Sign for La Mère Hamard





La Mère Hamard

Last night we finally got to stay at La Mère Hamard in the small village of Semblançay, just to the north of Tours. We had tried to stay here in 1987 when the group that bought the house in Epeigné-les-Bois came out that February on a scouting/buying expedition. Either La Mère Hamard was full up or more likely given the time of year it was closed. Instead we stayed at Les Fontaines at the western end of Rochecorbon, which actually turned out to be more convenient for most of the places we looked at during that slightly extended weekend. Subsequently, of course, we have not had the need to find a hotel in this area. Last night was an exception as the house was full and we needed somewhere to stop on the way down to Pauillac, so a good opportunity to try La Mère Hamard, which has been an hotel since at least 1903 though with many changes of ownership.

We weren't disappointed with the recently refurbished rooms and a good dinner outside on a gloriously warm evening. Our experience was capped this morning when the chef recognising that one of our party, who has reduced mobility would have trouble getting up the stairs to the upstairs breakfast room, set us up with our own special table downstairs.

The Chef

We set the mood of the evening by starting with a bottle of the 2008 Clos de la Bretonnière, Vouvray from Jacky and Joëlle Blot's Domaine de la Taille aux Loups. There was a choice of vintage and I opted for the 2008 in preference to the 2009. The 2008 is more austere, more mineral than the more opulent 2009, which doesn't have the same precision as the 2008.

   

 

We followed this with Yannick Amirault's 2006 Les Malgagnes, St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, which is drinking well now with its soft opulent black fruits. 2006s are generally attractive and ready to drink although they lack some of the complexity and structure of the 2005s, which is very likely to be the long lived vintage.  

La Mère Hamard, which is conveniently situated for the A28 autoroute (Rouen to Tours) is certainly recommended for anyone looking for a comfortable stop when journeying through France. 

   

2010 Noble Joué, Rémi Cosson

We were so impressed with the Restaurant Agnès Sorel in Genillé (under new ownership – Nicolas et Estelle Petit – for just over a year) when we ate there in December that we went back with friends last night. We had an excellent and very enjoyable meal. The three course menu at 22€ is extremely good value.

We kicked off with a bottle of the 2010 Noble Joué (AC Touraine Noble Joué – a blend of three Pinots: Noir, Gris and Meunier) from Remi Cosson in Esvres-sur-Indre  – a delicate shade of pink, an attractive balance of ripe red fruits and refreshing acidity. Made a very good aperitif and went well with the smoked salmon and gravalax that most of us chose. CRM went for the aparagus soup, which was delicious.

Chapeau! beautifully presented aparagus soup   

Main course was a choice of sea bream or nine-hour cooked belly of pork – two of us chose the fish and two the belly. The belly was excellent and was well partnered by Yannick Amirault's medium weight 2008 La Mine, Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, which is drinking well now but can be happily kept for a few years more.

We finished with CRM choosing the crèpe wrapped around a baked apple, while I went for the gauffre (waffle) with blackberry purée and icecream – a fitting finale.  

Although further confirmation wasn't really required the six wines from Yannick Amirault shown at last week's Thorman Hunt tasting demonstrated once again the quality of these wines and that Yannick is one of the Loire's top wine producers. Unfortunately Yannick wasn't over this year for the tasting but his wines spoke for him.

2008 Les Quartiers, Bourgueil

There were three wines from each appellation starting with the 2008 Les Quartiers Bourgueil (£11.17 ex VAT) with soft, juicy fruit. From vines planted on clay and limestone this is delicious to drink now. The silky and charming 2008 La Coudraye (£8.67 ex VAT) has a little more structure with a slightly longer finish. La Coudraye comes from vines planted on clay-flint and sand.

2008 Le Grand Clos, Bourgueil

Certainly the most concentrated and structured of the three Bourgueils from clay and flint vineyards on the limestone coteau. Although it can be drunk now especially if decanted in advance, Le Grand Clos (£11.50 ex VAT) would be best cellared for another three or four years.

On to the Saint-Nicolas with the youthful 2009 La Source (£9.17 ex VAT) with its aromas of violets and flavours a mix of sweet red and black fruits from vines planted on sand and gravel. Next was the 2008 La Mine (£10.63), which is more edgy and less opulent than the 2008 Bourgueils. It may just need some more time. Then back to the 2009 Malgagnes (showing all the rich, opulent, silky fruit usually associated with the 2009 vintage. This comes from vines on clay and flint on the limestone coteaux. Some of the vines here were planted in 1936 with the rest being planted in 1973 and 1994.