Jérome Choblet

It is somewhat frustrating: I should really be out in the Loire seeing the vintage rather than being in London, despite the prospect today of tasting some interesting wines at 'the dirty dozen' tasting.
Unfortunately when CRM and I made our plans for 2011 we assumed that if we returned to the Loire in mid-September we would catch, as usual, much of the vintage. Due to various commitments it hasn't been possible to change our plans. Thankfully we were in Touraine at the end of August so caught the start in the Cher Valley. As it is we are now unlikely to see any of the 2011 harvest in the Pays Nantais, although we hope to catch the end of the vintage in the Central Vineyards.  
So it is good to get news from producers. Here is an update from Jérôme Choblet.

Domaine des Herbauges

Muscadet Côtes de GrandLieu Sur Lie

Bonjour Jim !

C'est parti !!!!

Après un printemps nommé "été", un été plutôt automnal les vendanges ont démarrées sous une météo bien capricieuse…

Depuis le 23 août, les conditions climatiques incertaines et les risques pris par nombre de vignerons (profitant d'un printemps clément, ont préféré s'en remettre à la nature plutôt que de faire minutieusement leur travail) les vendanges ont démarré très (trop) tôt dans le muscadet pour cause d'une dégradation de l'état sanitaire.

De notre côté avec un vignoble bien protégé et surtout un enherbement naturel vieux de plus de 20 ans, la vigueur de nos vignes et donc l'état sanitaire à été parfaitement contrôlé. Début de semaine dernière à la vue que nous étions les seuls à ne pas démarre nos vendanges, nous avons réalisé des test de maturité, lundi 29 août puis jeudi 1er septembre… La maturité n'était pas au rendez vos !

Nous avons passé alors 2 journées complètes avec toute l'équipe à parcourir toutes nos parcelles et Clos afin de déterminer où en était le Botrytis… Après de nombreuses réflexions il nous fallait attendre, beaucoup de stress car pas facile de se dire qu'il faut attendre alors que tous ses voisins ont fini ! Bref nous avons repris cette semaine et excellente surprise apres 4 jour beau temps chaud la maturité à bien avancée, l'état sanitaire est resté très bon et je pense que cette année sera donc une VRAIE année de "Vigneron" professionnel et passionné qui ont tout fait pour leur récolte.

Voilà donc les premières nouvelles, le Fief Guérin sera magnifique et excellent les essais d'hier montre un TAP de 11,5 % pour une AT de 4,7 donc très satisfaisante, la Roche Blanche est elle aussi très belle et bien mure, quand au Château de la Pierre les grains sont bien doré et le soleil des jours à venir va finir de la faire murir parfaitement.

Demain c'est Clos de la sénaigerie, qui approche lui aussi les 11,5 % et pas un grain de pourri !

J'ai déjà félicité l'équipe de Vigne du Domaine qui a fait un travail extraordinaire pour nous amener cette belle vendange à maturité optimum une année comme celle ci, si compliquée !!!

À très bientôt, 

Jérôme CHOBLET

jerome.choblet@domaine-des-herbauges.com 

Eric Chevalier, Domaine de l'Aujardière, Saint-Philbert-de-Grand-Lieu

The southern sector of Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu around the communes of Corcoué-sur-Logne, La Limouzinière and Saint-Philbert-de-Grand-Lieu was hit by a hailstorm on Monday night. I understand that Eric Chevalier was unfortunately amongst the producers affected.

As well as Muscadet this sector also produces vin de pays. The damage wrought by the hail has brought the harvest for the white grapes forward by about a week with picking starting this week. Unfortunately as the red grapes are not yet ripe, it is not possible to pick them now. Instead just hope that the damaged grapes do not turn rotten.    

More details here.

Eric Chevalier during the 2010 vintage

I'm delighted to announce that Eric Chevalier has been chosen as the Loire vigneron for Stage 3 of this year's Tour de France.

