Noël Pinguet and his wife Marie-Françoise

Very good tasting at the open day at Domaine Huet (Vouvray) yesterday, which included the 2010 vintage but also some older wines going back to 1993.

Jean-Bernard Berthomé – chef de culture

Heading back to London today for more text will be added later – similarly for the Nau Frères report.

Philippe Foreau

A few forthcoming dates for your diary:

Monday 27th December tasting with Philippe Foreau@Xavier Fortin's Plein Ciel, 6 Chemin des Coteaux, 37350 Le Petit Pressigny.

6th-8th May and 2rd-4th June 2011: Domaine Huet, Les Portes Ouvertes

Anthony Hwang: owner and 'assistant winemaker'@ Domaine Huet – 2010 vintage

Discarded grapes

By late September/early October it was already clear that unlike Anjou, the 2010 vintage was going to be difficult as these photos taken at Domaine Huet's Clos du Bourg on 1st October show.

A victim of esca

View across the vines to the tower with some of the buildings of Tours in the background

2002 Le Mont demi-sec, Vouvray, Huet

Dinner for four at the RSJ on Friday night. I suppose you could accuse me of playing safe with my wine choices that night – tant pis!

For our apero and the first course (my potted shrimps were excellent) we had the 2002 Le Mont demi-sec from Domaine Huet. Once again it confirmed what a lovely vintage 2002 is, especially for the whites. Curiously on first taste this Le Mont seemed to lack acidity but that was only very briefly a concern as the wine opened up in glass and showed all the balance associated with 2002. Sweetness, fruit and acidity are all here in seamless balance.

On the red side there were several possibilities that attracted me but we opted for Yannick's 2006 La Petite Cave and its lovely soft, opulence. Probably not such a long keeper as the 2005s but with its concentrated soft fruit a real pleaser at the moment – ideal with my roast guinea fowl.

2006 La Petite Cave, Bourgueil, Yannick Amirault

Noël Pinguet delivering part of the 2009 vintage

Domaine Huet 2009 Vintage

Offer and Report

June 2010

After the turbulent conditions of the 2008 growing season (flash floods at the end of May and the subsequent loss of over half the crop to disease), normal business was resumed this vintage. My view is that the barometer for assessing the overall quality of any vintage at Huet is dependent on the range of wines that are produced in a single year; 2002 and 2005 being perfect examples of this, when everything from pétillant to moelleux are produced. The 2009 vintage falls into this category.

Whilst the climatic conditions of any given year will always dictate the style of wines that are produced in the appellation, it was an objective this year that Huet should at least try harvest grapes at a level suitable for the production of sparkling wines, since none has been made since the 2005 vintage and stocks are badly depleted. In order to achieve this, Noël Pinguet has been experimenting with leaf-plucking during the growing season to try and reduce the surface area of the canopy and restrict the ripening, something which is contradictory to what would have happened just two decades ago, when lack of maturity in the fruit was an important issue. Noël sees this as clear sign of the problem of the change in climate. If successful, he’ll adopt this system in all the vineyards to try and bring down the alcohol levels, which are undoubtedly creeping up.

Although the conditions during the growing season were generally good, the 2009 harvest was a complicated one. The 15 day flowering period, much longer than usual, meant that ripening was not homogenous and Huet needed to send the vendangeurs out three times, even for the sec, in order to harvest at the optimum time. This again emphasises the importance of hand picking in Vouvray, as those producers who deploy mechanical harvesters, can only perform a single passage, so compromising the quality for the sake of convenience and cost.

The harvest started, with grapes for pétillant, on the 26^th September, and continued until the 27^th October. The majority of the grapes for the 1er trie wines came in on the second pass, whilst the fruit for Cuvée Constance was harvested, with around 50% botrytis, mostly from within Le Clos du Bourg and Le Mont, during the first few days. As is normal, Le Mont was the last to be picked; it’s ripening retarded by the colder clay soils, but also this year by the delayed flowering (it commenced seven days later than in Le Clos du Bourg).

