Charly Foucault plus assistant connecting the hose
Charly Foucault watching grapes and must going into vat down in cellar
Foucaults: at the sorting table
Thierry Germain checking grapes
Showing posts with label Thierry Germain. Show all posts
Thierry tasting down in his cellar
Early last Friday morning Nigel and I headed off to Saumur with a first stop with Thierry Germain (Domaine des Roches Neuves) in Varrains. First off we tasted the 2010 whites where Thierry continues to look for freshness and minerality, very different in style from the rich whites he made when he first arrived in Saumur back in the early 1990s. Solitaire 2010 Saumur Blanc, the second wine has minerality and balance. Isolite 2010, which is vinified and aged in a mix of 12 hl foudres and 500/600 litre barrels, has more ripeness and weight than Solitaire, although the finish is quite austere.
Thierry demonstrating how the vines are curled into each other
Before we started tasting we had a quick look at the Cabernet Franc vines by the winery. Thierry explained that they now have a trellis system with five wires to maximise the leaf area, and so maximise photosynthesis. He explained that they no longer trim the tops of the vines as is common practice throughout most of France. Instead the vine shoots are curled into the foliage, which appears to top them growing.
Then onto the reds. Firstly the 2010 Domaine des Roches Neuves, Saumur-Champigny with its vivid, easy drinking primary fruit from a short maceration. This cuvée has been bottled, while the rest of the reds we tasted from barrel. The 2010 Franc de Pied from ungrafted vines has an attractively soft texture and very pure black fruit flavours.
We finished down in the Roches Neuves extensive and warren-like cellars where the still unbottled , richly opulent and complex 2009 Marginale was particularly impressive.
From Thierry Germain's Roches Neuves in Varrains we crossed from the south of the Saumur-Champigny appellation to the north that overlooks the Loire. To Jean-Pierre and Florent Chevallier's Château de Villeneuve in Souzay-Champigny. Jean-Pierre is a close friend of Thierry's and his wines continue to be among the top wines from the Loire, although JP's quality tends to get less media coverage than they deserve.
Then onto the reds. Firstly the 2010 Domaine des Roches Neuves, Saumur-Champigny with its vivid, easy drinking primary fruit from a short maceration. This cuvée has been bottled, while the rest of the reds we tasted from barrel. The 2010 Franc de Pied from ungrafted vines has an attractively soft texture and very pure black fruit flavours.
We finished down in the Roches Neuves extensive and warren-like cellars where the still unbottled , richly opulent and complex 2009 Marginale was particularly impressive.
Further cellar shots
•••
Château de Villeneuve
From Thierry Germain's Roches Neuves in Varrains we crossed from the south of the Saumur-Champigny appellation to the north that overlooks the Loire. To Jean-Pierre and Florent Chevallier's Château de Villeneuve in Souzay-Champigny. Jean-Pierre is a close friend of Thierry's and his wines continue to be among the top wines from the Loire, although JP's quality tends to get less media coverage than they deserve.
We started with the yet to be bottled rich and lemony 2010 Saumur Blanc with its pure and mineral finish. JP said that due to a hail storm on 2nd May they will only have a very small harvest of Chenin Blanc this year. The 2009 Les Cormiers, which was vinified and aged in 12 hls foudres, needs time with the wood still showing a little but it has a fine mineral tension in the finish.
The new spring cuvée, 2010 Clos de la bienboire, is exactly what it is designed to be – deliciously, fruity. 2010 is the first commercial release, although JP made some in 2008 and 2009 as an experiment. The wine has no added sulphur, so needs careful handling and most of it will be sold locally. The 2009 domaine Saumur-Champigny is quite closed and tight needing time, so enjoy the Clos why this comes round. In contrast the floral and elegant 2009 Vieilles Vignes is more open and accessible. We finished with the finely structured 2009 Le Grand Clos with its silky texture. Presently closed in comparison to the VV, this has greater potential. Now 18€ a bottle from the domaine, it remains a bargain particularly in relation to Bordeaux wines of similar quality.
The new spring cuvée, 2010 Clos de la bienboire, is exactly what it is designed to be – deliciously, fruity. 2010 is the first commercial release, although JP made some in 2008 and 2009 as an experiment. The wine has no added sulphur, so needs careful handling and most of it will be sold locally. The 2009 domaine Saumur-Champigny is quite closed and tight needing time, so enjoy the Clos why this comes round. In contrast the floral and elegant 2009 Vieilles Vignes is more open and accessible. We finished with the finely structured 2009 Le Grand Clos with its silky texture. Presently closed in comparison to the VV, this has greater potential. Now 18€ a bottle from the domaine, it remains a bargain particularly in relation to Bordeaux wines of similar quality.
