1 November 2009

Entrance to the Fonseca cellars

From the Bacalhôa winery it was just a short drive to the old, historic cellars of José Maria da Fonseca in the centre of Vila Nogueira de Azeitão. However, our reception was a world away from that we were accorded at Bacalhôa. Instead of the chief winemaker and commercial director and others at JM Fonseca we were shown round by the winery guide – charming and well informed but not the same. Perhaps they saw us a group of arriviste bloggers but Charles Metcalfe was in our midst and in these parts Charles is as close to vinous royalty as you can get.

Decorative detail on an outside wall of the Fonseca premises

The company was founded in 1834. It remains in family hands with the seventh generation at the helm. JM da Fonseca now produces some 30 million litres a year divided into 33 brands. As well as the old cellars the company has a new winery close by.

After a tour of the old cellars we tasted four wines, which with exception of the Moscatel were not exciting. The two reds (2007 Pasmodos 9€ and 2004 Domingos Soares Franco 17.50€) were decidedly old style with dry, grainy tannins, especially the Pasmodos. Bacalhôa's Anfora knocks both wines into a cocked hat and is cheaper. The 1998 Domingos Soares Franco Moscatel Roxo 17.50€ saved the show with its concentrated nutty and marmalade flavours with apricot and sweet peach in the long finish. Slightly old style but here it works.

Lancers Free

On the way out we paused in the shop. I noticed a display of Lancers Free. Lancers rosé is one of Fonseca's best known and best selling brands and in July they launched an alcohol free version. Apparently this is Portugal's first alcohol free wine. I have to admit I'm bemused: what is point of drinking Lancers if it leaves you stone cold sober? Why not just opt for a nice glass of orange juice?

For lunch we headed to the Restaurante Alcanena in Palmela, which is obviously a local institution with its substantial, varied and copious buffet. We had various local wines to try over lunch including a couple from Bacalhôa but none from JM da Fonseca – another trick missed! Of the new wines on show the most impressive was the 2007 Ermelinda Reserva, Terras do Sado from Casa Ermelinda Freitas. This made from a blend of Castelão (40%), Touriga Nacional (40%) and Syrah (20%) with the vines planted in Fernando Pó, which apparently is a good site in the Palmela region. While the Touriga and the Syrah are from recently planted vines, the Castelão vines are over 50 years old.

Charles Metcalfe@the recent Circle of Wine Writers tasting given by Miguel Torres (seated)

Just to underline Mr Metcalfe's celebrity status, the owner of the restaurant asked to have her photo taken with Charles. Doubtless if I ever go back to Alcanena– certainly worth looking out if you are in the area, especially if you are feeling hungry – a framed photo of her and Charles will hanging in pride of place.

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1 November 2009

José Maria Fonseca: The founder still keeps an eye on things

Have now finished the first part of the report on our visit to Sétubal and the Terras do Sado.

José Maria Fonseca: Bacchus and companion in garden

Still to come: visits to José Maria da Fonseca and to Horácio Simões.

José Maria Fonseca: barrels of Roxo

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Bacalhôa winery: horse's head

As programmed our bus left at 9.30 just as Justin' Time (née Roberts) hurled himself from a taxi and onto the bus.

First stop was the large Bacalhôa winery, where we had a visit and a tasting. We should have been going to the lovely Quinta do Bacalhôa with its gardens and azulejos, which dates back some four hundred years, but unfortunately there is renovation work going on there at the moment. In December 2003 I'd visited the Quinta but I don't think I had seen the winery, which was founded in 1992 under the name of João Pires et Filhos. In 1998 Comendador Berardo became the major shareholder in the company and, in time, the company name was changed to Bacalhôa.

Arches and part of the winery

Bacalhôa Wines has a production capacity of 20 million litres, space for 15,000 barrels and around 1000 hectares of vines.

It is possibly easier to list the major Portuguese wine companies that Berardo doesn't own than mention the ones that he does. After an initial joint venture with Lafite-Rothschild at Quinta do Carmo in the Alentejo, Berardo now owns Carmo and last year became the major shareholder in Aliança.