Today's stage starts in Olonne-sur-Mer and heads northwards avoiding the coast, which featured on Saturday's opening stage. As reported yesterday the route passes the winery of Thierry Michon (Domaine de Saint Nicolas). It then heads north east – ducking to the east of Challans – on a level to Nantes before heading north west towards Le Pont de Saint-Nazaire to cross La Loire and the race's entry into Brittany. It finishes at Redon.

As the race heads north west to La Loire it will pass through the small town of Saint-Philbert-de-Grand-Lieu. The talented Eric Chevalier is based just a few kilometres to the south of Saint-Philbert at the little hamlet of L'Aujardière. Eric's winery is just off the D70 used by the race but I am sure that he will be able to set up a table on the main road to allow the passing riders to sample his fine Fié Gris (Sauvignon Rose/Sauvignon Gris) and his equally good Muscadet Côtes de Grand Lieu. With the intermediate sprint at Saint-Hilaire-de-Chaléons some 20 kilometres further on I'm sure a glass of either would be an ideal preparation!

My guess – not a very difficult one! – is that this stage will end in a sprint. It would be good to see Mark Cavendish open his account for the 2011 Tour here.

Fié Gris: the wine that made Eric famous

2009 La Noë, Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu, Eric Chevalier, Domaine de l'Aujardière

A look at two more recently tasted 2009 Muscadets – one (Eric Chevalier) from the Salon des Vins de Loire and the other (Alexis Sauvion) kindly sent as a sample.

First up La Noë from a parcel that records show was first planted in 1694 (white grapes). This is 15 years before the extraordinarily severe winter of 1709, which is said to have persuaded produces that the Melon de Bourgogne was the right grape variety here because it resisted the prolonged cold. The La Noë vineyard is on granite with very little soil. Eric Chevalier is best known for his Fie Gris but his Muscadets are also impressive. The 2009 La Noë has buttery weight balanced by a good mineral grip in the long finish.

2009 Climat, Muscadet, Alexis Sauvion, Château de la Fessardière, Vallet

Alexis Sauvion is an organic Muscadet producer in Vallet  with 27 hectares of vines. They also make a range of jams and jellies – see here. I first tried the 2009 Climat back in June 2010 (see post). It has taken on more weight since then but although it is well made it still lacks the complexity and mineral excitement of top Muscadet. Estelle Sauvion had recommended that I tried it on several occasions, which I did. Perhaps I should have put it into a carafe.  

On Monday just had a short time to pop into this tasting held at The Deck of the National Theatre before heading off to the RSJ's 30th anniversary dinner. The wines in the tasting are recommended by wine writers in several price categories. There were some interesting Loires included.

Wines tasted:
 

2009 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie, Domaine Bois-Maligne (£5.99 Morrisons)

Easy drinking, lemony Muscadet. Selected by Tom Cannavan.

2009 Fief Guérin, Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu sur lie, Jérôme Choblet (Waitrose £5.99)

Crisp and lemony with more weight and length than previous wine. Selected by Sarah Ahmed.

Screwcap for Jérôme's wine – surely the way ahead for Muscadet!

2009 Romorantin, Vin de France, Un Saumon dans La Loire, Frantz Saumon (£15.50 Les Caves de Pyréne)

 Fine Romorantin from Frantz Saumon, wearing his négociant hat. Attractive lemony and minerla weight, touch of honey and good length. Selected by Sarah Ahmed.

2007 Le Volagré, Montlouis, Stéphane Cossais (£29.99 Les Caves de Pyréne)

The wine of the tasting showing the talent of the late Stéphane and revealing that his wines were getting better and better. Sadly we will never know what heights he might have reached. Rich, mouthfilling wine with lovely precision and length. All the cleanness of 2007 with a hint of honey and a tuch of oak still. A fitting tribute to a great winemaker and generous and unassuming character. Selected by Anthony Rose.