Although Villeneuve has been effectively organic for the last nine years, JP is now seeking certification so the domaine is now in its second year of formally converting to organic viticulture. Jean-Pierre talked about the improvements Saumur-Champigny over the past 20 years. How he had been ashamed of them in comparison to Bordeaux back in the early 1990s but that now was certainly not the case anymore. The days of picking unripe and adding sugar have gone for good producers. Jean-Pierre stopped chaptalising in 1993 and hasn't added sugar to any of his cuvées since then.
He spoke also of the influence on him of Charles Joguet, especially the wines from 1989 and 1990, which had convinced him of what was possible here.
He spoke also of the influence on him of Charles Joguet, especially the wines from 1989 and 1990, which had convinced him of what was possible here.
The church of Souzay-Champigny close to Villeneuve
Chinon to follow separately tomorrow.
From Sancerre looking towards Chavignol – taken fairly early in the morning?
It's another grey day here in Epeigné-les-Bois. I don't think we have come close to seeing the sun so far in 2011 – not even a glimpse of blue sky! So I'm spending some time today sorting out photos. Initially I file them under date and then later on sort them more precisely into places, portraits etc. That's the theory anyway but I'm always behind.
Although it takes time, it is worth doing otherwise I lose track of where pictures are filed. Also in sorting I find pictures that are worth posting – others need to be binned. Will be adding more during the course of the day.
The slopes between Amigny and Chavignol (part of village on right)
Sancerre: September 2007
Since starting to post the grey gloom has lifted and now there are a few glimpses of blue sky even a ray of thin sunshine from time to time.
View near Badia di Morrona, Terricciola, Italia (November 2006)
Philippe Germain (Château de la Roulerie, Anjou) in full flow@RSJ Restaurant's 25th anniversary celebrations: July 2005
Thierry Germain (Domaine des Roches Neuves, Saumur)@same event
Santiago (Chile): reflections – above and below
1990 Terres Chaudes, Saumur-Champigny, Denis Duveau
On Monday night we had a very interesting comparison between two Saumur-Champignys from the same property but with different owners. I bought half a dozen or so of the 1990 Terres Chaudes at Majestic Wine Warehouses in the UK sometime in the early 1990s I guess. I can't remember what I paid for them – not very much I suspect.
1990 was the last vintage made by Denis Duveau before he sold the estate to Thierry Germain in 1991 – the year of the severe April frost and not the best time to start a new venture. Still Thierry has survived and prospered.
The second bottle was 1995 Le Marginale. This was a new cuvée that Thierry introduced with malo en barrique and I think the 1995 would have see a fair proportion of new wood. 1995 may well have been the first vintage of Marginale. I must check up on my notes of a vertical of Marginale from late january 2009.
We drank the two bottles with a very good joint of beef from the CocciMarket in Francueil – this well stocked shop includes a very good butcher's section. I decided to serve the 1990 first. It was delicious with lovely, soft ripe evolved fruit and very silky tannins – overall beautifully balanced. Not a heavyweight but with lots of finesse and typical of the seductive 1990 vintage. Still quite youthful in colour, I don't think this will get any better but also should continue to be enjoyable over the next few years.
1995 Marginale was a much bigger, more structured, butch wine. Also showing well but without the seductive charm of the 1990 Terres Chaudes. Equally representative of its vintage that had high levels of tannin and acidity. 1995 Loire reds have taken a considerable time to come round. I suspect that this Marginale is now around its peak
1990 was the last vintage made by Denis Duveau before he sold the estate to Thierry Germain in 1991 – the year of the severe April frost and not the best time to start a new venture. Still Thierry has survived and prospered.
The second bottle was 1995 Le Marginale. This was a new cuvée that Thierry introduced with malo en barrique and I think the 1995 would have see a fair proportion of new wood. 1995 may well have been the first vintage of Marginale. I must check up on my notes of a vertical of Marginale from late january 2009.
