RSJ Restaurant

Last night we had dinner with Jean-Pierre and Florence Chevallier (Château de Villeneuve) at the RSJ Restaurant in London's Waterloo. JP and Florence are over for their UK importer's Thorman Hunt tasting which is on today.

One hesitates to take non-Loire wines to the RSJ Restaurant. Out of some 200-250 references on the wine list, there are just nine outside the Loire Valley – three Champagnes, three Beaujolais, a Bordeaux red and two from New Zealand – a Sauvignon Blanc and a Riesling.

However, I thought it would be interesting, even though it might shake the restaurant to its core, to share some different bottles with the Chevalliers, so I took along:

1979 Riesling Clos Ste Hune. Trimbach 

The Riesling was decanted soon after I arrived and briefly served blind. Jean-Pierre immediately thought it was either an old Chenin or a Riesling – remarking that as wines from these two varieties quite often show considerable similarities with some age. Although not kept in the best conditions since we bought it sometime in the early 1980s at Trimbach in Ribeauville,  the 1979 showed well with dry honey on the nose, a steely edged richness that developed in the glass and clean blade-like Riesling acidity.

2000 Syrah, Montes Alpha

The 2000 Montes Alpha Syrah was also decanted and like the Riesling showed well and developed in glass. Mid-weight and attractively spicy with a smokiness and although different from a northern Rhône had a restrained finesse – certainly not in your face New World Shiraz. JP remarked that it went particulalry well with his duck breast.

We finished with a glass or so of the 2007 Les Rouannières from Château Pierre-Bise – zippy citrus fruits with lovely freshness, balance and precision.

Jean-Pierre Chevallier will be back at the RSJ with Yannick Amirault when they will be starring in a double bill – a tasting and dinner on Tuesday 13th April. 

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Decalaration: Jim is a consultant to the RSJ Restaurant.

Truly murky!

'permet à Sieur d’Arques d’assurer la traçabilité du grain de raisin – Merlot –> à la bouteille –> Pinot Noir'

Anyone visiting the Aimery Sieur d'Arques website can see the proud commitments made there – 'nos engagements':

'Assurer la Qualité Totale de son activité


Sieur d’Arques a depuis toujours cultivé le souci de la qualité. Dés 1997 la cave a été impliquée dans une démarche de certification et de sécurité alimentaire. En effet à partir de cette date Sieur d’Arques a commencé la mise en place de l’HACCP sur ses lignes de production, et a été certifiée ISO 9002 en 1999. Suite à l’évolution du référentiel, Sieur d’Arques a fait progresser son système qualité et répond désormais au travers de ses certifications à la norme ISO 9001 :2000 (depuis 1999 – renouvelé en 2008), la norme ISO 22000 :2005 (depuis 2006 – renouvelé en 2008) et le référentiel IFS version 5 niveau supérieur (depuis 2004 – renouvelé en 2008).

Une évaluation constante de ses vins


Dégustation des vins avant leur libération par des œnologues aguerris, dégustations comparatives réalisées par des structures compétentes de la filière, dégustations lors de salons nationaux et internationaux,… Sieur d’Arques dispose ici d’un processus efficace de dégustation de ses vins. Ce processus incontournable évalue la qualité globale des vins pour anticiper la satisfaction du consommateur.

La garantie d’une traçabilité maîtrisée


L’ensemble des enregistrements tout au long du process de fabrication des vins tranquilles et effervescents permet à Sieur d’Arques d’assurer la traçabilité du grain de raisin à la bouteille. Ce système de traçabilité est complémenté d’un dispositif éprouvé de gestion de crise qui permet de répondre avec une grande réactivité tout au long de la chaîne de fabrication et de distribution.

In the light of the Pinot scandal these ringing declarations are more than a little hollow – sadly or hilariously so depending on your point of view. Bearing in mind the volume of fake Pinot Noir that was sold through Sieur d'Arques to the Americans it is impossible now to read this paragraph with a straight face:

'Ensuring traceability control


The tracking process throughout the production of still and sparkling wines allows Sieur d’Arques to ensure traceability from the grape to the bottle. This traceability system is completed with a proven crisis management system which makes it easier to be pro-active throughout the entire production and distribution chains.'




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I am aware that there is technically a difference between the company that owns the website – Aimery Sieur d'Arques – and the company – Les Caves du Sieur d'Arques SARL SICA Cooperative – that sold the 'Pinot Noir', was condemned and fined by the court in Carcassonne. There is third Sieur d'Arques company – Les Vignerons du Sieur d'Arques Société Coopérative Agricole – which makes sparkling wine. However, their Aimery website generally uses Sieur d'Arques without qualification, Pierre Mirc is in charge of all three (his title varies) and Alain Gayda is the chief editor (redacteur en chef) of the Aimery website. Thus the distinction is surely technical. 

As well as assuring the 'traceability' of Merlot and Syrah into Pinot Noir, one can well imagine the renowned 'proven crisis management system' swinging into action when the news came through that the fraud squad had busted Claude Courset at Ducasse. A scene rich in comic potential:

"Holy shit!" "That stupid motherf*ck**!" What the f**k are we going to do?" "I'm an oenologist – I know nothing." " "We know nuffink!" "It wasn't us – it was 'im, officer!". "When the police ask –  just act stoopid!"