Domaine Gauby

I first met Gérard and Ghislaine Gauby (Domaine Gauby) in the early 1990s. Based  in Calce Gérard was already a significant figure in Roussillon wine, although his wines had brute power and strong tannins. Then they reflected their powerful and stocky maker. Since then there has been a remarkable transformation as the Gaubys have constantly refined their wines as well as their vineyard management. They moved over to biodynamics in 2000. Gérard is convinced that the way they work in the vineyard has had a great influence on their wines, especially encouraging the roots to go deeper and thus providing protection against the region’s frequent droughts. The latest on started in 2005. 

"Unlike the rest of France the concern here is not to reduce yields but to raise them," explained Gérard. "Over time we have managed to boost our yields from 12hl/ha to 20/25hl/ha." 

 
Even though they were frantically busy getting ready for the start of the vendange on Monday as well as bottling various wines, Gérard still spent nearly two hours with me tasting his 2009s  – mostly from barrel – and some of his 2008s. 

 Gérard Gauby

It was a remarkable tasting. I was very impressed by their delicacy, finesse, minerality and freshness despite the hot climate. Doubtless part of this is the contribution of Lionel Gauby, Gérard and Ghislaine's son, who is now in charge of the winemaking.

My favourites included: 

 

– the seductive 2009 Les Calcinaires, vin de pays des Côtes Catalanes, which is the entry level wine made from Maccabeu, Vermentino, Muscat and Chardonnay; 

– a powerful and concentrated barrel sample of 2009 Carignan planted in 1890 that forms the base of Gérard’s renowned La Muntada. A reminder of the potential of old Carignan;

– a series of four very varied 2009 Grenaches from different soils and vineyards includinga sample from 90 year-old vines that will be La Roque, one of Gérard’s four new single vineyard wines. They will be priced at 70€ a bottle the same as Muntada;

 – a 2009 barrel sample of Mourvèdre from vines aged at least 140 years old and planted before phylloxera with incredible intensity and power but at the same time showing finesse;

– 2008 Muntada – dense and concentrated but happily without la force de frappe with a very long finish and a touch saline at the end;

 

– 2008 La Roque  – very floral (rose in particular) and delicate but powerful with some resemblance to the silkiness of a fine Pinot Noir. A really a stunning wine.

At the end, a couple of 2008 whites – Vieilles Vignes and 2008 Coume Gineste. The Vieilles Vignes is 100% Maccabeu – known in Spain as Viura and widely despised. “It was visiting Murrieta and Tondonia in Rioja that showed me the potential of this most amazing white grape.” The VV has a vivacity and minerality you would normally associate with southern whites. Coume Gineste has richer fruit and greater complexity but needs more time in bottle. 

All in all a tasting of great precision and finesse.