We drank the two bottles with a very good joint of beef from the CocciMarket in Francueil – this well stocked shop includes a very good butcher's section. I decided to serve the 1990 first. It was delicious with lovely, soft ripe evolved fruit and very silky tannins – overall beautifully balanced. Not a heavyweight but with lots of finesse and typical of the seductive 1990 vintage. Still quite youthful in colour, I don't think this will get any better but also should continue to be enjoyable over the next few years.
1995 Marginale was a much bigger, more structured, butch wine. Also showing well but without the seductive charm of the 1990 Terres Chaudes. Equally representative of its vintage that had high levels of tannin and acidity. 1995 Loire reds have taken a considerable time to come round. I suspect that this Marginale is now around its peak
Last PLace on Earth, Bramley Street London W11
Eric Narioo and his Les Caves team continue to bravely and fearlessly explore West London's 'badlands'. Last year it was Porchester Hall. For 2010 they moved a little further west down the tubeline to Latimer Road.
Eric Narioo, one of the wine trade's leading lights
As usual Les Caves' invitation nailed their colours and beliefs to the mast – no room for ambiguity here! Real wines – natural wines and a lack of 'imaginary' bottles... Last week's demonstration of natural wines by Dynamic Vines was in this sector of London – perhaps it has a particular affinity with this style of wine.
Althugh there were many enticing things to taste from across the world, I unfortunately only had time for those from the Loire and a few others. Incidentally a different type of reality – flight restrictions due to volcanic ash – had hit this "real wine" tasting preventing around 35 out of the 60 growers from making it to London.
Tasting 'real or natural' wine is always interesting and an intellectual challenge. At what point along the drinkability continium do the faults or 'natural' characters outweigh its virtues and render it so bizarre or off the wall that it is no longer a pleasant drink? With one exception all were well on the right side of the drinkability continium.Little sign of jihadism in this selection of Loire producers!
The notion of a complete non-interventionist approach to wine-making is probably a caricature. Carried to its exteme you would wiat until the grapes fell from the vine. Good winemakers realise that you have to intervene – deciding when to pick, how long to macerate etc. I always think it is rather like cooking. Yes often using simple ingredients simply cooked is the best. But this doesn't mean you don't have to pay close attention to detail. Simply grilled fish is delcious if you get it right but there is a very narrow window when it is just right – a few seconds either way will give you either underdone or overdone fish. Often just less than a minute too much is enough to ruin that wonderful moist texture perfect fish has.
Good cooking tends to demand that you are at the stove not trying to do two things at the same time – off elsewhere catching up on emails or digging the garden leading all too often to burnt offerings.
Tasting 'real or natural' wine is always interesting and an intellectual challenge. At what point along the drinkability continium do the faults or 'natural' characters outweigh its virtues and render it so bizarre or off the wall that it is no longer a pleasant drink? With one exception all were well on the right side of the drinkability continium.Little sign of jihadism in this selection of Loire producers!
The notion of a complete non-interventionist approach to wine-making is probably a caricature. Carried to its exteme you would wiat until the grapes fell from the vine. Good winemakers realise that you have to intervene – deciding when to pick, how long to macerate etc. I always think it is rather like cooking. Yes often using simple ingredients simply cooked is the best. But this doesn't mean you don't have to pay close attention to detail. Simply grilled fish is delcious if you get it right but there is a very narrow window when it is just right – a few seconds either way will give you either underdone or overdone fish. Often just less than a minute too much is enough to ruin that wonderful moist texture perfect fish has.
Good cooking tends to demand that you are at the stove not trying to do two things at the same time – off elsewhere catching up on emails or digging the garden leading all too often to burnt offerings.
I'm convinced that it is close attention to detail – lots of small things that makes a greater whole – is one thing that marks a real good producer. This is as true at this tasting of 'Real Wine' as it is elsewhere. Take Thierry Germain (Domaine des Roches Neuves) in Saumur. Since he arrived in 1991 Thierry has changed his wine styles considerably – always questioning. At one point he was making rich, full reds and whites with quite high alcohol. Now Thierry is looking for purity, minerality and precision. One could perhaps criticise him for moving from one extreme to another but to change the style involves intervention and it is evident that he pays close attention to detail.
Some quick comments on wines tasted:
Domaine Pellé – Anne Pellé (Menetou-Salon)
Always very consistent. The 2008 whites showing good concentration and ripeness.
Domaine Pellé – Anne Pellé (Menetou-Salon)
Always very consistent. The 2008 whites showing good concentration and ripeness.
