Quarts de Chaume: cryoextraction a necessity for some producers?


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Really suitable for Quarts de Chaume! (above and below)





CRM and I took a stroll in the Quarts de Chaume and Chaume this afternoon to look again at the difference between the two appellations and to see how the grapes were coming along; although it will obviously be some time before picking starts here.

In much of the Quarts de Chaume bunches are well spaced out, a low yield as one would expect and the grapes have turned golden with a few early signs of noble rot. One parcel we saw was dramatically  different - a terraced vineyard in the lower south west part of the Quarts de Chaume.It had a very high, luxuriant foliage and a staggering number of large bunches of very green grapes on each vine - up to 18  bunches on some vines!

Difficult to see how grapes on these vines could ever ripen sufficiently to make sweet wine of the standard associated with Quarts de Chaume without the help of a concentrator. Assuming that these vines are not used for Anjou Blanc (bag-in-box) or vin de pays, the need for the owner of these vines to use cryoextraction  to make Quarts de Chaume becomes crystal and shockingly clear. Truly a machine to turn a sow's ear into a silk purse!

If cryoextraction turns such unpromising material into sweet wine one can well understand why Jean Baumard believes la cryosélection `m'apparaît être une des découvertes oenologiques majeures de la fin du XXème siècle`.  

In such overcrowded conditions it is hardly surprising that the wrong type of rot (grey) is likely to develop.

 It is instructive to see how different the vines, foliage and grapes are in much of the rest of the Quarts de Chaume.

Better ventilated, much lower yield and smaller bunches

Noble rot developing in a parcel of Bellerive's vines

Looking at the vines in the Quarts de Chaume today only reinforces my belief that cryoextraction should have no place in the Quarts de Chaume. It should be an appellation for naturally sweet wines not for wines born in a concentrator.



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