Showing posts with label Maison des Sancerre. Show all posts

Coteaux de Giennois: Caves Ouvertes (11-12 July) and Grande Dégustation (14 July)


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This weekend (11-12 July) 16 producers in the Coteaux de Giennois are holding a caves ouvertes and then to celebrate Bastille Day (the French Revolution of 1789) they are holding a Grande Dégustation in La Place de l'Hotel de Ville in Cosné-sur-Loire. Details and a list of the producers involved can be downloaded from here. Unfortunately the list misses out one producer involved: the Domaine de Fontaine at St Père is also open to visitors on those two days. Tél: 03.86.28.02.83.

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La Maison des Sancerre

The excellent Maison des Sancerre is holding its first exhibition called 1001 bottles, which runs from 30 May to 30 September:

Exposition 1001 Bouteilles

Pour la première fois, la Maison des Sancerre organise une exposition à l’échelle du vignoble. Cette exposition regroupe des céramistes de toute la France autour d’un seul thème : La bouteille. Pendant les quatre mois de la saison estivale, les œuvres d’un ou plusieurs céramistes sont à découvrir au gré des villages sancerrois, chez les vignerons participants. Un dépliant avec une carte recensant les caves et les céramistes est disponible à la MDS et dans les Offices de Tourisme locaux.

Du samedi 30 mai au mercredi 30 septembre
Vignoble de Sancerre
Renseignements à La Maison des Sancerre: 02.48.54.11.35

France to promote wine tourism


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The excellent Maison des Sancerre in the centre of the town and well worth visiting to learn more about the wine and its producers – a great example of intelligent wine tourism

The French Minister of Agriculture and Fishing, Michel Barnier, and Hervé Novelli, the Minister of Trade, have set up a body to promote wine tourism – Conseil Supérieur de l’OEnotourisme. The Conseil will be headed by Paul Dubrule, an ex-senator and a founding president of the Accor group.

The Conseil’s first tasks will include setting up ‘Vin et Patrimonie’ – identifying tourist circuits combining wine and local heritage; a Prix National de l’Oenotourisme to identify and reward good practice as well as schemes to improve training and ensuring that information is available to tourism operators etc.

Conseil Supérieur de l’OEnotourisme
Michel Barnier, ministre de l’agriculture et de la pêche et Hervé Novelli, secrétaire d’Etat chargé du commerce, de l’artisanat, des PME, du tourisme et des services ont installé mardi le conseil supérieur de l’oenotourisme, fédérant les principaux représentants de la viticulture et du tourisme.

Ce conseil supérieur est présidé par Paul Dubrule, co-président fondateur du groupe Accor, ancien sénateur-maire de Fontainebleau, qui avait rédigé en 2007, à la demande du Gouvernement, un rapport sur « L’OEnotourisme : une valorisation des produits et du patrimoine vitivinicoles ». Il concluait à la nécessité de rapprocher les acteurs du monde du vin à ceux du tourisme et même au patrimoine.

Dans son « Plan de modernisation de la filière vitivinicole française », adopté par le Gouvernement le 29 Mai 2008, le ministre de l’agriculture et de la pêche a inscrit l’objectif de « Développer l’oenotourisme, dans l’optique de créer des débouchés par une commercialisation directe, notamment des vignerons indépendants, mais aussi des coopératives, et renforcer l’attractivité des territoires ».

Le conseil supérieur de l’oenotourisme, structure légère et réactive, réunira l’ensemble des professionnels de la viticulture et du tourisme pour créer une dynamique collective permettant de développer et de valoriser l’oenotourisme en France.

Les Ministres ont proposé une feuille de route au Conseil, avec des premières priorités à mettre en oeuvre dans l’année:
1) Création d’un label « Vin et Patrimoine », afin d’identifier les circuits de découverte du vin ouverts au patrimoine et aux autres ressources de l’agrotourisme.
2) Mise en oeuvre d’un Prix National de l’oenotourisme, afin de récompenser les projets exemplaires déjà en place.
3) Réflexion dans le domaine de la formation, tant initiale que continue.
4) Actions pour une meilleure information des opérateurs.
5) Amélioration de la mise en réseau et publicité des opérations existantes.