Berardo is a great art collector and there is plenty of evidence of this at the winery including many old azulejos. Close the entrance to the large winery, there are copies of the famous Chinese terracota army. The soldiers and their horses are currently in a rather shabby state, although they may be in the process of renovation.

The terracotta army with the winery in the background


Barrels for aging Moscatel

We had a very good tasting, conducted by Vasco Garcia, the chief winemaker, of seven wines. Although it was All Saints Day the commercial director was also present. With one exception, they showed well and are all good value for money.

We started with the 2008 Loridos Alvarinho, Vinho Branco Regional Lisboa (7-8€). Most Alvarinho comes from the northern part of the Minhão around Moncão (Vinho Verde production area). This was decidedly lean, austere and lemony – tonique! in French. I would have liked to have seen a little generosity of fruit. On this evidence it may well be best not to plant more Alvarinho around Lisbon.

The crisp 2008 Catarina, Regional Peninsula de Sétubal (6€), was a much less challenging white. It is made from Fernão Pires and Arinto grown on flat sandy soils and Chardonnay on the limestone slopes of the Arrábida mountains. Offers good value at 6€.

We started the reds with the company's oldest brand – the sooty, herbal and leafy 2007 Tinto da Anfora, Regional Alentejano (6€). The company has 350ha of vines in the Alentejo and Anfora comes from vines in three zones in the region – Portalegre, Borba and Arraiolos. Anfora is a blend of number of varieties including Aragonez (Tempranillo), Touriga Nacional, Trincadeira, Alfrocheiro and Cabernet Sauvignon. It's one of those wine that underlines what great value can be had in Portugal in this 4-7€ range. Unlike some of the icon wines that too often have silly price tags.

Next the single varietal 2006 Só Touriga Nacional, Regional Peninsula de Sétubal (11-12€) with its combination of violets, herbal freshness along with structure and power in the finish. One of the more successful varietal Tourigas but still could have done of any variety to soften out the angles.

Then the top wine from the showpiece estate in Azeitão – the dense and smoky 2005 Palácio da Bacalhoa, Regional Peninsula de Sétubal (30€). The initial sweet fruit including blackcurrant and toast is balanced by quite a lean finish: a good wine and quite reasonably priced. This 'Bordeaux blend' is a mix of Cabernet Sauvignon (51%), Merlot (43%) and Petit Verdot (6%) and it spends 17 months in French oak barriques. The straight Quinta wine sells for 15€.

Finally two examples of Sétubal's unique Moscatel – sadly overlooked ahnd virtually unknown outside Portugal. 'The true secret of Portugal." remarked Charles Metcalfe. The 1999 Balcalhôa Moscatel de Sétubal (15€) is a lovely combination of nuts, sultanas, marmalade, sweet apricot and freshness in the finish. Vasco explained that it is the high acidity that makes Moscatel de Sétubal stand out from other fortified wines – both Muscats and other styles. 1983 was the first vintage Moscatel that Bacalhôa made. Apparently 1998 was an extremely good Moscatel vintage and that the 1999 is less concentrated but is still pretty impressive. Mental note: drink more Moscatel de Setúbal!

We finished with a rarity: 1999 Bacalhôa Moscatel Roxo (18€ for 50cls). Most Moscatel here is made from Muscat d'Alexandrie. However, there is a small amount of Roxo, a red Muscat variety that virtually died out here about 20 years ago. Aromas of rose are very characteristic of Roxo. During the 1980s Bacalhôa planted some 4ha of Roxo. It is a very early ripening variety with small berries. Occasionally it ripens in late July. The second and third week of August is more common. In contrast Muscat d'Alexandrie is the latest variety in the region to ripen. As well as aromas of rose the rich and concentrated 1999 Roxo has rich apricot and burnt marmalade flavours. More concentration than the previous Moscatel but less finesse and freshness.

Ryan's 'ere

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