In the cellar, it was found that the berries were small and contained less juice than normal, meaning that carefully controlling the pressing cycle was essential in order not to extract any phenolic compounds. Noël is generally fanatical about this stage of the winemaking process, but one can understand the importance under such conditions. Regardless, the harvest came in at an average of 48hl/ha, which is considered correct, and twice that of the 2008 vintage. Fermentations were protracted and certainly more difficult this year, with Le Mont being the last to finish.

The 2009s have given us a broad range of styles, but more important, commercially, the objective of producing much needed Pétillant and Sec has been achieved. Whilst 2008 was seen as a year for Demi-Sec (the best since 1988 for this style), the strength of the 2009 vintage lies with the drier wines, although overall this year will rank alongside 2002 and 2005 as being one of the best vintages of the decade. The defining character of the vintage is the good levels of acidity (between 4.5 and 5.0g/l), which will ensure these wines will all have a very long and distinguished life ahead of them.

Richard Kelley MW

THE WINES

These are now in bottle and tasted the last week of May.

2009 Le Haut Lieu Sec (limited)           
Currently primary and neutral on the nose (as is normal post bottling), but this is lovely on entry to the palate; juicy, with good focus even if it is still very closed. There is a hint of residual sugar on the mid palate, but it finishes dry and mineral on the finish. Needs time, but this will evolve into a classic Huet Sec.

2009 Le Clos du Bourg Sec (limited)           

This has closed up on bottling. It was already lush and exotic post-fermentation at the end of January, but is now very shy on the nose. The palate shows greater richness and texture which helps it display its class. Serious, but needs time- more time than Le Haut Lieu – before it will be at its best.

2009 Le Mont Sec (limited)         

Surprisingly for Le Mont, this is currently the most expressive of the trio of Sec. Delicate, yeasty and already complex, with great focus and a clear, crisp minerality running through the wine. It might well close up, as is the way with Le Mont, but this is where my money will be this vintage. Great now, but will be even greater in a decade or so. 

2009 Le Haut Lieu Demi-Sec         

There was a time, in early January, when there was a question mark in Noël’s head as to whether this would make a commercial release. I suppose after the quality of the 2008s, this was always going to be a hard act to follow. The nose is delicate and (currently) open with aromas of baked apple. Good weight on entry with sweetness showing, although it does appear to be in balance. Good focus with some minerality to the finish. It needs time. Noël’s initial concern was based on the 14.5% alcohol, although it does appear to carry this well.

2009 Le Haut Lieu Moelleux         

Open, delicate and faintly nutty. The aromas and flavour profile are still very primary. On the palate the wine is juicy, well focused and not obviously sweet. Good weight and length with good racy acidity to the finish. This is still very young and barely approachable at this stage. 55g/l residual sugar.

2009 Le Mont Moelleux         

Deeper appearance. Straw-yellow. Restrained and backward on the nose, but shows its class and future potential. Rounded and more obviously sweet on the palate. It appears a bit clumsy at this stage, but this is nothing to be concerned about; it just needs time to grow into itself. It shows its quality in the weight, structure and concentration to the finish. It is likely to be the last of the Moelleux to mature, but this is typical for Le Mont. 55g/l residual sugar.

2009 Le Clos du Bourg Moelleux

More intense that Le Haut-Lieu; richer and riper, with aromas of quince, honey and apple. Already lovely on entry, with a crisp freshness and juicy acidity which appears completely to mask any sense of sweetness. A little residual carbon dioxide adds to the overall lift. Persistent finish. Will amply repay keeping. 55g/l residual sugar.

2009 Le Mont Moelleux 1ère Trie         

Backward and restrained on the nose. It displays the same rich character as Le Clos du Bourg, with great texture and structure, but has an added degree of complexity derived from its more mineral core. Excellent potential, but needs to be hidden away for a decade at least. 93g/l residual sugar.

2009 Le Clos du Bourg Moelleux 1ère Trie             

Clean but closed on the nose. Taut and mineral. Rich and lush on entry; much more than the nose suggests. Powerfully structured with juicy acidity. Rounded and concentrated, but will need time to show its full potential. 92g/l residual sugar.