Maison des Sancerre


In response, FIJEV (a world organisation of wine writers and journalists) has welcomed the move but also pointed out the contradiction between one part of the French government, who apparently seek to demonise wine, and another part that wants to promote wine tourism.

Communiqué FIJEV
La Fédération Internationale des Journalistes & Ecrivains du Vin (FIJEV) salue la mise en place du Conseil Supérieur de l’Œnotourisme, en France.

Installé cette semaine par les ministres de l’Agriculture et du Tourisme, sa présidence a été confiée à une personnalité de premier plan, M. Paul Dubrule, qualifiée à la fois dans le domaine du tourisme (il a créé le groupe Accor) et dans celui du vin, puisqu’il est lui-même propriétaire en vallée du Rhône. Ceci augure bien de son action.

La FIJEV est elle-même active dans le domaine de l’œnotourisme, puisqu’elle a créé l’an dernier, avec l’Association Nationale des Elus du Vin, le Prix René Renou, visant à récompenser la meilleure initiative œnotouristique d’une collectivité territoriale française.

Elle ne peut donc qu’applaudir tout effort en matière d’accueil des touristes au sein du vignoble, et plus généralement, tout ce qui contribue à renforcer la Culture du vin.

Toutefois, la FIJEV ne peut s’empêcher de pointer du doigt le paradoxe qui consiste, d’une part, à encourager les initiatives œnotouristiques (dont il serait logique d’attendre un minimum d’impact sur les ventes), et de l’autre à diaboliser le vin, au même titre que les autres boissons alcoolisées, dans le cadre du projet de loi Hôpital Patients, Santé et Territoires.

L’engagement, louable, des pouvoirs publics français en faveur de l’œnotourisme, ne peut constituer un «lot de consolation» pour un secteur choqué par les attaques dont il est l’objet.

En contrepoint aux projets hygiénistes, la FIJEV croit utile de rappeler les propos de Nicolas Sarkozy, tenus à Sancerre en février 2007, durant sa campagne présidentielle: «assimiler le vin au tabac ou à une drogue, c’est une erreur. »

Il serait donc de bonne politique de coordonner l’action de tous les ministères, afin d’encourager à une consommation raisonnable, via des projets d’éducation au vin, notamment. La presse généraliste et spécialisée a certainement un rôle à jouer dans ce domaine.

Some views of Sancerre


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Apart perhaps from some of the upper Loire vineyards like the Côte Roannaise and the Côtes de Forez, Sancerre is visually the Loire's most dramatic appellation. I hope to be back next for part of the 2008 vintage.


View towards Sancerre from cross above Chavignol: autumn 2007

View towards Sancerre from above Chavignol: autumn 2007

Hamlet of Champtin – west of Bué: summer 2008

Saint-Satur and Le Canal Latéral à la Loire – built between 1827 and 1838.
The canal runs from Briare to Digoin: autumn 2007


View from La Maison des Sancerre southwards
includes sight of the canal
: June 2006

The biodynamic Vacherons


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Jean-Laurent Vacheron: biodynamic vine cuddles!

(13 August 2008)
We spent our last morning in Sancerre with the Vacherons – Jean-Louis and son Jean-Dominique, Denis and son Jean-Laurent. I’m not sure why it isn’t Jean-Denis perhaps his parents decided that if everyone was called Jean it would be confusing but it does break the symmetry. Reminds me of when I was teaching in South London and, when arranging the classes, I put all the Jasons, then a popular first name, in the same class. Simplified matters as a call of “Jason!” covered nearly a third of the class ... but onto more important matters.

The Vacherons are a close-knit family and are amongst the leaders of the appellation. Quality has long been high but the younger generation, Jean-Dominique and Jean-Laurent, are taking the wines to new heights. In 1997 they started to convert the now 40 ha estate to biodynamics. This coincided with Jean-Laurent’s return from working for six months in Australia after having been in California for three years. Jean-Laurent was clearly busy in Australia as he spent time at a number of wineries including Plantagent (Western Australia), Bannockburn and De Bortoli (both Victoria) and Tatachilla (South Australia). Sarah and I started our morning visiting some of the vineyards with him.