Domaine des Roches Neuves – Thierry Germain (Saumur and Saumur-Champigny)
2008 Isolite precise and quite austere. 2008 reds have sweet initial fruit but flirt with greeness in the finish.
Domaine Catherine and Pierre Breton – Pierre Breton (Bourgueil, Chinon and Vouvray)
The Vouvrays continue to be better than the reds.
Domaine de la Chevalerie (Bourgueil)
Good range of medium weight reds.
Domaine Jean Maupertuis (Côtes d'Auvergne)
Having seen this domaine mentioed favourably on a number of occasions wasn't convinced by the two Gamays from 2009.
Frantz Saumon
Domaine Frantz Saumon (Montlouis plus négoce activity under Un Saumon dans La Loire)
This was the most exciting range of wines I tasted having lovely purity and vibrancy, particularly from the 2008s and the 2009s. Interestting to see Frantz starting a small negociant activity. I liked the Menu Pineau (sourced from Saint-Aignan) and the Romorantin (from Philippe Tessier in Cour-Cheverny).
Un Saumon dans La Loire: 2009 Romorantin
Domaine Sébastien Riffault – Sébastien Riffault (Sancerre)
I'll happily admit that I haven't got to grips with Sébastien's wines. I have only ever tasted them not drunk a glass with food. I find their oxidative nature masks both their grape variety and the terroir. They may well be drinkable but they are not Sancerre.
For Jamie Goode's take on this tasting click here to go to the Wine Anorak.
http://www.wineanorak.com:/wineblog/natural-wine/natural-wines-what-are-they-exactly
Tuesday 12th May 2009 London International Wine Trade Fair, Excel
The day started with an excellent presentation of the Great Wine Estates of Western Australia by Andrew Caillard MW to a masterclass run by the Circle of Wine Writers. Andrew is head of the wine department of Langton’s, Australia’s leading auctioneers.
Bulles de RocThe rest of my day was devoted to visiting the various Loire producers at the fair and tasting their wines.
First up I saw the always ebullient Philippe Germain. The 2008 Chenin, Anjou Blanc is has attractively crisp, grapefruit flavours, some weight and length. The 2008 Solitaire, Saumur Blanc from Philippe’s elder brother, Thierry, has a similar accent on grapefruit and minerality.
Then something entirely new from Thierry and Michel Chevré – a sparkling Saumur called Bulles de Roc. 100% Chenin Blanc with no dosage. It has attractive weight and fine lemony finish. A delicious fizz – unfortunately only 3600 bottles have been produced.
Domaine Nebout has 45 hectares in Saint-Pourçain with 60% planted with red varieties – Pinot Noir and Gamay. Julian Nebout took over the family estate three years ago from his father Serge.
I started with the melon fruited Blanc Tradition 2007 – 75% Chardonnay and 25% Tressalier. Then I moved onto the more interesting 2007 Le Tressallière des Gravières. Here Tressallier, the local variety, makes up 90% of the blend with Chardonnay 10%. 10% is vinified and matured in oak. Tressallier is thought to be a local variant of the Sacy, a grape variety found in the Yonne. It is also believed to be a relation of Chenin Blanc. There are now only 40 hectares of Tressallier left – all in Saint-Pourçain. Tressallier is usually picked in early October. Le Gravières comes from vineyards close to the Allier, the major tributary to the Loire and it has attractive rich, concentrated fruit balanced with a mineral and citric finish.
Julien Nebout with the 2007 Le Tressallière des Gravières On this evidence the vignerons of Saint-Pourçain ought to be planting more Tressallier. Hopefully this will happen as there is now a much greater appreciation of good indigenous varieties, the importance of preserving them and thus keeping wine’s individuality.
The two reds I found less convincing. Firstly 2006 La Malgarnie – a blend of 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Gamay. It has sweet brambly fruit, some weight but lacks zip and lift in the finish. I’m not convinced that Gamay and Pinot Noir is a successful blend and cannot recall ever having tasted a good one. Then the 100% Pinot Noir 2007 Elevé-en-barrique – some sweet fruit but lacking definition.
