil) measuring the potential alcohol in his Sauvignon Blanc juice

Jacky  Preys (Meusnes) watching Sauvignon Blanc grapes being unloaded





Jean-Christophe Mandard: 2008 Gamay Vieilles Vignes, Touraine


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2008 Gamay Vieilles Vignes, Touraine, Vignoble du Haut Bagneux (Jean-Christophe Mandard)

On Thursday evening I thought it would be appropriate to open a bottle of Jean-Christophe Mandard's old vine Gamay to mark the return of electric power to the more isolated parts of the commune of Mareuil-sur-Cher. This Gamay from 65 year old vines has the concentration you would expect from old vines, so a Gamay needing food. The spicy black fruit worked well with lamb steaks, slightly less well with a magret de canard.

Jean-Christophe Mandard

I've tasted Jean-Christophe's wines (Vignoble du Haut Bagneux) on several occasion – his UK importers are Richards Walford and also the wines are listed by La Lionnière, Mareuil's ferme auberge, so I took the opportunity of tasting the reds during the Salon des Vins de Loire. (Given the range of Loire wines it is difficult to keep switching colours. I was on reds at the time and didn't have an opportunity to go back and taste the whites).

The Vignoble du Haut Bagneux has 21 hectares of vines with 10 different grape varieties planted including a parcel of 100 year-old Gamay de jus noir – a teinturier. (The vast majority of wine grapes have white flesh and includes all the top quality varieties. In the past teinturier varieties were used to give wines colour. Alicante Bouchet and Dornfelder are probably the best known today.) I must check with Jean-Christophe exactly which Gamay this is as there are apparently three different Gamay teinturiers – le Gamay de Bouze, le Gamay de Chaudenay and le Gamay Fréaux.

I started with the soft, easy drinking 2009 Gamay de Touraine that will be bottled this month made by carbonic maceration it had a hint of banana that can be typical of this fermentation process, especially if a particulr yeast has been used. Then the 2009 Cabernet – 60% Franc and 40% Sauvignon – with concentration, structure and quite marked blackcurrant notes. It will be bottled in April, whereas the soft and ripe Tradition – 50% Côt and 50% Cabernet Franc – will bottled in September.

Another domaine I need to visit. It will be interesting to taste the 2009 reds once they are in bottle.




La Lionnière, a dead vineyard and some interesting rainfall figures


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Very enjoyable dinner with friends at La Lionnière last night with the highlight being an excellent terrine made from a blend of the lamb, chicken and goat liver. The choice of main course was lamb or coq au champignons with the lamb being the better deal. A bottle of 2008 Gamay from the Clos Roche Blanche – good concentration, spice, certainly drinkable now but will be better in six months to a years time – started us off. Then we had a well made and attractive 2006 Cabernet from Jean-Christophe Mandard (Vignoble du Haut Bayneux). Someone else that I need to go and visit!

Sauvignon Blanc 2009

The La Lionnière farm is organic, which unfortunately is far from the case for the producer who owns the completely blitzed vineyard just to the north. Before sitting down to dinner I have a quick look at the vines. The grapes (probably Sauvignion Blanc) looked healthy enough apart from those being shrivel on a vine rapidly dying of Esca but the vineyard was a sad sight entirely devoid of any biodiversity.

Dying vine – grapes now shrivelling but shows how rapidly Esca (equally eutypoise) can kill a vine as it must have been reasonably healthy very recently for the grapes to be this far advanced

Dying vine – dead earth


Monoculture – only vines no other life here

Driving over to La Lionnière much of the pasture was brown showing how dry it has been recently. There are some interesting rainfall figures for 2005 to 2009 (June to August) on the Living the Life in St-Aignan blog. These are recorded by Ken Broadhurst and his partner Walt.

2009 is the driest year so far with just 76 mm (3.0 in) since the beginning of June, although we still a third of August to go. 2007 was easily the wettest with 230 mm (9.1 in). Contrary to popular belief 2008 was actually a dry summer – 112 mm compared to 119 mm (2005) and 124 mm (2006). I suspect it was the 2008 cold summer that makes people remember it as being wet.

Although we have had some hot days this August with temperatures up to 35˚C, it has been nothing like as hot as 2003 (around 40˚C). Nor has it been anything like as continuous and the nights have been much fresher – around 14˚/15˚C compared to staying over 20˚C.

Weather figures in Tours and elsewhere
Following on from Mark Robertson's comment, the Méteo-France figures show that it has hardly rained in Tours since 23rd July (1 mm recorded so far for August) and that July's total was just under 40 mm, some 12 mm below normal. June's rainfall at over 50 mm was above average but around 35 mm of that fell on Monday 8th June – a day of torrential rain. From 11th June virtually no rain fell for the rest of the month.

Not everywhere in the Region du Centre has been so dry – Chartres has had 7.4 mm, Orléans 7.2 mm, Bourges 14.6 mm, Châteauroux 11.6 mm, Nantes 17 mm (all in one day) and Beaucouze (near Angers) 5.4 mm.

Frédéric et Françoise Bouland, Ferme Auberge de la Lionnière.
1 rue de la lionnière, 41110 Mareuil sur Cher
Tel: 02 54 75 24 99
Email : fa-lionniere@wanadoo.fr

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