New vineyard below Château de Sancerre

Most of the Vacheron vineyards, 40 parcels in all, are close to Sancerre. Indeed a circular tour around the conical hill of Sancerre covers many of them. We made a number of stops including La Belle Dame, Les Romains and a newish vineyard on the north east side of the hill of Sancerre, below the Château de Sancerre, planted four years ago, using selection masal vines. “The masal vines gives both us more sugar and acidity,” Jean-Laurent explained. The new plantings are at 9000 vines per hectare and we now use a cordon pruning system rather than the more customary Guyot. “We prefer the cordon because it reduces the amount of fruit and gives us smaller bunches,” Jean-Laurent explained. “The Guyot system can produce very high yields.”

Across to Fontenay

We visited the Vacheron’s compost and spray preparation plant. Natural composts and sprays are a central part of biodynamics. The Vacherons make enough for their own use as well as supplying others. “I like Noël Pinguet’s (Domaine Huet in Vouvray) pragmatic approach to biodynamics – using it because it works.," said Jean-Laurent. The sprays are dynamised before use. Stirring them up introduces oxygen, so increasing the amount of bacteria which makes the treatement much more effective.” Like most biodynamic producers I have visited recently they use a machine – like a large mixing bowl – for dynamisation. However, in the early 1990s I remember visiting a producer in Cahors who used a large wooden pole to dynamise – decidedly hard work, especially if you have to stir for 20 minutes or more!

While we were at the plant Jean-Laurent showed us a new device on one of their tractors that significantly improves the fuel efficiency. Details on: www.hypnow.fr

Rue des Puits Poulton, Sancerre

Vineyards visited it was back to the labyrinthine Vacheron cellars in the old part of Sancerre with its narrow streets. We started with the reds. “We are now searching for more finesse and less tannin,” Jean-Dominique explained. “We are very careful over the selection of fruit and have ten people around the sorting table. I think we went for too much extraction in the past. We have reduced the amount of new oak barrels that we use and we have opted for 600 litre barrels. We are also lengthening the time before releasing the wines – La Belle Dame will not be released until 24 months after the vintage.

The Vacherons have 10.75 hectares of Pinot Noir in some 11-15 blocks. It was Grandfather Jean, the first of the family to move from polyculture to concentrate on wine, who provided the impetus to make Pinot Noir an important constituent of the domaine. Of the several unfinished reds we tasted the spicy 2006 La Belle Dame was the most impressive – currently showing finesse and balance.

The move to fermenting the whites in conical wooden vats has moved them up at least another notch emphasising the purity and precision of the fruit flavours. This shows in the both the 2007 Les Romains, made from only 25 hl/ha but not yet bottled, and in the lovely minerality of 2006. By this time it was lunch, so time for us all to repair to La Tour and taste some older vintages in comfort.

Lunch@La Tour
Sancerre has three very good restaurants – La Tour, Le Pomme d’Or in Sancerre itself and La Côte de Monts Damnés in Chavignol. Unfortunately I haven’t eaten at the Pomme d’Or for some long time as it always seems to be closed when I’m in Sancerre. It closes mid-week and is shut at the end of January and the beginning of November. But I do continue to get good reports on the Pomme. The cheapest menu at all three is around €28 – offering very good value for money. As it is easy to eat badly in cheaper restaurants around Sancerre for around €22, I think it well worth spending the extra €5-€6 for a much better meal and much better value as you get all the usual additional mise-en-bouches, etc.

Centre of Sancerre looking towards Porte César.
La Tour is just to right of Lotto shop

La Tour is now run by Baptiste Fournier, who has largely taken over from his father Daniel. Under Daniel the restaurant was rather up and down. Now it is more consistent and over the past couple of years I have had some very good meals there. Happily our lunch, which included delicate oeufs poches avec girolles and perfectly cooked turbot with ginger and green vegetables, was excellent.

