Claude Aupetitgendre with his Montlouis methode traditionnelle

Claude Aupetitgendre is a vigneron in Civray de Touraine (AC Touraine) in the hamlet of Thoré just off the road from Tours to Vierzon (D976). Thoré is actually closer to Bléré than it is to the centre of Civray. He has 8.5 hectares here and has long grassed over his vineyards and aims for low yields.

In 2007 he entered into partnership Jacques Gozard to produce Montlouis from two hectares of vines near to Château de la Bourdaisière. They put together an association of 58 wine lovers – many from Paris but also some from further afield, Norway for instance.

The wines of Domaine de Montory are vinified in Lussault where this Saturday (7th May) they are holding an open day at 11 Vallée Saint-Martin from 10h-18h. 

 Claude with his sparkling Montlouis, Touraine Cuvée les Lys (Cabernet, Côt and Gamay)

Cuvée les Lys

This is an impressive and ambitious Chinon from the 2007 vintage, which is generally light with the fruit rarely ripe enough to make a weighty and concentrated wine without extracting green tannins. This Château de Saint-Louand, which comes from Baudry-Dutour's small property in Saint-Louand – a western suburb of Chinon. Aged in oak it still has considerable oak spice; it is drinking well now but would probably benefit from another year to let the wood and the oak marry more completely.  

2010 Noble Joué, Rémi Cosson

We were so impressed with the Restaurant Agnès Sorel in Genillé (under new ownership – Nicolas et Estelle Petit – for just over a year) when we ate there in December that we went back with friends last night. We had an excellent and very enjoyable meal. The three course menu at 22€ is extremely good value.

We kicked off with a bottle of the 2010 Noble Joué (AC Touraine Noble Joué – a blend of three Pinots: Noir, Gris and Meunier) from Remi Cosson in Esvres-sur-Indre  – a delicate shade of pink, an attractive balance of ripe red fruits and refreshing acidity. Made a very good aperitif and went well with the smoked salmon and gravalax that most of us chose. CRM went for the aparagus soup, which was delicious.

Chapeau! beautifully presented aparagus soup   

Main course was a choice of sea bream or nine-hour cooked belly of pork – two of us chose the fish and two the belly. The belly was excellent and was well partnered by Yannick Amirault's medium weight 2008 La Mine, Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, which is drinking well now but can be happily kept for a few years more.

We finished with CRM choosing the crèpe wrapped around a baked apple, while I went for the gauffre (waffle) with blackberry purée and icecream – a fitting finale.