2009 Sauvignon de Touraine Domaine Mardon (£8.95 Swig Fine Wines)

Quite an aggressive and in your face style style of Touraine Sauvignon. Zesty, nettley and certainly hits the popular image of Loire Sauvignon Blanc. Selected by Jane Parkinson.

2009 Fié Gris, vdp Val de Loire, Eric Chevalier, Domaine de l'Aujardière (£14.95 Lea & Sandeman)

Front and back label

Have tasted and drunk Eric's Fié Gris over the past two or three years and it always impresses – on this occasion spice, touch of tar, real character and length. Given how good Fié Gris can be – Eric's, of course, but also from Jacky Preys in Touraine – it is surprising that it isn't more widely planted in the Loire since the rare examples are often more interesting than many Sauvignon Blancs.

2009 L'Ardoise, Anjou Rouge, Domaine des Rochelles, JHC Lebreton (£7.95 The Wine Society)

Onto the reds with this Anjou from Jean-Hubert Lebreton – soft and juicy with sooty aromas, grip in finish and acidity in finish. Needs to be drunk with food. Selected by Sarah Ahmed.

2008 Chinon, Domaine du Colombier (£5.99 Sainbury's)

Sainbury's have long stocked this Chinon, this 2008 is in a quite ripe, light style with sooty fruit. Selected by Tim Atkin MW. 

2007 Les Cailleries, Sancerre Rouge, Domaine Vacheron (£17 The Wine Society)

Hint of a gamy aroma with the precision and edge of the 2007 vintage – quite lean and needs food. Selected by Amy Wislocki.

 

Jérôme Choblet with a glass of 2010 Muscadet juice

Our last visit on Tuesday was across in Bouaye, one of the main towns of the Côtes de Grandlieu, where we dropped in on Jérôme Choblet. "We started on Monday 13th September and we expect to finish tomorrow," Jérôme told me. "The grapes average 12% with an acidity level below 4 – around 3.8-3.9. Wine drinkers will be pleased as they don't like acidity."

Jérôme was very pleased with a new picking machine called Selectiv' Process made by Pellenc that he had rented during the harvest. Unfortunately he had had to return it the day before so we didn't get to see it. A new machine costs 190,000€, so the Choblets had wanted to try it out before investing in one.

*

Serge Batard checking the press

Part of a trailer load of hand picked grapes

On Wednesday morning we paid a short visit to Serge Batard (Domaine les Hautes Vignes in Saint-Leger-les-Vignes). Of the seven vignerons that we visited in Muscadet Serge was the only one who was not enthusiastic about 2010.

"It is a delicate vintage," Serge reported. "There is more rot than in 2009. We had a storm on the 7th/8th September with 50mm of rain, which restarted some rot, which had appeared in July but had dried out. I reckon we have lost about 10%-15% of the harvest because of this. The younger vines seem to have been hit more than the older vines. 2010 is not the vintage of the century for us!"

Serge reckoned he had about three days of picking left.  Even though Serge was not very happy with the vintage the grapes that I saw on the trailer looked pretty good – presumably the pickers had done a good job in the vineyard rejecting rotten grapes.

*

Eric Chevalier: Domaine de l'Aujardière, Saint-Philbert-de-Grand-Lieu
Since he took over from his father, Gérard, on 1st April 2006, Eric has rapidly established himself as one of the new stars of the Pays Nantais, so it was good to be able to make a quick visit to his domaine, which is to the south east of Saint-Philbert-de-Grand-Lieu.

Although Eric's domaine is only about 18 kilometres away (in a straight line) from Serge in Saint-Leger, he didn't get the early September storm that has disrupted Serge's harvest. "Storms often pass on one side of the Lac or the other," Eric explained. He had just arrived with a trailer of machine-picked Fie Gris (Sauvignon Rose/Sauvignon Gris). 'We started this morning at 7am – yesterday it was 5.30am. It's coming in at 12.6%, so again no need to chaptalize (adding sugar to the must) this year, which makes it three years in a row. We started on the Fie Gris Jeunes Vignes last week. Picked the Melon on Friday and Saturday. The yields are good along with the quality – 85/90 hl/ha for the Chardonnay vin de pays."

