(Originally posted on Les 5 du Vin)
On Saturday I went along to Vitiloire (http://www.tours.fr/vitiloire/index.php). This is a consumer wine fair held in the centre of Tours, which celebrates Loire wines from Nantes by the Atlantic to the Côte de Forez deep in the Auvergne.
Vitiloire 2011 is the 9th edition and somehow it is the first one that I have managed to attend – a shame because it was brilliant with 116 producers showing their wines. It helped, of course, that the weekend was warm and sunny.
Time for lunch – an opportunity to graze from the many food stalls
Among the 116 producers present there were a good number that I did not know, so it was an excellent opportunity to try their wines rather than sticking with vignerons whose wines I already know. This worked very well as there were a number that impressed me.
Pierre Van Den Boom
First off was Pierre Van Den Boom (Domaine de l’Enchantoir) in Le Puy Notre Dame. I was impressed by his two Saumur Blancs (100% Chenin Blanc). The 2009 Domaine (6€) has lightly floral aromas with a hint a honey and an attractive texture with some weight. The 2007 Cuvée Madeleine (8.50€), which is vinified in oak, is more complex and mineral with the precision and austerity associated with the 2007 vintage. I also liked his 2009 Le Pied à l’étrier (7.20€), a red with the new Saumur Le Puy-Notre Dame appellation with its black fruits and structure. I thought this cuvée was more successful then the 2008 Clos du Petit Chavannes, a cuvée prestige where the oak dominated the fruit.
Pascal Janvier
Pascal Janvier
There were several producers from Jasnières and the Coteaux du Loir illustrating that, although this small area is nevertheless one of the Loire’s most dynamic. Pascal Janvier has a total of 9.5 hectares – six in Jasnières. His 2010 Coteaux du Loir (100% Chenin) is charming as well as precise and balanced with its 13 grams of residual sugar. The 2010 Cuvée des Silex, Jasnières is more austere with only 3.5 grams of residual sugar but has character, greater minerality and length. To finish the 2010 Cuvée Sainte Narcisse a delicately sweet Jasnières with 55 grams of residual sugar. This would make a very attractive aperitif or to serve with blue cheese even foie gras but not a dessert.
Régis Breton
My next new Jasnières producer was Régis Breton (Domaine Percheron), whose first vintage was 2008. Previously he had been maître de chai for Michel Boulay. Régis has five hectares – 3.5 in Jasnières. His wines are clean, precise and well made with my favourite being the quite austere 2008 Coteaux du Loir with 6 grams of residual.
Finally another Rémi but not from Jasnières but instead one of the small number of Noble Joué producers. Noble Joué has its own Touraine appellation and is made from three Pinots – Noir, Meunier and Gris. Rémi Cosson has four hectares of vines. His 2010 Noble Joué would be a delightful apéritif with its youthful, floral aromas, ripe texture balanced by crisp acidity. Cosson's Noble Joué is on the list of the Agnès Sorel restaurant in Genillé, where the 22€ menu is a bargain.
Rémi Cosson
Over its two days Vitiloire attracts some 20,000 visitors. I noted a high proportion of young enthusiasts – there to discover the Loire’s diversity and no sign of people out to get drunk.
The organisers of Vitiloire say that the 2011 edition attracted 25,000 visitors and that 7000 tasting glasses were sold@5€ each. Attendance was up by 20% on 2010.