2009 Cuvée Constance  50cl         

The fourth year this decade that Constance has been produced. The wine is a blend of 50% botytised fruit from Le Clos du Bourg, Le Mont and a tiny fraction from the outskirts of Le Haut Lieu. Polished, straw-gold appearance. Very restrained, with barely noticeable sweetness on the nose. Rich on entry; lush, with very good weight, texture and the juicy acidity which helps define this vintage. Excellent poise and balance. Persistent finish. A much more restrained Constance, but one that maintains and displays a sense of place. 153g/l residual sugar / 11.5% alcohol.

Further details on Richards Walford's website.  

 New tasting room@Domaine Huet

 After our quick visit to the Moulin at Bléré we headed to Vouvray to taste some of the 2009 Huets. We kicked off with the 2009 Le Haut-Lieu sec (12.50€), which is decidedly austere, clean and precise at the moment with lightly floral aromas. (12.96% alc, 10.2 gms residual and 5.71 acidity). Although the 2009 Clos du Bourg sec has already sold out we were able taste it. It has more weight and concentration than Le Haut-Lieu, more complexity, a touch of honey and good length. It is less austere but also less precise. (13.72%, 8gm rs, 5.12 ac).

The demi-secs are being held back for the moment, so it was straight onto the moelleux starting with the 2009 Le Haut-Lieu moelleux (15.50€)with 53 grams of residual sugar showing some quite rich, honey character with good length of flavour. Charming to drink at the moment.  (53rs, 12.73% alc, 5.19ac). Next the slightly richer 2009 Le Mont moelleux (15.50€) – fuller and more weighty on the palate with hints of peach but a little disjointed at the moment. Ultimately I think this will prove to be the more interesting wine. (57.8 rs, 12.42% alc, 5.19ac).

To come the 1er Tries – Le Mont and Clos du Bourg.

Flowering@Le haut-Lieu 

Horses in the Clos du Bourg

There will be an opportunity during Domaine Huet's Portes Ouvertes this weekend (Saturday through to Monday) to take a horse drawn ride in the domaine's vineyards.

For more details please see previous post here. 

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Also a reminder of 30 vignerons du 37@ Cave de la Dive Bouteille, Bourgueil on Sunday 16th.

2009 Le Petit Salvard, Cheverny, Domaine du Salvard  

Further notes from yesterday's Waitrose press tasting.

Le Petit Salvard (£7.99) is mainly Sauvignon Blanc with a small amount of Chardonnay as required by the AC Cheverny regulations. This gives the wine an attractively citric attack with a touch of softness provided by the Chardonnay along with some of the richness you would expect from the 2009 vintage.

2008 Vignes de Ratier, Menetou-Salon, Morogues, Domaine Pellé

More evidence here that Domaine Pellé is on good form with this 2008 Vignes de Ratier (£11.99)  a single vineyard planted on marne kimméridgienne. With yellow plum aromas this has good weight and concentration allied with the vibrancy associated with the 2008 vintage. I'd buy this in preference to the two Sancerres on show: Waitrose 2009 Sancerre La Franchotte from Joseph Mellot (£11.99) and the 2008 from Domaine Naudet (£12.49) in Sury-en-Vaux. 

2007 Le Haut Lieu sec, Vouvray, Domaine Huet

Le Haut Lieu is the heavier of the three Huet vineyards as it has more clay, deeper soil and is just beyond the première côte. The 2007 sec (£18.49) has just a hint of honey on the nose with the precision and clean flavours typical of 2007, although it is rather in a closed up phase at present. Needs to be cellared a while to show its best.  

2009 Les Andides, Saumur

Youthful and quite exuberantly floral, this crisp, lemony 2009 Saumur Blanc (100% Chenin Blanc – £6.99) from Alliance Loire would make a good apéro as well as matching shellfish. Over the next year or so likely to take on a little more weight.

 2009 Chenin Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Château de la Roulerie

2008 Saumur Champigny, Domaine de la Croix de Chaintres, Filliatreau

More to add shortly....

