2011 Cabernet Franc@Château du Petit Thouars

Sébastien du Petit Thouars

A brief visit to Château du Petit Thouars on Wednesday to see the Cabernet Franc just before it was harvested yesterday. The grapes, which will be machine harvested, looked in good condition. Any rotten or poor grapes have been removed by the picking machine passes. Their vineyard at Saint Germain sur Vienne has a cooler climate than the nearby Chinon appellation, so the grapes ripen a little later. 

As well as looking forward to a good harvest in 2011, Sébastien is hopeful that the Chinonais will accept their request to be included in the Chinon appellation. The Chinonais are due to vote on the request next year but at the dinner during La Verticale du Chinon (15th September 2011) Jean-Max Manceaux, president if the syndicat, seemed to be positive about their application, which concerns only some 50 hectares with the same clay limestone soil as found in the appellation vineyards on the south bank of the Vienne.

This small area of AC Touraine vineyard is being orphaned by the jihadists of AC Touraine in the Cher Valley, who intend to outlaw 100% Cabernet Franc and 100% Chenin from the Touraine appellation.      

More 2011 Cabernet Franc

At the end of the Chinon vertical tasting on 16th September we were allowed to chose from spare bottles left over from the tasting. I chose the 1975 Gérard Spelty and the 1990 Domaine de la Noblaie, which I have enjoyed drinking. The 1975 still has quite substantial tannins and acidity, especially when tasted by itself. However, the aromas are powerful and complex – fruit and spice – and drinking it over a meal there is time to return to it and see it change and evolve. The 1975 still has sweet, evolved fruit and structure before its long vibrant finish. Unlikely to get better, this should still last a few years.

1990 Chinon, Domaine de la Noblaie

The 1990 from Domaine de la Noblaie has the sweet, voluptuous, feminine charm expected of a 1990. Lovely to drink it doesn't have the extra dimension of the 1989 Nobalie, also included in the tasting. This wine was made by François Billard, the father of Jérôme.

 Cabernet Franc arriving at Domaine de Noblaie (27th September) 

The fine, hot weather of the last week or so with the wind now from the east has made a big difference to the vintage. Yesterday in Chinon and Saumur it was like mid-summer with the temperature over 30C. Jérome Billard: "The last ten days has transformed the vintage from average to exceptional! We just started this morning picking the Cabernet Franc for our sparkling wine." 

Golden Chenin Blanc at Noblaie 

Cabernet Franc at Noblaie waiting to be picked and destined for red Chinon

Jérome on tractor

Part of Chinon including Le Clos de l'Hospice

The latest instalment in Richard Kelley's Guide to the Wines of the Loire is now published:

'The Loire’s most recognized red wine appellation

CHINON – WINES OF GREAT RENOWN
‘Chinon, trois fois Chinon :
Petite ville, grand renom,
Assise sur pierre ancienne,
Au haut le bois, au pied la Vienne’

– François Rabelais (1494-1553) from Pantagruel - 1532

Grand renom indeed, but how many wine lovers can honestly claim to know and understand the Loire valleys most widely recognized red wine appellation? Superficially, it’s straightforward enough; a single classification based on Cabernet Franc, vinified both as red and rosé, and bolstered by a token amount of Chenin Blanc planted in many instances for cynical commerciality rather than any inherent cohesion with the region's soils. Unfortunately, for this commentator at least, Chinon is both a confusing and confused appellation, in desperate need of a shake-up....'

......To read more go to:

www.richardkelley.co.uk

***

Video of the 2011 vintage in Bourgueil here.

La Vienne, the town of Chinon and part of the Château

Thursday: off to Chinon for a big tasting on Friday morning when the Chinon producers are showing a range of wines over 60 vintages for 1945 to 2005. This promises to be fascinating. Although I have tasted a few 1947 Chinons I don’t think I have tasted any since 1992 – some long time ago. Same for the famous 1964, which I have tasted but not recently – 64 has the reputation of being one of the great Chinons.

Of course it may be the famous vintages like 1945, 1947, 1949, 1959, 1964, 1989, 1990, 1996 and 2005 will shine but it will be equally fascinating to see how the less heralded vintages have aged – 1948 or 1951 for example – likewise 1963 or 1968.

First off it was the Eurostar to Paris and then across on the Metro 4 to the Gare de Montparnasse – not one of my favourite railway stations: a monument to concrete and very impersonal. It doesn’t have a scintilla of the charm of the Gare du Lyon or even the Gare du Nord.