We tasted various juices – Chardonnay (rich and clean), Pinot Noir for the rosé, Fie Gris and Melon. All tasted clean and promising, so will be good to taste the finished wine. At least five generations of the Chevalier family have farmed here. Gérard, Eric's father, was the first to decide to specialise in wine. He was also one of the first in the district to plant varieties to make vin de pays – pulling out Gros Plant and Melon to plant Chardonnay and Fie Gris.   

The domaine has 30 ha of vines – 12 Melon de Bourgogne and 18 vin de pays.  30% of their sales are from the cellar door and between 30%-40% export. Eric is imported by Kermit Lynch into the US and by Lea & Sandeman and SWIG into the UK.  

See my report on Eric Chevalier following the 2010 Salon des Vins de Loire here.

Eric getting a sample of 2010 Chardonnay juice for us to taste

This Vin de Pays du Val de Loire comes from Hervé and Nicolas Choblet of the Domaine du Haut Bourg in Bouaye, the leading town in the AC Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu. The 2009 is attractively fresh and fruity, slightly grassy but also with grapefruit and other citric notes. This is a good easy drinking wine with no great length or complexity but makes an attractive apero and I'm sure would be good with goats' cheese dishes.

The Choblets, who may be related to the Choblets (Luc and Jérrôme) of the Domaine des Herbauges in Bouaye, have 40 hectares of vines. The Choblet's Sauvignon Blanc is available in the UK through Dudley Jones Fine Wine (www.dudleyjonesfinewine.co.uk/).

Eric Chevalier and his Fie Gris: February 2010

I first came across Eric Chevalier's wines in February last year at the Sauvignon Blanc Ambassadors' tasting in Tours with his Fie Gris (Sauvignon Rose). I tasted it again later on in the year and was again impressed, so I wanted to make sure that I met and tasted with him during the Salon.

Eric used to be employed by Vinival and Grands Chais de France, who bought Vinival in 2004. He was based in Montrichard, where he was in charge of the Touraine vinification facility. He had previously gained experience at Domaine Laroche (Chablis) and the Caves de la Loire (Brissac). In 2005 he decided to return to the Pays Nantais and take over the family vineyards, which he did in 2006. Based at Saint-Philbert-de-Grand-Lieu in Muscadet Côtes de Grand Lieu, he has 28 hectares of vines with a range of grape varieties planted. The principal varieties are: 12 hectares of Melon de Bourgogne, 5 of Chardonnay and 2.5 of Fie Gris. The rest is made up of Grolleau, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir and Gros Plant.

Eric made his name with the Fie Gris. The 2006, his first vintage, was picked up on by Patrick Sandeman of Lea & Sandeman (London, UK). Patrick entered it into the Top 100 Vins de Pays competition run by Off Licence News. It came top. Eric's US importer is Kermit Lynch.

Eric uses the natural yeasts. We started with the weighty and attractive 2009 Muscadet Côtes de Grand Lieu – its rich texture offset by mineral acidity and touch of bitterness in the finish. Then onto a minerally Chardonnay sur lie. The Chardonnay was planted by Eric's father who pulled out the Gros Plant formerly there. It will be bottled at Easter using exactly the same method used to bottle Muscadet.

The 2008 Chardonnay sur lie VDP Val de Loire, while less rich than 2009, has again a good mix of fruit texture and mineral acidity and again that touch of bitterness. Miles away from a heavy, oaky sweet Chardonnay. I suspect you see the influence of Eric's time at Laroche in Chablis here.