Bernard Chereau and 2003 Le Clos Next to see a relieved Bernard Chereau of Chereau-Carre (Muscadet-de-Sèvre-et-Maine). Now clear of the threat of frost, Bernard said that this year there had been a good and regular sortie (good number of potential bunches of grapes). I tasted a couple of 2008s – L’Oiselinière de la Ramée and Château de Chasseloir, which have yet to be bottled. I preferred the Chasseloir – more concentration and length with lemon and hazelnut flavours. The 2007 Chasseloir is more austere than the 2008, reflecting the vintage difference. The 2005 Comte Leloup de Chasseloir is very different from the 2007 and 2008s tasted. Made from 100 year old vines it has considerable richness and concentration, although its lemony finish gives it balance. The last wine was Le Clos 2003 one of the Haute Expression Muscadets that are aged for more than a year on their lees. It has the typical weight and concentration of 2003 but retains a freshness that makes Le Clos elegant and attractive.
Staying with Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine I tasted wines from Jean Aubron at L'Audigère, Vallet. Jean Aubron has 84 hectares of vines. Of these 71 are planted with Melon de Bourgogne including the 11-hectare. Clos de l’Audigère. The balance is rest made up of Gros Plant, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. Unfortunately the first bottle of 2008 Grand Fief de l’Audigère Tradition had some cork taint – once again emphasising that a delicate white like Muscadet really should not long be closed with cork. All Muscadet ought now to be in screwcap. Of the two 2008s I tasted I preferred the weightier Grand Fief de l’Audigère Vieilles Vignes with its attractive mineral finish.
I finished with the 2003 Grand Fief de l’Audigère Vieilles Vignes, which like the Chereau -Carre 2003 Le Clos is also showing well, despite the belief in some quarters that the heatwave vintage of 2003 produced ungainly wines. Certainly it is rich and weighty for a Muscadet but it has a touch of bitterness along with minerality in the finish that stops it being cloying.
Staying with Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine I tasted wines from Jean Aubron at L'Audigère, Vallet. Jean Aubron has 84 hectares of vines. Of these 71 are planted with Melon de Bourgogne including the 11-hectare. Clos de l’Audigère. The balance is rest made up of Gros Plant, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. Unfortunately the first bottle of 2008 Grand Fief de l’Audigère Tradition had some cork taint – once again emphasising that a delicate white like Muscadet really should not long be closed with cork. All Muscadet ought now to be in screwcap. Of the two 2008s I tasted I preferred the weightier Grand Fief de l’Audigère Vieilles Vignes with its attractive mineral finish.
I finished with the 2003 Grand Fief de l’Audigère Vieilles Vignes, which like the Chereau -Carre 2003 Le Clos is also showing well, despite the belief in some quarters that the heatwave vintage of 2003 produced ungainly wines. Certainly it is rich and weighty for a Muscadet but it has a touch of bitterness along with minerality in the finish that stops it being cloying.
(To be continued.....)
1 February 2009
The elegant front of La RoulerieFollowing the Renaissance des Appellations tasting at Les Greniers Saint-Jean in Angers, Tom King (RSJ Wine Company) and I headed off to Saint-Aubin-de-Luigné in the Layon to see Philippe Germain at Château de la Roulerie. Although Philippe has been living at La Roulerie since 2001, and since 2004 has been making the wine with his older brother, Thierry (Domaine des Roches Neuves in Saumur), 2008 was the first year they had made wine at La Roulerie. Previously the wine had made at Château de Fesles in Bonnezeaux.
Philippe Germain drawing a sample of 2008 Anjou BlancPhilippe’s father, Bernard Germain, bought Fesles in 1996 along with Château de la Guimonière and Château de la Roulerie from pastry chef Gaston Lenotre, who died at the beginning of 2009. Lenotre had bought them in a fit of enthusiasm in 1991 following the wonderful vintages of 1989 and 1990, which unfortunately were followed by the severely frosted 1991, very mediocre 1992, average 1993 and difficult 1994. I fancy Lenotre had little inkling of the risk involved in making great sweet wine in the Loire nor that, if you do succeed, it is decidedly difficult to sell.
At the height of his pomp Bernard had 300 hectares of vine – 200 in Bordeaux and 100 in Anjou. Unfortunately Bernard ran into financial problems and last year (23rd June) was obliged to sell Fesles to Grands Chais de France. There had already been a meeting of the family in 2006 when Philippe and Thierry apparently declined to take on Fesles. During the course of our visit I asked Philippe how his father was. His guarded reply suggested that relations between the two brothers and their father at present are unfortunately not good.