 2nd October 2009: Noël Pinguet reversing a tractor load of grapes destined to make pétillant

Les Portes Ouvertes@Domaine Huet are on Saturday 8th and Sunday 9th May and from Saturday 13th to Monday 15th May from 10.00-19.00. A good opportunity to discover the 2009 vintage.

11 Rue de la Croix Buisée

37210 Vouvray

Tel: 02.47.52.78.87

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François Chidaine

François Chidaine: Portes Ouvertes: Saturday 13th to Monday 15th May from 10.00-19.00 with a break for lunch between 12.00-14.00.

Cave Insolite
30 Quai Albert Baillet
37270 Montlouis-sur-Loire
Tel: 02.47.45.19.14

Lights of Tours in the distance

Two photos of a snow covered Clos du Bourg, Domaine Huet, Vouvray. Interesting to see that much or all of the Clos' vines appear to have been pruned already. Photos courtesy of Johan le Calonnec, Domaine Huet.

Bunch of Chenin in the Clos du Bourg – combination of noble rot and passerillage: 2.10.09

The official ban des vendanges was on 28th September, although some of the most serious producers waited until the end of the week to start picking. On the way back from picking friends up at Tours Airport today we made a quick diversion into Vouvray to have a look at the vines and also drop into see Didier Champalou and then Noël Pinguet (Domaine Huet).

First day of the harvest@the Champalous: picking machine for the pétillant

Didier Champalou: "We started today and have been picking for the pétillant naturel. The grapes have been coming in at between 12.5%-13% potential with 6.2-6.5g acidity. After fermentation this will come down to 5.5g. I'm happy with the balance. It has been very dry, which blocked the maturation for a while. Until a week ago the flavours were still un peu herbace (a little grassy) but they are fine now. Yields are between 45-50hl/ha."

Noël Pinguet backing in a load of 2009 grapes to the press area@Domaine Huet

Noël Pinguet: "We started on Thursday and in the reverse of normal are picking only the green green for our pétillants and secs as the alcoholic degrees are becoming too high. The grapes are coming in around 12.7% alc with 5.5 acidity. We are very short of stock of pétillants so it was essential that we first concentrated on picking the green grapes and leaving those starting to develop noble rot until later. So far we have 200hls of juice for the pétillants and will harvest another 100hl on Monday. It will be a big harvest this year, which will fill up our vats, although I'm not pressing the grapes hard."

Domaine Huet: the new tasting area – the offices are above (CRM - all pics save Pauillac)

While I was visiting Laurent Bonneau in Chançay (report to appear shortly I hope), CRM dropped in to Domaine Huet's cellars on the Rue de la Croix Buisée to buy a birthday present for a friend about to be 60. She selected a 1970 Clos du Bourg Moelleux. Normally the cellars need a day to prepare the bottle – clean it up, as the cellars are humid, and then label it. As we were away to Bordeaux the next day Johan kindly offered to get the bottle ready immediately.

The cache of 1947 Haut-Lieu – sadly not that one!

1970 Le Clos du Bourg Moelleux

Johan preparing the label

Affixing the label

1970 Clos du Bourg Moelleux

All boxed up

1970 Le Clos du Bourg in Pauillac with the birthday boy

See report here of the pre-60th birthday dinner in Pauillac cooked by Hugo Naon, talented chef about to open a restaurant in Bordeaux.

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Report on the Huet tasting in London (16th September 2009) featuring 2008 and a vertical of demi-sec back to 1949 now complete here.

Noël Pinguet considering the 1949 Le Haut-Lieu, Vouvray demi-sec, Domaine Huet

There are days when wine writing has its compensations. Today was one of them with the presentation by Noël at Quo Vadis restaurant in London's Soho of the 2008 vintage at Domaine Huet allied to a tasting of demi-secs running from 2005 back to 1949.

Domaine Huet - 2008s
(figures: alcohol; residual sugar – grams per litre; acidity – grams per litre)

1. 2008 Vouvray, le Haut Lieu sec 75cl
13.24%; 15.4g; 6.47g
We kick off with a typical 2008 – lemony, crisp, precise with apple and pear flavours and vibrant acidity.

