Showing posts with label Saumur-Champigny. Show all posts

2011 Loire Vintage: Saumur-Champigny - Frères Foucault and Thierry Germain


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Charly Foucault plus assistant connecting the hose 


Charly Foucault watching grapes and must going into vat down in cellar 

Foucaults: at the sorting table

Thierry Germain checking grapes

Le Petit Pressigny: a visit to La Promenade's cellars and admiring the village's new traffic lights


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Red light in le Petit Pressigny
During dinner at La Promenade on Saturday night, Xavier Fortin, the restaurant's long-serving sommelier, kindly invited us to visit the restaurant's cellars the next morning around 11am. This gave me time to wander around the village (population: 326 in 2006) and, in particular, to admire the new traffic lights in the centre of the village. These are a traffic calming measure – changing colour as cars etc. approach.

Getting the green light

Among the treasures in La Promenade's cellars, there are some very old bottles from the Foucaults (in Chace). The oldest being a 1900 Saumur-Champigny.

1900 Clos Rougeard, Saumur-Champigny (Foucault)


Xavier Fortin who has been at La Promenade since 1988

2004 Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine, André Michel Brégeon

Xavier kindly opened a 2004 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine from André Michel Brégeon. Now one of the crus communales it spent five years on its lees. Light to mid-gold in colour this has a richness and complexity that one doesn't normally associate with Muscadet. At the same time it is brilliantly precise and mineral in the finish. A grand vin but not at a grand vin price.

1986 Savennières demi-sec Château d'Epiré + 2010 Les tufolies, Saumur-Champigny, Domaine des Champs Fleuris


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1986 demi-sec Savennières Château d'Epiré

Dinner with Chenin appreciating friends so a good opportunity to look at a mature Savennières. Despite a short cork, this Château d'Epiré is still in good condition. Mid-burnished gold in colour, slightly fungal aromas with good mouthfilling honeyed fruit and the richness nicely balanced by vibrant, quite austere background of acidity. made a complex and intriguing aperitif and proved to be a good match for a Greek style salad as first course.  

2010 Les tufolies, Saumur-Champigny, Domaine des Champs Fleuris

For the main course a sort of North African shepherd's pie we went from middle aged to nearly extreme youth with this vibrantly fruited, young Saumur-Champigny full of soft round fruit. This is an ideal bottle to enjoy now, though it will doubtless last easily another three or four years but to what purpose? 

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