2008 Sancerre Rouge, Domaine Serge Laloue

Two reds (Pinot Noir) from the Central Vineyards tasting I did at the beginning of June: both from the 2008 vintage with one coming from Sancerre and the other from Menetou-Salon. The first was the medium weight Sancerre Rouge from Domaine Serge Laloue with bright attractive red fruits and red to drink now and probably best drunk young.  The fruit comes from vines around 25 years old with a yield of just over 40 hl/ha. 50% is aged in 600 litre barrels and 50% in vat.

2008 Les Cris, Menetou-Salon, Domaine Pellé

The second, Les Cris, was from Domaine Henry Pellé and underlines this estate's claim to be considered the best estate of Menetou-Salon. The 2008 Les Cris has more concentration and complexity than the Laloue and, although it is enjoyable to drink now, will surely be better in two or three years time. Domaine Pellé now has 40 hectares and makes four reds: a straight Menetou-Salon, a Menetou-Salon Morogues (the commune where the domaine is based). Les Cris and, in 2000 and 2004, Z Coeur du Cris. Both Les Cris and Z Coeur du Cris are aged in barrel. 

3 March 2008

Fish Hoek Chenin Blanc 2008

A couple of bottles on taste yesterday. Firstly the sleek Fish Hoek 2008 Chenin Blanc from celebrated winemaker Bruce Jack in South Africa. Crisp, very well made with some peachy fruit and very attractive to drink as an aperitif or with seafood, although it does lack a little length. Loire producers could note that it is closed with a screwcap, although I was pleased to see that Baudry-Dutour now put their Chinon Blanc into this closure. Fish Hoek retails for £6.19 and is available in Booker, Premiere Retail Club, Somerfield, Somerfield, Spa, Tesco and Threshers.

2007 Sancerre Rouge, Domaine Serge Lalou

The 2007 Sancerre Rouge, Domaine Serge Lalou was one of the wines I picked out from the large Central Vineyards tasting I made in Sancerre in mid-December 2008. I have to admit some disappointment with this particulalr bottle. Although it had some weight and was quite impressive for 2007, there was a slight earthiness and an occasional mustiness about it. I don't think it was corked but the cork may have played a part as my notes indicate that it tasted better in December.

On Monday I phoned Charles Sydney, the long established Loire courtier, to see whether he had any reds form the Central Vineyards that were being sold in the UK. The call rapidly turned to the quality and value of these reds with Charles maintaining that there were few decent reds from this part of the Loire and even fewer worth the money – a view that I certainly didn’t agree with, especially having tasted over 160 of them just before Christmas.

We did agree that we approached this from very different perspectives – Charles trying to interest British retail buyers that these wines are good and worth the money, which is particularly difficult as the UK market is increasingly price-driven. I may or may not have crosses to bear but I’m extremely glad that I don’t have to sell wine to UK supermarkets for a living. Charles and Philippa, his wife, have been doing this for over 20 years now. Amazingly they are still reasonably sane.

Salon des Vins 2008: cake to celebrate Charles and Philippa's
20 years in the Loire

I’m in the fortunate position of being able to approach wines from the perspective of whether they are interesting and well made. Price is, of course, a factor but it isn’t dominant and I certainly don’t have to worry whether I can persuade a grower, who has already proposed a fair price, to give a lot more in promotions, BOGOFs and to take the pain each time the UK Chancellor of Exchequer raises excise duty or sterling crashes throw the floor against the Euro. No wonder many fine producers are increasingly happy to ignore the UK market.

Over the past month I have posted a number of comments on Central Vineyard reds. The 2006 Sancerre from Domaine Serge Laloue is further evidence that there are a number of very enjoyable Pinot Noirs now being made in Sancerre and elsewhere in the Central Vineyards. Made by Franck Laloue from a reasonable 45 hl/ha and costing 9.20€ this has attractive, soft vibrant red and black fruits and definite Pinot Noir character. Looking for something comparable in Burgundy, I would suggest something from the Côte Chalonnaise.

The Laloue Pinot Noir was picked by machine. Perhaps this would be even better if picked by hand. Talking to Didier Barrouillet just before New Year he said that Chardonnay and Cabernet – both Franc and Sauvignon – were the two varieties that could best support machine picking, whereas thinner skinned varieties like Pinot Noir are best hand picked.