Sign for La Mère Hamard





La Mère Hamard

Last night we finally got to stay at La Mère Hamard in the small village of Semblançay, just to the north of Tours. We had tried to stay here in 1987 when the group that bought the house in Epeigné-les-Bois came out that February on a scouting/buying expedition. Either La Mère Hamard was full up or more likely given the time of year it was closed. Instead we stayed at Les Fontaines at the western end of Rochecorbon, which actually turned out to be more convenient for most of the places we looked at during that slightly extended weekend. Subsequently, of course, we have not had the need to find a hotel in this area. Last night was an exception as the house was full and we needed somewhere to stop on the way down to Pauillac, so a good opportunity to try La Mère Hamard, which has been an hotel since at least 1903 though with many changes of ownership.

We weren't disappointed with the recently refurbished rooms and a good dinner outside on a gloriously warm evening. Our experience was capped this morning when the chef recognising that one of our party, who has reduced mobility would have trouble getting up the stairs to the upstairs breakfast room, set us up with our own special table downstairs.

The Chef

We set the mood of the evening by starting with a bottle of the 2008 Clos de la Bretonnière, Vouvray from Jacky and Joëlle Blot's Domaine de la Taille aux Loups. There was a choice of vintage and I opted for the 2008 in preference to the 2009. The 2008 is more austere, more mineral than the more opulent 2009, which doesn't have the same precision as the 2008.

   

 

We followed this with Yannick Amirault's 2006 Les Malgagnes, St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, which is drinking well now with its soft opulent black fruits. 2006s are generally attractive and ready to drink although they lack some of the complexity and structure of the 2005s, which is very likely to be the long lived vintage.  

La Mère Hamard, which is conveniently situated for the A28 autoroute (Rouen to Tours) is certainly recommended for anyone looking for a comfortable stop when journeying through France. 

   

2010 Noble Joué, Rémi Cosson

We were so impressed with the Restaurant Agnès Sorel in Genillé (under new ownership – Nicolas et Estelle Petit – for just over a year) when we ate there in December that we went back with friends last night. We had an excellent and very enjoyable meal. The three course menu at 22€ is extremely good value.

We kicked off with a bottle of the 2010 Noble Joué (AC Touraine Noble Joué – a blend of three Pinots: Noir, Gris and Meunier) from Remi Cosson in Esvres-sur-Indre  – a delicate shade of pink, an attractive balance of ripe red fruits and refreshing acidity. Made a very good aperitif and went well with the smoked salmon and gravalax that most of us chose. CRM went for the aparagus soup, which was delicious.

Chapeau! beautifully presented aparagus soup   

Main course was a choice of sea bream or nine-hour cooked belly of pork – two of us chose the fish and two the belly. The belly was excellent and was well partnered by Yannick Amirault's medium weight 2008 La Mine, Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, which is drinking well now but can be happily kept for a few years more.

We finished with CRM choosing the crèpe wrapped around a baked apple, while I went for the gauffre (waffle) with blackberry purée and icecream – a fitting finale.  

Although further confirmation wasn't really required the six wines from Yannick Amirault shown at last week's Thorman Hunt tasting demonstrated once again the quality of these wines and that Yannick is one of the Loire's top wine producers. Unfortunately Yannick wasn't over this year for the tasting but his wines spoke for him.

2008 Les Quartiers, Bourgueil

There were three wines from each appellation starting with the 2008 Les Quartiers Bourgueil (£11.17 ex VAT) with soft, juicy fruit. From vines planted on clay and limestone this is delicious to drink now. The silky and charming 2008 La Coudraye (£8.67 ex VAT) has a little more structure with a slightly longer finish. La Coudraye comes from vines planted on clay-flint and sand.

2008 Le Grand Clos, Bourgueil

Certainly the most concentrated and structured of the three Bourgueils from clay and flint vineyards on the limestone coteau. Although it can be drunk now especially if decanted in advance, Le Grand Clos (£11.50 ex VAT) would be best cellared for another three or four years.

On to the Saint-Nicolas with the youthful 2009 La Source (£9.17 ex VAT) with its aromas of violets and flavours a mix of sweet red and black fruits from vines planted on sand and gravel. Next was the 2008 La Mine (£10.63), which is more edgy and less opulent than the 2008 Bourgueils. It may just need some more time. Then back to the 2009 Malgagnes (showing all the rich, opulent, silky fruit usually associated with the 2009 vintage. This comes from vines on clay and flint on the limestone coteaux. Some of the vines here were planted in 1936 with the rest being planted in 1973 and 1994. 