This evening we will be at the Château de Rivau, where we are promised that the late François Rabelais, Chinon’s greatest ambassador may put in an appearance.

PS: I didn’t have a chance to post this before today’s fascinating and very interesting vertical of Chinon, although it wasn’t quite as advertised as we started with a 1934. More details of the tasting tomorrow.

Château du Rivau where the tasting was held

Cabernet Franc in Saumur-Champigny 2009

Much as I like the notion of highlighting the brilliance and charms of Cabernet Franc yesterday (1st September), I do feel that the conception is flawed: Cabernet Franc, like pet dogs, should not be for just one day. Here@Jim's Loire many days in the year are enriched by Cabernet Franc.

1989 Vieilles Vignes Chinon Domaine de la Perrière (Jean & Christophe Baudry)

About 10 days ago we drank a bottle of the 1989 VV Chinon from Jean and Christophe Baudry's Domaine de la Perrière (Cravant-le-Coteaux). Pure Cabernet Franc, it had wonderful perfume that just filled the large glasses we were using and had a brilliant harmony and freshness. This was certainly one of the best bottles of Loire Cabernet Franc from the famed 1989 vintage that I have ever drunk. This bottle may be at its peak – certainly it was full of life and gave the impression that it would have lasted considerably more years if we hadn't pulled the cork and had great pleasure in sharing it with friends.

I doubt this VV cost more than the equivalent of £4 or £5 when we bought it. Certainly demonstrating how age-worthy well-made Chinon can be, especially bearing in mind that this wine comes from vines planted on the gravel, not normally considered to be as well suited to ageing as those cuvées from the limestone coteaux.

This week I have received an invitation to go to a special tasting of 60 years of Chinon from 1945-2005. It will be held in mid-September and I'm delighted that I will be able to go. Should be fascinating!

Christophe Baudry

1996 Vieilles Vignes  Domaine de la Perrière

Tasting of some 2010 Loires at the RSJ Restaurant (Waterloo, London) on Monday evening

For me one of the stars was the 1996 Chinon Vieilles Vignes from Christophe Baudry’s Domaine de la Perrière. Obviously not a 2010 wine but one we put in at the end of the tasting to show how the 2010s may evolve. Although a number of 1996s, such as Le Grand Clos and Vieilles Vignes from Château Villeneuve as well as the 1996 Bourgueil served at Vins et Livres, are still on very good form, I hadn’t tasted the 1996 VV Perrière for some time, so wondered how it would show.

The Baudry Vieilles Vignes comes from the gravel vineyards close to the River Vienne. In general the wines from the limestone Coteaux are longer lived. I shouldn’t have been concerned as this 1996 had complex and attractive aromas of evolved fruit and seductively soft, supple fruit texture. I doubt if it will get any better but it is likely to continue in this vein for certainly at least another three or four years.   

 

We opened two bottles of the 1996. There was a slight difference between the two with one being rounder and the other showing a little more acidity. Sometimes bottle variation can be very significant with wines of this age.  

List of 2010’s tasted:

Aperitif:

Sauvignon VDP du Val de Loire, Domaine de Bablut

Whites: 

Touraine Sauvignon, Clos Roussely, Vincent Roussely

Quincy, Domaine des Ballandors, Jean Tatin and Chantal Wilk

Chenin Blanc, Château de la Roulerie, Philippe Germain

3 Coteaux, Chinon Blanc, Baudry-Dutour

Reds:

Anjou Rouge, Château de la Roulerie, Philippe Germain

Clos de la Bienboire, Château de Villeneuve, Jean-Pierre Chevallier

Saumur Champigny, Domaine des Roches Neuves, Thierry Germain

1996 Vieilles Vignes, Chinon, Domaine de la Perrière

Comments on the 2010s to follow

Jérôme Billard

Following our brief visit to Château de la Grille we headed back into Chinon and across the Vienne to Ligré and the Domaine de la Noblaie. This is the first time I have seen Jérôme and Elodie Billard since the birth of Adele at the beginning of March. It was good to meet Adele, who apparently is well behaved and now sleeps through the night.

We had an extensive and impressive tasting with Jérôme starting with the floral, honeyed and vibrant 2010 Chinon Blanc. This cuvée sees no wood – resting on its lees until it is bottled earlier either in January or February. "It is naturally stable," says Jérôme, "with little SO2 added. Noblaie along with nearby Château de Ligré has long made white Chinon, when it was even more recherché than it is now.

