22nd October 2009

2003 Le Clos du Pont, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine

The tasting complete we repaired upstairs for an excellent lunch:

Fine tarte feuilletée aux tomates de variétés anciennes, servie tiède

2008 Cuvée Confidentielle Côtes de Provence, Domaine Saint-André de Figuière 21.85€
The rosé was less successful than their Côtes de Provence tasted earlier.

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Araignée de mer dans ses sucs en gelée, crème de fenouil

2007 Reisling Grand Cru Schlossberg, Domaine Paul Blanck 17.65€ 2007 La Canopie, Jurançon sec, Domaine Cauhapé 22.50€

Served in martini glass this was probably the standout dish in a very good lunch. The mineral Riesling was certainly the best match with the dish as the fine Jurançon was just too rich for the dish.

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Noix de Saint-Jaxques lègerment blondies servies dans un consommé clair, pleurottes et borage

2008 L'Homme Mort Chablis Premier Cru, Domaine de l'Eglantière, Jean Durup & Fils 15.60€
2005 Haute Densité, Pouilly-Fumé, Château de Tracy 44€

Compared to the rather ungainly Chablis, the Haute Densité, showing the richness and concentration of a 2005, was the better but more expensive match but less mineral than the 101 Rangs tasted earlier.

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2006 Clos de l'Echo, Chinon, Couly-Dutheil

Friands de pied de porc croustillants, purée de pommes de terre

2007 Melinand, Chiroubles, Louis Tête 6.40€
2006 Trousseau Arbois, Domaine Rolet Père et Fils 9.50€
2006 Clos de l'Echo, Chinon, Couly-Dutheil 15€
The best match here was the very good Chiroubles shwing how delicious and food friendly a cru Beaujolais can be and excellent value at 6.40€. The pale coloured, spicy Trousseau also worked well. The powerful and still quite tannic Clos de l'Echo needs more time and was too dominant for the dish.

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2007 Grande Cuvée, Domaine de l'Hortus

Selle d'Agneau de Lozère rôtie en persillade, fricassée de cèps

2007 Grande cuvée, Pic Saint Loup, Coteaux du Languedoc, Domaine de l'Hortus 16.90€
2004 Grand Cru Classé, Saint-Emilion, Château Haut-Sarpe 25.50€
2007 Cuvée des Générations Gaston-Philippe, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Château de la Gardine 49.80€
Jean Orliac's beautifully balanced Grande Cuvée was both one of the stand out wines of the day and easily the best match with the lamb.

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Abbaye de Citeaux et comté

2007 Les Charmes Dessus 1er Cru Meursault Charmes, Domaine Antonin Guyon 43€
2003 Le Clos du Pont, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine, Guilbaud Frères 9.45€

Pascal's lovely rich, lemony Muscadet blew the Meursault off the park. It has the typical richness of 2003 but still has a balancing freshness in the finish. Aged for at least 10 months in old foudres (large wooden barrels) with no malo. Le Clos du Pont wines are very long-lived a number of years ago I remember trying on two different occasions the 1953 and 1955.

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Doubtless the whole occasion cost un bras et plusieurs jambes but the venue was great and the staff very friendly and attentive.

Unfortunately my Eurostar train for the return to London was old rolling stock so no electrical points and as my Mac battery is completement farcié I was obliged to snooze for a considerable part of the journey.

Report on tasting here and on my day trip to Paris..

22nd October 2009

Restaurant Laurent, Avenue Gabriel, Paris

In Act One of the tasting and lunch at Restaurant Laurent in Paris we tasted example sof the 2008 wines from each of the 16 members of Vignobles & Signatures – Le Club des Grands Domaines. All three Loire wines showed well:

2008 Soleil Nantais, Muscadet-de-Sèvre-et-Maine sur lie, Guilbaud Frères

"Not a good vintage," Pascal Guilbaud told me. Perhaps not, although I fancy Pascal's view may be coloured by 2008 being serious frosted affected as this 2008 is showing attractively. It has some palate weight and is very much in the style of 2008 – clean lemony and precise. Would be an excellent partner to a plateau fruits de mer or a simple grilled sole. At 6.06€ including TVA from the cellars this is very decent value.

2008 Les Chanteaux Chinon Blanc, Couly-Dutheil

There are now some 36-37 hectares of Chenin Blanc planted in the Chinon appellation with a stop on further planting, so Chinon Blanc is going to remain somewhat of a curiosity. Les Chanteaux has attractive peach and apricot fruit, texture and length with enough acidity to balance the 14% alcohol. Would be interesting to try this with a rich pork dish or pheasant cooked with apple and cream (à la normande). 10.50€ from the cellar.

2008 101 Rangs Pouilly-Fumé, Château de Tracy

Then a new wine from Château de Tracy – 101 Rangs from the silex (flint) vineyards by the Château itself. The vines are around 55 years old and the yield in 2008 was 35 hl/ha. Only some 3000 bottles a year will be made. This is the companion wine to Haute Densité, which is planted on limestone in a vineyard to the south east of the Bois Gibault on the road leading to Les Berthiers. In contrast the vines for Haute Densité are only seven years old, although the yield in 2008 was only 30 hl/ha during to hail damage.

2008 101 Rangs is an impressive début with grassy and grapefruit aromas and flavours , weight and underpinned by citric, mineral acidity. Can be enjoyable now but a further year or two in bottle may well add further complexity. 60€ a bottle – the most expensive wine in the tasting.

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Away from the Loire the following wines impressed:

2008 Pinot Gris Classique, Domaine Paul Blanck – 11.75€

2008 Grandé Cuvée, Domaine de L'Hortus, VDP Val Montferrand 16.90€
(60% Chardonnay, 25% Viognier)

2008 Cuvée Confidentielle, Côtes de Provence Blanc, Domaine Saint-André de Figuière, 21,85€

2008 Ballet d'Octobre, Jurançon Moelleux, Domaine Cauhapé 12.50€
Very attractive aperitif style or with rich patés/ blue cheese

2002 Grande Sendrée, ChampagneDrappier 52€

2008 Le Chatelin, Brouilly, Louis Tête 7.20€

2008 Clos du Village, Chambolle-Musigny, Domaine Antonin Guyon 31€

2008 Confidentielle, Lirac Rouge, Château Saint-Roch 14.20€
1/3 Grenache, 1/3 Mourvèdre, 1/3 Syrah