We were treated to a range of vintages. From Les Romains – the rich 2000, which suffered a bit in comparison to the racy 2006, the 2003 showing the richness typical of that heat wave year but with a good fresh finish, which is less usual, and ending with the wonderfully pure and precise 2004. With the reds we started with the 2006 Domaine with delicious Pinot Noir fruit. Then a series of La Belle Dame starting with the silky 1996 – proof that these reds benefit from ageing. 1996 was the last year the Vacherons did the malolactic in tank before the wine was transferred to barrel. From 1997 onwards the malo has been in barrel. Then to the smoky, richly fruited 1999 with still some wood notes – 100% new oak was used in this vintage. The 2002 is quite rich but needs time to open, while the silky textured has quite marked tannins, which need time to soften.

Denis Vacheron has a wonderfully dry and wicked sense of humour. Over lunch he made two very funny observations. The first featured vintages of the century. These, Denis explained, are announced if in late July it is hot and sunny in Burgundy when Parisian journalists pass through on their way to spending August on the Côte d’Azur and if the weather is equally good in Burgundy on their return to Paris. The serious point being that as far as the Loire is concerned it is September, which is crucial in determining the quality of the vintage. “Increasingly I think it is the first fifteen days of September that make all the difference,” said Jean-Dominique. In Bordeaux it is August that is the month that counts.

Denis then showed how statistics lie. “A man has his feet in a freezer and his head in a micro-wave. The statistical average shows that he is relaxed and comfortable but actually he is dead!”

After a great visit with the Vacherons Sarah and I headed back to Touraine via the vines of Quincy and Reuilly. Reaching Touraine in time to enjoy a glass or so of the Huet's Le Bourg demi-sec 1996.

Domaine Vacheron, Rue du Puits Poulton, 18300 Sancerre.
Tel: 02.48.54.09.93
Email: vacheron.sa@wanadoo.fr

Restaurant La Tour, 31 Nouvelle Place, 18300 Sancerre
Tel: 02.48.54.00.81
Email: info@la-tour-sancerre.fr
Web: www.la-tour-sancerre.fr

The Wine Detective investigates Sancerre


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Sarah listens intently to Jean-Laurent Vacheron@Les Belles Dames vineyard.

(13 August 2008)
Some ten years ago Sarah Ahmed (aka The Wine Detective) left her high powered and remunerative job as an international lawyer to seek her fortune in wine. She is a Loire and Chenin Blanc aficionado. Sarah looks after the Loire section of the Oz Clarke Pocket Wine Book, as well as Portugal, and is a valued member of the Loire panel of judges for the Decanter World Wine Awards. She has a particular interest in the Loire’s organic and biodynamic producers.

"Anything you say will be noted and may be
used as evidence against you ..........."


Sarah is one of the very few UK wine journalists and writers, who is a regular at the annual Salon des Vins de Loire. held in Angers. Most of the UK wine press can't be arsed to take advantage of this friendly, well organised Salon that, every February, covers the whole of Loire – France's third largest wine region. Just four of us represented the UK at the 2008 edition – what a contrast to the UK wine buyers who are well represented. The 2009 edition is from 2nd to 4th February.

Sarah Ahmed: www.thewinedetective.co.uk
Salon des Vins de Loire:
www.salondesvinsdeloire.com

Vincent and Adelaide Grall


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Adelaide Grall outside their very small winery in Sancerre

(12 August 2008)
At the end of our visit to La Maison des Sancerre there remained nearly a couple of hours before we could see its director, Denis Roumet. So we went to visit Vincent Grall, who we were told was Sancerre’s smallest producer with just three hectares of vines. Certainly Vincent and Adelaide, his wife, are one of the smallest but Pascal Cotat with just 2.5 ha looks to be the current contender for this particular crown. (If there is another Sancerre producer with fewer vines, please let me know.)

By now the weather had cleared up. The sun was out as Sarah and I walked down through the steep streets of old Sancerre to 149 Avenue Nationale – the road that sweeps round the base of the old town and either leads down to Menetreol or up to Porte Cesar and the central square of Sancerre. From the outside it looks like a normal town house, so I assumed that this was their tasting room and where the Gralls live. It is not until you get inside that you discover that it is also the winery with all the equipment crammed into what would normally be the garage – a true garagiste!