La Noë Muscadet Côtes de Grand Lieu comes from a parcel planted on granite. It has had vines there continuously since 1694. Unfortunately the parcel was hit by a hail storm on 7th May 2008 but the 2007, the first vintage the parcel was vinified separately, is quite aromatic with attractive weight. As is customary with 2007 there is more acidity and minerality.

Tasting the 2008 Fie Gris again I note that it is becoming increasingly spicy. Due to the April frost the yield was only 15-20 hl/ha. "It's good with olives," remarks Eric.

Eric's 2009s are looking good including Le Clos de la Butte – a new Muscadet cuvée – and La Noë. Many have that characteristic touch of bitterness, which adds interest to the wines. "Producers try to get rid of bitterness," says Eric, "but this is a mistake as it is one of the taste sensations."

Eric also makes a rosé from Pinot Noir – the apero style 2009 is soft and easy drinking. The red 2009 Pinot Noir with severe tannins is less successful as Eric readily admits. "This is not an area for reds."

Next thing I have to do is to go and see Eric in Saint-Philbert.

30 September 2009

Jérôme Choblet and his young family tasting 2009 juice before it has started fermenting

Having seen two producers in the Sèvre-Maine AC – Bernard Chereau (Château de Chasseloir) and Pierre, Monique, Pierre-Marie and Marie Luneau (Domaine Luneau-Papin) not forgetting Domaine de Topaze – we headed across to Bouaye to see Luc and Jérôme Choblet. Like Bernard and Pierre, they were both thrilled and exciting by the quality of the vintage – not surprising after the misery of last year's frost.

Jérôme Choblet: "The quality is extraordinary and as well we have a normal yield for the first time since 2005 – the last three years have been very difficult. We have finished the Melon de Bourgogne. Nothing came in under 11.5% potential and most of the crop has been around 12% potential. Acidity is between 3.5g-3.8g. We have 55hl/ha for the Melon and 65hl/ha for the Chardonnay vins de pays. We'll finish the Chardonnay tomorrow morning. It's been coming in at 12.96%-13.30% with the acidity between 4.2-4.4g.

Luc Choblet grins as he reverses one of the last trailer loads of Chardonnay towards the winery

Tasting the juice of both the Chardonnay and the Melon showed both to be impressively rich, clean but with good freshness in the finish. Indeed very like all the juice that I have so far tasted in various parts of the Loire over the past week.

Driving away from Bouaye towards our chambres d'hôtes in Monnières the exterior temperature at 6.20pm was still 24.5˚C – quite extraordinary!

(to be finished)

Jérôme Choblet: late September 2008 tasting the new juice

When I skyped Jérôme Choblet (Domaine des Herbauges, Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu) this morning he was brief and to the point: "Superb! We'll probably start around the 12th - 14th September."

Pierre in the vines: September 2008

A call a little later to Pierre and Monique Luneau (Domaine Luneau-Papin, Muscadet-de-Sèvre-et-Maine) evoked a similar message. "Beau," said Monique. "It's looking good," said Pierre. "It has been dry and hot. The grapes and vines are very healthy. Some of the young vines, whose roots aren't very deep are suffering. It should be a good vintage – here years that end in 9 are often good – 1979, 1989 and 1999. Difficult to compare it with a previous vintages but maybe 1997 or 1999. Although it is too early to say, my guess is that our average yield will be around 50 hl/ha – some parcels at 45 hl/ha others at 55 hl/ha.

"We'll probably start harvesting around 14th September, although some of my neighbours may begin next week around 9th-10th. The technical people started checking the vineyards last Thursday to determine the date for the ban des vendanges – the grapes are at 9˚ potential alcohol with 7/8 g acidity, which is quite low for this stage."

