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Showing posts with label natural wine. Show all posts
Jamie Goode
Interesting and controversial piece from Jamie Goode on his wine anorak blog which has provoked considerable discussion here:
'The coming wine war
On the one hand, we have the fine wine establishment, which is dominated by Bordeaux, but also includes the top Champagne houses, as well as a few others such as the super-Tuscans. This is wine as a luxury good or an investment vehicle. It’s where the money is.
On the other hand, we have the emerging terroiriste/natural wine movement. This is somewhat counterculture, and its development as a category threatens the status quo of fine wine.
As the message of authentic wine with a sense of place – made by people driven by passion rather than profit – gains traction, it is causing a degree of discomfort in the fine wine establishment.'
Jean-Christophe Garnier: Vin mousseux de Qualité
Interesting and well balanced but agnostic look by Tim Atkin MW at the 'natural' wine phenomenon. Originally published in Off Licence News, Tim has posted it on his site.
Like Tim I'm agnostic or questioning, perhaps more accurate, with regards to 'natural' wines. There are certainly some wonderfully expressive wines that are described as 'natural', equally there are some real horrors – see above the sparkling wine from Jean-Christophe Garnier in Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay (original post here). Also some reflections on the 'ayatollahs' of the movement.
Le bio en forte croissance
Fin 2009 la surface revendiquée par les vignerons français en viticulture biologique (ou en conversion) atteignait 39 000 ha. Un chiffre qui a doublé en 4 ans, et qui a été multiplié par 8 en 14 ans. Le nombre d’exploitations engagées en bio a augmenté de 31 % en une année, pour 3024 exploitations recensées fin 2009.
The article doesn't mention the Loire, where organic viticulture has long been well represented. Apparently the biggest increases have been seen in Languedoc-Roussillon (12 661 ha, + 52 % compared to 2008), Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur (8 981 ha, + 35 %) and Aquitaine (5 464 ha, + 45 %).
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Thierry Puzelat
The Guardian has a video of the 2010 harvest at Domaine du Tué-Boeuf with Thierry Puzelat, which also stars Henrietta Lovell in fetching red. She is modelling some of the latest bio-vêtements. It is a recent discovery that wearing bright colours and patterns can deter unwanted insects and birds from invading vineyards. Red is particularly effective during the harvest in deterring ravenous birds from feasting on the ripe grapes.
Floral vineyard@Clos Roche Blanche
Fiona Beckett with Jacky Blot in Montlouis early October 2010
Fiona Beckett, who is the Guardian's new wine writer, has just launched a new blog called Wine Naturally.
Her first post starts thus:
'Why drink natural wine?
Or, more to the point - why devote a whole blog to it? It’s a long story. My husband got into natural wine a couple of years ago and I have to say I was rather sniffy about it. I thought most of the reds I tasted were unappealingly rustic and a lot of the whites tasted of cider.'
This is a very welcome new blog which hopefully will provide a forum to discuss the issues raised by and surrounding natural wines.
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In contrast a link to an entirely pointless new video from James Suckling. He seems to be determined to prove that he's a complete twat.
20 February 2009
Jean-Christophe Garnier's 'vin mousseux de qualité'To be fair the wine's colour was darkened by the flash and has been tweaked by Photoshop, although the actual colour was slightly lighter but the wine was just as muddy.
During dinner with the Cabernet Franc Ambassadors we tried a few other wines as O'Bistro has an interesting and eclectic list. The last 'wine' was the most memorable for all the wrong reasons. From Jean-Christophe Garnier, and apparently made from 100% Grolleau, this is a textbook example of the type of wine that gives 'natural wines' a bad name. Described as a vin mousseux de qualité (quality sparkling wine), it was light brown in colour and distinctly cloudy. Indeed far more reminiscent of rough farmyard scrumpy than a sparkling wine.
As it is virtually undrinkable I can only assume that this is a sophisticated joke by Monsieur Garnier of Saint-Lamber-du-Lattay – otherwise how could you put such a faulty and poor wine on the market? Equally I can only assume that this is the reason that it is probably stocked in 'cutting edge' wine bars. The alarming thing is that I'm pretty sure that this is not the worst wine that I have tasted from Jean-Christophe Garnier as he exhibits every year at the Renaissance des Appellations. I'm not against 'pushing the envelope', exploring the limits, but you have to be able to recognise when something is a miserable failure.
Several around the table questioned how this could be possibly described as 'mousseux de qualité', even 'vin' and Jean-Christophe calling himself a 'vigneron' raised eyebrows.
Before we were served the excerable mousseux we were served a couple of reds blind. The first was considerably lighter in colour than the Cabernet Francs we had been enjoying. I thought it was from the Loire and opted for a Pinot Noir from the Central Vineyards as did Gérard Vallée. Perhaps I should have been more courageous and plumped for a Sancerre, which, in fact, it was – 2006 Terre de Maimbray from Pascal and Nicolas Reverdy. The second was similar in colour but a little lighter in body. I surprised myself by guessing that it was a blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir. Actually it was 2007 Les Andilles, Cherveny from Hervé Villemade – 80% Pinot Noir 20% Gamay. Pleasant enough but not memorable – still it was 2007. Jérome felt that the finish was bitter.
As it is virtually undrinkable I can only assume that this is a sophisticated joke by Monsieur Garnier of Saint-Lamber-du-Lattay – otherwise how could you put such a faulty and poor wine on the market? Equally I can only assume that this is the reason that it is probably stocked in 'cutting edge' wine bars. The alarming thing is that I'm pretty sure that this is not the worst wine that I have tasted from Jean-Christophe Garnier as he exhibits every year at the Renaissance des Appellations. I'm not against 'pushing the envelope', exploring the limits, but you have to be able to recognise when something is a miserable failure.
Several around the table questioned how this could be possibly described as 'mousseux de qualité', even 'vin' and Jean-Christophe calling himself a 'vigneron' raised eyebrows.
Before we were served the excerable mousseux we were served a couple of reds blind. The first was considerably lighter in colour than the Cabernet Francs we had been enjoying. I thought it was from the Loire and opted for a Pinot Noir from the Central Vineyards as did Gérard Vallée. Perhaps I should have been more courageous and plumped for a Sancerre, which, in fact, it was – 2006 Terre de Maimbray from Pascal and Nicolas Reverdy. The second was similar in colour but a little lighter in body. I surprised myself by guessing that it was a blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir. Actually it was 2007 Les Andilles, Cherveny from Hervé Villemade – 80% Pinot Noir 20% Gamay. Pleasant enough but not memorable – still it was 2007. Jérome felt that the finish was bitter.
