Francesco Llantonio
Yesterday it was off to try the Puglian wines from Torrevento, a 400 hectare estate in Corato, and to have lunch at the recently opened Degò, an Italian restaurant at 4 Great Portland Street, London W1. Torrevento was founded in 1948 by Francesco and Domenico Llantonio. The esate was then developed by Gaetano Llantonio but has been greatly expanded since his son, Francesco, became involved in 1989.
Torrevento has vineyards spread across Puglia and makes a big range of wines. We were shown nine yesterday – all well made. As so often my favourites were amongst the entry level of the range. These showed the most Puglian character, whereas the more famous such as Vigna Pedale, were more international and could have come from other countries such as Chile.
My favourite wines were the 2009 Pezzaplana, DOC Castel del Monte Biano. Made from 70% Bombino Bianco and 30% Pampanuto, this has an attractive balance of ripe fruit and acidity. I understand that the Italian wine authorities are considering changing the name of Bombino Bianco to Bambino Bianco in 'honour' of their Prime Minister.
My favourite red was the 2008 Matervitae Negroamaro Puglia Rosso IGT, which was less opulent than some of the Torrevento reds served but had greater complexity, structure and interest. This seemed to be many people's favourite red and very good value at around £8.
We had one spectacular dish at Degò: a trio of ravioli with the centre one being filled with a reduction of Troia (red wine) that spread across the plate when it was cut open.
We had one spectacular dish at Degò: a trio of ravioli with the centre one being filled with a reduction of Troia (red wine) that spread across the plate when it was cut open.