Then, before tackling the reds, it was on to the 2010 grenadine flavoured Rosé, which has weight and character. Noblaie's reds have a lovely purity of fruit. We tasted across the range of 2010s in barrel, which are showing plenty of promise, especially the Blanc Manteaux from limestone soils and Pierre de Tuf from heavy clay. Pierre de Tuf is vinified in an old limestone (tufa), open vat. Jérôme characterises the 2010s as having the weight of 2009 with the minerality of 2008.

From the barrels we moved on to bottles starting with the soft and concentrated 2009 La Noblaie, the domaine wine. Raspberries dominate here with a touch of gaminess. Then the more structured and tannic 2009 Chiens Chiens, which needs time to soften. 2009 Pierre de Tuf has wonderful fragrant, elegant fruit with a long finish – just delicious.

Pierre de Tuf – the ancient limestone fermenting vat

Then we tried some 2008s starting with Blanc Manteaux – naturally lighter than the 2009s but fine with good balance. There is more concentration with the Chiens Chiens with an attractive texture, a combination of black fruits and minerals and the tannins have had time to soften. We finished the reds with the floral and raspberry 2008 Pierre de Tuf. Less impressive than the 2009, although perhaps it is just a question of a bit more time?

The 2008 La Part des Anges, Chinon Blanc brought the tasting to a fitting conclusion. This is a very limited production cuvée made from the best juice from the press then fermented in demi-muids – 500 litre barrels using the natural yeasts. The 2009 is still fermenting, while this 2008 spent 18 months in wood. It has a lovely rich concentration of fruit, an opulent texture some wood notes, honey and exotic fruit – all this is balanced by excellent freshness in the finish.

Once again confirmation that under Jérôme, Domaine de la Noblaie is now amongst the top handful of Chinon estates.

Christophe Baudry: Baudry-Dutour and Maire of Cravant-les-Coteaux

Following our morning in Saumur we headed to AC Chinon and to Panzoult for a tasting at the Baudry-Dutour winery. Given that they are now the largest invididual producer in Chinon with some 120 hectares, the standard at Baudry-Dutour is impressively high across their range. 

From the easy drinking red cuvées Domaine de la Perrière has more interest and concentration in 2010 than the leaner Domaine de la Roncée. It was the other way round in 2009. Christophe Baudry explained that due to a spring frost Perrières' yield was some 36-38 hl/ha compared to 45-47 hl/ha for Roncée. Both of these 2010s are in bottle. The mid-weight 2009 Perrières Vieilles Vignes has a smoky character, an attractively soft texture and can be enjoyed now, while Clos des Maronniers is more closed and needs a little time. 

The 2009 Château de la Grille was next up. This is the first Baudry-Dutour vintage from this previously underwhelming and expensive property. The 2009 is certainly an improvement on previous vintages with a good concentration of red and black fruits. Although the tannins are better handled there is a still a bite of tannin in the finish. However, there will be time for this to soften as it won't be on the market until the end of 2012. The fine 2008 Château Saint-Louans was the last red. Now on sale it has a good  balance of structure and fruit.

Jean-Martin Dutour: Président of Interloire   

Following the tasting we paid a quick visit with Jean-Martin to Château de la Grille, which is on the outskirts of Chinon just to the north of the main road that by-passes the town. They have recently pulled down part of the old chai and are putting up a new visitor centre. The château is now empty and will need extensive renovation.

Postscript:
The plan is to keep the existing special bulbous and heavy La Grille bottle. I think this is probably a mistake as I don't think Château de la Grille has a very good reputation (see comments). Better to start afresh with a new bottle and design to show that there really has been regime change at La Grille.  

Area where the chai was demolished

 

Visitor centre

The President on the phone

Visit to Jérôme Billard (Domaine de la Noblaie) will be an additional post.

A tanned looking Christophe Surget, export manager for Couly-Dutheil, with 2005 Clos de l'Olive

Tuesday was the annual Thorman Hunt tasting held in the traditional surroundings of the Merchant Taylors Hall in the City of London. Entirely appropriate surroundings for the traditional values Thorman Hunt & Co Ltd, who concentrate chiefly on shipping French wines, although they do bring in some from Italy and a few from New Zealand, California, Australia as well as Massaya in the Lebanon's Bekaa Valley – partly French owned of course. There is nothing flashy about the company but they do have some excellent names in their portfolio such as Alain Brumont (Madiran/ Pacherenc), Charles Hours (Jurançon), Yves Cuilleron (nothern Rhône), Vincent Girardin (Meursault), Vincent Durreuil-Janthial (Rully), Jean Durup, and Christian Moreau from Chablis.

