Thierry Puzelat@Clos du Tue-Boeuf

On Thursday we had a full day of visits starting with the Puzelats@the Domaine du Tue-Boeuf. We were delighted that Thierry had time to taste with us for an hour and a half as today (Saturday) is his wedding day – a big event amongst the natural wine-makers of the Loire.

Thierry and Nigel Wilkinson (RSJ Restaurant)

Jean-Marie Puzelat

More to follow but now off for visits to Jacky Blot and François Chidaine in Montlouis.

Thierry Puzelat:post boxes

More photos from the sort out.

Cellar@Domaine de Tue Boeuf (Jean-Marie and Thierry Puzelat)


Tue-Boeuf: young buds – mid April 2009

Wisteria@Epeigné-les-Bois: mid April 2010

Le bio en forte croissance

Fin 2009 la surface revendiquée par les vignerons français en viticulture biologique (ou en conversion) atteignait 39 000 ha. Un chiffre qui a doublé en 4 ans, et qui a été multiplié par 8 en 14 ans. Le nombre d’exploitations engagées en bio a augmenté de 31 % en une année, pour 3024 exploitations recensées fin 2009. 

Lire la suite... 

The article doesn't mention the Loire, where organic viticulture has long been well represented. Apparently the biggest increases have been seen in Languedoc-Roussillon (12 661 ha, + 52 % compared to 2008), Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur (8 981 ha, + 35 %) and Aquitaine (5 464 ha, + 45 %).

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Thierry Puzelat

The Guardian has a video of the 2010 harvest at Domaine du Tué-Boeuf with Thierry Puzelat, which also stars Henrietta Lovell in fetching red. She is modelling some of the latest bio-vêtements. It is a recent discovery that wearing bright colours and patterns can deter unwanted insects and birds from invading vineyards. Red is particularly effective during the harvest in deterring ravenous birds from feasting on the ripe grapes.

 

Floral vineyard@Clos Roche Blanche

 Jacky Preys: late September 2009

Excellent post here on Cory Cartwright's Saignée blog about the diversity of wine and the threats to this diversity by large scale, global branding. It has already been widely picked up most notably probably on Eric Asimov's The Pour. Towards the end of the post Cory expresses some cautious optimism that people are now looking for variety and he cites the work of producers like the Puzelat brothers, Les Foucault, Jacky Preys, François Cazin etc. There are other that can be added such as Pascal Potaire with Menu Pineau and Eric Chevalier following on from Jacky Preys with his Fie Gris.    

The Courtois family are one of the cult vignerons that I really ought to have visited by now. Something I will have to put right soon. My failure to visit or know more about their wines is partly due to never having had happy experiences with Claude Courtois' wines on the few occasions that I have tasted them. I remember one red (although not its name – though it may well have been Racines – a red) opened in Epeigné a few years ago that was undrinable and was poured down the sink. About three or four years ago Claude was at the Renaissance tasting in Angers but I was no more impressed.

However, a number of years ago Randall Grahm (Bonny Doon) was full of enthusiasm for this wonderful Loire producer he had met at a wine fair in Brussels. It was Claude Courtois and, although Randall has a highly developed sense of humour, I think on this occassion he was serious.

So to Originel (vin de table français) from the 2004 vintage* made with 100% Menu Pineau by Claude's son, Julien. It has to said that Originel is also quite challenging, particular in respect to its colour and nose. The colour is quite a deep gold – certainly pretty deeply hued for a wine of this age, although it is vinified in oak, while the nose has quite marked oxidative notes. I imagine that there is little or no sulphur used here. In contrast the palate is much fresher still with some oxidative notes which here add complexity to the minerality and clean acidity. We drunk this over two nights as an apero and I fancy that the second night the colour was deeper and the oxidative notes a little more marked.

It is good to see producers working with Loire varieties like Menu Pineau (also called Arbois) that used to be more widely grown than they are now. Pascal Potaire in the Cher Valley is another producer making Menu Pineau – on this evidence I prefer Pascal's. Thierry Puzelat is another producer working with Menu Pineau. It remains a permitted variety in Vouvray (almost a slightly guilty secret!), Cheverny and Valançay. Having a range of varieties that have a local history is part of France's patrimony and it would be good to see France's wine authorities wanting to cherish and encourage this diversity even though hectares of just Sauvignon Blanc would be easier to sell.

Pascal Potaire (not Menu Pineau in the glass!)

* Douglas Wregg (Les Caves de Pyrène) told me they would be sending the 2004 vintage. However, there is an L6 marked at the bottom of the label, so it may actually be 2006. As a vin de table français there can be no mention of the vintage on the label. I'll have to check with Douglas.

Vincent Ricard in his new tasting room: April 2009

Two good postings on the McDuff Food & Wine Trail blog:

Vincent Ricard

Label designs in Vincent's new tasting room

Thierry Puzelat

Have just discovered The Wine Digger blog that has been up since March and is run by Guilhaume of San Francisco. The Loire features quite frequently and recent postings included videos of Mark Angeli and Thierry Puzelat.

Domaine Huet, Vouvray
Vendredi 8, Samedi 9, Dimanche 10 mai de 10h à 19h
(Friday 8th, Saturday 9th and Sunday 10th: 10am- 7pm

Opportunity to taste the 2008 vintage and also presumably admired the new tasting room and offices that were under construction when I was there in early January 2009. There will also be three wines from the 2002 vintage, which has a number of similarities with 2008.

Vous aurez également l’occasion de vous projeter dans l’avenir des 2008, puisque sur ces deux week-ends uniquement, nous vous proposerons 3 cuvées exceptionnelles d’un millésime similaire en de nombreux points: le Clos du Bourg Première Trie 2002, le Mont Première Trie 2002 et la Cuvée Constance 2002.

Domaine Huet. 11 Rue de la Croix Buisée 37210 Vouvray Tel: 02.47.52.78.87 Site: www.huet-echansonne.com

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Le maître du chai chez les Puzelats

Thierry and Jean-Marie Puzelat (Domaine du Tue-Boeuf) in Les Montils have a Portes Ouvertes on 9th and 10th May. Other producers who will be present include René Mosse (Anjou), Pierre Breton (Bourgueil, Chinon and Vouvray) and Pascal Potaire (Touraine).

Le Clos du Tue Boeuf, 6 rte Seur, 41120 Les Montils
Tel: 02 54 44 05 16

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9th-10th Mai 2009 (10.00-18.00): Domaine Joël Delaunay, 48 Rue de la Tesnière, 41110 Pouillé
Tel: 02.54.71.45.59
Email: contact@joeldelaunay.com
Site: www,joeldelaunay.com