The confrontation: animated mobile phone conversation

Close up of two of the protagonists

Our regular readers (or reader!) will probably recall our fondness for Praia da Adraga and its excellent restaurant on the Portuguese Altantic coast close to Sintra. See here and here.

Last Sunday we headed across from Lisbon to Adraga, having taken the precaution to book a table for 2pm. Unlike France, Portugal understands the pleasure of having extended eating hours. Lunch, for example, can often be taken at noon or at 3pm.

Unfortunately 2pm on a sunny and very busy Sunday proved to be a mistake as the restaurant was still jammed packed with those who had arrived at 1pm. This meant that we didn't actually sit down to eat until after 3pm. Fortunately we weren't in a rush and shortly after we arrived a confrontation between the Portuguese Maritime Police and a couple of very obstinate women provided a great show for the best part of 55 minutes, which kept us thoroughly entertained.

Our view of the show started when two Portuguese Maritime police officers walked purposely on to the beach and stopped in front of two women lying on the beach sunbathing. As we were a good 100 metres away, we couldn't hear what was being said, so had to piece together what was going on from movements and gestures etc.

It was soon clear that the confrontation was over the women having chosen to pitch their towels and folding chair in the area where there are shelters for hire. They were close to one that hadn't been hired, so its cover and awning hadn't been erected. The policeman was clearly pointing out the parts of the beach where they could sunbathe. I assume that the women had already refused to pay for a shelter, so the Maritime Police had been called.

The beach and the shelters

The arguments raged on and on with the blonde woman having an animated conversation with someone her mobile phone. At one point the policewoman left the beach returning with a large folder. Perhaps the women were about to be arrested for towel trespass and hauled from the beach in manacles.

The solution – pay for a beach shelter!

Eventually the women, obviously with great reluctance, paid for a beach shelter and the police departed. Why the women thought it was worth losing nearly an hour of sunbathing time on the beach and all the hassle just because they weren't prepared to move their towels or, alternatively, pay for a beach shelter is beyond me.

Anyway once we were finally seated in the restaurant with its great views out to sea, a bottle of deliciously refreshing 2010 Vinho Verde Alvarinho was swiftly ordered and nearly as quickly consumed.

2010 Alvarinho Vinho Verde, Soalheiro

Camara Municipal de Sintra (Sintra Town Hall): above and below

Last Thursday we took the train up to Sintra from Rossio Station in Lisbon. Then strolled along from the station to the centre of the small town. 

Palácio Nacional de Sintra

Buildings in Sintra

Looking from the centre of town back towards the town hall

Then it was back to Sintra Station to get a taxi to take us to Praia Adrega. Curiously the taxis in the centre of the town are apparently only allowed to circulate in the town.

The beach at Praia Adraga was virtually deserted with the customary, creamy Atlantic rollers to watch. Once again the small stream that follows into the sea at Adraga had changed course over the beach during the winter. Either the stream or winter high tides (or a combination of the two) has destroyed the small wooden broadwalk that runs from the car park across the stream to the beach. 

Praia Adraga

We had time to sit for half an hour on the beach before heading for a latish lunch (2pm) at the Restaurant Praia Adraga. One of the good things about Portugal is the relatively flexible eating times. In many parts of France the chances of being able to sit down to lunch at 2pm are decidedly slim. Indeed it can be tricky from 1.30pm.   

Ameijoas à Bulhão Pato

We had a table by the window overlooking the ocean. Lunch as ever here was excellent – a dish of ameijoas à Bulhão Pato (clams cooked in olive oil with garlic, chilli and coriander) to share between the four of us. This was followed by simply grilled seabass and turbot – again shared. We drank a very good bottle of 2009 Alvarinho, Vinho Verde, Muros Antigos.

Sea bass (in foreground); turbot (behind)

Never known the sea to be calm@Praia Adraga

I've written about this restaurant before but worth doing so again as I think it is one of the great fish restaurants of the world. It's not sophisticated, although there is, I think, Barca Velha, on the wine list but it does brilliant grilled fish as well as clams in garlic and delicious crabs. Reasonably priced, the restaurant is the only building of any substance in a wonderfully unspoiled cove and beach. Furthermore the staff are friendly and welcoming. If you get a table by the window you have an uninterrupted view to the USA.

The unglitzy Restaurante Adraga from the beach: window looks out over the ocean

Today three of us had Amêijoas à Bulhão Pato (clams in garlic and coriander), a crab and then a perfectly cooked sea bass accompanied by a bottle of 2008 Alvarinho. In Brittany or Nantes, Muscadet would be the ideal choice but here in Portugal, Alvarinho works extremely well. Amêijoas à Bulhão Pato is a speciality in these parts and is cooked in a similar way to moules marinières except there is less liquid. You need plenty of bread to mop up the juice.

Very fresh crab

2008 Alvarinho Quinta de Gomantz

Restaurant Praia da Adraga: tel: 21 923 00 28