Some of the grounds and the vineyardsFirst and foremost Philippe is a salesman and this, allied with his natural enthusiasm at making his first vintage at Roulerie in the hastily renovated chai, produced a vintage performance which not even a very painful dental complaint could temper. Following Philippe around the cellar tasting from 400 litre barrels we were regaled with an almost continuous commentary that included frequent repetitions of “chers messieurs”, “très sincerement” and other similar phrases. Apparently wine has not been made here for nearly 20 years since Dominique Jadeau sold the property to Lenôtre.
Philippe in full flight!Philippe: “In 2008 we made 40% of normal – 538 hls compared to 730 hls in 2007 and 850 hls in 2006. The summer was catastrophic. The grape skins were very thick and there was little juice. At La Roulerie we have 24 hectares, which are in 22 separate parcels.
The focus is on Philippe!We only tasted 2008s including the mineral La Petite Roulerie from vines between 20 and 25 years old that overlook Saint-Aubin and the richer and fuller Les Terrasses, planted on grey schist. We tasted Les Terrasses from both barrel and from a 27 hl wooden conical vat that Philippe has on test. We also tasted the rich, black fruited 2008 Anjou Rouge, which will be bottled in March. “Normally we would make 180 hls of this wine,” said Philippe, “in 2008 we only made 94 hls. We were hit by frost on 23rd/24th April and then later by mildew.”
The conical wooden vat As with other Layon producers the hopes of a good sweet vintage which developed during the fine October weather were cruelly dashed by continuous rain in November. The 1er Tri of the 27th/28th October has 55 gms of residual sugar and is a quite rich blend of honey and citric flavours. It should be an attractive easy drinking Layon to enjoy young.
The Layon was still bathed in brilliantly bright sunshine when we left Philippe to get ready to entertain a group of merchants, out for the Salon, to dinner.
Philippe Germain, Château de la Roulerie, 49190 Saint-Aubin-de-Luigné
Tel: 02.41.68.94.00
Email: loire@vgas.com
Web: www.vgas.com
Hotel du Mail, Angers Very good to be back in the Loire – seems a while since I was last here. We had an excellent drive down from Calais in very good conditions to our first visit with Thierry Germain@Domaine des Roches Neuves in Varrains, close to Saumur. Our appointment was for 4pm and we arrived at 4.01! If it hadn't been for a broken down car in the Eurotunnel shuttle that held us up briefly we would have been early. Plenty of activity going on at Thierry's getting ready to faire à fête over the weekend plus a meeting with Antoine Gerbelle, La Revue du Vin de France, on Saturday morning for a tasting including a vertical of Marginale.
Theirry's German importer was there plus Thomas, producer from Calce in the Roussillon, who also supplies barrels to Thierry.
Following Thierry we moved onto Jean-Pierre Chevallier and then to Angers where we ate with Christophe and Claire Daviau (Domaine de Bablut) at Une Ile, after having checked into the Hotel du Mail where I have stayed for more years than I can remember. Certainly recommended as it is a friendly hotel, right in the centre but quiet.
This post has been written in haste as we are now off for a full day of visits in Anjou starting with Claude Papin (Château Pierre-Bise). Post will be revised and expanded – hopefully later today.
Theirry's German importer was there plus Thomas, producer from Calce in the Roussillon, who also supplies barrels to Thierry.
Following Thierry we moved onto Jean-Pierre Chevallier and then to Angers where we ate with Christophe and Claire Daviau (Domaine de Bablut) at Une Ile, after having checked into the Hotel du Mail where I have stayed for more years than I can remember. Certainly recommended as it is a friendly hotel, right in the centre but quiet.
This post has been written in haste as we are now off for a full day of visits in Anjou starting with Claude Papin (Château Pierre-Bise). Post will be revised and expanded – hopefully later today.
Cabernet Franc in one of Thierry Germain's vineyards (Domaine des Roches Neuves) 2.10.2008
Wandering around the vineyards yesterday, the grapes especially the Cabernet Franc look good. A dog out for a walk in the vineyards clearly thought they were delicious as he munched his way through several bunches in quick succession. The pips and stalks are changing colour and the fruit looks good with very little sign of rot so far. Unfortunately the weather forecast is not that good for next week with some rain likely. A small amount would be helpful – lowering the acidity but prolonged rain would not be good.
