(17th December 2008)

We had a very enjoyable lunch with Jean-Ernest Sauvion (formerly Maison Sauvion/ Château du Cléray and now retired to western Touraine). Jacky’s Blot’s Triple Zero as the aperitif was followed by the 1996 elevé en fûts de chêne from the Clos Roche Blanche AC Touraine. This blend of Cabernet, Côt and Gamay is now called La Closerie. The 1996 continues to show well with good, evolved black fruit flavours and structure with some acidity in the finish. It worked well with a salad of goats’ cheese, lardoons and mushrooms. Although a surprise for those who think straight AC Touraine wines don’t age, however I don't think the 1996 will improve further.

1996 Elévé en futs de Chêne Clos Roche Blanche

1995 Grand Clos Saumur-Champigny Château de Villeneuve

“A step up in quality,” was how Jean-Ernest described the 1995 Grand Clos Saumur-Champigny from Château de Villeneuve. Partnered with an adapted boeuf-bourgignon, the 1995 was particularly delicious with its fragrant black fruits and cedar notes and good concentration. Probably at its peak now but should remain at this level for some time. So excellent was Le Grand Clos that you have to wonder why you would want to pay the large sums necessary to find the equivalent in Bordeaux. Equally it would be fascinating to put this blind against top Bordeaux.

1976 Le Haut-Lieu Moelleux Huet

English cheeses – Montgomery’s cheddar and Stichelton, an unpasteurised ‘Stilton’ – followed. Stichelton can’t be called Stilton because it is made from unpasteurised milk and sadly Stilton now has to be made with pasteurised milk. Both cheeses came from Neal’s Yard Diary in London. The long and delicately honeyed 1976 Haut-Lieu Vouvray moelleux from Huet was perfect with the cheeses. Complex aromas and flavours have now replaced some of the Haut-Lieu’s initial sweetness.

I bought a number of bottles of the 1976 during the 1980s and have found that the corks have been problematic – some of the levels on the bottles are quite low. Indeed one I tried about six months ago was only just over half full. Much to my surprise the remaining wine was still drinkable.

1990 Vouvray Moelleux Cuvée des Deronnières,
Pascal Delaleu, Domaine de la Galinière

A tarte tatin demanded something sweeter than the 1976 Haut-Lieu Moelleux, so I chose the rich and honeyed 1990 Vouvray Moelleux Cuvée des Deronnières from Pascal Delaleu, Domaine de la Galinière in Vernou. Unlike a number of 1990 Vouvrays its colour was still light gold as quite often 1990s have developed a surprisingly deep golden colour.

Family dinner for eight starting with Jacky’s Blot’s 2000 Extra Brut Millésimé La Taille aux Loups – nicely rounded out and developed from its additional time in bottle – some toastiness and a hint of honey.

The 2007 Château du Cléray Muscadet Sèvre et Maine was brilliant with the first course of prawns having both weight and freshness but without sharp acidity. There was some surprise that Muscadet can be this good. The 2007 can clearly be drunk with pleasure now but should happily last for a good five years.

A magnum of the 2006 Expression de Cécile Sancerre Rouge from Henry Natter was perfect with the baked salmon trout – the wine’s soft red fruits being a fine foil to the trout’s quite delicate flesh. An illustration of how good a medium-bodied Sancerre red can be with some fish.

Then with the Tarte de Cambrai made with pears following the recipe in Jane Grigson’s Fruit Book, we finished off the 1990 Vouvray Moelleux Cuvée des Deronnières from Pascal Delaleu Domaine de la Galinière in Vernou.