Early morning centre of San Gimignano and the moon
Today we enjoyed a magnificent drive from San Jimignano to the Ligurian sea through sunny Tuscan country made even more interesting by some thin shrouds of mist and white smoke rising vertically towards the sky. San Gimignano was particularly beautiful in the clear early morning light.
Our first visit was to Grattamarco, which was apparently the third of the new wave of wineries to be established in the Bolgheri region. It was founded in 1985 by Giorgio Meletti Cavallari who sold the business in 2007 and is now involved in a winery on Elba.
Unfortunately the recent wines that we tasted were not impressive, particularly bearing in mind the high prices charged. The 2008 Vermentino, 50% vinified in stainless steel was priced at 19€ and the reds went up to 45€. My preferred red was the 2008 Bolgheri – 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 20% Sangiovese – an easy drinking red but not at 15-16€ when it is really worth no more than 7€. The top wine, Grattamarco (70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20-25% Merlot depending on the vintage with the rest made up by Sangiovese) costs a remarkable 45€!
Lunch@l'Ristorante l'Orizzonte
We had a simple but excellent lunch at L’Orrizonte where a number of small producers in Bolgheri presented their wines and in one case, Fornacelle, lovely new pressed olive oil. Indeed visiting Tuscany in late November I’m reminded how delicious newly pressed olive oil can be – needing only tasty fresh or toasted bread for a real treat. Unfortunately as far as I know it is difficult to get freshly pressed olive oil in the UK.
(more to add)
Ristorante l'Orizzonte Osteria toscana tra Bolgheri e Castagneto Carducci
info@ristorantelorizzonte.it
Rubbia al Colle
Our last visit of the day was to one of the new wine cathedrals – Rubbia al Colle, on the outskirts of Suvereto.
This is another ambitious investment in the Val di Cornia and from the mound that covers the underground winery you can see Petra, another in the ambitious winery genre. In contrast to the Petra winery, which can be seen for many miles, Rubbia is well hidden. A hill was removed, the winery built and then covered with a metre of earth, so it is only apparent is you are close to it.
Lunch@l'Ristorante l'Orizzonte
We had a simple but excellent lunch at L’Orrizonte where a number of small producers in Bolgheri presented their wines and in one case, Fornacelle, lovely new pressed olive oil. Indeed visiting Tuscany in late November I’m reminded how delicious newly pressed olive oil can be – needing only tasty fresh or toasted bread for a real treat. Unfortunately as far as I know it is difficult to get freshly pressed olive oil in the UK.
(more to add)
The group of producers with the owner of the restaurant (l'Orizzonte)
Ristorante l'Orizzonte Osteria toscana tra Bolgheri e Castagneto Carducci
località Crocino - collina di Segalari - 57022 Castagneto Carducci (Livorno) - Toscana - Italia
tel. 0565 763796info@ristorantelorizzonte.it
Rubbia al Colle
Our last visit of the day was to one of the new wine cathedrals – Rubbia al Colle, on the outskirts of Suvereto.
This is another ambitious investment in the Val di Cornia and from the mound that covers the underground winery you can see Petra, another in the ambitious winery genre. In contrast to the Petra winery, which can be seen for many miles, Rubbia is well hidden. A hill was removed, the winery built and then covered with a metre of earth, so it is only apparent is you are close to it.
Rubbia is an investment by a cotton magnate from Milan - an interesting diversification that began in 1999 with the setting up of Archipelago Muratori. There now four estates:Villa Crespia, Francicorta in Lombardy, Oppida Aminea in Sannio Beneventano in Campania, Giardini Arimei in Isola d'Ischia as well as Rubbia.
The winery alone cost some 7 million euros before it was equipped and then there is the planting of some 100 hectares of vines. I guess not much change, if any, out of some 25 million euros. I find it difficult not to be cynical when faced with a modern day wine cathedral whether it is Rubbia or Petra here in the Val di Cornia, new palatial bodegas in Rioja or any that worship the god of wine.
The winery alone cost some 7 million euros before it was equipped and then there is the planting of some 100 hectares of vines. I guess not much change, if any, out of some 25 million euros. I find it difficult not to be cynical when faced with a modern day wine cathedral whether it is Rubbia or Petra here in the Val di Cornia, new palatial bodegas in Rioja or any that worship the god of wine.
At the entrance to the Rubbia winery there are two mats – one outside and one inside – to wipe your feet. This is a spotless showpiece and there is an ecclesiastical feel as you enter the vast barrel and fermentation area. Organised religion in Western Europe may be in decline but wine worship grows ever stronger.
Given the current economic outlook and the world glut of wine it will surely be difficult for Rubbia to break even let alone start to repay the original investment.
Given the current economic outlook and the world glut of wine it will surely be difficult for Rubbia to break even let alone start to repay the original investment.
Terracotta barrel at Rubbia al Colle (above and below)
Front of terracotta barrel
The sign for Archipelago Muratori
The entrance to the winery church
This new cathedral is already attracting wine pilgrims from over Europe....
(to be continued)