 

Jean-Pierre Chevallier and Yannick Amirault

 We had a wonderful evening with Yannick Amirault (Bourgueil and Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil) and Jean-Pierre Chevallier (Château de Villeneuve – Saumur and Saumur-Champigny) presenting their wines at the RSJ Restaurant (Waterloo, London).  

Wines tasted 

Jean-Pierre Chevallier (Château de Villeneuve)
2001 Les Cormiers, Saumur Blanc
2007 Saumur Champigny 
2005 Le Grand Clos, Saumur-Champigny
1999 Le Grand Clos, Saumur-Champigny  

Yannick Amirault
2008 Coudraye, Bourgueil
2007Le Grand Clos, Bourgueil
2003 La Petite Cave, Bourgueil
2002 La Petite Cave, Bourgueil

Dinner                                                                                    
2008 Saumur Blanc, Château de Villeneuve

2007 La Mine, Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourguei, Yannick Amirault
2000 Saumur-Champigny, Château de Villeneuve
2006 Vieilles Vignes Saumur Champigny, Château de Villeneuve
2006 Les Quartiers, Bourgueil, Yannick Amirault

 Yannick Amirault

Dinner menu
Pan roasted scallops with wild mushroom risotto

Roast rib-eye of beef, spring vegetables, Jersey royals, red wine jus

Dessert: strawberry buttermilk pudding

Notes on wines to follow

Yannick Amirault in his cellar

There are still a few places left for chance to meet and taste the wines of Yannick Amirault (Bourgueil and Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil) and Jean-Pierre Chevallier (Château de Villeneuve – Saumur and Saumur-Champigny) over a special dinner at the RSJ Restaurant in London's Waterloo.

Yannick and Jean-Pierre are among my favourite Loire producers and both make remarkable wines. This should be a fascinating evening and rare opportunity to meet these two excellent producers.

Jean-Pierre Chevallier during the 2008 harvest

Pre-dinner tasting
Jean-Pierre Chevallier (Château de Villeneuve)
2005 Les Cormiers, Saumur Blanc
2008 Saumur Champigny 
2005 Le Grand Clos, Saumur-Champigny   
1999 Le Grand Clos, Saumur-Champigny  

Yannick Amirault (to be confirmed)
2007 Grand Clos, Bourgueil
2007 Coudraye, Bourgueil
2006 Malgagnes, Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil
2006 La Mine, Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil

Dinner                                                                                    
2008 Saumur Blanc
2007 Saumur Champigny                                                  
2006 Vieilles Vignes Saumur-Champigny                               
2007 La Mine, Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil 
2006 Les Quartiers, Bourgueil  

Tickets are £45 each and this includes an opportunity to taste a number of wines from JP and Yannick and then a three course dinner.   

Dinner menu:
Pan roasted scallops with wild mushroom risotto

Roast rib-eye of beef, spring vegetables, Jersey royals, red wine jus

Pudding - George, the pastry chef, to decide on Monday!

To reserve your place please phone Nigel Wilkinson@The RSJ Restaurant on 020-7928 4554.

Jean-Pierre Chevallier (Château de Villeneuve)

I'm delighted that two of my favourite Loire producers – Yannick Amirault (Bourgueil and Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil) and Jean-Pierre Chevallier (Saumur-Champigny and Saumur) – will be presenting their wines at the RSJ on Tuesday 13th April. Both Yannick and Jean-Pierre are meticulous producers and this is shown by the consistent quality of their wines year in year out.

Yannick Amirault drawing a barrel sample from his cave in the Bourgueil hillside

Some of the details of the format of the evening are yet to be decided but it may well be that there will be a walk around tasting followed by dinner with a few wines selected by Yannick and Jean-Pierre to go with the meal. Cost of the event is £45.

To reserve you place please contact Tom King on 020-7928 4554 or tom.king@rsj.uk.com
RSJ Restaurant, 33 Coin Street, London SE1

The RSJ Restaurant celebrates its 30th birthday this year and this is one of a series of producer events to celebrate the anniversary. I have been a consultant to the RSJ since 1989/1990.

Details of other producer dinners here in 2010.

Jérôme Billard (Domaine de la Noblaie, Chinon) takes testing Cabernet Franc to extremes!

Rather than adopt Jérôme's whole cluster tactic, Philippe Boucard (Lamé Delisle-Boucard) prefers the single berry approach

Just passed a most enjoyable day 'taking the temperature' in these three appellations now well started in picking the 2009s. The forecast last Sunday for this coming week was pretty depressing – a hitherto largely favourable forecast had completely turned around with the prediction of a week of frequently rain. When it started to rain around 7am on Monday I feared the worst. Fortunately once the rain stopped in eastern Touraine around 10.30-11am, there has been little rain apart from a downpour early evening last night. However, Chinon etc. has been much less rain this week and the grapes still largely look wonderfully good and healthy and, unlike last week, have become ripe, especially where they ripen early – on the sand and gravel soils. There are a few instances of rot but for the moment very isolated.