With best part of 450 wines available to taste and arriving later than I hoped, I only had time to concentrate on the Loires starting with Joseph Drouard's Muscadets (Domaine des Hauts Pemions in Monnières). The 2009 seemed quite lean and minerally at the moment, while his 2010 Muscadet La Hallopière was attractively youthful – floral and lemony.  

2005 Clos de l'Olive

Next a short range from Couly-Dutheil, presented by a tanned looking Christophe Surget – a few days recently in Martinique or was it the position of my flash that gave him such a healthy glow? Amongst the wines the 2010 Blanc de Francs (white made from Cabernet Franc) was showing well as was the 2009 La Baronnie-Madeleine (Chinon) with its sweet opulent fruit. The 2008 Clos de l'Echo and the 2005 Clos de l'Olive showed the contrast of the two vintages. The 2005 with rich, sweet, ripe fruit reflecting the sunshine of 2005, while the 2008 Echo, admittedly three years younger, a more classic Loire expression perhaps and quite tight and austere at the moment and, as one would expect, clearly needs more time in the cellar.

2008 Les Cormiers

Jean-Pierre Chevallier's Les Cormiers, Saumur Blanc, Château de Villeneuve is always a reference for Loire Chenin. The 2008 is wonderfully clean and precise with weight balanced by its minerality. Can be drunk now but I expect it to take on further complexity with age. J-P's 2009 Saumur-Champigny has only recently been released. It is still quite tight – needing more time, so instead look for his 2008, which is drinking beautifully at the moment.

Other wines to be covered in next post.     

The recently restored Château de Chinon

Message from the agency that arranged the event:

'Le 21 novembre dernier, les vins de Chinon vous invitaient à la Nouvelle Ève pour une dégustation originale par les sens et l’esprit.

L’esprit, parce que pour l’occasion, des slameurs et comédiens s’étaient associés pour faire vivre l’univers riche de Chinon.

Si vous l’avez manquée, nous vous invitons à une session de rattrapage en découvrant les vidéos de cette dégustation par l’esprit au lien suivant : http://www.youtube.com/user/VinsdeChinon#p/u/0/0eySr50iL_A'

There are seven videos in all.

3rd March:
See Michel Smith's view of these videos here on Les 5 du Vin. I have to agree that the videos were not very compelling viewing. Presumbably due to criticism, it would appear that the videos are now not open to general viewing. Surely a rather curious retreat – either the agency and the Syndicat de Chinon thought that these videos had value or they did not. 

 Le Saint-Vincent 2011@Cravant-le-Coteaux

(Delighted to have this report from Johan Le Calonnec on this journée de la modération.)

The 2011 Saint Vincent in Cravant les Coteaux on Sunday was beautiful, Hubert Page sang l'"Hymne de Cravant les Coteaux" and we were more than 1100 persons (all people sang with Hubert, very nice!).

Here is the menu (the chef was Bernard Tardivon from Poitiers

Menu Saint Vincent 2011

- Assortiment de feuilletés chauds et Gateaux salés
- Apéritif
- Mise en bouche "Tatin de navet et son foie gras de canard poêlé"

_ Aumônière de St Jacques tiède et Millefeuille de Homard et Langouste "Sur son assise de tartare de petits légumes, vinaigrette balsamique"
Chinon blanc

- Escalope de Sandre poêlée et rôtie, beurre rouge
Cravant 2007

- Sorbe de Poire
Cravant 2000

- Pavé de Boeuf crème de Morille "Brochette de légumes (pomme de terre, carotte et courgette) Poêlée de champignons avec cêpes.
Cravant 2006

- Assiette de Mesclun, vinaigrette huile de noix et ses Fromages (Comté et Ste Maure chaud)
Cravant 2005

- Gourmandise Cravantaise (Croquembouche, Framboisier, pâte d'amande nature cristalline de panacotta de fruits rouge)
Pétillant

Café et son Palet de Chocolat
sur table Rouge et Rosé 2010

After lunch (we finished at 19h30...) we visited the cellars of Joël Bournigault, Baudry Dutour, Guillaume et Jérôme Sourdais and Manoir de la Bellonière.