Cabernet Franc in one of Thierry Germain's vineyards
Last evening there was a brief scare – a little hail just before 7pm around Dampierre, just to the east of Saumur. Fortunately it didn’t come down with much force and it didn’t last. As far as I know it did little or no damage. Hail is never good but at this time would be catastrophic – lacerate the grapes, which would soon turn rotten.
A bunch of Chenin Blanc@Brezé 2.10.2008
Picking of the Chenin Blanc for still wines is just starting – Jean-Pierre Chevallier (Château de Villeneuve) started yesterday and Thierry Germain (Domaine des Roches Neuves) hopes to start today if the weather holds. His Chenin is between 12.5%-13% potential and between 6.5 and 7.5 acidity. “The acidity levels are dropping,” said Thierry. He intends to start on his Cabernet Franc on Wednesday. “They were at 12.2% potential last Friday with the acidity at 5.5."
Saumur-Champigny: looking towards hamlet of Chaintres.
“With the high acidity levels and their thick skins the 2008 reds will be complicated to vinify well,” he says. “It will be very important not to extract a lot of tannin. With the white I will do a less severe débourbage (juice settling) than usual.”
Thierry Germain in his parcel of ungrafted, échalas vines.
We went with Thierry on a quick drive to look at his vines. This took in a visit to his small parcel (15 ares – .15 ha) franc pieds vines (ungrafted vines) near the Saumur Hospital planted using the old system of échalas (cultivation around a pole). Thierry’s 15 ares are planted with Cabernet Franc to the equivalent density of 10,000 vines per hectare – the average density in the region is 5500 per hectare. He is very excited as he will get the first crop off them this year as they were planted in 2004/5. “I love their purity of flavour – their freshness,” says Thierry. “The flavour is totally different to grapes from grafted vines.” This fruit will be vinified separately in 400 litre open topped barrels. Thierry hopes to get a few vintages from them before the vines are destroyed by phylloxera. The soil is sandy clay over limestone, so with luck it may take a little while for the phylloxera to get at them. “I’ve long had a dream to cultivate vines using this old system (échalas) that you’ll find in parts of Burgundy.” It can also be found in the Mosel.
"I'm nearly as tall as my vines!"
Cabernet Franc in one of Thierry Germain's vineyards (Domaine des Roches Neuves). 2.10.2008
Unripe grapillons (second generation in background)
Unripe grapillons (second generation in background)
Last evening there was a brief scare – a little hail just before 7pm around Dampierre, just to the east of Saumur. Fortunately it didn’t come down with much force and it didn’t last. As far as I know it did little or no damage. Hail is never good but at this time would be catastrophic – lacerate the grapes, which would soon turn rotten.
A bunch of Chenin Blanc@Brezé 2.10.2008Picking of the Chenin Blanc for still wines is just starting – Jean-Pierre Chevallier (Château de Villeneuve) started yesterday and Thierry Germain (Domaine des Roches Neuves) hopes to start today if the weather holds. His Chenin is between 12.5%-13% potential and between 6.5 and 7.5 acidity. “The acidity levels are dropping,” said Thierry. He intends to start on his Cabernet Franc on Wednesday. “They were at 12.2% potential last Friday with the acidity at 5.5."
Saumur-Champigny: looking towards hamlet of Chaintres.“With the high acidity levels and their thick skins the 2008 reds will be complicated to vinify well,” he says. “It will be very important not to extract a lot of tannin. With the white I will do a less severe débourbage (juice settling) than usual.”
Thierry Germain in his parcel of ungrafted, échalas vines. We went with Thierry on a quick drive to look at his vines. This took in a visit to his small parcel (15 ares – .15 ha) franc pieds vines (ungrafted vines) near the Saumur Hospital planted using the old system of échalas (cultivation around a pole). Thierry’s 15 ares are planted with Cabernet Franc to the equivalent density of 10,000 vines per hectare – the average density in the region is 5500 per hectare. He is very excited as he will get the first crop off them this year as they were planted in 2004/5. “I love their purity of flavour – their freshness,” says Thierry. “The flavour is totally different to grapes from grafted vines.” This fruit will be vinified separately in 400 litre open topped barrels. Thierry hopes to get a few vintages from them before the vines are destroyed by phylloxera. The soil is sandy clay over limestone, so with luck it may take a little while for the phylloxera to get at them. “I’ve long had a dream to cultivate vines using this old system (échalas) that you’ll find in parts of Burgundy.” It can also be found in the Mosel.
"I'm nearly as tall as my vines!"