It is, of course, dangerous to make predictions before the harvest and rather tempts fate but if the weather holds for the next few weeks then Muscadet will get, what many growers desperately need, a normal vintage in quantity of good quality. This appears to be less so for growers who rely on selling their wine to the négoce, who are not buying even though there is a shortage of Muscadet after three small vintages. Pierre told me of one producer, seen by his son recently, who has 1000 hl of 2008 still in his winery – almost the entire production of that vintage. The problem of course, is that producers, who still have substantial stocks of 2008, may not have enough space for 2009, and once the 2009s come on the market there will be even less demand for the 2008.

Pierre and Jérôme have promised to send me photos of their grapes, so I look forward to getting these and posting them up on the site.

Incidentally Guy Bossard's domaine is still for sale.

••

Frédéric during the 2007 harvest

Frédéric Mabileau (Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil/Bourgueil)

"Superb!" is also Frédéric Mabileau's opinion on the current state of his vines, although this optimism is tempered by the vines, especially young vines, suffering from lack of rain. Fred and his family have been out regularly doing their rain dance and singing water inducing songs but to no avail.

Fred: "There is some rain forecast for this week but it will probably pass to the north of us. If it doesn't rain the grapes will be very concentrated, very small with thick skins, which will make the fermentation difficult. However, the Chenin vines at Le Puy Notre Dame are not suffering from water stress at all. I had thought that we might start harvesting at the end of September but the drought is slowing ripening, so I think it will now be the beginning of October."

Thomas Meunier

Thomas Meunier, their export director, left at the end of July with his American girlfriend to seek his fortune in the United States. He is living in North Carolina and is now establishing an agency to help French winemakers to extend and improve distribution of their wines in the southern part of the USA.

As Thomas explains:
I'll act as an agent/importer to open up distribution in Southern states (North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia...). My role will be to find the distributor that most suits each brand/producer, take care of the logistics from winery to distributor warehouse, providing updated trade information, train the sales team, support the sales rep in the market, create incentive and make sure of re-orders.

I'm looking for wineries that use organic or sustainable agriculture, harvest by hand, natural yeast, what we should expect to have a "Vin de Terroir".

Contact details:
Address : 701 Davie Road - Carrboro NC 27510
cell : (919) 619-2087
Email tm.meunier@gmail.com

••

Pierre Pichot

Pierre Pichot
After four years at Interloire looking after exports, Pierre is leaving to set up an oyster bar in Les Halles, Tours. This will allow him to continue to promote Loire wines, which are naturally a great foil for oysters. Indeed there is a view that oysters were designed and invented specifically to go with Muscadet and Gros Plant. Pierre's bar is due to open in late October – around 24th.

Jérôme Choblet: Domaine des Herbauges with 2008 juice

Jim: Bonjour Jérôme. Quelles nouvelles pour les vignes. Floraison bien passés? etc.

Jérôme: Bonjour Jim. Pas en France en ce moment mais quand je suis partis tout allais pour le mieux dans les vignes

Jim: C'est bon. En vacances?

Jérôme: Non en Chine, cela va vite devenir notre premier marché

Jim: Intéressants! vite?

Jérôme: Et la Chine ne s'arrête jamais donc l'été c'est le seul coin du monde où on peut encore faire des affaires.

Jim: Tu reviens quand? Parce que je vous donnerai un coup de Skype pour parler vignes en 2009.

Jérôme: Ici nos Muscadet Côtes de GrandLieu Sur Lie sont reconns comme de très grands vins blancs français, et nous pouvons les valoriser beaucoup plus que dans le reste du monde

Jim: Tes Muscadets sont en Chine depuis quand?

Jérôme: Depuis un peu plus de 2 ans

Jim: Incroyable croissance!

Jérôme: On en a vendu 38.000 Bt en 2 ans, et on a déjà plus de 50.000 Bt en commande pour livraison fin d'année, ça augmente très vite

Jim: Felicitations!

Jérôme: Ils adorent, même si il ont dans la tête les vins rouges, lorsqu'ils goûtent ils préfèrent largement les vins blancs.