My best memories were Clos des Marroniers 2008 (Baudry-Dutour), the perfect Château La Grille 2005 (Baudry-Dutour), the 2002 from Jérome and Guillaume Sourdais and the 1996 Chinon (from Moreau, Manoir de la Bellanière).

After that we went to the ball and the cold buffet.

Christophe Baudry, the maire of Cravant-les-Coteaux, was very happy after this party, because that was another succès for Cravant.

Johan during the 2009 vintage at Domaine Huet, Vouvray

***

Le Fête de Saint-Vincent Epeigné-les-Bois

A report this smaller but equally perfectly formed Fête at Epeigné-les-Bois is here in La Nouvelle République.

Bertrand Sourdais: Domaine de Pallus

I spent several hours yesterday at the French Independent Wine Growers tasting at Lords. Most of the 16 Loire producers present I had met before. However, I had never met or tasted the Chinons of Bertrand Sourdais (Domaine de Pallus) and he was easily my most exciting new discovery, although I'm rather bemused that I hadn't come across him before.

Bertrand is one of many Sourdais in Cravant-les-Coteaux. The Domaine de Pallus, on the border of Cravant and Panzoult, has been in the family since 1891. It has 18 hectares of vines: 12 on the clay limestone coteaux and six down on the plain of the Vienne with its sand and gravel soils. These six hectares are in a Clos in the hamlet of Briancon. Although Bertrand doesn't proclaim it on his labels his vineyards are farmed organically – grassed over in the winter and the soil worked during the summer.

The first wine was 2008 Les Pensées de Pallus, which comes from three parcels: one on clay, one – limestone and one on gravel from the Clos. It spends 18 months in one-year-old barriques. and is attractively soft and ripe. Bertrand had two vintages of the Domaine de Pallus, which comes from four different parcels on the coteaux close to the property. The wine spends 18 months in new barrels. The 2007 is a real success for a difficult year and although there are some wood notes they are by no means dominant. The Domaine is more concentrated than Les Pensées with more structure. The 2007 would benefit from a little more time in bottle. In contrast the richer, fuller and supple 2006 is ready to drink now.

While acknowledging the success of the 2007 my slight preference was for the 2006, whereas Bertrand prefers the 2007 as it has more finesse.

When I asked Bertrand whether he would be at this year's Salon des Vins de Loire he smiled and said he would be at home before explaining that he would be at his other home in Spain - Ribera del Duero, where he was involved from 1999 with Ricardo Perez Palacios, whom he met when studying oenology at Blanquefort, Bordeaux. Ricardo is the nephew of Alvaro Palacios of Rioja and Priorat fame. Bertrand now has his own 15 ha vineyard in Ribera.

Alvaro Palacios in 2008 (Rioja)

Jérôme and François Billard (Domaine de la Noblaie, Ligré – AC Chinon)

My second visit on Monday afternoon was to the Domaine de la Noblaie now run by Jérôme who was taken over from his father, Francois who was the first professor of oenology at the Montreuil-Bellay wine school.

Details of wines tasted to be added.

Bernard and Matthieu Baudry (Domaine Bernard Baudry, Cravant-les-Coteaux, AC Chinon)

Quick trip to Chinon on Monday afternoon  to taste some 2009s. First visit was to Domaine Bernard Baudry where Matthieu has now taken over from his father, Bernard who is now officially retired although in fact he is still very much involved.

Matthieu Baudry

Details of wines and tasting notes to be added.

Above: Chinon and gatehouse to the château; Jean-Max Manceau (below) 2009 Cabernet Franc grapes with Jean-Max holding a glass of freshly pressed juice Jean-Max Manceau, président du syndicat des vins (ODG) de l’AOC Chinon « Chinon est plutôt dans la catégorie des vins de niche » 'Chinon, AOC ligérienne petite par la taille, mais de longue réputation, est confrontée comme toutes les autres aux données contradictoires du monde d’aujourd’hui : changement du goût des consommateurs, mondialisation, concentration des négociants et développement du vin industriel, conscience environnementale…Jean-Max Manceau, vigneron (château de Noiré), président du syndicat des vins-ODG depuis 1999, mais également de la fédération des vignerons de Touraine, nous explique la stratégie de l’AOC dans ce contexte.' Lire la suite ici