The Gralls' three hectares of vines are on both silex (flint) and clay with some limestone. They have just 25 ares of Pinot Noir – 100 ares make one hectare – the rest is Sauvignon Blanc. Vincent started his wine career with the Vacherons – he is a cousin – before becoming chef de culture (vineyard manager) for Alphonse Mellot. He left in 1999 to set up on his own having started to plant his own vines in 1988 – looking after them in his spare time. 2000 saw him as a full-time vigneron starting to develop his bottle sales. Now 50% of his production is exported.

Vincent Grall in his Le Manoir vineyard, Sancerre

We started with the quite rich and round Cuvée Tradition 2006. Unlike some 2006s it had good acidity to balance its richness. The 2007 was plus vif, more mineral – very clean, precise flavours and length. Then 2006 and 2007 of Le Manoir, the 0.6 ha vineyard that overlooks Ménétréol-sous-Sancerre and is, unusually for Sancerre, on a band of quite heavy clay. Again there were clear vintage differences with the 2006 rich, weighty and long with a hint of nuttiness compared to the minerally 2007. The wines are vinified and aged in 600-litre barrels (demi-muids). They used less battonage (lees stirring) on the 2007 Manoir.

Evening light on vineyards alongside the Route de l’Orme

Later, with Vincent, I made a quick visit to his vineyards. We started with those on silex by the Route de l’Orme just to south west of Sancerre. 80% of the Gralls' vines are on silex. The vineyards are grassed. Vincent aims for small and well aerated bunches of grapes.

Evening light@Le Manoir
with the vineyards of Pouilly in the distance

The presence of clay at Le Manoir vineyard was soon all too evident as my shoes were rapidly transformed into platform-heels of thick mud as the ground was particularly claggy following all the recent rain.

Vincent Grall, 149 Avenue Nationale, 18300 Sancerre.
Tel : 02.48.78.00.42 or 06.75.48.12.46
Email: info@grall-vigneron-sancerre.com
Web: www.grall-vigneron-sancerre.com

La Maison des Sancerre


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View from the top of La Maison des Sancerre

(12 August 2008)
The highly recommended La Maison des Sancerre, in the centre of the old town, opened in 2005. The building, which dates from the 14th century, has been restored by the Sancerrois producers at a cost of €2.5 million. Benoït Roumet, the director of the Bureau du Centre, tells the story of the crucial meeting that gave the go-ahead to the project, which at the time was projected to cost €1.5 million thanks to some corner-cutting. Didier Prieur of Domaine Paul Prieur et Fils in Verdigny stood up and said that he was against the project. Benoît said that his heart sank as Didier is highly respected and his opposition would be a severe body blow. “If we are going to do this project, we can’t have half measures – no plastic windows, etc. We have to go for high quality, make something of which we can be proud.” paraphrasing Didier's words. In the vote that followed there was a big majority for the scheme – a high quality one.

As well as providing them with meeting and function rooms, there is a brilliant audio-visual exhibition of the Sancerre vineyard, its producers and their wines. The centrepiece is a remarkable light show on a 3-D representation of Sancerre’s vineyards that tells the story of how the region’s complex geological structure was shaped over millions of years. It makes a potentially dry subject completely fascinating. Absolutely brilliant – don’t miss it.

La Maison des Sancerre is a testament to the Sancerrois’ ability to work together and is extremely well done. It should be on everyone’s itinerary – an ideal place to develop an understanding of the appellation and its different aspects. If you have never been to Sancerre before I recommend that you really ought to start here.

Maison des Sancerres, Rue Méridien, 18300 Sancerre.
Tel: 02.48.54.11.35

www.maison-des-sancerre.com

Villa Quincy
Quincy has attempted something similar with their Villa Quincy. What a wasted opportunity and money not well spent. I went there in November 2007 not long after it opened. The information has been broken up into tiny bite-sized pieces – like feeding a very small child. My attention soon wandered. The Quincy producers opted for gimmicky information gadgets, which even then were breaking down. All in all a triumph of design over substance. Vignerons of Quincy go to the Maison des Sancerre to see how it should be done!

PS: Their website does, however, have a useful list and details of the Quincy producers but why is the whole site in bold type?!

Villa Quincy, Rue du Poinçon, 18120 Quincy
Tel. 02.48.51.72.34

www.villa-quincy.fr

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