(Jérôme explaining that the Chinese treat Muscadet as one of France's 'grands vins blancs' and accord it greater value than do many other markets around the world. Although he has only been exporting to China for little more than two years, Jérôme has already sold 38,000 bottles and has orders for another 50,000 to be delivered before the end of this year. Jérôme says that although the Chinese think they like red, when they taste they actually prefer white wines.

Hopefully the 2009 vintage will be of average volume, which will ease the supply crisis after two small vintages, especially the frost devastated 2008.)

Jérôme Choblet tasting 2008 juice: 23.9.08

Quick Skype call this morning to a buoyant Jêrôme Choblet (Domaine des Herbauges, Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu). “The vines are looking very good at the moment, so much better than they did at this time last year after the early 2008 April frost. So far we have had no frost and no hail. There has been a belle sortie (good number of potential bunches – flowering won’t happen until late May/early June). Because we pruned a little bit longer this year, in case we were hit by another frost, our potential crop is a little too big. Once the risk of frost is past – in 15 days time – then we will start removing some of the buds to reduce the crop.”

I asked Jérôme whether he thought we might see a very big crop in 2009 similar to the huge crop of 1992 that followed the terrible 1991 frost. (When the vine shave a year off they tend to produce a big crop the following year – all that pent-up energy!) “No I don’t think it will be like 1992. There has been a big change in the way the vineyards are managed since then. For instance, there is much less fertiliser used today. The vineyards are now grassed over to reduce vigour. Also because of the esca disease there are missing vines in many of the vineyards.”

Jêrôme assured me that none of the vineyards in the Côtes de Grandlieu uses the total weed kill used in parts of Touraine – instead the vineyards are grassed over. “No one uses the old conventional viticulture, now it is either la lutte raisonnée or organic farming.”

The most important thing in 2009 was for the Muscadet producers to avoid another serious frost. Barring a last minute frost that fortunately looks to have happened. Depending upon what happens during the flowering 2009 could be a ‘normal’ harvest in terms of volume after the short vintages of 2007 and 2008. Fingers crossed!

Benoît Fouassier (Domaine Fouassier, Sancerre): Quelques nouvelles de nos vendanges
'Elles sont terminées chez nous depuis mercredi dernier, le 15/10.

Nous sommes très satisfaits de ce millésime 2008 du point de vue de la qualité. Nous avons rentré nos sauvignons avec des degrés entre 12 et 14 et des acidités de 5,5 à 6,4. Le rendement moyen est de 52 hl/ha en sauvignon. Pour les pinot noir, les degrés vont de 12,5 à 13,5 et les acidités de 5 à 5,5. Le rendement moyen en pinot noir est de 35 hl/ha cette année.

En ce qui concerne notre conversion en agriculture biologique et en biodynamie, nous avons conduit 18 ha pour la campagne 2008 et cette année nous conduisons nos 55 ha de vigne en biodynamie. C'est un challenge passionnant et une autre approche de la viticulture.

PS : Je n'ai pas de photos de Michaël Ott en vendanges, dommage!

Benoît Fouassier (Domaine Fouassier, Sancerre): Some news of our 2008 harvest:
‘We finished the harvest last Wedndesday (15th October)

‘We are very satisfied with the quality of 2008. The Sauvignons came in between 12%-14% potential with acidities between 5.5 and 6.4 gms. The average yield for the Sauvignon was 52 hl/ha. With the Pinot Noir the degrees were between 12.5%-13.5% with acidities between 5 to 5.5 and an average yield of 35 hl/ha.

‘As far as our conversion to organic and biodynamic viticulture, we have converted 18 ha this year and we are now starting to convert the rest of our 55 ha. It is a passionate challenge for us and a different approach to viticulture.

‘Unfortunately I don’t have any pictures of Michaël Ott (UK agent) harvesting. A pity!

Jean-Marie Bourgeois, Henri Bourgeois, Sancerre etc
A cautious assessment of the quality of 2008:
“Absolutely fantastic! We have been greatly surprised. However, the vintage is 20% of normal in quantity.

