The confrontation: animated mobile phone conversation

Close up of two of the protagonists

Our regular readers (or reader!) will probably recall our fondness for Praia da Adraga and its excellent restaurant on the Portuguese Altantic coast close to Sintra. See here and here.

Last Sunday we headed across from Lisbon to Adraga, having taken the precaution to book a table for 2pm. Unlike France, Portugal understands the pleasure of having extended eating hours. Lunch, for example, can often be taken at noon or at 3pm.

Unfortunately 2pm on a sunny and very busy Sunday proved to be a mistake as the restaurant was still jammed packed with those who had arrived at 1pm. This meant that we didn't actually sit down to eat until after 3pm. Fortunately we weren't in a rush and shortly after we arrived a confrontation between the Portuguese Maritime Police and a couple of very obstinate women provided a great show for the best part of 55 minutes, which kept us thoroughly entertained.

Our view of the show started when two Portuguese Maritime police officers walked purposely on to the beach and stopped in front of two women lying on the beach sunbathing. As we were a good 100 metres away, we couldn't hear what was being said, so had to piece together what was going on from movements and gestures etc.

It was soon clear that the confrontation was over the women having chosen to pitch their towels and folding chair in the area where there are shelters for hire. They were close to one that hadn't been hired, so its cover and awning hadn't been erected. The policeman was clearly pointing out the parts of the beach where they could sunbathe. I assume that the women had already refused to pay for a shelter, so the Maritime Police had been called.

The beach and the shelters

The arguments raged on and on with the blonde woman having an animated conversation with someone her mobile phone. At one point the policewoman left the beach returning with a large folder. Perhaps the women were about to be arrested for towel trespass and hauled from the beach in manacles.

The solution – pay for a beach shelter!

Eventually the women, obviously with great reluctance, paid for a beach shelter and the police departed. Why the women thought it was worth losing nearly an hour of sunbathing time on the beach and all the hassle just because they weren't prepared to move their towels or, alternatively, pay for a beach shelter is beyond me.

Anyway once we were finally seated in the restaurant with its great views out to sea, a bottle of deliciously refreshing 2010 Vinho Verde Alvarinho was swiftly ordered and nearly as quickly consumed.

2010 Alvarinho Vinho Verde, Soalheiro

Camara Municipal de Sintra (Sintra Town Hall): above and below

Last Thursday we took the train up to Sintra from Rossio Station in Lisbon. Then strolled along from the station to the centre of the small town. 

Palácio Nacional de Sintra

Buildings in Sintra

Looking from the centre of town back towards the town hall

Then it was back to Sintra Station to get a taxi to take us to Praia Adrega. Curiously the taxis in the centre of the town are apparently only allowed to circulate in the town.

The beach at Praia Adraga was virtually deserted with the customary, creamy Atlantic rollers to watch. Once again the small stream that follows into the sea at Adraga had changed course over the beach during the winter. Either the stream or winter high tides (or a combination of the two) has destroyed the small wooden broadwalk that runs from the car park across the stream to the beach. 

Praia Adraga

We had time to sit for half an hour on the beach before heading for a latish lunch (2pm) at the Restaurant Praia Adraga. One of the good things about Portugal is the relatively flexible eating times. In many parts of France the chances of being able to sit down to lunch at 2pm are decidedly slim. Indeed it can be tricky from 1.30pm.   

Ameijoas à Bulhão Pato

We had a table by the window overlooking the ocean. Lunch as ever here was excellent – a dish of ameijoas à Bulhão Pato (clams cooked in olive oil with garlic, chilli and coriander) to share between the four of us. This was followed by simply grilled seabass and turbot – again shared. We drank a very good bottle of 2009 Alvarinho, Vinho Verde, Muros Antigos.

Sea bass (in foreground); turbot (behind)

Praia Adraga

I know they are not in the Loire but these are my two favourite restaurants in and near to Lisbon and to go to the two on consecutive days has been a really treat. After all Lisbon does begin with an L!



First to the restaurant at Praia da Adraga, which is on the Atlantic coast not far from Sintra and one of the most westerly points in Europe. Adraga is a small unspoilt cove, down from the village of Almocageme and the one restaurant does sensational grilled fish, as well as crab and clams. The clams are best done in the style – ameijoas à bulhão pato: a little like a moules marinières with garlic, coriander and a little chilli. Nothing is fancy here but everything is brilliantly and perfectly cooked.

Yesterday the restaurant was quiet and we were lucky to have a table by the window, which gives you a sensational view out over the sandy beach and the Atlantic Ocean – next stop the US of A. Ameijoas à bulhão pato to begin with followed by grilled sea bass for two with a fine bottle of 2007 Muros Antigos Alvarinho Vinho Verde. In the Loire the natural choice would be a good bottle of Muscadet but this is a most acceptable substitute. Difficult to see how life could get better.

View from our table in the restaurant@Praia Adraga

Then this evening off to O Galito in Carnide, now a suburb of Lisbon but which once must have been a quite village away from the bustle of Lisbon. Here you will find wonderful Alentejo cooking married to a sensational wine list. Dona Gertrudes remains in charge of the kitchen while her son is increasingly ceding the front of house to his energetic son. It's a small restaurant, so essential to book on Saturdays and probably very wise for the other nights of the week. It is also open at lunchtime but closed Sundays and for holidays.

2006 Pêra Manca

Tonight we enjoyed sopa de cação (shark soup) then migos de espargos c/ lombo porco alentejano grelhado (migos is a bit like a light bread dumpling and, in this case, mixed with asparagus). Also another delicate pork dish this time with rice and coriander. We started with a very fine bottle of 2006 Pêra-Manca white (Adega Cartuxa) from Évora in the Alentejo and made from Arinto and Antão Vaz. All in all – concentration, complexity and minerality. For the red we had another wine from the Alentejo – the 2006 'Moon-harvested' Herdade do Grous. Naturally deep coloured as 100% Alicante Bouchet this is a big, rich wine but a little lacking in complexity, although it did develop in the glass.

2006 Moon harvested (!) Grous

Easily reached by the Metro (Carnide) O Galito is highly recommended.

Restaurant Praia da Adraga: tel: 21 923 00 28

O Galito, Rua d Fonte 18 – D, Carnide, 1600 Lisboa. Tel: 21.711.10.88