2. 2008 Vouvray, le Clos du Bourg sec 75cl
13.45%; 13.5g; 6.05g
But the Clos du Bourg is a step up – more delicate aromas but more depth and weight on the palate – marvellously vibrant and precise, mineral, austere finish. Demonstrates that at its best demi-sec is a real forte of Vouvray.

3. 2008 Vouvray, Le Mont demi-sec 75cl
13.43%; 27.1g; 6.03g
Crisp apple – young Cox's Orange crossed with crunchy Worcester Permain straight off the tree – with lovely mineral character and a touch of salinity. Beautiful precision and tension here with real potential to age.

4. 2008 Vouvray, le Haut Lieu demi-sec 75cl
13.24%; 29.8g; 6.06g
Altogether less defined and less thrilling than the 2008 Le Mont, some softer sweet apple.

5. 2008 Vouvray, Le Haut Lieu moelleux 75cl
12.3%; 53,1g; 6.25g;
Lightly sweet, citric, peach, passion fruit and a hint of apricot. Attractive aperitif style which would also go well with a number of dishes in a cream sauce – fish, chicken and pork.

2008 Le Mont moelleux 1ère trie

6. 2008 Vouvray, Le Mont moelleux 1ère Trie 75cl
12.42%; 62.7g; 6.14g
Like the Le Mont demi-sec, this is a considerable step up with a wonderfully thrilling balance of sweetness and zinging, vibrant acidity. Precise and very long. In forty or fifty years times should be sensational unlike this blogger!

7. 2008 Vouvray, Le Clos du Bourg moelleux 1ère Trie 75cl
11.87%; 64.8g: 4.61g
Although the analysis shows that the sugar levels of these two 1er tris are very similar, the Clos du Bourg appears sweeter due to the lower level of acidity – due to this cuvée very unusually undergoing 80% malo before the start of the alcoholic fermentation. There a hint of mousseron (a wild mushroom) on the nose, there depth of fruit and richness and, although good, it doesn't have the same thrilling balance and perfection of Le Mont.

See report here on tasting of 2008s pre-bottling at the domaine in January 2009.

Domaine Huet - a celebration of demi-secs through the years

8. 2005 Vouvray, le Mont demi-sec 75cl
13.11%; 21.4g; 4.3g
Although the colour is still a youthful very light gold, the nose and palate are starting to evolve – touch of mousseron. Depth of flavour but certainly austere and quite tight and closed in the finish at present.

9. 2002 Vouvray, Le Mont demi-sec 75cl
12.83%; 27.5g; 6.35g
Hints of peach and apple on the nose but currently not very expressive, some weight and quite austere in the long finish. Has the balance that is typical of this vintage.

10. 2000 Vouvray, Le Mont demi-sec 75cl
12.5%; 18g; 5.4g
Light gold – evolution notes: mousseron, cep, touch of damp tuffeau, quite austere finish – good length.

1988 Le Mont demi-sec

11. 1988 Vouvray, Le Mont demi-sec 75cl
13.4%; 14.8g; 5.4g
1988 is an often overlooked vintage – overshadowed by 1989 and 1990 – but there were some classic whites made helped by a fine autumn. This was one of my favourites in the vertical. Light gold, honeyed aromas, precise, tense minerality with a long finish.

1971 Le Haut-Lieu demi-sec

12. 1971 Vouvray, le Haut Lieu demi-sec 75cl
12.3%; 19.4g; 6.08g
Light gold, some evolution – concentrated honey tones, beeswax, attractive weight, some mousseron-cep character, precision, long mineral finish. Plenty of life and showing no sign of fading.

1962 Le Haut Lieu demi-sec: the star of the show

13. 1962 Vouvray, le Haut Lieu demi-sec 75cl
13.02%; 26.04g; 6.45g
What a fantastic wine! There are people who doubt the potential greatness of Chenin Blanc. This sublime 1962 demonstrates that Chenin is capable of producing some of the world's greatest wines. Mid-vibrant gold with lovely mouthfilling texture, sweeter than the 1971 and 1988. Lovely balance and length with a final touch of sweetness counterpointing the acidity in the very long finish. Truly memorable!