Jêrome Choblet, Domaine des Herbauges, Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu
“We finished the Muscadet on 29th September and harvested the Chardonnay on 29th and 30th. Because of the tiny harvest it only took us six days this year. We have had 18 hl/ha – we had thought to make 20-25 hl/ha but because of the lack of juice in the grapes the actual yield was lower. This is even worse than 1991 (overall the worst frost experienced in the Loire and western France in recent times). In 1991 we made 19.5 hl/ha. The average yield here in Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu is only 15 hl/ha. The overall average yield for Muscadet (Sèvre-et-Maine etc.) is 22 hl/ha.

“Although we were very stressed by our decision to wait for our grapes to ripen properly and to stop picking for a week after we found that our first grapes harvested on Monday 15th September were not properly ripe and with high acidity levels, the decision was absolutely right. We are very happy with the quality of 2008. Waiting that week extra gave us 2% more potential alcohol and reduced acidity, which had been at 8 gms but came down to between 5.6 and 6 gms. There is a lot of tartaric acidity and a lot is dropping out during fermentation.

“Because of the severe shortage of 2008 I can confirm that of all our large customers around the world Waitrose (UK supermarket) is the only client to whom we have guaranteed to supply. We have worked together for a long time and we have a long-term partnership – they will have UK exclusivity.”

Melon de Bourgogne 2008

Due to the severe frost in early April the volume of the 2008 vintage is well below normal. Overall the estimate is that the frost destroyed 50% of the crop. However, this varies from sector to sector. “We lost between 20%-70% of the crop depending on the parcel,” said Monique Luneau of Domaine Luneau-Papin, Le Landreau in the Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine. “Overall we will make 40% of normal,” added Pierre. Pierre says that Joseph Landron has only made 12 hl/ha. Across in the Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu Jérome Choblet of Domaine des Herbauges says: “Before we started picking we had hoped for 25 hl/ha but now we have started we will be lucky to get 20 hl/ha. With around 130 ha – 105 of Melon – Herbauges is the largest producer in the Grandlieu appellation.

One of Pierre Luneau's pickers with grapes destined for Cuvée Excelsior

Fortunately the weather is good here: sunny but not very hot – the maximum temperature yesterday was just over 20˚C and the nights are decidedly fresh. Here and elsewhere in the Loire it seems a lot drier than during August – the grass is less green and the ground in the vineyards is dry and dusty.

“We started picking yesterday,” says Jérôme. “We checked the grapes on Monday a week ago (15 September) but they weren’t properly ripe ¬ only 9˚ alc but 8.2 acidity. Now we have 10.5˚-11˚ depending upon the parcel and 5.7 acidity. Waiting a week was very stressful as most of the producers around here were picking. 80% of all Muscadet has now been picked.” Assuming that their neighbours’ grapes were similarly barely ripe, it will be a good year for the bettravistes – sugar beet farmers of northern France. However, the high levels of acidity will be a problem.

Jérome Choblet with 2008 Muscadet juice

At Luneau-Papin they are finishing the hand picking – yesterday was the last day – and the rest of the grapes will be picked by machine. Pierre Luneau was very relaxed yesterday – his main concern appears to be trying to get his new mobile phone to work properly.

"Hello! Hello!" Pierre Luneau struggling with his mobile

Someone has to work: Pierre-Marie Luneau checks the harvest

Pierre Luneau admiring grapes destined for Excelsior

Monique Luneau: la vendangeuse en chef

One of the givens of the harvest is that machines will break down – usually at the most inconvenient time. While we talked to Jérôme, his father Luc was busy repairing the picking machine, so that it would be ready to go next morning.

Luc Choblet: "I think it goes this way..............."

"That's better – cracked it!"

(25 September 2008)

Unfortunately the sky is grey this morning and it’s raining – a complete contrast to yesterday.