Jean-Max Manceau (Domaine de la Noire, Chinon) with his barely fermenting Chinon 2009 with some Cabernet Franc still to be picked. The 2009 Chinon will have much more colour in a few days time when it has spent ponger macaerating on its skins

Yannick Amirault (Bourgueil and Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil)@his chai
"The fruit is now ripe – we need to get it in quickly."

Philippe Boucard with some of his ripe Cabernet Franc

Picker@Domaine de la Noblaie – this Cabernet Franc will be used for rosé

Domaine de la Noblaie: another bunch

Domaine de la Noblaie: CF grapes arriving at the press – destined for Chinon Rosé

Noblaie: unloading the grapes

Picker@Château de la Grille (Chinon)

Another picker@Château de la Grille (Chinon)

Cabernet Franc@Château de la Grille

Frédéric Mabileau: sorting before destemming machine

Frédéric Mabileau: another check after destemming

(More details and pictures to add.)

Jean-Max Manceau, Domaine de la Noire, 160 Rue de l'Olive, 3750 Chinon

Yannick in his cave at the top of the coteau

'Profit, à tout prix ?
Politique diabolisant la consommation même modérée du vin, concurrence internationale et uniformisation des cultures….Tout paraît réuni pour enterrer l'avenir du vin.

Au risque de me tromper, je crois qu'il existera toujours une place pour les vins à forte personnalité, reflétant un terroir, mais aussi l'âme et la passion d'un vigneron. Des vins purs et fidèles à ce que veut nous offrir la nature, pour notre plaisir…'

•

Yannick Amirault (Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil and Bourgueil) is one of my favourite red Loire producers and I was struck this morning by the wise words above on his website:

'Profit at any price?
When even moderate wine drinking is demonised by the politicians, with international competition and the tendency towards uniformity, everything appears to conspire to make wine have no future.

But at the risk of being wrong, I believe there will always exist a market for wines with a strong personality, that reflect their terroir, but also the soul and passion of the vigneron. Pure wines, faithful to what nature gives us, for our pleasure....'

I'm sure that Yannick is right. I have long believed that there is a market, a place for wines, made with passion and commitment, by producers who are close to their vineyards and who strive to produce the very best every year. I'm sure that the Loire is lucky to have more than its fair share of producers who have that ambition.

Went to a great concert at the Queen Elizabeth Hall on London’s South Bank last night. Part of the London Jazz Festival, it starred Joanna McGregor, the amazing Dhafer Youssef, Satoshi Takeishi and the Britten Sinfonia. Dhafer’s voice and range were particularly amazing.

Stéphane Cossais: August 2008

Afterwards we headed off for a couple of courses at the nearby RSJ Restaurant, where I do some consultancy mainly running the tastings and going to the Loire on buying trips. We started with a bottle of Stéphane Cossais 2005 Le Volagré Montlouis – a delicious combination of richness and minerality with a trace of vanilla showing initially. We also enjoyed the quite gamy, sous-bois 2005 Les Mines Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil from Yannick Amirault. The RSJ kitchen was certainly on-form: my salmon fishcakes followed by duck confit were very good.

Yannick Amirault: late January 2008

Sites:
Yannick Amirault

RSJ News (blog)

RSJ Restaurant

London Jazz Festival

2008: Harvesting Cabernet Franc:
photo Yannick Amirault

From: Yannick Amirault, Bourgueil and Saint Nicolas-de-Bourgeuil:

'Effectivement les vendanges se sont très bien passées. Nous avons eu un temps magnifique et le raisin était super.

Début octobre, j'étais inquiet par les acidités très élevées mais qui ont bien baissé à la récolte.
Si on prend uniquement en considération les courbes de degré et d'acidité, nous sommes sur des courbes proches de 1996 et 2002.'

Désormais les fermentations sont terminées et je laisse encore "infuser" sous marc une semaine avant tirage.

Yannick and his son 'unloading' Cabernet Franc
photo Yannick Amirault

Certainly the vintage went very well. We had magnificent weather and the grapes are superb.

At the beginning of October I was worried by the grapes' high acidity but they had dropped considerably by the time we harvested. If you look just at the graphs of alcohol and acidity, we are close to those of 1996 and 2002.

The alcoholic fermentations have finished and I am leaving the wine to 'infuse' on the skins for a week before drawing the wine off.