Solitary Chenin amidst a sea of Sauvignon

(5th November 2008)

Esk Valley 2008 Chenin Blanc

Off to Penthouse of New Zealand House yesterday for the London Winter new release tasting and the first chance to have a look at what New Zealand has done in 2008 as well as releases of other recent vintages. Held up by work I had about 75 minutes for the 255 wines set out, so a severe selection had to be made. Only one Chenin Blanc – the Esk Valley – shown compared to 84 Sauvignon Blancs.

The crisp 2008 Esk Valley Chenin Blanc (Hawkes Bay – £8.69) has hints of honey and spice, a touch of quince and some length. It hangs together better than the Pinot Gris tasted – New Zealand I fancy is still getting to grips with this variety. Great pity there was nothing from New Zealand’s Chenin King and Queen – Annie and James Millton – to show what can be done with Chenin in New Zealand.

From a savage cull of the sea of 2008 Sauvignons I picked out the Carrick (Central Otago – £11,95), Jackson Estate (Marlborough – £9.99) and Saint Clair 3 43 degrees (Marlborough – £15.99).

The 2007 Pinot Noirs were very impressive range. Again having to be selective (58 available), I picked out 2007 Forrest Estate (Marlborough), Vavasour (Marlborough - £11.99), Jackson Estate Vintage Widow (Marlborough - £14.99) and the Felton Road range, in particular the structured Block 3 (Central Otago – £33). From 2006 I liked the Seresin Rachel (Marlborough – £22) and the Hawkshead (Central Otago – £19.95).

“New Zealand Pinot Noir has come of age,” said Tim Atkin MW.