14. 1957 Vouvray, le Clos du Bourg demi-sec 75cl
figs n/a
A return to a more austere style: mid-gold, eveolution, mousseron, some weight but more mineral less flattering than the 1962. Again long finish.

1949 Le Haut Lieu demi-sec: slightly disappointing but an historic bottle all the same

15. 1949 Vouvray, Le Haut Lieu demi-sec 75cl
12.74%; 10.4g; 4.85g
I don't remember tasting a 1949 Chenin before, although I have tasted 1949 Cabernet d'Anjou from Domaine de Bablut, and have tasted 1947 and 1945 moelleux/doux from Huet before. Although fascinating to taste, this was a bit of a disappointment as the bottle wasn't entirely clean – cork or just the stage of its evolution. Difficult to say as at this age there can be such variation between bottles. Mid-burnished gold, mushroomy, quite austere, some oxidation but still has length.

It would be interesting to decant many of these wines and see how they evolved over two or three hours. Crucial not to serve too chilled.

12 June 2009 (follows on from Philippe Foreau – part one)

Philippe Foreau with a glass of 1989 Moelleux

There then followed one of those episodes of stupidity that it would be nice to learn from but I may well not. Philippe brought out another bottle to taste blind. He explained that he had served this vintage blind to a number of journalists, including Michel Bettane, and none had divined the vintage. “This wine has 155 g of rs,” said Philippe.

I noticed that the top of the cork before it was pulled was black with mould – jumping foolishly to the conclusion that it was quite old. Indeed so convinced was I that I really paid no proper attention to the wine that actually in the glass. Had I done so, I would have seen that the wine was pale golden with notes of barley sugar and citrus fruits – orange rind – as well as apricot. Certainly with none of the evolved aromas that characterised the 1996, so I should have concluded that it was a young wine from this century and, with 155 g rs, from a very good, hot vintage – 2003 or 2005. It would then have been reasonable to conclude that this was 2003 as the sugar levels in 2003 tend to be higher than in 2005. Furthermore as the wine was well balanced and not cloying, it would fit with Philippe’s prediction that this wine had surprised many for 2003 has been faulted for not having sufficient acidity.

Did I follow this logic? No, of course not, as I was still thinking of an older wine from a vintage without a high reputation. Eventually I suggested 1988 without a shred of evidence. Completely wrong – 2003 Clos Naudin Moelleux Réserve (37.80€).

It’s what’s in the glass stupid!

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Close up of the 1989 Réserve Moelleux

Our memorable tasting finished with the famous pair of vintages – 1989 and 1990 – the Moelleux Réserve from both years. First up the 1989 – still light to mid-gold at nearly 20 years of age. Showing some of the secondary aromas of Vouvray with bottle age along with white peach and apricot – lovely minerality and finesse. In contrast the 1990 is much deeper coloured – very typical of this vintage – and is richer with 220 g rs with concentrated barley sugar and pate de fruits flavours. Although it is impressive and a fine wine the 1990 does not have the remarkable finesse and balance that the 1989 has. Philippe also made Le Goutte d’Or in 1990, which we did not taste, it has 320 g of residual sugar.

The deeper coloured 1990 Réserve

It is fortunate that there is still une petite elite of producers keeping the flag flying as Vouvray is certain a classic expression of Chenin Blanc – arguably its classic expression. Amongst the elite I'd include, in addition naturally of Domaine du Clos Naudin and Domaine Huet, Champalou, Bernard Fouquet (Domaine des Aubuisières), Alexandre Monmousseau's Château Gaudrelle along with a few others as well as the elite Montlouis brigade of François Chidaine, now restoring Le Clos Baudouin, and Jacky Blot.

Entrance to the house and cellars of Le Clos Baudouin with the vineyard above

Philippe Foreau
Domaine du Clos Naudin
14 Rue de la Croix Buisée
37210 Vouvray
Tel: 02.47.52.71.46
Open Monday – Saturday: 9-12; 14-18